英德味道
Situated in the southeast of Nan Ling (or Nan Mountains) in northern Guangdong, Yingde is a city of tremendous attraction for its black tea, Yingde stone and thermal springs. For a good taste of the land abounding in gifts of nature, you don't want to miss the Baojing Palace (meaning “the palace of treasure and crystal”, a karst cave of massive size), mountain peaks along the Yingde West Corridor, and “smashed tea porridge”.
英德素有『嶺南古邑』之稱,品紅茶,常常與賞英石、泡溫泉一起,構(gòu)成英德最吸引人的三要素。若真要細(xì)細(xì)品味英德這個得天獨厚的地方,不能錯過的還有寶晶宮的溶洞和英西走廊的峰林,以及,到村里喝一碗正宗的擂茶粥—— 那才是最古樸的英德味道。
YINGDE BLACK TEA
A SELECTED TEA FOR THE BRlTlSH ROYAL FAMlLY
As the most famous trademark of Yingde, black tea is something that goes to the deepest depths of the memories and taste buds of the natives of Yinde.
Yingde 9 is the most famed of all tea products that the city has produced since the Tang dynasty (618-907), and one of the three biggest black tea names in China, together with Qimen Black Tea and Yunnan Dian Hong. Most impressively, it has a thick fl ower aroma and a strong lingering aftertaste. It is as good to be drunk neat like Qimen Black Tea and Yunnan Dian Hong, as it is with milk. The black tea's fl ower aroma and milk's sweet aroma complement each other perfectly. It is no surprise that the product is sold to more than 70 countries. Even Queen Elizabeth II is a lover of Yingde 9 and used to serve her guests with the black tea and its perfect companion – chocolate cake.
英德紅茶:英國王室御用茶
紅茶是英德最響亮的招牌,是遠(yuǎn)離故土的英德人留在味蕾最深的記憶。英德自唐代開始產(chǎn)茶,其中以“英紅九號”最為有名,與祁門紅茶、云南滇紅并稱中國三大紅茶。第一次品味“英紅九號”,最令人印象深刻的是花香馥郁、回甘濃烈,閉目聞茶,仿佛置身田園。探茶,也是英德旅行的一大樂趣。相較祁紅與滇紅,英紅不僅適合清飲,更適合加奶品嘗,花香與奶的甜香相得益彰,難怪備受西方人青睞,遠(yuǎn)銷七十多個國家。英國女王伊麗莎白二世就是“英紅九號”的粉絲,曾將它作為御用頂級紅茶招待貴賓,一塊杏仁巧克力蛋糕跟它是絕配。
YINGDE STONE
A TRlBUTE TO THE lMPERlAL COURT
Yingde stone is another unique offering of Yingde. Its fame dates back to the Song dynasty(960-1279) when stones were specially supplied to the imperial court. It has remained one of the most coveted stones by collectors of all eras since. The stone, hard and crisp, can produce sounds when tapped. It is known for being “thin, crinkled, seeped and permeable”. A 40-km-long corridor is a wonderful opportunity for visitors to appreciate the local stone culture. A new hotel named “Swan” recently added to the Baojing Palace is decorated with 200,000 pieces of Yingde stones, the fi rst starred hotel to do so in China. Don't you want to take a look at it?
英石:宋代皇家貢品
除了紅茶,英石也是英德一絕,主產(chǎn)于英德山間,早在宋代已經(jīng)成為皇家貢品,奠定“名石”身份。英石質(zhì)堅而脆,叩之有共鳴聲,歷來為收藏者所喜愛。有“石癲”美譽(yù)的宋朝大書畫家米芾將英石的玩賞標(biāo)準(zhǔn)歸納為“皺、瘦、漏、透”四個特點,藝術(shù)特征顯而易見。作為旅游者,賞英石除了到長達(dá)40公里的英石文化長廊慢慢逛之外,最近又多了一種新玩法——坐落于英德寶晶宮內(nèi),一間名為天鵝的酒店最近建成,選用20萬件當(dāng)?shù)赜⑹鳛椤按善毖b點樓體,是國內(nèi)首座英石附身的星級酒店。你有興趣看看嗎?
