意大利廚師在重慶創(chuàng)造獨(dú)一無二的意式“重慶味”

□ 文/本刊記者 李靜

意大利廚師在重慶創(chuàng)造獨(dú)一無二的意式“重慶味”

□ 文/本刊記者 李靜

“重慶是一座充滿機(jī)遇的城市，我愛重慶，也愛這里的美食！”作為第一位在重慶生活工作的意大利廚師，Emanuele對重慶懷抱著特殊的感情，在接受我們的采訪時(shí)，他表示，目前最大的愿望，就是將他心目中的意大利美食帶來重慶，與重慶的朋友共同分享。

Emanuele是一個(gè)樂觀開朗的意大利人，從小熱愛廚藝，17歲便在羅馬的一家有名的餐廳擔(dān)任主廚副手，21歲便成為羅馬哥倫布酒店的主廚。2010年，值上海世博會意大利展館開展之時(shí)，Emanuele跟隨作為代表官方的意大利餐廳主廚來到上海，推介意大利美食，從此開啟了與中國的不解之緣。Emanuele對這個(gè)東方大國產(chǎn)生了濃厚的興趣，當(dāng)即決定留在上海的一家意大利餐廳做起了主廚，期待感受不一樣的東方文化。

2011年，Emanuele將他心目中的意大利美食帶到了重慶，目前在一家五星酒店擔(dān)任西廚廚師長，負(fù)責(zé)研發(fā)新的菜式和員工培訓(xùn)。Emanuele認(rèn)為，他對美食的熱愛是與生俱來的，最大的愛好就是研發(fā)美食，而如今，他只是將這一愛好散播到了這座讓他情有獨(dú)鐘的城市。“重慶是一座充滿機(jī)遇的城市”，Emanuele表示，雖然中西方文化差異，剛開始不太習(xí)慣這里的生活，在這里也很難吃到非常正宗的西餐，對于一名專業(yè)的廚師來說，雖然有點(diǎn)遺憾，但也絲毫沒有減弱他對重慶的熱愛。正因如此，他更加積極地工作，期望將更多的意大利美食傳播給這里的人們。

對很多中國人來說，印象中的歐洲人大多是金發(fā)碧眼，做事風(fēng)格也總與嚴(yán)謹(jǐn)、守時(shí)、講規(guī)則聯(lián)系在一起。實(shí)際上，歐洲人與美洲人、北歐人與南歐人，都有著截然不同的個(gè)性。Emanuele稱：“我們（意大利人）是用熱情做事，無論是烹飪還是音樂，還是對待生活的一切，都充滿熱情，而且樂觀，不太會為未來焦慮?！?/p>

雖然來自意大利，說著不同的語言，在重慶工作卻并沒有給他造成太多語言上的困擾。Emanuele在工作時(shí)會選擇用英語與同事交流，彼此分享對西餐烹飪的經(jīng)驗(yàn)，他也會把自己所知的一些烹飪技巧或訣竅告訴他們，互相學(xué)習(xí)交流。而他的中國同事們也會時(shí)不時(shí)地向他打聽意大利的情況，“意大利的生活怎么樣？”“你從羅馬來的嗎？”許多問題他都會耐心地一一回答。Emanuele告訴他們，羅馬也是一座交通擁擠的城市，當(dāng)?shù)厝斯ぷ鲏毫艽?，但氣候非常舒適；而南部是意大利傳統(tǒng)文化和飲食的發(fā)源地，雖然經(jīng)濟(jì)較為落后，但當(dāng)?shù)氐娜藗兏鼝巯硎苊朗?、音樂、舞蹈?/p>

作為一名廚師，Emanuele每到一座城市都會仔細(xì)探索一下當(dāng)?shù)氐拿朗?，現(xiàn)在來到這座傳說中的美食之都，他更是充滿興趣。Emanuele認(rèn)為，重慶美食以辣為主，但辣得有滋有味，“這里的紅油抄手、豌雜面都是我的最愛?！盓manuele不由笑著說。

