找尋城市記憶來一次重慶的“老街小巷游”

□ 文/本刊記者 楊艷 圖/方麗

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找尋城市記憶來一次重慶的“老街小巷游”

□ 文/本刊記者 楊艷 圖/方麗

要說漫步城市，北京有胡同、上海有里弄、廣州有騎樓街，重慶有無數條百年歷史老街，長長短短、或熱鬧或僻靜，大街小巷詮釋著山城的個性和特質。它們就像血管一樣，延伸到城市各個角落，滋養(yǎng)著這座城市。

我們本次步行以七星崗為起點，沿著領事巷、山城巷、鼓樓巷，經過抗建堂、金剛塔、打槍壩、仁愛堂醫(yī)院，有吊腳樓、灰磚瓦房，這些老建筑隱藏其間，與居民和諧共處。經過多年的城市改造，老巷也有了新的現代氣息，匯聚了重慶市井生活的縮影，一面繁華喧囂，一面靜謐悠遠，一道道坡坡坎坎勾勒出重慶人多元化的生活空間，時尚重慶與市井重慶相互融合，相得益彰。

這些深深融入重慶人生活中的小巷和老建筑，往往都有著深厚的歷史沉淀，不知吸引著多少老重慶人，讓他們在這里回溯著自己年輕時的記憶。

抗建堂 中國話劇圣殿

從七星崗輕軌站出發(fā)，第一個要看的老建筑就是抗建堂。位于觀音巖車站旁，一棟普通的灰白色建筑經歷數十年風雨，稍不留神就從身邊擦身而過。建筑是1940年郭沫若決定修建的，是抗戰(zhàn)時期演出話劇的主要場所之一。中國話劇史上的諸多著名的經典劇目，如《清宮外史》《芳草天涯》《棠棣之花》《虎符》《風雪夜歸人》《重慶屋檐下》《屈原》《蛻變》等都是在抗建堂成功演出。

抗戰(zhàn)時期，重慶成為大后方戲劇運動的中心，當年一大批知名的作家、導演、名演員云集重慶，話劇運動在重慶形成了空前的高潮。話劇發(fā)展了，但可供演出的劇場卻很奇缺。當年郭沫若兼任中國電影制片廠所屬的中國萬歲劇團團長后，針對當時只有國泰大戲院可演話劇的情況，決定新建一所話劇劇場，以解決當時重慶戲劇界名家薈萃，而劇場奇缺的困難。中國電影制片廠第二攝影棚地處中山一路馬路邊，市聲嘈雜，不利于拍攝電影，于是就把該處建為劇場，由名導演史東山的夫人華旦妮具體負責改建，用“抗戰(zhàn)建國”口號而取名“抗建堂”。

如今的抗建堂常駐的劇團是重慶市話劇團和重慶兒童藝術劇團。從門口的招貼海報來看，這里時常上演各種話劇，數十年過去了，這里仍舊是藝術家們表演的地方，它依舊煥發(fā)著光彩。

菩提金剛塔 城市的守護者

往背街小巷走，在純陽洞附近就能看到一座垂云式花輪、三級圓形寶頂的寶塔式建筑。塔座用青石板鋪砌，周圍有鐵柵欄，一位和善的大爺常年在此看管。作為我市直轄后首批市級文物保護單位之一，一直因其獨特的建筑形式、集漢藏和中西于一體的文化風格及神秘的藏寶傳說備受世人關注。盡管被高樓和大樹包圍，菩提金剛塔卻依然搶眼，塔身的石刻經文依舊清晰。近年一部暢銷網絡小說《失蹤的上清寺》中介紹塔中藏寶，引來不少人前往尋寶。

上世紀20年代末，原國民政府重慶第一任市長潘文華為擴建市區(qū)，決定開辟一條通遠門以外（七星崗—上清寺）的汽車路。為了消除流言，潘文華決定根據佛經上的說法，建造一座“使死者超度、生者永得安寧、消災避難”的金剛塔。

據了解，金剛塔修建歷時兩年，耗資4萬銀元，從奠基到落成，均由西藏喇嘛指導，并由佛學家張心若為金剛塔撰寫了碑文。1930年金剛塔建成后，洛那活佛還率數十名喇嘛來此誦經祈禱，場面十分壯觀。據記載，當時金剛塔香火興旺，就這樣一直默默地守護著這里。

