“一針一線”總關(guān)情

In Beijing， China， there is a lane called Nanluoguxiang， which is always busy. In the lively lane， there is a quiet small shop， which is the new window of “Qiang Embroidery Assistance Program” opened with the support of Beijing Women’s Federation – a boutique store of the brand “Stitch by Stitch”. Recently， the reporter visited the new window on a warm spring day.

在中國北京，有一條叫做南鑼鼓巷的巷道，終日人流往來穿梭不息。而在這熱鬧喧囂里，有一家靜靜的小店，她就是“羌繡幫扶計劃”在北京市婦聯(lián)支持下打開的新窗口——“一針一線”品牌實體專賣店。近日，記者踏著昂揚的春意探訪了這個新窗口。

The window starts the destiny

that ties people together

彼之窗牖，吾之緣起

The predecessor “Stitch by Stitch” project was the “Qiang Embroidery Assistance Program” launched by One Foundation after the 5?12 earthquake. The responsible person of Beijing “Stitch by Stitch” boutique store Miao Jindi told the reporter “‘Qiang Embroidery Assistance Program’ help the women in severely afflicted area of earthquake realize self-reliance by embroidery in their hometown and reconstruct their homeland. Till now， the program has trained over 8000 local women， given out 1.4 million embroidery works and benefited over 6500 families.”

The severely afflicted area of the 5?12 earthquake is the habitation of Qiang ethnic minority， where covers Wenchuan， Lixian county， and Maoxian County and the Qiang embroidery is a traditional technique mastered by every local woman. “Qiang Embroidery Assistance Program” takes advantage of Qiang embroidery to help local women get employment. With the support of women’s federation of Sichuan Province， party committee and government of Aba Prefecture， and One Foundation of Red Cross， on July 24， 2008， “Aba Prefecture Women Employment Assistance Center of Qiang Embroidery” was established， and the “Qiang Embroidery Assistance Program” was officially launched.

“一針一線”項目的前身是“5·12”汶川大地震后，由壹基金啟動的“羌繡幫扶計劃”。北京“一針一線”實體專賣店的負(fù)責(zé)人苗金弟跟記者介紹說，“‘羌繡幫扶計劃’幫助地震重災(zāi)區(qū)婦女不離鄉(xiāng)不離家，通過繡花自力更生、重建家園。項目實施至今，已培訓(xùn)當(dāng)?shù)剞r(nóng)村婦女8000余人，發(fā)放繡片140萬件，超過6500個家庭從中受益?！?/p>

原來，“5·12”大地震的重災(zāi)區(qū)——汶川、理縣、茂縣是羌族的聚居地，羌繡是當(dāng)?shù)貗D女人人皆會的傳統(tǒng)技能?！扒祭C幫扶計劃”正是利用“羌繡”這門傳統(tǒng)技藝，幫扶災(zāi)區(qū)婦女就地就業(yè)。在四川省婦聯(lián)、阿壩州州委州政府和中國紅十字會“壹基金”支持下，2008年7月24日“阿壩州婦女羌繡就業(yè)幫扶中心”成立，“羌繡幫扶計劃”正式啟動。

However， in the two years afterwards， the orders of the Assistance Center mainly are charity orders of enterprises. In order to realize sustainable development， in 2010， the Assistance Center established the “Stich by Stich” brand， aiming to realize the virtuous cycle of charity assistance and market operation. In the same year， the e-commerce platform of “Stich by Stich” came into operation and the first boutique store was opened in the well-known Kuan and Zhai Alley of Chengdu. Beijing Women’s Federation worked with Sichuan Province Women’s Federation and opened the second boutique store in Beijing to better promote and support traditional culture. On April 15， 2013， the boutique store of “Stich by Stich” started business in Nanluoguxiang Lane of Beijing. The new window of “Qiang Embroidery Assistance Program” officially opened.

然而，在地震后兩年的時間里，幫扶中心的訂單大多以企業(yè)的愛心訂單為主。為了實現(xiàn)可持續(xù)發(fā)展，2010年“幫扶中心”創(chuàng)建了“一針一線”品牌，理想狀態(tài)是能夠?qū)崿F(xiàn)公益幫扶與市場結(jié)合的良性循環(huán)。同年，“一針一線”品牌開通電子商務(wù)平臺，并將第一家實體專賣店落戶到成都著名的寬窄巷子。北京市婦聯(lián)為了更好的推廣和支持傳統(tǒng)文化，2013年和四川省婦聯(lián)合作，將第二家實體專賣店落戶到了北京。2013年4月15號，北京“一針一線”實體專賣店在久負(fù)盛名的南鑼鼓巷開業(yè)，“羌繡幫扶計劃”的新窗口正式對外打開了。

The beauty and warm of warmth of “Stich by Stich”

“一針一線”的美好與溫情

“Qiang is one of the oldest ethnic groups in the big family of Chinese nationalities， and even older than the legendary monarchs Yao， Shun and Yu，” Yao Jindi said proudly. In thousands of years， they have preserved the special ethnic and cultural genes inherited through generations， and the disposition of ancient Qiang culture is reflected in Qiang embroidery.

