遠(yuǎn)離塵囂的阿曼之旅

by Natalia Rachlin

Cass 譯

遠(yuǎn)離塵囂的阿曼之旅

Road-Tripping Through Oman

by Natalia Rachlin

Cass 譯

阿曼蘇丹國(guó)（The Sultanate of Oman），簡(jiǎn)稱阿曼，古代稱馬肯，意為礦產(chǎn)之國(guó)。這里地廣人稀，擁有美麗的自然風(fēng)光以及豐富的歷史遺跡—沙灘、荒漠、高山、古堡、宮殿、廟宇……讓我們隨著作者的講述來(lái)一場(chǎng)放松身心的視覺(jué)之旅吧！

I am not a born adventurer, which is not to say that the appeal of the unfamiliar or the power of nature is lost on me; nor do I suffer from a lack of curiosity. But I don’t like heights, and I’m not particularly fond of not knowing what comes next.

我不是一個(gè)天生的冒險(xiǎn)家，這并不是說(shuō)未知事物或者自然力量對(duì)我沒(méi)有吸引力，也不是說(shuō)我缺乏好奇心。但是我不喜歡高處，也不是特別喜歡那種不知道接下來(lái)會(huì)發(fā)生什么的感覺(jué)。

So when I find myself some 9,000 feet above sea level, tiptoeing along a narrow path on the side of Jebel Shams—the highest mountain in Oman and part of the Al Hajar range, which curves along the Arab country’s northern coast—I can’t help but think that I’ve come a long way. Below me are the unforgiving, Wadi Ghul1)rusty brown2)ravines of Wadi Ghul, known as the Grand Canyon of the Middle East; above, the3)jagged peaks seem to rise higher and higher into cloudless skies.

因此當(dāng)我發(fā)現(xiàn)自己身處海撥高度約9000英尺之上，踮著腳沿著杰貝爾夏姆斯山的一條狹窄通道行走時(shí)，我不禁想到自己已經(jīng)走了很長(zhǎng)一段路。杰貝爾夏姆斯山是阿曼最高的山，也是艾爾哈賈爾山脈的一部分，這條山脈圍繞著阿拉伯國(guó)家的北部海岸。我的腳下就是無(wú)情的銹棕色瓦迪古勒溝壑，有“中東大峽谷”之稱；而往上看，則是鋸齒狀的山峰，節(jié)節(jié)攀升，仿佛一直延伸至無(wú)云的天際里。

“So do you feel like4)Indiana Jane yet?” asks my French boyfriend, Jerome, who is waiting for me to catch up. He grew up in the Alps and for him happiness is climbing up, skiing down or just looking at a mountain.

“有感覺(jué)自己像是女版印第安納·瓊斯嗎？”我的法國(guó)男友杰羅姆這樣問(wèn)道，他正等著我跟上去。他從小在阿爾卑斯山長(zhǎng)大，對(duì)于他而言，幸福就是攀山、滑雪或就只是盯著一座山看。

“A little,” I say, watching where I put my feet, as the so-called trail is barely5)perceptible. I wouldn’t be here if I hadn’t confirmed that the6)cragged facades look steeper than they really are. We reach a bend where the cliffs form a towering U-shape around us, then we sit on a7)boulder and eat an orange.

“有一點(diǎn)兒，”我邊回答道，邊留心著下腳處，因?yàn)槟撬^的小道幾乎微不可察。要不是確信崎嶇的山勢(shì)實(shí)際上并沒(méi)有看起來(lái)那么陡峭，我現(xiàn)在絕不會(huì)站在這里。接著我們到達(dá)了一個(gè)轉(zhuǎn)彎處，峭壁在我們周圍形成了一個(gè)高聳的U形，我們坐在一塊大圓石上吃了個(gè)橙子。

We don’t say much; it feels somehow impolite to disturb the quiet. Two days before, we’d set out on the five-day, 500-mile road trip from Abu Dhabi, in the8)United Arab Emirates, to Muscat, the capital of Oman, in search of such serenity. That, and the diverse and rugged landscapes for which Oman is known, including towering mountain ranges, stretches of untouched desert and9)lush oases tucked in rocky canyons.

