重慶記趣

□ 文/高興明

重慶記趣

□ 文/高興明

這是一個古老而神奇的地方，公元前17世紀商周時期，巴人以此為首府，建立了巴國，迄今已有三千多年悠久燦爛的文化歷史。

這是一個矗立于長江和嘉陵江交匯處的城市，因水而起，因商而興，中國行政區(qū)域最大、人口最多、中西部地區(qū)唯一的一個中央直轄市。

這是一個十分誘人的城市，城在水中，水在城中，兼具山之俊偉，水之靈氣，就像一個健美男人，肌肉發(fā)達，棱角分明，無處不透出它“雄起”的獨特魅力。

這里，因公元1189年南宋光宗趙惇因其先后在此被封為恭王，后又得以稱帝，以“雙重喜慶”的含義，改名為“重慶”。山城，是這座城市的主城區(qū)，在兩江交融中依山而建，不僅穿街走巷還需爬坡上坎，目前正朝著國際化大都市高速發(fā)展。在這里，你會無處不感到他的青春勃發(fā)，趣事繁多?，F(xiàn)略列三、四，是為趣人趣事。

隨叫隨到的重慶棒棒兒

重慶依山傍水，被稱為山城。在過去城市交通尚不完全便利的時候，在山城中有一個特殊的群體，在大街小巷都會看到一些三五成群、穿著簡單的人，手中持有一根棒棒兒，棒子上系著兩根青色的尼龍繩，滿街頭招攬力活。他們是山城街頭的交通運輸員，他們被稱為棒棒兒。在這群人當中，有年輕力壯的，也有年紀偏大的，或蹲或站，或三五成群圍在一起席地而坐，或聊天拉家常，或打牌扳手腕，臉上都透著笑容，眸子燃著期盼，說一口地道重慶話，向手提東西的路人招徠生意。你只要稍微留意，幾乎在每個公共汽車站或是輪船碼頭或是購物場所，都能看到三五成群的棒棒兒。每當一輛公車到站或是輪船鳴笛停靠碼頭，他們的眼里就放出光亮，希望走下來的人能喊一聲“棒棒兒”，然而這種光亮常常也會瞬息即逝。于是，他們又等待下一輪車船的停靠，周而復(fù)始。就這樣，他們在等待——勞作——再等待——再勞作中過日子，是因為家里還等著他們把掙得的錢趕緊拿回去急用，比如小孩上學、父母看病抑或是買種子買化肥。他們雖然很辛苦很勞累，但過得或許并不比我們差。

棒棒兒的產(chǎn)生，源于山城的特殊地形和碼頭經(jīng)濟，城區(qū)依山而建，出門就爬坡，下船即上坎，其他交通運輸工具去不了，搬運東西成為難題，于是棒棒兒這個行業(yè)就應(yīng)運而生。市民如果不想自己動手，就叫一聲“棒棒兒”，即有人應(yīng)聲而到。

2007年，“重慶農(nóng)民工日”正式成立，重慶棒棒兒們也和其他進城務(wù)工農(nóng)民工一道有了自己的節(jié)日，得到社會的廣泛尊重。

重慶美女：城市里最迷人的靈魂

重慶是一個美女群居的城市，漂亮女人隨處可見。機關(guān)的女辦事員、企業(yè)的女白領(lǐng)、學校的女學生、窗口的女售貨員、酒店里的女服務(wù)員、醫(yī)院的女護士、公路上的女交警……，美女出現(xiàn)在社會的各個領(lǐng)域，各個階層，各個場所。你只要稍微一留意，去公共廁所的路上都會遇見得到，讓你不住回頭一望。

重慶女人之所以美，主要得益于三個方面。一是重慶獨特的地理環(huán)境。一方水土養(yǎng)一方人，重慶地勢陡峭，幾乎每時每刻都在上坡下坎，兩江四岸的梯坎鍛煉出重慶女人挺拔向上和腿形纖長線條優(yōu)美的身材。二是重慶的氣候。重慶常年多霧，有“霧都”之稱，濕潤空氣使人皮膚長期處于保濕狀態(tài)，所以重慶美女皮膚天然的水靈，即便不化妝皮膚一樣驕人。三是重慶的人文。重慶美女皮膚很細嫩，身材很特別，不僅有健康感，而且特別讓人有回眸的感覺。