打槍壩水塔 重慶第一座大型自來水廠

沿著石板路向下走，就已走在山城步道上了。路邊有抱孩子遛彎的大媽、打麻將下象棋的大爺、打招呼寒暄的中年婦女……他們幾乎都是居住在此的老居民。路過赫赫有名的純陽酒家分道，往鼓樓巷走，再爬一段樓梯就到達一個平壩，建有古香古色的風雨亭，這就是傳說中的打槍壩了?？上Ш茈y近觀打槍壩水塔，只能遠觀，它建在水廠內，被圍墻包圍住，外來人難以進入。這個建成于1932年的打槍壩水廠 ，是我市第一座大型自來水廠 ，如今已停用。打槍壩水塔是由著名專家稅西恒主持修建。水塔邊有一座碑，寫著“稅西恒之墓”，就是為了紀念這位總工程師。

在長江大橋北橋頭，遠眺就能看到這座歐式的高聳水塔。當年水廠的沉淀池、原水管部分仍在使用，為解放碑、較場口、七星崗、兩路口等地數十萬居民供水。當年就因為這里地勢開闊，且在重慶老城渝中半島最高處，這樣能依靠自然高差向城區(qū)供水，故水廠選址于此，取水口選在大溪溝嘉陵江邊。清代在此設有駐軍炮臺，壩子寬闊，官兵常在此演練射擊，才取名“打槍壩”。

領事巷 此巷已無領事館

沿著七星崗通遠門內的老城墻邊閑走，便到了領事巷。乍聽名字，把“領事館”與“領事巷”混為一談的人不在少數。其實這條小巷與現在的領事館已沒了關系。當年西方國家在重慶設立了第一個領事館，1896年法國和美國也在重慶設立領事館。當時的巴縣衙門決定在通遠門設立領事館區(qū)，原本道路狹仄的小街巷便得名“領事巷”。

早在1876年，清政府與英國簽訂《中英煙臺條約》。按照條約，英國可以派人至四川的重慶“駐寓”，“查看川省英商事宜”。1882年，英領事賀西到達重慶，賀西成為重慶近代對外關系史上的第一位外國使節(jié)。

一百多年過去了，領事巷這個地名至今存在，而且名聲很響。只不過空有其名，領事巷早已沒有領事館的影子了。

法國仁愛堂 百年教堂隱鬧市街巷

沿著領事巷一直往下走，經過四川省重慶市中醫(yī)學校門診部舊址，旁邊有一門洞，門前墊有幾塊方石塊，想必經常有人通行，探身進入，視野頓時豁然開闊。一棟圓形羅馬柱與拱形窗門組合而成的西式建筑佇立在綠樹叢中，弧形窗臺上的花瓶式欄桿和窗戶之間的羅馬柱裝飾相映成趣，仿佛一個風韻猶存的遲暮美人，靜候在雜草與灌木叢生之中，這便是法國仁愛堂。盡管歷經了百年的風雨滄桑，外墻上浮雕歷歷在目，它見證著重慶歷史上最早的開埠。

1900年，山城步道上半段規(guī)劃給各國領事館，下半段規(guī)劃給法國天主教會。1902年法國人在此修建了仁愛堂醫(yī)院，還有教堂、修道院和神父住房。1944年改名為陪都中醫(yī)院（即第一中醫(yī)院前身）。在日本轟炸重慶的時候，各領事館為了避免被飛機轟炸，在屋頂都刷上自己國家國旗，所以這一帶的房子才得以幸存。據記載，這一帶從前叫做“天燈街”，夜晚從遠處往這一帶看，百家燈火猶如星星點燈，地勢又高，仿若在天上，所以叫“天燈街”。

仁愛堂就建在這個制高點上，在此可居高臨下，長江、南岸和當年的珊瑚壩機場盡收眼底。整個建筑周邊空曠 ，不難想象，建筑在當年是有多氣派與壯觀。

厚廬 軍閥劉湘下屬官邸

從仁愛堂舊址一路往下走，就能看到一座呈石庫門建筑特色的小樓房，大門上寫著“厚廬”兩個大字。厚廬曾是四川軍閥劉湘下屬蘭文斌師長官邸?？箲?zhàn)時期，國民政府的統(tǒng)治中心移至重慶，大批政府要員、軍閥、買辦、地主來渝大肆修建公館，這只是其中之一。這些官邸建筑風格上，很多模仿外國近現代住宅建成?！昂駨]”已是渝中區(qū)房管所房產，在對開的木門上，掛著“山城巷46號”的門牌號。