The worst-hit area of 5·12 earthquake was the habitation of 32，000 people of Qiang ethnic group， and the ancient Qiang culture was severely challenged. Qiang embroidery is the cultural heritage that is most lively， closest to their lives， and best for communicating with the world. Its composition， coloring， and stich technique have strong ethnic characteristics. The profound cultural reserve and wide application space of Qiang culture lay the necessary foundation for Qiang embroidery to blend in the lives of modern people， and Qiang culture is promoted and passed along with this carrier.

“羌族是我們中華民族大家庭中最古老民族之一，甚至連堯舜禹也不及她遠(yuǎn)久?！泵缃鸬懿粺o自豪的對記者說道。千百年來，她們保留了中華民族古老而特有的民族文化基因，這種千年古羌文化的氣韻流淌出來便有了羌繡。

“5·12”汶川大地震的重災(zāi)區(qū)，正是中國32萬羌族兒女的聚居區(qū)，古羌文化面臨著生死存亡的挑戰(zhàn)。而“羌繡”是留存至今最為鮮活生動、與羌人生活最為密切、最能與現(xiàn)實世界對話的羌文化遺產(chǎn)，其構(gòu)圖、配色、針法具有顯著地民族特色。深厚的羌民族文化底蘊和廣泛的運用空間，使羌繡具備了融入現(xiàn)代人生活領(lǐng)域的必要條件，羌文化也借此載體得到了很好地發(fā)揚和傳承。

Miao gladly: “I love the products in our store. If you observe closely， you can feel the positive energy delivered by the designer and embroidery lady! Look at the picture on this purse. There is forest at far and trees in near， and all of them have been cut， and there is also a sad small bird standing in a broken tree， but there are three blossoms in the middle. Our life is also like that! Although their homeland was destroyed by the earthquake， their desire for a better life was lighten up despite sadness. Isn’t it a silver lining?”

As an ancient non-material cultural heritage， the cultural deposit of Qiang culture is embedded in Qiang embroidery in terms of the pattern， coloring， deposition and stich technique. It’s not exaggerated to say that every stitch of Qiang embroidery carries sensation and is directly linked to the hearts of people. Although the earthquake brought them the catastrophic damage， it didn’t ruin their desire and hope for a bright future. They use the Qiang embroidery they are excel at to express their warmth and perseverance.

“我特別喜歡我們店里的產(chǎn)品，仔細(xì)琢磨，你就會發(fā)現(xiàn)設(shè)計師和繡娘所傳達的正能量！”苗金弟頗有些得意說道，“你看這款包上繡的遠(yuǎn)處的樹林、近處的樹木，都是被砍伐過的，還有一只小鳥憂傷地站在斷裂的樹枝上，但是，你看在這中間竟然還有三朵悄然綻放的花兒。我們現(xiàn)實中也不是如此嗎？雖然地震毀壞了她們的家園，但是她們在憂傷過后又重新燃起了對美好生活的向往。這花骨朵兒不正是絕望中的轉(zhuǎn)機與蓬勃的生機嘛！”

作為一種古老的非物質(zhì)文化遺產(chǎn)，無論在圖案、顏色、構(gòu)成還是針法上都有著千年古羌文化的積淀，也流露出羌民族的生活情趣與理想表達。倘若說羌繡是針針帶著情、線線連著心，也一點不為過。雖然地震給她們的家園造成了毀滅性的的破壞，但是絲毫沒有毀壞的是她們對美好未來的向往與期盼。她們用她們所熟稔的羌繡，一針一線的傳達著她們的溫情與堅忍。

Adhere to tradition in the process of innovation

在創(chuàng)新中恪守傳統(tǒng)

Embroidery can be considered as a way for women to express themselves. It used to be closely connected to our lives. However， when we speak of embroidery nowadays， it has already become an artwork and far away from our lives， not to mention Qiang embroidery that is not even in the Four Major Embrodieries of China. “The most challenging problem is marketing， because not a lot of people know the technique of Qiang embroidery，” Miao told the reporter.