我們并沒(méi)有說(shuō)太多話，總感覺(jué)打破這份寧?kù)o是件不禮貌的事。兩天前，我們從阿拉伯聯(lián)合酋長(zhǎng)國(guó)的阿布扎比市出發(fā)，進(jìn)行為期五天、全程長(zhǎng)達(dá)500英里的自駕游，目的地是阿曼的首都馬斯喀特，只為尋找這樣的寧?kù)o。除此之外，還能欣賞到阿曼那多種多樣、崎嶇陡峭的著名地形風(fēng)貌，包括高聳入云的山脈、連綿不絕的沙漠和巖石峽谷中郁郁蔥蔥的綠洲。

We’d left Abu Dhabi before dawn, stopping in the desert between there and Al Ain—the Emirate’s second largest city—to go dune-driving at sunrise. We tore through stretches of camel-colored sand, me sitting in the back seat of our Nissan Patrol, Jerome at the wheel, Jimi Hendrix’s Voodoo Child blasting from the stereo. I10)squealed as a mix of11)elation and12)nausea took hold.

黎明之前，我們就離開(kāi)了阿布扎比市，在阿布扎比市和阿萊茵—阿拉伯聯(lián)合酋長(zhǎng)國(guó)的第二大城市—之間的沙漠停留，日出之時(shí)我們?cè)谀莾旱纳城鹕像{駛。我們穿過(guò)了長(zhǎng)長(zhǎng)的駱駝色沙丘，我坐在東風(fēng)日產(chǎn)途樂(lè)越野車后座，杰羅姆在駕駛，音響大聲播著吉米·亨德里克斯的《巫毒之子》。當(dāng)興奮感和惡心感同時(shí)襲來(lái)之時(shí)，我開(kāi)始尖叫起來(lái)。

From there, we headed east into Oman. Jerome marveled at the highway that had been a dirt road when he last visited the country a decade ago; mosques and houses were being built by the dozen, rising from the otherwise barren lands that13)flank the highway. The further we went, the more building sites, road extensions and infrastructure improvements we saw; Oman feels like an entire land under construction. And, in fact, it sort of is; in the next five years the country plans to spend $8 billion to build some 7,500 miles of road.

我們從那里向東行駛到阿曼。杰羅姆驚嘆道，眼前這條公路在十年前他拜訪阿曼時(shí)還只是一條泥土路；高速公路兩旁原本貧瘠的土地上也建起了大量的清真寺和房子。我們走得越遠(yuǎn)，就看到越多的建筑工地、道路擴(kuò)建和基建項(xiàng)目；感覺(jué)整個(gè)阿曼都在建設(shè)中。而事實(shí)上，確實(shí)如此；在未來(lái)五年里，阿曼計(jì)劃投入80億美元來(lái)建造大約7500英里公路。

1) rusty [?r?st?] adj. 生銹的，鐵銹色的

2) ravine [r??vi?n] n. 溝壑， 峽谷

3) jagged [?d??ɡ?d] adj. 鋸齒狀的，（外形）參差不齊的

4) Indiana Jane 其實(shí)并沒(méi)有Indianna Jane的存在，其改自Indianna Jones（印第安納·瓊斯），印第安納·瓊斯是系列電影《奪寶奇兵》的男主角，是個(gè)充滿智慧和冒險(xiǎn)精神的考古學(xué)家。此處運(yùn)用了仿擬（parody）的修辭手法，有幽默的效果

5) perceptible [p??sept?bl] adj. 可察覺(jué)的，感覺(jué)得到的

6) cragged [?kr?ɡ?d] adj. 陡峭的，崎嶇的

7) boulder [?b??ld?] n. 大石頭，漂石

8) United Arab Emirates 阿拉伯聯(lián)合酋長(zhǎng)國(guó)

9) lush [l??] adj. 青蔥的，繁榮的

10) squeal [skwi?l] v. 長(zhǎng)聲尖叫，抱怨，激烈抗議

11) elation [??le??n] n. 得意洋洋，興高采烈

12) nausea [?n??sj?] n. 反胃，惡心,

13) fank [fl??k] v. 在……的側(cè)面

Deep in the Al Hajar range, in an area known for its temperate climate and terrace-style orchards, where14)pomegranates,15)apricots, apples and figs have been grown for centuries, we spent the night at a cliff-side hotel on Jabal Akhdar (Green Mountain). Our room offered views of verdant mountaintops and plunging16)gorges that seemed to swallow the sun at dusk.