山城步道 山水盡收眼底

從仁愛堂舊址到馬蹄街，是山城步道最精華的部分。鵝黃色的棧道欄桿凌空而建，沿著山壁蜿蜒而下。重慶是一個建在山上的城市，許多相鄰的地方落差高達幾十米，交通只能靠這種爬坡上坎的城市小道。

對于生活在這里的人們而言，住房狹窄，卻寸土皆金貴。老街更像是一座露天客廳。聊天在街上，洗衣在街上。門前一個洗手池，他們一邊切菜，一邊相互聊天。自家房門大大開著，爐上開水咕嚕嚕地冒氣?？傆新眯腥寺愤^，探頭張望，或是攝影留念，他們也習以為常。

一路上空氣中飄來陣陣火鍋香，就在厚廬不遠，有一家沒有店名的火鍋店，三兩桌火鍋，食客一邊吹著“龍門陣”，一邊享受著拂面而來的江風，何樂而不為。偶遇一家舊書店，陽光燦爛的天氣，擺出涼椅，旅行的人正好歇歇腳，泡上一壺茶，一坐就是一下午。

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Speaking of walking around a city, it reminds us of Beijing’s Hutongs, Shanghai’s lanes, Guangzhou’s arcades, and Chongqing’s numerous old streets and small lanes. The mountainous city, Chongqing has many old streets which have a history over a hundred year, and all of those long and short, crowded or quite streets and lanes have interpreted the individuality and features of this city. These streets and lanes are just like bloods, stretching to every corner of the city, thus nourishing the city.

We started from Qixinggang to walk along the Consul lane, Shancheng lane, Gulouxiang, walking through Kangjiantang, Adamantine Tower, Daqiangba, Renaitang Hospital, and during the route, there are stilted buildings, brick houses with grey bricks, and all of these old buildings hide in this place and are harmonious with the residents. After urban renewal for many years, the old lanes have some new modern feeling, which have converged the epitome of Chongqing people’s folk daily life, and on the one hand, it’s noisy and fl ourishing, on the other hand, it’s quite and distant. Every slopes and ridges have drawn the outline of Chongqing people’s diversified living space. Fashionable Chongqing is coexisting with daily Chongqing.

These small lanes and old buildings that deeply integrated into Chongqing people’s life have profound historical precipitation, and it must appeal to many old Chongqing people coming here to recall their memories when they were young.

Kangjiantang The Holy Temple of Chinese Drama

Starting from the light rail station of Qixinggang, the first old building that we must see is Kangjiantang, which is situated besides the Guanyinyan station, and this hoary building has experienced wind and rain for tens of years, and it can be easily missed if you don’t notice. In 1940, Guo Moruo decided to build such a kind of building, which was one of the important places to perform plays during the War of Resistance. Many famous classic plays of Chinese drama history, such as, Qinggong Waishi, Fangcao Tianya, Tangdi Zhihua, Hufu, Latecomer in the snow, Under the eaves of Chongqing, Quyuan, Changes and so on had been put on successfully in Kangjiantang.

“王小景同學，你覺得大東溝海戰(zhàn)，北洋水師失利的原因有哪些？”詹尋站在顯示屏右邊的電子地圖前，看著用紅藍箭頭分別標注的清軍和日軍的路線。

During the period of the War of Resistance, Chongqing had become the center of drama movement. At that time, a large batch of famous veteran writers, directors, actors, and great masters gathered in Chongqing, then the drama movement had formed unprecedented climax in Chongqing. But when the drama was developing, the theatres that provided for performances were critically lack of. At that year, after Guo Moruo had an additional post in China Wansui opera troupe which belongs to the China Film Production Factory. Acting as the leader in the troupe, he decided to build a new drama theatre on the condition that only the Cathy Pacifi c Theatre can perform plays to solve the problem. The second photo studio of China Film Production Factory was situated on the kerbside of the Zhongshan fi rst road which was crowded and not suitable for fi lm shooting, and then this place was built into a theatre, and Hua Danni, the wife of famous director Shi Dongshan took charge of reconstructing. The name of Kangjiantang was named after the slogan---“resisting the war and founding a state”.