不僅如此，Emanuele還根據(jù)當(dāng)?shù)夭耸降奶厣c意大利菜相結(jié)合，自創(chuàng)了一道獨(dú)一無二的重慶-意大利式美食——Ravioli with Nduja（中文名家制卡拉布里亞辣豬肉、奶油土豆和香草醬餡兒餃子）。他表示，制作這道菜的靈感來源就是自己在重慶吃的紅油抄手，因?yàn)橐獯罄灿蓄愃频牟耸健猂avioli（意式方形餃），也是最為全世界人民所知的意大利菜品之一。Emanuele想到可以將意大利醬汁與重慶的抄手肉餡結(jié)合，制作出一道中西結(jié)合的菜式。而這道菜就是一個(gè)有餡兒的面食，一款經(jīng)典的餃子。但與以往不同的是，這道菜餃子餡的用料是為了適應(yīng)重慶菜辣的傳統(tǒng)，使用的是卡拉布里亞辣豬肉。辣豬肉是一種源自意大利南部的軟的香腸，非常辣，非常適用于炎熱的天氣，如春天和夏天。為了突出餃子餡的特色，他還用上了清淡的調(diào)味汁、黃油和夏香草。

令人欣慰的是，這道菜一經(jīng)推出，就受到了許多中外食客的喜愛，許多重慶食客也慕名而來。今年4月份，意大利外長訪問重慶時(shí)也在品嘗以后對此贊許有加。

在不少影視劇里，熱情奔放、浪漫已經(jīng)成為意大利人的代名詞，Emanuele也是其中的典型代表?！昂芏嗯⒆诱J(rèn)為，意大利男人最適合談戀愛，浪漫是他們生活的一部分，意大利男人很多情，但婚后會很傳統(tǒng)，十分注重家庭?！闭劦竭@里，Emanuele也表示，太太非常支持自己的工作，跟隨他來到重慶生活，讓他十分感動(dòng)。

Emanuele稱，幾年前剛來重慶時(shí)，在此生活的意大利人很少，隨著重慶越來越開放，國際化程度越來越高，而如今意大利總領(lǐng)事館也在重慶開設(shè)，這個(gè)隊(duì)伍正慢慢壯大，“目前應(yīng)該有40多個(gè)意大利人在重慶生活吧?！彼硎荆貞c人民的友好給他留下了非常深刻的印象，而他也結(jié)交了許多重慶朋友，平日和他們一起外出，一邊進(jìn)行交流，一邊探索這座城市的一切。更難得的是，Emanuele還和在重慶的意大利朋友一起組織了一個(gè)外籍足球隊(duì)，每個(gè)月都會組織2到3場球賽，一起踢球，目前球隊(duì)規(guī)模也在擴(kuò)大，還吸引了許多重慶朋友加入。球隊(duì)成為了重慶與意大利的友人之間溝通交流的一個(gè)平臺。他希望這個(gè)社交圈子可以不斷擴(kuò)大，讓更多的在重慶的意大利人聚集在一起，交流彼此的生活工作。

Emanuele認(rèn)為，在重慶的生活其實(shí)是一種學(xué)習(xí)，在這里有家的感覺，而這里的一切已經(jīng)成為了他生活中的一部分，他也非常享受這里的工作和生活，“重慶給我?guī)砹丝鞓?，這里的人每天都喜笑顏開，非常幸福的樣子。我也希望盡我所能，將更多的意大利美食帶入重慶，創(chuàng)造出更多具有‘重慶味’的意大利美食！”

Emanuele is an optimistic， outgoing and cheerful Italian man who has loved to cook since he was young. He was a sous chef at the Baraonda Restaurant in Rome when he was only 17 years old. He then became a chef at the Columbus Hotel at the age of 21. In 2010，he moved to Shanghai as Executive Chef of an off cial Italian restaurant in the Italian Pavilion to promote the cuisine of Italy during the Shanghai World Expo. Emanuele was deeply attracted by interested in China and decided to stay in Shanghai as a chef in an Italian restaurant so that he could experience the different culture.

