全球街頭流行風(fēng)

Style， in a way， functions as a kind of sociocultural GPS， a psychic location finder. You can tell you’re in Paris， of course， because that’s the 1）spire of the Eiffel Tower piercing the sky and there， in the distance， is Notre Dame， with its bell towers and 2）flying buttresses.

Just as confidently you can confirm your presence in the City of Light by the vision of its female residents 3）disporting themselves along cobbled streets in 4）pencil skirts and 5）bank-heist 6）satchels and 7）blouses that require an instruction manual. Where but in Paris do women promenade in six-inch 8）platform-wedge sandals worn as casually as if they were 9）Keds？

Despite the 10）relentless march of globalization， a Parisian look persists. Others may ape it； eventually， they will throw up their hands in defeat.

And while the French are generally （and possibly too much） celebrated for their clever scarf-tying techniques， on anyone but an authentic Parisian a casually knotted kerchief from 11）Hermès can just as easily say Girl Scout troop leader as 12）paragon of chic.

Something mysterious persists in the human spirit， some subtly coded 13）flock mentality. Thus a Parisian who exchanges clothes with a Kansan will likely end up looking French regardless， just as， to an experienced eye， a Milanese gent can never be mistaken for a Roman one， though they share a nationality.

That man with an old wristwatch of modest dimensions， worn on a leather strap： Milanese. The zip-front 14）cashmere sweater； the 15）Moncler 16）puffer worn over a jacket； the 17）loden coat are all giveaways.

In Rome， patterns are boldly contrasting， ties knotted wider， shirt collars more generously expansive—as if to signal that， unlike their uptight northern cousins， Romans know how to chill out.

風(fēng)格，從某種程度上說，有著一種社會文化定位儀的作用，是心靈歸所的探測器。當(dāng)然了，你可以說你正身處巴黎，因?yàn)槟憧匆娔前７茽栬F塔的塔尖刺破天際，而遠(yuǎn)處，就是巴黎圣母院，可以看到其鐘樓和飛扶拱。

而當(dāng)你看到當(dāng)?shù)嘏跃用翊┲U筆裙，挎著天價(jià)坤包，套著一件需要說明書來指導(dǎo)穿著的寬松上衣，在鵝卵石鋪就的街道上自娛自樂時(shí)，你也可以懷著同等的自信，肯定自己正身處這座“光之城”。除了在巴黎，還有哪里的女子能夠在街頭漫步時(shí)將六英寸（約15厘米）高的“恨天高”涼鞋穿出凱茲帆布鞋那般閑適的韻味呢？

盡管全球化的步伐從不停歇，但巴黎人的范兒依舊長存。其他人或許爭相模仿，但最終他們還是會拱手認(rèn)輸。

而當(dāng)大多數(shù)法國人（有可能特別多）在為其聰明的系圍巾技巧而沾沾自喜時(shí)，唯有在地道的巴黎人身上，一條隨意搭系的愛馬仕方巾也能輕易地讓女童子軍領(lǐng)隊(duì)成為高雅的典范。

某種神秘特質(zhì)長存于人類的靈魂之中，某種巧妙地寫成密碼似的從眾心理。因此就算是一個(gè)巴黎人跟一個(gè)美國堪薩斯州人換了衣衫，無論如何到最后，他看起來還是像個(gè)法國人，就像是，在經(jīng)驗(yàn)豐富的人眼里，一位米蘭紳士是絕不會被誤認(rèn)為是羅馬男子的，盡管他們有著相同的國籍。

那個(gè)戴著大小適中的舊腕表，配著皮質(zhì)表帶：米蘭人。前襟拉鏈的開士米羊毛衫、夾克衫外面套的蒙克萊羽絨服，還有那件羅登呢外套，全都是暴露真相的地方。

在羅馬，圖案對比大膽，領(lǐng)帶系得更寬，襯衣領(lǐng)口更敞開——就像是為了表明，不像他們因循守舊的北方表親，羅馬人懂得如何放松。

Roman women signal this tendency by maintaining their tans regardless of the season. Never mind that tanning is universally understood to cause premature aging and cancer. To a Roman， like designer 18）Valentino Garavani， the risks are insignificant compared to the satisfaction of attaining a skin tone somewhere between Sunkist orange and burnt brick on the 19）Pantone scale. And no one can argue that a walnut tan is not perfect for setting off the 20）sorbet colors Romans favor—or for creating a contrast with the thick gold chains they drape at their throats or the gilded 21）manacles they cram onto their wrists.