SMASHED TEA PORRIDGE
A DAlLY MUST-HAVE
There is an old saying widely known to people of Yingde, “I'd rather eat porridge than meat every day.”That porridge refers to the smashed tea porridge, a mixture of smashed tea leaves and rice, among other things. It is most popular among middle aged people as they think of it as having the health benef i ts of helping produce saliva, refreshing the mind, reliving summer heat, and weight loss. If drinking black tea is not an everyday habit for all, eating tea porridge surely is. You'd be lucky to be entertained with the porridge (and another local home-made food, glutinous rice cake) when you visit Yingde. The key to the making of tea porridge is the tea leaves – tea leaves used are often collected between the Qingming Festival (or Ancestors' Day) on the 4th or 5th of April and the Beginning of Summer (the 7th solar term) on the 5th or 6th of May.
擂茶:一日不可食無粥
英德一些老人常說:“寧可食無肉,不可食無粥?!闭f的是英西風(fēng)味擂茶粥。當(dāng)?shù)刂欣夏耆藢λ橛歇氱?,認(rèn)為擂茶粥可以生津止渴、提神醒腦、消暑消滯、減肥健身,每日可以不喝紅茶,但是擂茶是必須的。到英德逛完茶園,不妨到農(nóng)村里走走,如果有幸喝到擂茶粥,務(wù)必表示感激,要知道,在英西農(nóng)村,擂茶粥和自家做的黃糍可是當(dāng)?shù)卮迕裾写腿说母呒壥称贰@薏枰话阌么竺?、花生、芝麻、綠豆、茶葉、山蒼子、生姜等為原料,用擂缽搗爛成糊狀,沖開水,和勻,加上炒米,清香可口。制作一碗好的擂茶,關(guān)鍵是茶葉,一般采用清明至立夏前后的鮮葉,經(jīng)蒸燙去除青澀味,烘干或炒干貯藏備用。出產(chǎn)上等茶葉的英德,能制作出上等擂茶就并不奇怪了。
THERMAL SPRINGS
ENJOY THE FUN OF BATHlNG lN A NATURAL SETTlNG
You must have had a hot spring experience before, but do you fancy a soak in a cave? What about in a treehouse? The fun of bathing in a hot spring lies in the natural setting. If you agree, Yingde's hot springs won't disappoint you. Qidong Hot Spring in Liwu Village is one of China's rare thermal springs set in a cave. The cave is spacious with awe-inspiring stalactites and stalagmites. Another great spot worthy of recommendation is the treehouse hot springs at Tianmengou. A good soak in a hot spring surrounded by lush greens is a superb experience. Or you can do that right on the balcony if you treat yourself to a deluxe treehouse.
溫泉:天然泡湯趣味
溫泉,相信大家一定泡過不少,但是在山洞里泡的又試過沒有?在樹上泡的又如何?溫泉之趣,其實在于天然,以此為標(biāo)準(zhǔn),英德溫泉一定不會令你失望。其中,溶洞溫泉在中國溫泉界并不多見,英德望埠鎮(zhèn)李屋村的奇洞溫泉算是一處。溫泉區(qū)的溶洞寬敞森然,鐘乳石、石筍等形態(tài)各異,或懸掛洞頂,或拔地而起,洞內(nèi)泡湯,閉目養(yǎng)神,能聽見水滴沿著石壁滴在水面。還有英德九州驛站天門溝樹屋溫泉也值得推薦,爬上吊腳樓一般的樹屋,在綠樹環(huán)繞中泡溫泉,人舒服得就像要飛起來。如果你住的房間夠高級,也可以在房間的陽臺上泡。
YINGDE WEST CORRIDOR OF MOUNTAIN PEAKS
MlNl-GUlLlN lN GUANGDONG
The mountain peaks along the Yingde West Corridor have long been known as a mini version of Guilin, a scenic town and one of the best-known tourist destinations in China. While the beauty of Guilin lies in its picturesque mountains and vibrant rivers, the appeal of the Yingde West Corridor originates from its expansive paddy fi elds and well spaced mountain peaks that contrast fi nely with each other. The corridor stretches for 20-plus kilometres from Jiulong to Huanghua townships in southwestern Yingde, and undulates through more than 1,000 limestone mountain peaks of different shapes. Rivers and streams, large and small, wind through them as misty mountains cast their ref l ections on the water. What an unworldly sight to behold! The best time to visit is the planting and harvest seasons, when the paddy fi elds are a scene of bustle and excitement.
