巴西：通往里約熱內(nèi)盧的一路碧途

I could relax. I’d found a restaurant without candles， without couples， and without piped 1）bossa nova. Paraty is quite possibly the most romantic town in the world. Full of cute pastel-coloured colonial buildings， it’s an ideal photogenic backdrop for honeymooners.

As a solo traveller I was half-minded to miss it out altogether， but as it lies bang in the middle of Brazil’s Costa Verde—the 350-mile “green coast” between Santos and Rio de Janeiro—it made for a convenient sleepover stop. And it is beautiful， and old and wellpreserved.

I’d started in 2）laid-back fashion in a male solo traveller’s comfort zone—football. I flew into S？o Paulo and transferred directly to Santos. With the World Cup coming up， I decided to pay homage to one of the country’s greatest football clubs before setting off on my road trip.

Santos is one of those lovely towns everyone ignores. It has the Museu do Futebol in an 3）annex of Santos’s stadium. My guide， Diego Leme， took me on a breezy tour of the changing rooms， wall displays and arena. After showing me photographs of the 4）striker 5）Neymar， he announced： “Neymar is the prince of the club.” Then he paused， 6）pirouetted， and pointed at a massive photograph of a familiar， smiling face. “But of course， this is the king.”

7）Pelé， who scored more than 1，000 goals for Santos and helped the club tally six Brazilian championships， is saint， king and god of the city. It was he， more than anyone else， who inspired the club’s 2012 centenary motto： “One hundred years of football art”.

The next morning， I walked along the beach. At either end were low hills 8）clad in the dense vegetation of the Mata Atlantica， a threatened ecosystem that once dominated the Brazilian coast.

The coastal road—officially named the Rodoviário Doutor Manoel Hyppolito Rêgo， or BR101—has several “trechos sinuosos”， or zigzagging roads， winding their way up the steep hills. The climbs open up vistas of the many beaches on S？o Paulo’s northern coast—33 of them in all， a local assured me. Some were long， surfer-friendly， classically Brazilian； others were coves at the foot of several cliffs.

The first beach I visited， Toque Toque Grande， south of Maresias， had a bar， a tiny church and not much else. My 9）bungalow for two nights， at Ilha de Toque Toque， a boutique hotel named after a tiny offshore island， overlooked the short strip of sand. I had a lunch of ceviche and chatted to the owner， Edson， a former corporate lawyer at the digital-media company AOL， who gave up his day job to work in a place where he used to take holidays.

After lunch， I walked down to the beach， descending 10）vertiginous， moss-covered steps. An 11）angler was hooking prawns and casting into the surf for 12）white croaker fish， and two young lads were riding into the waves on 13）boogie boards. The ocean slapped the sand with force and I sat， hesitating about taking a swim for fear of rips， until a little boy came down to the beach and dove headfirst into a curling wave. I got up and had a swim.

A funny sort of alienation awaited me at my next stop， on the island of Ilhabela. On my hotel’s semi-private beach， wealthy S？o Paulo weekenders slugged chilled Skol and Bohemia beers. Out on the water， 14）Brigitte Bardot lookalikes did 15）stand-up paddle surfing. All the men wore tangas—skin-tight trunks that went out of fashion in Britain in 1975. And yet， I was never ill at ease； for every perfect Brazilian， there are always three or four normal people. Or helpful oddballs： I saw one man who had three blonde fringes—one on his face and one on each nipple.

If the Costa Verde is celebrated for its marvellous beaches—and beach culture—I’d rate even more highly its wilderness. Nature here is 16）exuberant： palms burst from cliff walls and mist drifts over forested valleys， as pink and orange flowers erupt on the roadside. Even where there has been agriculture， the grass glows bright green. Everywhere the jungle is invading， spilling over， reclaiming territory.

At Ubatuba， a small coastal town that sits on the 17）Tropic of Capricorn， I took a left and made for the Fazenda Catu？aba. I’ve always thought of Brazil as flat. It’s not， and the road up through the Serra do Mar coastal mountains was ear-popping and occasionally heartstopping. On the other side of the mountain mist， I came out into lovely pastureland and the fazenda—or estate—up a dirt road just beyond its namesake village. It was good to be in cooler air， to see different bird life， trees， culture—the fazenda still grows organic coffee and distils cacha？a， the sugarcane-based firewater that gives caipirinhas their kick—and to dine on beef rather than fish.

Back on the coast， I drove past the sign marking the tropic and was soon at Paraty， where I shunned the smooching couples， had a late lunch of excellent pizza and stumbled around the streets.