看重慶美女有四大區(qū)域：解放碑、北城天街、三峽廣場和南濱路。重慶女人不能以相貌論年齡，否則，你會賭輸?shù)?。我原來單位就有一個去年退休的女同志，看上去也不過40歲出頭。她說退休了，結(jié)果很多人都驚訝：“哇！你都退休了？”在重慶這樣的事經(jīng)常發(fā)生。重慶很美，重慶美女則是這座城市里最迷人的靈魂。

絢麗繽紛的重慶夜景

當火紅的太陽從西邊隱去，天空漸漸地暗了下來。我漫步在南濱路的步道上，涼爽的江風帶著濕潤送來陣陣宜人的芬芳。這是一條近幾年才繁華起來的風情街，靠山一面全是餐飲店，靠長江一面是綠樹掩映的步道。柳樹在微風的撫摸下，輕輕地擺動起它的秀發(fā)，跳起輕柔而優(yōu)美的舞蹈。月光如流水一般，靜靜地瀉在江面上，與江水輝映交融，構(gòu)成了一幅漂亮的圖畫。

沿著步道來到彈子石，這里是觀看重慶朝天門夜景的最佳地方，渝中半島盡收眼底。重慶主城三面臨江，一面靠山，倚山筑城，建筑層疊聳起，道路盤旋而上，城市風貌十分獨特，每到夜晚，江、山、燈渾然一體，由此形成綺麗夜景而聞名海內(nèi)外。純凈的江水像一面明鏡，倒映著晃動的樹影和高樓的身軀。在長江、嘉陵江蜿蜒交匯處，朝天門就像一首揚帆的巨輪。從重慶港高樓上投下的霓虹燈不停地旋轉(zhuǎn)，劃過深藍的夜空，成了夏夜中一道靚麗的風景線，好似巨輪的探照燈在指明方向。巨輪上，燈火輝煌，錯落有致，如鉆石群雕，極為瑰麗；江中百舸爭流，流光溢彩。長江大橋、朝天門大橋、菜園壩大橋、大佛寺大橋上裝滿了彩燈，五顏六色，猶如道道彩虹，從天而降，倒映在江面上，波光粼粼。

我們驅(qū)車來到南山一棵樹的觀景臺，這是看包括渝中半島、江北、南岸、沙坪壩、九龍坡、大渡口在內(nèi)主城夜景全貌的極好地方，渝北和巴南的部分夜景也能收入眼中。在這里你會看到，以繁華區(qū)燈飾群為中心，干道和橋梁華燈為紐帶，萬家民居燈火為背景，層層疊出，構(gòu)成一片高低井然、錯落有致、曲直相映、遠近互襯的燈的海洋。以上清寺人民大禮堂、三峽博物館、曾家?guī)r為中心，通向解放碑、江北、沙坪壩、大坪方向的道路上和嘉濱路、北濱路、沙濱路，路燈如連串的夜明珠向遠方延伸，行道樹上的燈光色彩繽紛，川流不息的汽車來來往往，兩旁的路燈排著整齊的隊伍，伸長脖子，像一個個士兵在保護著行人的安全。路邊，一座座高樓大廈拔地而起，家家戶戶都開上了明亮的燈。兩江四岸的路燈宛若繁星，每棟房子的四周，五顏六色的猶如絲帶的彩燈，燈光相互交織，色彩變幻無窮，忽明忽暗。

我們下了山，又來到兩江新區(qū)看噴泉。在北部新區(qū)的幸福廣場，人山人海，無數(shù)霓虹燈在閃爍，五光十色，有的組成各種各樣的形狀，成了音樂噴泉開始前的一道亮麗的風景，前來觀燈賞景的游人絡(luò)繹不絕。只見噴水池上空出現(xiàn)了水霧噴發(fā)有點模糊的畫面，隨即音樂噴泉開始了。起初噴泉只是一簇簇矮矮的小銀柱，隨著音樂的響聲逐漸變高。它們變化多端，有的像大小不同的貝殼，有的像一簇簇五顏六色的珊瑚，有的像孔雀開屏，有的像一個個仙女舞動著長袖……音樂悅耳動聽，彩光中的噴泉隨著音樂的節(jié)奏起伏著，噴泉時高時低，時起時落。有的像仙女的飄帶，有的像怒放的荷花，有的像舞臺上的芭蕾演員……忽然，噴水池噴起一束百十米高的銀柱，真像一艘火箭直射長空。