The resident troupes in Kangjiantang now are Chongqing Modern Drama Troupe and Chongqing Children’s Art Troupe. Seeing from the posters in the door, we can know that all kinds of plays have been put on here. After many years, many artists still perform here, which make this place glowing.

Bodhi Adamantine Tower The Guardian of the City

Walking to the small lane behind the street, nearby the Chunyangdong, we can see a building of pagoda form, with vertical clouds in floral whorl and three-level round pagoda top. The pagoda seat was paved by blue fl agstone, surrounded by iron fences. A kind old man guards here for a long time. As one of the first batches of municipal-level culture relic protection sites after Chongqing becoming a municipality directly under the central government, the pagoda has always been paid close attention to because of it’s unique architectural form, cultural style that integrated Chinese-Tibetan and Chinese and Western, and mysterious legend of the hidden treasures. Although been surrounded by high buildings and big trees, Bodhi Adamantine Tower is still eye-catching and the lapidarian scriptures in the pagoda are still clear. The Missing Shangqing Temple, a popular network novel has introduced that treasures are hidden in the pagoda, which has attracted many people coming here to discover treasures.

In the late 1920s, Pan Wenhua, the first mayor of former national government of Chongqing decided to build a motorway that can reach faraway besides Qixinggang to Shangqingsi in order to extend the downtown area. In order to eliminate the gossip, according to the introduction of Buddhist texts, Pan Wenhua decided to build the Adamantine Tower where the dead can release souls from purgatory, the living can obtain peace forever and remove ill fortune and take refuge. It’s reported that it took 2 years to build the Adamantine Tower and spent 40,000 silver dollars. From laying foundation to completion, the building of the pagoda was guided by Tibetan Lama and the tablet inscription was written by Zhang Xinruo, a Buddhist master. After the completion of Adamantine Tower in 1930, the living Buddha Luona brought tens of Lamas here to chant sutras, which was very spectacle. It was recorded that the incense was very thriving in this tower at that time, and since then, it is here protecting this place silently.

The water tower of Daqiangba The First large-scale Water Plant in Chongqing

Walking downward the slate road, you will find that you are already walking on the footpath of the mountain city. On the roadside, there are many elder ladies who embrace the baby to take a walk, old men who are playing mahjong and playing chess, and middle-aged women who are greeting to each other…… All of these people are old residents here. Walking through the famous Chunyang wine shop toward Gulouxiang, going upstairs, and there is a flat land where the Fengyu pavilion was built, surrounded by walls, so the outsiders can’t get in. The water plant of Daqiangba was completed in 1932, and it was the first large-scale water plant in Chongqing, however, nowadays it is shut. The water tower of Daqiangba was built under the leading of famous expert Shui Xiheng. Besides the water tower, there is a stone tablet, with “the tomb of Shui Xiheng” on it, which is used to in memory of the chief engineer.

At the northern head of Yangtze River Bridge, if you look far into the distance, you can see the European-style towering water tower. The sedimentation tank and part of the former water pipes are still in use, which can provide water for hundreds of thousands of residents in Jiefangbei, Jiaochangkou, Qixinggang, Lianglukou and other places. In those years, because of the wide and open terrain, and situating in the highest point of Yuzhong peninsula in Chongqing’s old city, this place can provide water for the downtown area depending on the natural elevation differences. So the water plant was built here, and the intake was in Daxigou, besides Jialing River. In Qing dynasty, there were set up fort barbette. With the open land, the soldiers practiced shooting here, so it was called “Daqiangba”.

The Consul Lane with no Consulate in This Lane

Walking along the walls of the old city in the Qixinggang Tongyuanmen, you have arrived at the consul lane. When listening to the name at the fi rst time, many people confused consulate with consul lane. Actually, the small lane has nothing to do with present consulate. At that time, the western country set up the first consulate here. In 1896, France and the United States had set up consulates in Chongqing. The Ba county government office at that time decided to set up consulate area in Tongyuanmen, so the small lane with narrow road was once called “the consul lane”.

Early in the 1876, the Qing Government had signed the Sino-British Yantai Treaty with Britain. According to the treaty, Britain can dispatch their people to station in Sichuan’s Chongqing to look over the corresponding affairs of British business in Sichuan. Later on, in 1882, Hexi, the consul of Britain arrived at Chongqing, and he had become the first envoy from foreign country in the history of Chongqing’s relations with foreign countries in modern times.