The final drive， into Rio， was wild and wonderful. I was behind the wheel for five hours， in torrential rain， and once free of the BR101 I always felt I was going to get lost， or squashed by buses and trucks. But I eventually found the high-rise suburb of Barra da Tijuca， south of Rio， and entered via the coast road and， after tunnels and crazy roads and a raised section of highway， I turned and found myself driving along Leblon beach， then Ipanema and then the glorious curve of Copacabana’s Avenida Atlantica. The beach was empty， the roads bumper to bumper. I felt like a carioca， a Rio native.

If I’d started with football as art， I finished my trip with proper art—at the new Casa Daros and MAR art museums—and with one last football sight： Maracan？ stadium.

If Santos’s equivalent was clubby and local， this was 18）grandiose and international， like Rio itself. The football showcase and the city’s 19）renaissance attract millions， but don’t forget S？o Paulo—not the overpopulated 20）megalopolis， but the empty beaches and the beautiful， 21）renascent， deep green coast.

我能夠放松下來了。我找到了一個(gè)餐廳，沒有蠟燭，沒有情侶，也沒有吹奏的波薩諾瓦舞曲。帕拉蒂鎮(zhèn)很可能是世界上最浪漫的小鎮(zhèn)。四周滿是可愛的粉彩色殖民地時(shí)期建筑，對(duì)于蜜月中人來說，這里作為拍照背景真是再理想不過了。

作為一個(gè)獨(dú)行旅人，我都不怎么想去這地方的，不過既然它正好位于巴西的“綠色海岸”中間——桑托斯市和里約熱內(nèi)盧之間長達(dá)350英里（約563公里）的地帶——因此是個(gè)相當(dāng)方便的過夜落腳點(diǎn)。而且這里美麗、歷史悠久且保存完好。

我的悠閑之旅始于男性獨(dú)行旅人的安全地帶——足球。我先飛往圣保羅市，接著直接轉(zhuǎn)到桑托斯市。隨著世界杯的臨近，我決定在動(dòng)身開始公路之旅之前，先向這個(gè)國家其中一個(gè)最偉大的足球俱樂部致敬。

桑托斯市是那些會(huì)被所有人忽視掉的宜人小城之一。在桑托斯體育場的附屬建筑里有一座足球博物館。我在向?qū)У蟻喐纭とR米的引領(lǐng)下輕松游覽了更衣室、展示墻和體育場。在向我展示了前鋒內(nèi)馬爾的照片后，他宣稱：“內(nèi)馬爾是這個(gè)俱樂部的王子。”接著，他頓了頓，用單腳尖旋轉(zhuǎn)了一圈，指著一張巨大照片上一個(gè)熟悉的笑臉說：“當(dāng)然了，這位是國王?！?/p>

貝利，為桑托斯射進(jìn)超過1000個(gè)球，并幫助俱樂部六奪巴西冠軍，是這個(gè)城市的圣人、王者和神祗。正是他，而非其他人，啟迪了這個(gè)俱樂部2012年的百年格言：“足球藝術(shù)的一百年?！?/p>

第二天清晨，我沿著海岸漫步。海岸兩側(cè)的低矮小山上覆蓋著稠密的大西洋雨林植被，巴西海岸以前全是這樣的生態(tài)系統(tǒng)，如今已岌岌可危。

這條海岸公路——官方名稱是馬諾埃爾·西波利托·雷哥醫(yī)生公路，或BR101——有著許多曲徑，蜿蜒伸展直至陡峭的小山上。爬上山頂，圣保羅市北部海岸許多沙灘的遠(yuǎn)景盡現(xiàn)眼前——總共33個(gè)，一位當(dāng)?shù)厝讼蛭冶ＷC說。有些綿長、適宜沖浪，典型的巴西風(fēng)格；其他的則在許多懸崖腳下內(nèi)凹成海灣。

我游玩的第一個(gè)海灘是大托克托克，位于馬里斯雅斯海灘以南，有一間酒吧、一座小小的教堂，然后也就別無他物了。我在托克托克島酒店里的一間平房住了兩晚，這是一間精品酒店，根據(jù)一個(gè)近岸小島命名，遠(yuǎn)眺著一小段沙灘。我以涼拌生海鮮為午餐，并與店主埃迪森聊著天，他以前曾是數(shù)碼媒體公司“美國在線”的法律顧問，卻放棄了自己的專職工作，來到這個(gè)他以前時(shí)常前來度假的地方工作。