我愛重慶夜景。那勃發(fā)的音樂噴泉，難道不是重慶人民迸發(fā)出來的蓬勃生機與活力嗎？

非吃不可的重慶火鍋

重慶的飲食文化在整個中國烹飪文化中具有鮮明的個性，重慶是江湖菜和麻辣火鍋的根據(jù)地。

在重慶的餐飲業(yè)中，火鍋又最為出名，在全國乃至世界也是耳熟能詳?shù)奶厣朗?，飛機還在重慶上空，你就能嗅到火鍋的香味。吃重慶火鍋對當?shù)厝藖碚f簡直就是一種享受，出差前要吃頓火鍋，出差回來的第一餐要吃火鍋。外地人到重慶一定要吃火鍋，那是一種體驗，素有“不吃火鍋，未到重慶”一說。

重慶火鍋具有300多年的歷史，起源于朝天門碼頭。當時，在這里的幾個力夫（俗稱“棒棒兒”）發(fā)現(xiàn)一些大戶人家、地主老財，把殺豬殺牛后的內(nèi)臟全扔在了長江嘉陵江，太可惜了，于是撿起來洗干凈，就在碼頭的沙壩上用幾坨石頭壘起個鍋灶，舀幾瓢江水，放上一些辣椒和適量鹽巴，然后圍著鐵盆，各人認定一格，且燙且吃。結(jié)果不僅解決了溫飽，還御寒祛濕，味道好極了！就這樣火鍋逐漸開始演變，花椒、大蒜、生姜……葷與素、生與熟、麻辣與鮮甜、嫩脆與綿爛、清香與濃醇等美妙地結(jié)合在一起。重慶火鍋的種類有很多，比如鴨腸火鍋，鱔魚火鍋、老鴨湯火鍋等，吃重慶火鍋的人數(shù)也不一，可以是一人，也可以是幾人幾十人甚至幾百人，前兩年在南濱路就舉辦了一次萬人同時在一個火鍋里吃的活動，并獲得了世界吉尼斯紀錄。重慶火鍋的鍋型有單鍋、連鍋、格格鍋、鴛鴦鍋，麻辣程度有微辣、輕辣、麻辣、重辣，都會因為顧客人數(shù)的多少和口味而異。

在夏天，你也別嫌周圍吃火鍋的人不雅觀，一桌人圍著紅彤彤的火鍋，男人光著上身，女人光著膀子，搖著蒲扇或是一個黑黢黢的大電扇凳在旁邊，翻撲克、猜拳令、喝啤酒，吃得不亦樂乎，毛肚、鴨腸、黃喉、鱔魚、肉片、肥腸、血旺、豆芽，想吃什么就煮什么。

重慶，非去不可！重慶火鍋，非吃不可！

This is a time-honored and marvelous place where the Ba people built their capital and founded the State of Ba during the Shangzhou Dynasty. To date, its long history and splendid culture have lasted for more than three thousand years.

This is a city standing at the juncture of Yangtze River and Jialing River. The rivers gave birth to the city, and commerce secured its rise. In fact, it is now a city with the largest administrative area as well as population and the only municipality directly governed by the Central Government in Middle and Western China.

This is an absolutely tempting city, embraced by the two rivers, which also run through its territory. It has been endowed with the majesty of the mountain and the purity of the water. Like a fit man with powerful muscle and a clear-cut look, the city is showing a unique vibrant charm all over its land.

