阿蘭杜卡斯雅典娜廣場餐廳 米其林三星的自然之道

在法國傳奇廚師阿蘭·杜卡斯 （Alain Ducasse）看來，西餐的高級料理（Haute cuisine）應(yīng)回歸自然與健康的本質(zhì)。食材品質(zhì)絕佳，技巧為食材服務(wù)，才是烹飪優(yōu)雅之處。由其領(lǐng)銜，由羅曼·麥德爾（Romain Meder）擔(dān)任主廚的巴黎雅典娜廣場酒店餐廳奢華雅致，創(chuàng)新的菜品注重與自然的和諧，品嘗每一道菜猶如一次旅行，于今年榮升為米其林三星級餐廳。

The way legendary French chef Alain Ducasse sees it， to eat more healthily and naturally must be translated into the field of haute cuisine. Exceptional produce expressing their simplicity and a technique which has the elegance to take a step back to their benefit. Under his name and with Romain Meder as the head chef， the Alain Ducasse restaurant at H?tel Plaza Athénée Paris won 3 Michelin Stars this year for their way to naturalness， making each dish an amazing journey.

設(shè)計自然驚艷 Design - A Gorgeous Tribute To Nature

很多人對阿蘭杜卡斯雅典娜廣場餐廳的設(shè)計一見傾心，因為入口處那三塊拋光不銹鋼大貝殼著實驚艷。這三塊貝殼耗費3500個工時打造，客人緩步經(jīng)過這里時，布滿天花的水晶吊燈把貝殼照得流光溢彩。向左走或者向右走，經(jīng)過貝殼間通道的自然分流，才真正進入到舒適的餐廳內(nèi)部。而貝殼的內(nèi)面構(gòu)成了半開放包間，巧妙的設(shè)計總是既美觀又實用。

餐廳的設(shè)計和此間出品的美食相契合，都是以自然為本。貝殼造型預(yù)示著這家餐廳主打海鮮菜品。餐桌的桌面由橡木實木打造，上面還帶著結(jié)疤和紋路的自然痕跡。餐廳左側(cè)有一處唯一的船殼造型的半開放包間，自然的曲線由地面向天花附近延伸，為整個空間帶來了立體感。船殼分兩層，內(nèi)層為白色刻有花紋，反而將原色的木頭露在外層，據(jù)說是向餐廳幕后的所有供應(yīng)商致敬。是供應(yīng)商們帶來的高品質(zhì)食材構(gòu)成了這家餐廳的基礎(chǔ)，盡管他們的貢獻不為客人所見。

People will love the design of Alain Ducasse au Plaza Athénée at first sight， since the three polished stainless steel shells at the room's entrance are just so gorgeous， which took 3，500 hours of labor to complete. The guest is on a threshold in a delayed contrast effect： no longer outside， yet not quite inside， a smooth transition and a gentle manner of giving time to the visitor to enter the restaurant's world. On the concave side， each of these three shells isolates a table， one of them actually becoming the backrest to a sofa.

The space is completely in tune with Alain Ducasse's naturalness cuisine and his quest for the perfect welcome. The three Shells hint that the restaurant specials are from the ocean. The tables are made of solid oak， knots and veins in the wood naturally attract the eye. To the left， an erected boat-hull form delimits a singular space in the restaurant. Of extremely elegant and sleek contemporary lines， it adds verticality to the volume of the room， thus connecting the floor to the ceiling. The interior of the hull is white and carved staff， the exterior in wood. The choice of wood on the exterior evokes a front and backstage to the scenery， a tribute to all the suppliers whose expertise remains invisible， behind the scenes.

魚、蔬菜和谷物―大自然的三重奏Fish， Vegetables And Cereal – The Nature Trilogy

魚和蔬菜搭配谷物，構(gòu)成了這家米其林三星餐廳的大部分菜單內(nèi)容。廚師阿蘭·杜卡斯的初衷是用尋常的食材展現(xiàn)法式高級料理，讓人們吃得更健康，也對地球表示更多尊重。

食材雖尋常，但品質(zhì)要求極高，魚類都是當(dāng)天凌晨捕撈，清晨送達餐廳。9、10月份吃鱸魚、金頭鯛、牡蠣和大蝦；入冬后吃明太魚、塌目魚、鯰魚和灰鯛魚；春天海魴和烏魚最鮮美；夏天是吃鯖魚、布列塔尼龍蝦、多寶魚和紅鰹的季節(jié)。對海洋季節(jié)性的絕對尊重，和中國的古訓(xùn)“不時不食”不謀而合。餐廳的新鮮時蔬水果來自凡爾塞宮的國王菜園，谷物是和專人簽約的有機種植。

餐廳的食材足夠新鮮也足夠簡單，烹飪過程對精確細致的要求卻更高了。發(fā)源于中國、形成于七世紀(jì)日本寺院的精進料理（Shojin cuisine）注重自然本味，受到廚師阿蘭·杜卡斯的推崇。他倡導(dǎo)的法式高級料理汲取了東方料理的優(yōu)點并加以創(chuàng)新，餐廳出品的菜品既和諧自然，又有出其不意的新鮮對比，被米其林評審團譽為“品嘗每一道菜都像一場獨一無二的旅行”。米其林三星水準(zhǔn)的廚藝并不炫技，菜品上桌，所有的準(zhǔn)備工作退為優(yōu)雅的影子，只為更好地展現(xiàn)自然之味。

A trilogy of fish， vegetables and cereal constitutes the bulk of the menu. This trilogy has a specific meaning： to eat more healthily while respecting the planet.

Products are humble but exceptional. All the fishes are delivered in the morning after an ocean catch before dawn. September-October is the season for line caught sea bass or gilthead sea bream， oysters and shrimp. Then， in winter， comes yellow pollack， sole， catfish， grey sea bream and at springtime， the John Dory， black mullet. Finally， summertime brings mackerel， Brittany lobster， turbot and red mullet. The respect to the seasonality of fishing is exactly consistent with Chinese old saying \"Not seasonal， not favorable\". Fresh vegetables and fruits come from the King's garden in Chateau de Versailles， cereal is specially contracted and supplied from organic farming.

The ingredients are fresh and simple but it takes a great deal of delicacy to bring nature to the table. Inspired by Shojin cuisine， an culinary art of Chinese origin and flourishes in Japanese Buddhist temples in the 7th century， Alain Ducasse has integrated in his vision to create haute cuisine in the state of naturalness with harmonies and interesting contrasts. \"Each dish will lead you to an amazing journey\"， as commented by the Michelin judges. The 3 Michelin Stars level is not a display of high skills but rather a technique whose elegance is to fade into the shadows to better serve the flavor of nature.