英西峰林走廊:廣東“小桂林”
早就耳聞英西峰林有“小桂林”的美名。桂林的美,在于山的秀美和水的靈動;而英西峰林的美,在于廣袤的田野和錯落有致的山峰相互映襯,和寶晶宮溶洞奇觀風(fēng)格大不同。英西峰林走廊位于英德市西南的九龍、黃花兩鎮(zhèn)之間,延綿20多公里的峰林地貌走廊之間,一千多座形態(tài)各異的石灰?guī)r質(zhì)山峰縱橫連綿,大大小小的河流溪澗穿繞其間,山峰云霧繚繞,遇水倒影,一派離塵絕世的景象。到這里旅游最好的時節(jié)是插秧以及收割的時候,田間很熱鬧。一路穿越廣袤的麥田、千姿百態(tài)的山峰、神秘莫測的巖洞、迂回的溪流和郁郁蔥蔥的竹林,你會恍然以為穿越到影視劇中。
KARST CAVE
THE LARGEST OF lTS KlND lN SOUTHERN CHlNA
Baojing Palace is Yingde's top scenic spot. The magnif i cent cave with an area of about 30,000 square metres is the result of 200 million-plus years of tectonic plate movements and is the largest of its kind in southern China. In Baojing Palace, you get to see all kinds of stalactites; in one section you see a magnif i cent royal hall and in another you fi nd yourself in a narrow and twisted labyrinth. Tiny hollow stone tubes hanging from the ceiling and giant stone pillars rising from the ground are both to be found here.
溶洞:嶺南第一洞天
寶晶宮是經(jīng)歷了兩億多年地殼變化而成的大溶洞,溶洞輝煌氣派,面積達(dá)到3萬多平方米,有“嶺南第一洞天”的美譽(yù)。雖說是洞,其實內(nèi)部寬敞雄奇,既有金碧輝煌的大廳,也有迷宮般的通道,更有多層巖洞相疊連通。洞內(nèi)石筍、石柱林立,石花、石幔千姿百態(tài),石鐘乳造型奇特,如花鳥蟲魚,如飛禽走獸,如神仙佛祖,如天池飛瀑。溶洞倒影以及飄雪奇景也是此溶洞的兩大看點,身處其中不禁感嘆,有此好山好水好地方,難怪會有好茶好石好溫泉。
THREE DAYS lN YlNGDE
英德三日
Day1: Zhenyangfang Town (view of Beijiang River)– China Yingde Stone Garden – Jiqingli Black Tea Valley – Xianhu Lake Hot Spring Resort
Day2: Xianqiao Underground River-Baojing Palace (to see the karst caves and rape flowers) –Qidong Cave Hot Spring Resort
Day3: Yingde West Corridor (Dongtian Fairyland Resort, Peng's Ancestral hall, West Yingde's Nine tiers of Sky) – Jiulong or Huanghua Town (to taste Smashed Tea Porridge and Jiulong Toufu)
第一天:湞陽坊旅游小鎮(zhèn)(賞北江風(fēng)情和英石)-中華英石園(賞英石)-積慶里紅茶谷(游覽茶園、品紅茶)-仙湖溫泉度假區(qū)(泡溫泉、住宿)
第二天:仙橋地下河(參觀地下洞河)-寶晶宮(參觀溶洞、賞油菜花)-奇洞溫泉小鎮(zhèn)(泡溫泉、住宿)
第三天:英西峰林(洞天仙境風(fēng)景區(qū)、彭家祠、英西九重天)-九龍鎮(zhèn)、黃花鎮(zhèn)(品嘗擂茶粥、九龍豆腐)
HOW TO GET THERE?
交通指引
1. 高鐵:High Speed Train from Guangzhou to Yingde West Train Station (40 mins)
2. 自駕:Car drive through Guangle (Guangzhou-Lechang) Highway from Guangzhou to Yingde (1 hour)
3. 大巴:Coach from Guangzhou to Yingde (2.5 hours)
6 REASONS TO VlSlT YlNGDE
Text by Chen Yu'si Translation by Leo Photos by Jiqingli Black Tea Valley, Yingde Tourism Board, Wang Ping, CFP & IC