Here in 1189, Zhao Dun, Emperor Guangzong of Southern Song Dynasty had first been promoted Prince of Gong and became the emperor of China, who then changed the name of the city to “Chongqing” which literally means double celebration. The so called “mountain city” constitutes the main urban area of the municipality, which is based on the hill at the back and overlooking the rivers. That’s why so many narrow streets and lanes as well as steep slopes can be found. It is developing itself towards an international municipality. Here in the city, vigor and vitality can be felt everywhere, and interesting things are not uncommon. The following are some interesting stories of the people and anecdotes in the city:

Chongqing Bangbang (porters) at your DisposaI

Chongqing stands by the rivers and the mountains, and is thus called mountain city. In this city, there is a special group of people who can be found on the broad streets or narrow alleys. Dressed simple and plain, each of them carries a bamboo or wood pole with two black nylon ropes on both ends, and hangs around the streets waiting for business. They are the porters on the streets of this mountain city and are called Bangbang. Among them, there are the young and strong, and also the senior-aged. They often stand or squat, or gather in three or five sitting together on the ground, chatting, playing cards or arm-wrestling. Smiles are always on those faces, and you may find the glimmer of hope in their eyes. They speak Chongqing dialect, rich in expressions and funny in intonation. They wave hands to the passers-by to get business. If you keep your eyes open, you may find their presence in almost every bus station, dock or shopping place. Whenever a bus arrives at the station or a ship stops at the dock, their eyes shine with a hope that someone might cry out the words “Bangbang”. However, this glimmer in their eyes often disappears quickly. And then, they begin waiting for the next ship to come. They spend their days in waiting and working, and repeat the process again and again. They do this because their family needs the money, maybe for their children to go to school, their parents to pay the medical bills or to buy seeds and fertilizers. Their work is exhausting but they are no less happy than us.

Bangbang porters come into being because of the special topography and the port economy of the mountain city. The urban area is built near the mountains, and people have to climb the slopes when they come out of their home or get off the ship. When things can only becarried instead of using vehicles, Bangbang come as needed. If people don’t want to carry things by themselves, then shout out “Bangbang” and they will heed your call.

Now, the local government has designated the first Sunday of November each year to be the Migrant Workers’ Day. Like other migrant workers, the Bangbang porters are well respected by the society.

Chongqing GirIs: Most Charming SouIs in the City

As an icon of the city, beautiful girls are ubiquitous in Chongqing. Female government clerks, office ladies, school girls, salesladies, waitresses, nurses, policewomen…They appear in all fronts, all levels and all positions of the society. One may even encounter one at any place.

The beauty of Chongqing girls mainly derive from three aspects, and the first one is the unique geographic environment. As precipitous terrain is unique to Chongqing, girls here need to climb or descend stairs at any time and thus have slim figures. Second, pleasant climate. Known for foggy weather around the year, Chongqing is also called the “Foggy Capital”. Moisturized with humid air, local girls have hydrated skin even without wearing make-ups. Third, unique charm. One may stare at Chongqing girls not because of their astonishing athletic beauty, but also their lingering charm.

The following are four spots to encounter beautiful Chongqing girls: Jiefangbei, Beichengtainjie, Three Gorges Plaza and Nanbin Road. None of the local women can be told by their age. In the place I used to work, a female co-worker looks at her 40s but has already retired, which amazed a lot of people. Such “wows” always happen in Chongqing. Last year, a male cadre was sent from Beijing to the office in Chongqing, and always joked with the female chief who looked very pretty and young. He, however, was rendered speechless after finding out that her child was old enough to attend college. Among all beauties of Chongqing, the local girls are the most enchanting souls of this city.

SpIendid Night View of Chongqing

While the fiery sun retreats from the west, the sky dims out. Strolling on the pathway of Nanbin Road, I was refreshed by the fragrant and cool river breeze. This is a commercial street gaining prosperity only in the recent years with restaurants on the mountain side and pathways canopied by trees on the Yangtze River side. Caressed by the breeze, willows danced gently and gracefully. The moonlight tranquilly shed on the river surface and merged with the water into a picturesque view.

I approached Danzishi along the pathway, which was the best place for Chaotianmen night views and Yuzhong Peninsula. The Chongqing proper is embraced by rivers at three sides and mountains on one side. As the city is built along the terrain, buildings pile up one after another and the roads find their way up the hills. The unique landscape is featured by a unity of rivers, mountains and lights during the night, hence the splendid night view is known home and abroad. Resembling a mirror, the clear river reflects swaying trees and towering buildings. At the juncture of Yangtze River and Jialing River, Chaotianmen stands just like a giant steamship. Neon lights projected from skyscrapers at Chongqing port keep swirling through the blue night sky and form a shiny view in the summer night, resembling the searchlight of the ship for directions. On the “ship” per se, numerous lights cluster together like magnificent diamonds with radiant splendor on hundreds of boats in the river. Yangtze River Bridge, Chaotianmen Bridge, Caiyuanba Bridge and Dafo Temple Bridge are all ornamented with colorful lights rippling through the river.