午飯過后，我沿著海灘一路前行，走下令人眼花繚亂的長滿青苔的階梯。一位垂釣者正在穿起明蝦，然后投進(jìn)海浪里去釣白姑魚，還有兩個(gè)少年正踏在沖浪板上乘風(fēng)破浪。海洋用力地拍打著沙灘，而我坐在那里，躊躇著是否要下海一游，又唯恐被浪濤撕裂，直到一個(gè)小男孩來到沙灘上，一頭扎進(jìn)翻卷的大浪中。我站起身來，下海游泳去了。

在我的下一站旅途中——在伊利亞貝拉島上，一種頗為怪異的疏離感在等著我。在我酒店的半私人沙灘上，來自圣保羅那些富裕的周末度假者都在狂飲清涼的獅威和波希米亞啤酒。在水上，像碧姬·巴鐸一樣的性感美女們?cè)谕媪獩_浪。所有的男人們都穿著坦加褲——那種在英國于1975年就已過時(shí)的緊身游泳褲。不過我卻毫不擔(dān)心，因?yàn)橄噍^于每個(gè)體態(tài)完美的巴西人來說，附近總有那么三四個(gè)普通人，或者熱心的怪人們：我曾見到一個(gè)男人有著三撮金色的劉海——臉上一撮，每個(gè)乳頭上各一撮。

如果綠色海岸因其絕妙的海灘——以及海灘文化——而出名，那么其曠野更令我贊不絕口。這里的大自然活力四射：棕櫚樹從懸崖峭壁上破土而出，薄霧在密林叢生的谷底上翻卷飄搖，粉紅和橘色的花朵在路邊肆意生長。即便是在田間地頭，青草也是綠意盎然。每一處，叢林都在四散侵襲、滿溢，收復(fù)失地。

在烏巴圖巴——一個(gè)坐落在南回歸線上的小城，我向左轉(zhuǎn)，來到了卡圖卡巴農(nóng)場酒店。我一直以為巴西的地形是一馬平川，但并非如此，在開上馬爾海岸山脈的路上讓人耳膜震動(dòng)，有時(shí)候甚至心跳停拍。在山中薄霧的另一邊，我見到了一片可愛的牧草地，還有農(nóng)場——或曰“農(nóng)莊”——就在其同名村莊前面的一段骯臟的路上。呼吸著微涼的空氣，看著不同的鳥類生活、樹木和文化，還有享用牛肉而不是魚作為餐食，這一切真是很棒——農(nóng)場里依然種植著有機(jī)咖啡，并蒸制卡莎薩甘蔗酒——用甘蔗制作的烈酒，在它面前，巴西國酒卡依冰林雅也黯然失色。

回到海灘上，我駛過了標(biāo)著回歸線的標(biāo)牌，很快就到達(dá)了帕拉蒂市，在那里我避開了正在接吻的情侶，吃著特棒的披薩作為遲到的午餐，然后在街上蹣跚閑逛。

最后一段去往里約的駕駛路程真是狂野而精彩。我已經(jīng)在傾盆大雨中開了五個(gè)小時(shí)的車了，自從駛下了BR101之后，我總覺得自己要迷路了，或是被巴士或卡車撞扁。但我最后終于找到了里約南部高樓林立的巴拉大蒂茹卡城郊區(qū)，經(jīng)過海濱公路，接著開過許多隧道和瘋狂的公路以及一段上升的干線后，我轉(zhuǎn)了個(gè)彎，終于發(fā)現(xiàn)自己正行駛于列布隆海灘邊，接著是伊帕內(nèi)馬區(qū)，再然后就是科帕卡巴納區(qū)精妙絕倫的大西洋彎道。海灘上空無一人，大路上車輛密集擁堵。我覺得自己就像是個(gè)卡里奧卡，即里約本地人。

如果說旅程之始的足球是一種藝術(shù)的話，那么我的旅程則結(jié)束于真正的藝術(shù)——在新卡薩達(dá)洛斯分館和里約美術(shù)館——以及最后一個(gè)足球景點(diǎn)：馬拉卡納體育場。

如果說桑托斯市的體育場較為排外和本地化，那么這座體育場則更為宏偉且國際化，就像里約這個(gè)城市本身。足球賽事和里約這座城市的復(fù)興吸引著數(shù)以百萬計(jì)的游客，但不要忘了圣保羅市——并非因?yàn)樗侨丝谶^密的巨型城市，而是因其空曠的海灘和美麗、新生且深綠的海岸。