在艾爾哈賈爾山脈深處，有一個(gè)地區(qū)以溫和氣候和梯田果園而聞名，在那里，幾個(gè)世紀(jì)以來(lái)，石榴、杏子、蘋果和無(wú)花果被廣為種植。我們?cè)谘虐蜖柊瓦_(dá)爾山（綠山）上的崖邊旅館過(guò)夜。在我們的房間可以觀看到青翠的山頂，還有陡斜的峽谷，看起來(lái)就像是要吞噬傍晚時(shí)分的夕陽(yáng)。

The next morning, we roamed the pomegranate orchards of the Saiq Plateau. By mid-afternoon we headed for Nizwa, one of the country’s oldest cities, where we visited the Nizwa Fort, a17)cylindrical 17th-century defense tower that is an imposing example of traditional Islamic architecture, with intricate detailing and a18)symmetric building style. We spent the early evening perusing silver shops—Nizwa is famous for its chased and pierced jewelry. Then, while sitting on plastic chairs in a parking lot across from the19)souk, we ate the best chicken20)shawarma of our lives to the sound of evening prayer.

第二天早晨，我們游逛了塞奇高原上的石榴果園。下午三點(diǎn)左右我們出發(fā)前往尼茲瓦，這個(gè)國(guó)家最古老的城市之一，在那里我們參觀了尼茲瓦城堡—建于17世紀(jì)的一座圓柱形防御塔，典型的傳統(tǒng)伊斯蘭風(fēng)格建筑，以錯(cuò)綜復(fù)雜的細(xì)節(jié)設(shè)計(jì)和對(duì)稱的建筑風(fēng)格著稱。我們花了整個(gè)傍晚細(xì)細(xì)瀏覽銀飾店—尼茲瓦也因其精美的浮雕和鏤空珠寶首飾而聞名。接著，坐在露天市場(chǎng)對(duì)面停車場(chǎng)的塑料椅子上，伴隨著晚禱聲，我們吃掉了此生吃過(guò)的最好吃的雞肉沙瓦瑪烤肉卷。

Some 12 hours later, we’re sitting on a boulder and eating our orange, with no other humans in sight. The sense of being the last two people on earth makes it impossible to avoid getting a bit refective, and I think about the privilege of being out of one’s normal context and comfort zone.

大約12個(gè)小時(shí)后，我們坐在圓石上吃橙子，周圍荒無(wú)人煙。那種作為地球上最后兩個(gè)人類的感覺(jué)，使我們不得不陷入沉思，而我當(dāng)時(shí)想到了那種置身于平常處境和舒適區(qū)之外的自由。

I wonder if I am catching on to this adventure thing, as we’re back in the car and making our way down the mountain via steep, unpaved strips of rocky earth that take us through Wadi Bani Awf—a gorge that is considered Oman’s most thrilling21)off-road experience. The four-hour descent is spectacular and terrifying; the only things stopping the car from tumbling into a ravine are Jerome, who learned to drive on the icy roads of Chamonix, and a bit of luck. Longhair mountain goats scale cliffs as we pass through the tiny, remote town of Balad Sayt, situated in an oasis of palm trees, before emerging from the rocky trail and fnding our way back to the highway.