Over more than 100 years, the toponymy of consul lane is still existing and well-known. However, it just a name and there is already no any consulate in the consul lane.

France’s Ren’aitang Hundred-year Church Hidden in the Lanes of Streets

Walking along the consul lane and downward, passing through the old site of out-patient department of Sichuan’s Chongqing school of traditional Chinese medicine, there is a door opening besides, and in front of the door, there are several square stones, which mean that people usually pass through here. And when you enter into it, the view is suddenly opened. A western building that consists of a round marble pillar and arching windows stands in the green forest, the handrail of vase-style and the decoration of marble pillar between windows reflect each other, which is just like a charming beauty in her late time, and very beautiful, waiting silently in the weeds and bushiness. This is what we called France Ren’aitang. Although it had experienced hundred-year wind and rain, the relief on the walls are clear, which witnessed the earliest port opening in the history of Chongqing.

In 1990, the upper section of footpath of mountain city had been given to the consulate of some country, and the other section had been granted to France’s Roman Catholic Church. In 1902, the French had built Ren’aitang Hospital, churches, monasteries and the house for godfather here. In 1944, Ren’aitang Hospital had changed its name to auxiliary capital traditional medicine hospital (the predecessor of the first hospital of traditional Chinese medicine). At the time when Japan bombed Chongqing, every consulate placed their own country’s fl ags on the roof in order to avoid being bombed by airplanes, so the houses in this area can be kept. According to the record, this area was once called Tiandeng street, when looking here from faraway in the night, the lights of people’s house were just like stars, plus with the high terrain, which made it just like in the sky, so it was called“Tiandeng street”.

Ren’aitang was just built in this commanding height. Standing here and looking down from a height, you can see Yangtze River, Southern bank and former coral dam airport. The surrounding area of the whole building is empty, so it’s not diffi cult to imagine the spectacle and style of the building in those years.

Houlu The Subordinates’ Mansion of Warlord Liuxiang

Walking downward from the old site of Ren’aitang, you can see a building with arching stone gate, and two big chracters “厚廬” were written on the door. Houlu once was the mansion of Lan Wenbin, the subordinate of Liuxiang, the warlord of Sichuan. During the period of the War of Resistance, the governing center of national government moved to Chongqing, and a large batch of important staffs of government, warlords, compradors, and landlords came to Chongqing to build mansions, and this was just one of the mansions. In terms of architectural features, most of these mansions imitated the residences of foreign countries of modern times. Houlu has become the house property of Yuzhong District’s housing management office. The house number of “Shancheng lane No.46” was hung on the wooden folio door.

Shancheng Footpath Having a Panoramic View of Beautiful Sceneries

From the old site of Ren’aitang to Mati street, this was the most essential part of Shancheng footpath. The yellow plank road rails were built high up in the air, and wriggling down from the mountain. Chongqing is a city built on mountain, and the difference of level in many adjacent places has dozens of meters, so the transportation must depend on the city footpath that can help people climbing.

Walking on the squiggly plank road, there are hundredmeter long old city wall on the inner side, the bluestones, mosses, and ancient trees intersecting, and the view is open outside; the river water under the Yangtze River Bridge of Shibanpo and Caiyuanba Bridge is rolling, and the vehicles on the bridges are never-ending. The endless Shancheng footpath, walking a short part can bring different vision and sceneries. Overlooking Changbin Road, looking in the distance the Nanbin Road, looking far into the distance the Nanshang, in the multi-layered sceneries, the Chongqing is just in front of you.

For the people living here, although the house is narrow, every inch of land is precious. The old street is more like an open-air living room. People are chanting in the street and washing in the street. There is a hand washing sink in front of the door, then people can chop vegetables and at the same time chant with each other. The doors are open, and the boiling water on the stove is steaming. There always are tourists passing by, and they are looking around or taking a photo as a moment. And the people living here are accustomed to it.

Walking on the road, you can smell the taste of hotpot. There is a hotpot restaurant with no name nearby Houlu. And in this restaurant, you can see some peope having hotpots, and people are chanting and enjoying the wind blowing on their face, which is so happy. Then you can come across an old book store, in such fine weather, putting out chairs, so the tourists can have a rest, and making a pot of tea, you can sit for a whole afternoon.

Looking for Memories of the City A Journey to Chongqing’s Old Streets and Alleys

□ Written by Yang Yan Photo by Fang Li