Mounting to the viewing deck at Yikeshu, Nanshan Mountain, we found it is a vantage point to the overall night view of Yuzhong Peninsula, Jiangbei, Nanan, Shapingba, Jiulongpo and Dadukou districts and some view of Yubei and Banan. Here one can see an light ocean with from high and low, near and far of different layers centered upon the downtown areas and linked by the artery roads and bridges. Revolving upon Shangqingsi People’s Auditorium, Three Gorges Museum and Zengjiayan, the strings of light pearls stretch all the way from Jiefangbei, Jiangbei, Shapingba, Daping to Jiabin Road, Beibin Road and Shabin Road. Lamp poles flank the roads with busy traffic just like soldiers sticking out chins to protect pedestrian safety, casting colorful light on trees. On the roadside, tall buildings rise above the ground and every household is lit up. Flickering lights on two rivers and four banks surround the buildings in the shape of silk ribbons by intertwining each other in infinite colors.

Then we went down the mountain to watch the fountain inLiangjiang New Area. On the Happy Plaza, Beibu New Area, numerous visitors gather to enjoy the dazzling neon lights in various shapes before the start of music fountain. First, a blurry water mist appeared above the spray pool, and the music fountain began. In the beginning, the fountain was only made of clusters of low silver columns, as music got louder, it changed to multiple shapes such as various shells, clusters of colorful corals, peacocks displaying features and fairies dancing with long sleeves… The fountain undulated with the melody with ups and downs, resembling fairy’s belts, blossoming lotus flowers and ballet dancers on the stage…All of a sudden a 100-m high column surged in the pond, impressing people like a rocket in the space.

I love the night view of Chongqing. Isn’t the thriving music fountain full of vitality and dynamism just like Chongqing people?

Chongqing Hotpot: A Must Try DeIicacy

Standing out with strong characteristics in China’s culinary culture, Chongqing diet is represented by grassroot dishes and spicy hotpot.

Undoubtedly, hotpot is the most well known in China and the world among all Chongqing cuisines. As an exaggerated saying goes, one can smell hotpot when fly above Chongqing. Eating Chongqing hotpot is sheer enjoyment to local people, as they must have one before travelling to other places and another upon the return. Non-locals certainly would not miss the hotpot in Chongqing because it is a precious experience here. As the saying goes, one has not tasted the hotpot comes to Chongqing in vain.

With a history of over 300 years, Chongqing hotpot originates from the quay of Chaotianmen. At that time, several porters found the discarded animal guts in the Yangtze River and Jialing River by wealthy people and developed a unique way of cooking by building a stove with stones, mixing chili and salt with the river water, soaking the cleaned guts in the pot and eating from different partitions. Apart from filling the stomach with amazing taste, the hotpot also fends off the cold air and humidity. Then it keeps evolving with other spices such as brown pepper, garlic, ginger…Meat and vegetable, the raw and the cooked, spice and sweetness, the tender and the chewy, the refreshing and the mellow are exquisitely blended together. Besides many types like duck intestine, eel and duck soup, there is no restraint of the number of diners, ranging from one to hundreds. Previously, there was a hotpot-eating event involving 10,000 people simultaneously in Nanbin Road, creating a Guinness world record. The pots include single pot, connected pot, partitioned pot and double-flavored pot and the spicy levels involve mild spicy, light spicy, numbing spicy and heavy spicy, which can vary according to the number of diners and individual tastes.

In summer, men eating the fiery hotpot without shirts on and women in their dresses are not considered inelegant here. Just imaging, a bunch of people sitting beside a giant fan, playing poker and wine games, drinking beer and eating all the delicacies from the spicy broth, what a pleasure!

Chongqing, a destination always on the itinerary, so is its hotpot!

Sketch of Chongqing

□ Written by Gao Xingming