In 2011， Emanuele brought his Italian gourmets cuisine to Chongqing. He currently works at a f ve star hotel， where he is responsible for introducing new dishes and staff training. He believes he was born with his love of food and his greatest interest is to make delicious meals.“Chongqing is a city of opportunity”， Emanuele told me. Despite the cultural differences and the difficulty adjusting to life here at first， he now loves the city. Although it was not easy to find a great western restaurant here where a professional chef could work， it hasn't diminished his love for Chongqing， which has inspired his activity at work， to introduce more delicious Italian dishes here.

Many Chinese people view Europeans as mostly blonde， blue eyed， very strict and punctual people who observe the rules involving work. While， in fact， European， Americans，Northern and Southern Europeans all have distinct personality types. Emanuele said: “We do things with passion， whether it's cooking，or music， or anything else in life. We are full of enthusiasm and optimism and less anxious about the future.”

Although he comes from Italy and speaks a different language， working in Chongqing has not been too diff cult. Emanuele communicates with colleagues in English at work. They sharetheir experiences about Western cuisine and he would tell them about his cooking experiences and share his skills， all learning from each other.

His Chinese colleagues occasionally ask him about Italy， “How's the life in Italy？” “Are you from Rome？” He would patiently answer their questions. Emanuele told them Rome is a very congested city， where the locals are under a lot of pressure， but the climate is very nice，while Southern Italy is the sauce of traditional Italian culture and diet. Although the economy is relatively lower there， the local people enjoy good food， music and dance.

As a chef， Emanuele enjoys exploring the cuisine of every city he visits. Since he is in Chongqing now， with its legendary tastes， he is showing more and more interest. He believes Chongqing food is mainly spicy， but very tasteful.“The spicy wonton and Wanza noodles are my favorites，” Emanuele told me with a big smile.

In fact， Emanuele has created a unique Chongqing/Italian style dish called Ravioli with Nduja， based on the characteristics of Chongqing food， combined with Italian cuisine. He was inspired to create this dish when eating wonton in Chongqing， because there is a similar dish， Ravioli （meaning square dumpling） in Italy，which is one of the most popular Italian dishes in the world. Emanuele thought about mixing the Chongqing wonton with Italian sauce to make a blend of the two dishes. It was pasta with stuff ng， classic dumplings. The difference is in the ingredients of the stuffing， to adapt to the traditional spicy Chongqing taste， using spicy Calabria pork， which is a soft sausage from Southern Italy， very hot and suitable for hot weather， such as found in Chongqing in the spring and summer. To highlight the taste of the dumpling， he also added a light sauce， like butter with vanilla. Many customers have shown great interest in his creation and he gained the recognition of the Italian Foreign Minister during his visit to Chongqing in April.

Due to many f lms and TV series， passionate and romantic have become common adjectives for Italians. Emanuele said that although many girls believe romance is in the blood of Italian men， they are， in fact， very traditional and family oriented once got married. When speaking of marriage， Emanuele is very grateful that his wife has fully supported his work and has joined him in Chongqing.

Emanuele said， when he first came to Chongqing， there were few Italians living here. Now， as Chongqing is becoming more open and international， the Italian population is growing. This is also due， in part， to the opening of the Italian Consulate in Chongqing. “There should be more than 40 Italians living here now.” For Emanuele is deeply impressed by the local friendliness. He has made many friends here and enjoys going out to explore the city with them on weekdays.

He even joined an international football team， organized by some Italian friends here. The team plays two or three games every month and has attracted many Chongqing friends to join， providing a platform for communication between local people and Italians. He hopes this network will continue to expand， so more Chongqing people and Italians will gather fogether and share with each other their lives and work.

Emanuele believes learning about life in Chongqing is a process of study. He feels more at home living here and Chongqing has become part of his life， something he truly enjoys. “Chongqing has brought me happiness. People here are very happy. I would like to do everything I can to bring more Italian cuisine to Chongqing and to create more ‘Chongqing/ Italian cuisine'！”

AN ITALIAN CHEF IN CHONGQING Creates a Unique， Chongqing Style Italian Cuisine

□ Written by Li Jing