Among other things， 22）magpie travelers like myself become collectors of sense souvenirs—fragments that， while they seldom add up to anything definitive， are pleasing to revisit and arrange in memory’s 23）vitrine.

Foodies store up recollections of the old-socks perfume of 24）truffles； the 25）voluptuous flesh of an Alphonso mango； the sizzle of a dumpling fried in oil at some Singapore hawker’s stall. Personally， I tend to forget what I’ve eaten the moment the knife and fork are crossed on the plate. In truth and in general， I prefer to eat with my eyes.

羅馬女子無視季節(jié)變化保持古銅色皮膚，也是上述潮流的印證。管你全世界都說曬黑皮膚會導(dǎo)致早衰和癌癥。對于羅馬人來說，例如設(shè)計(jì)師瓦倫蒂諾·加拉瓦尼，相較于將皮膚曬成色卡上的新奇士橙和窯磚之間的某種色彩而得到的滿足感，這些風(fēng)險(xiǎn)根本不足為道。沒人能否認(rèn)，把皮膚曬至胡桃棕，正好突顯了羅馬人最愛的冰沙色系衣飾，也是他們脖子上那粗金鏈或一手華貴金鏈飾物的完美映襯。

除了其他事物外，像我本人這樣的“收集癖”旅行者會變成感官紀(jì)念品的收集者——那些記憶片段，盡管也說不上能造就什么終極結(jié)論，我就愛時(shí)常重溫，整理心中的記憶櫥窗。

食物蘊(yùn)藏著眾多的回憶：松露散發(fā)出的舊襪子似的香味；阿方索芒果的艷麗果肉；某個(gè)新加坡小吃攤上面團(tuán)在油里炸開的咝咝聲。個(gè)人而言，在酒足飯飽刀叉擱在餐盤上的那一刻，我傾向于忘記自己吃下了什么。大致上，事實(shí)上，我更喜歡用自己的雙眼來進(jìn)食。

Traveling， I consume， with equal parts 26）befuddlement and abandon， images like one spotted on a warm spring afternoon on the Tokyo metro. Standing on the platform of the Meiji-jingumae station were two groups. One， a 27）coven of the 28）demented goth 29）Lolitas called Harajuku Girls， was clad in 30）Frankenstein boots and nurse uniforms and had bleached-blonde dreadlocks or else tie-dyed yarn hair clipped into ponytails with real-life 31）dentures. The other， a collection of office workers， was dressed， penguin-style， in 32）Identikit black suits， white shirts， black ties， and black shoes.

It struck me then that there has got to be something strong in the cultural water to produce both Harajuku Girls and salarymen and contrasts of a kind you will observe in Tokyo and no other place on earth.

旅行時(shí)，我會以半迷惑半恣情的心態(tài)來“消化”人物形象，比方說某個(gè)在溫暖的春日午后搶眼地出現(xiàn)在東京地鐵上的人。在明治神宮前站的月臺上站著兩種類型的人群。這一邊，是一群狂熱的哥特式洛麗塔打扮的女孩，被稱為“原宿少女”，她們腳踏弗蘭肯斯坦靴子，身穿護(hù)士服，頭發(fā)染成黃色小辮狀，或是挑染，并用實(shí)用的齒梳夾成馬尾辮。那一邊，是一眾上班族，穿成企鵝模樣：艾登蒂基特黑色西服，白色襯衣，黑色領(lǐng)帶，還有黑色鞋子。

這讓我心頭一顫：在這種文化之中一定有某些強(qiáng)烈的特質(zhì)才會產(chǎn)生出“原宿少女”和工薪族兩種對比鮮明的形象，而這除了在東京，你無法從世界上其他地方見得到。

Meanwhile in Munich， it is no rarity to see people at the opera or strolling through the 33）Englischer Garten dressed in 34）Maria von Trapp–style 35）dirndls or boiled-wool jackets or Trachten hiking hats adorned with $1，000 Gamsbart hat brushes made from the whiskers of Alpine nanny goats.

If Paris is a city of well-turned ankles， Munich is a city of knees.

And Brooklyn is a borough of body modification， the whole of Bushwick can sometimes seem like people who spend their idle hours 36）poring over catalogues of tattoo flash art or surgical supplies. Like Greenwich Village 37）beatniks and San Francisco hippies before them， the hipsters of Brooklyn oblige the random visitor by dressing the part.