當(dāng)我們回到車?yán)铮刂盖?、未?jīng)鋪砌且崎嶇的小山路下山，去往瓦迪貝尼奧夫時(shí)—一個(gè)被稱為擁有阿曼最驚心動(dòng)魄的越野體驗(yàn)的峽谷，我不知道自己是否突然領(lǐng)悟到這種冒險(xiǎn)的意義所在。長(zhǎng)達(dá)四個(gè)小時(shí)的下坡路實(shí)在是壯觀和驚險(xiǎn)；如果說(shuō)有什么能夠阻止汽車撞入峽谷，那就是杰羅姆，他是在夏蒙尼結(jié)冰的路面上學(xué)會(huì)了開(kāi)車的，再者就是一點(diǎn)點(diǎn)運(yùn)氣了。當(dāng)我們經(jīng)過(guò)偏遠(yuǎn)的巴拉德塞特小鎮(zhèn)時(shí)，看見(jiàn)長(zhǎng)毛山羊正攀登著上懸崖。小鎮(zhèn)坐落于一片棕櫚樹(shù)綠洲中，然后，我們走出了巖石小道，回到了公路上。

We drive the remaining 100 miles or so toward Muscat, where we’ll spend the next day lying on the beach,22)haggling at the Old Muttrah Souk,23)ogling Sultan Qaboos bin Said Al Said’s palace and admiring the coastline dotted with elegant white houses, before heading back to Abu Dhabi for a flight home.

我們向著馬斯喀特開(kāi)去，走完剩下大約100英里的路程。我們將在那里度過(guò)接下來(lái)的一天，可以躺在沙灘上曬日光浴，在老穆特拉露天市場(chǎng)討價(jià)還價(jià)，瞻仰蘇丹卡布斯賽義德王朝的宮殿，或是欣賞點(diǎn)綴著優(yōu)雅白色房子的海岸線，這些都是我們?cè)诜祷匕⒉荚仁谐孙w機(jī)回家之前能夠好好享受的。

As we approach Muscat by night we pass the spectacularly lit Grand Mosque, which dominates the low skyline, its glowing dome an ornate sphere foating atop tons of pale Indian sandstone.

黑夜來(lái)臨，我們駛進(jìn)馬斯喀特，經(jīng)過(guò)壯觀的亮燈大清真寺，襯著低矮的天際線，其發(fā)光的圓頂—一個(gè)華麗的球體，飄浮在數(shù)噸灰白的印度砂巖之上。

And then we pass it again, and again, stuck in a maze of roadwork and detours that seem to get more tangled at every turn. Recent changes to the highway have rendered our 2012 map useless, and the city is apparently so much in24)fux that even our GPS can’t keep up. I consider turning on my iPhone to see if that little blue dot will help us find our way, but I decide we should allow ourselves to be lost, at least for a little while.

然后我們一遍又一遍地經(jīng)過(guò)那里，陷入布滿小道和彎路的迷宮中，越走便似乎變得越復(fù)雜。最近改建的公路已經(jīng)使得我們那張2012年的地圖無(wú)用武之地，而這個(gè)城市顯然一直在變化，以至于全球定位系統(tǒng)都跟不上道路變化。我考慮過(guò)開(kāi)啟蘋果手機(jī)看看小藍(lán)點(diǎn)是否能幫助我們找到方向，但是我認(rèn)為我們應(yīng)該讓自己繼續(xù)迷失，至少還可以再迷失一會(huì)兒。

14) pomegranate [?p?mɡr?n?t] n. 石榴

15) apricot [?e?pr?k?t] n. 杏，杏樹(shù)

16) gorge [ɡ??d?] n. 山峽，峽谷

17) cylindrical [s??l?ndr?kl] adj. 圓柱的

18) symmetric [s??metr?k] adj. 相稱性的，均衡的

19) souk [su?k] n.（阿拉伯國(guó)家城市的）露天市場(chǎng)

20) shawarm 中東地區(qū)常見(jiàn)的烤肉卷，也被稱為中東地區(qū)的三明治， 通常指的是在皮塔面包中夾上羊肉，雞肉或者蔬菜

21) off-road 越野的

22) haggle [?h?ɡl] v. 議價(jià)，討價(jià)還價(jià)，爭(zhēng)論

23) ogle [???ɡl] v. 注視

24) fux [fl?ks] n. 變遷