And the natives of Los Angeles dress as if to blur to invisibility any boundary between public and private， indoors and out.

與此同時(shí)在慕尼黑，看到人們身穿《音樂之聲》女主角瑪利亞·馮·特拉普式的緊身連衣裙，或濃縮羊毛夾克衫，或頭戴民族登山帽——上面裝飾著價(jià)值1000美元的由阿爾卑斯母山羊胡須制成的麋鹿毛帽刷，去歌劇院或在英國花園流連也不算什么稀奇事。

如果在巴黎這座城市里滿眼皆是優(yōu)雅的腳踝，那么在慕尼黑就滿城盡是美麗的膝蓋了。

而在布魯克林區(qū)里，則能看到對身體的各種修飾，在整個(gè)布什維克區(qū)里有時(shí)候似乎全都是那些把閑暇時(shí)光用于翻看文身藝術(shù)或外科手術(shù)用品目錄的人。就像在其之前的格林威治村披頭族和舊金山嬉皮士一樣，這些布魯克林的時(shí)髦族群使得偶爾造訪的游客也入鄉(xiāng)隨俗起來。

而洛杉磯當(dāng)?shù)鼐用竦囊轮鴦t像是要將一切公開與私人、室內(nèi)與戶外之間的界限模糊至虛無。

If you happen to have been raised in Manhattan at a time when men and women alike considered it appropriate to wear a hat and gloves in town， there is 38）exoticism to be found in the 39）Angeleno habit of wearing sweatpants and shower shoes in almost every setting or sloping around in fur-lined bedroom slippers or wearing a bikini， as 40）Joan Didion once did， to do her grocery shopping at Ralph’s.

Distinctions like these still hold in most of the cities of this country and also of the world. And they produce one of the great and reliable pleasures of travel， a mental 41）Instagram album in which you can click on an image of stork-thin 42）slackers perched on Pike Street in Seattle clad in 43）Doc Martens and 44）snap-brim 45）trilby hats； or of London city types hastening down rainslicked Piccadilly wearing 46）Savile Row suits with hourglass waists； or of flocks of faceless ravens in 47）hijabs 48）alighting at some refrigerated mall in Dubai； or of ruddy San Francisco kite-surfers clad in 49）neoprene and 50）Polar Fleece arrayed like gulls along the shoreline at Crissy Field； or of dignified Malian vendors 51）preening themselves on a corner in Harlem， the hems of their richly patterned and 52）voluminous 53）boubous suddenly lifted by a breeze on Lenox Avenue.

如果你恰巧生長于曼哈頓某個(gè)男男女女皆認(rèn)為在市區(qū)應(yīng)該戴上帽子和手套才合乎禮數(shù)的時(shí)期，那么在洛杉磯，你就能發(fā)現(xiàn)一絲異域風(fēng)情，因?yàn)楫?dāng)?shù)厝藥缀踉谌魏螆龊隙紩┲l(wèi)褲和淋浴鞋，或是趿著毛邊臥室拖鞋四處溜達(dá)，又或是像瓊·迪丹曾經(jīng)做過的那樣，穿著比基尼在勞爾夫超市買菜。

在這個(gè)國家，以及全世界的大部分城市，像這樣的差別依然存在。而正是這些差別為旅行帶來了巨大且可靠的樂趣之一，創(chuàng)造了一個(gè)心靈的Instagram相冊，在其中你可以拍下某個(gè)坐在西雅圖市派克街邊，穿著馬汀鞋、戴著翻沿軟氈帽的精瘦懶漢；或是一副倫敦都市范兒的行人穿著薩爾維街定制西服，挺著纖細(xì)的小腰身，匆匆走過天雨路滑的皮卡迪利街；或是一群群裹著頭巾的無面烏鴉飛至迪拜的某個(gè)冷藏品購物中心；或是臉色紅潤的舊金山風(fēng)箏沖浪者們穿著帶抓絨襯里的防寒橡膠潛水衣，像海鷗一樣沿著克里西菲爾德公園的海岸線排列成行；或是莊嚴(yán)的馬里商販趾高氣揚(yáng)地站在哈勒姆區(qū)的某個(gè)角落，他們那花紋繁復(fù)且寬松的長袍褶邊突然被萊諾克斯大道的清風(fēng)撩起。