However， when sighing for this traditional art， we should also be innovative in the process of transmission. In order to promote Qiang culture and expand the development space of Qiang embroidery， we should also apply the harmonious factors of Qiang embroidery to various sectors of modern life and let Qiang embroidery give the aesthetic feeling and cultural joy to modern life on the basis of respecting the original characteristics of Qiang embroidery.

刺繡可以說是先前女人表達情感的一種方法，它曾經(jīng)與我們的生活如此融合并息息相關(guān)，可如今大多數(shù)時候一提起刺繡，似乎已經(jīng)變成了一件藝術(shù)品，離我們的生活越來越遠(yuǎn)。更何況不在中國傳統(tǒng)四大名繡之列的羌繡？“最大的問題還是推廣，沒有多少人知道羌繡這種繡法技藝。”苗金弟告訴記者說。

然而，在扼腕嘆息之余，現(xiàn)在要做的是在傳承中創(chuàng)新。要發(fā)揚羌繡文化、拓展羌繡發(fā)展空間，就要在充分尊重羌繡本色文化的基礎(chǔ)上，把羌繡文化元素和諧地運用到現(xiàn)代人生活的各個領(lǐng)域，讓羌繡給予現(xiàn)代生活視覺上的美感和文化上的寫意。

Thus， while digging into the technique of traditional Qiang embroidery， “Stich by Stich” also actively explores the value and spirit of traditional culture in modern time. In the implementation of this program， “Stich by Stich” has joined hands with famous designers both home and abroad and well-known design agencies to integrate fashions with traditional Qiang embroidery， which gives Qiang embroidery vigor of the age and brand new cultural essence. The products gradually cover clothes， household items， daily supplies， business supplies and tourist novelties. Qiang embroidery has become a new model to lead fashions and activate traditional techniques.

It’s also worth mentioning that in the market where computer embroidery and machine embroidery run wild， “Stich by Stich” has always stuck to traditional techniques， without slack attitude. All of the embroidery adopt traditional techniques of Qiang embroidery and has been completed stitch by stitch. Miao said， “The essence of Qiang embroidery lies in its essence of handcraft. We would rather give up the order than use machines. Sticking to tradition and quality is the root of ‘Stich by Stich’. Moreover， using machines also lose the meaning of assisting the women of Qiang ethnic group living in mountains who can directly get profits from every sold piece of embroidery. Only by selling products， can we provide more and more orders to the women of Qiang ethnic group living in mountains， and realize the goal of assistance.”

于是在對古老羌繡技藝進行挖掘、整理的同時，“一針一線”積極探尋傳統(tǒng)文化在當(dāng)下的價值與精神，使其煥發(fā)出更鮮活的生命力。在計劃實施的這幾年中，“一針一線”聯(lián)合國內(nèi)外著名的設(shè)計師與知名設(shè)計機構(gòu)，將古老的羌繡技能與時尚完美結(jié)合，為羌繡賦予了時代活力與嶄新的文化內(nèi)涵，產(chǎn)品領(lǐng)域逐步涵蓋服飾、生活用品、日用家居、商務(wù)及旅游用品等系列。成為古老民族傳統(tǒng)技藝時尚活化的創(chuàng)新典范。

值得一提的是，在如今這個電腦繡花和機繡技藝橫行市場的社會，“一針一線”卻在形式創(chuàng)新的同時堅決恪守著傳統(tǒng)技藝，絲毫不敢為了提高產(chǎn)量和效益而懈怠，全部產(chǎn)品的繡花部分皆采用原始的羌繡技藝、手工一針一線繡成。苗金弟說，“羌繡的精髓就在它的手工，我們寧可不做這單生意了，也不用機繡，堅守傳統(tǒng)與質(zhì)量是‘一針一線’品牌的命根子。再者，如果用機器去繡，也失去了最初幫扶的意義。因為每賣出一件產(chǎn)品，山里的羌族婦女都能獲得最直接的利益。只有不斷地賣出產(chǎn)品，才能給更多山里的羌族婦女提供源源不斷的訂單，達到幫扶的目的”。

Postscript:

后記：

While “Stich by Stich” protects and develops the national non-material cultural heritage of “Qiang Embroidery”， it also bears the concept of “teaching someone fishing is better than giving him a fish”. Without changing the original living circumstances of the local people， it develops the production assistance model of “company-base-farmer household”， enabling the women of Qiang ethnic group to get employment in their hometown. The program has provided women in the mountainous areas with 80，000 pieces of embroidery， trained over 5000 talents in embroidery， and offered economic opportunities to more than 8000 local women.

“一針一線”在保護、開發(fā)國家非物質(zhì)文化遺產(chǎn)“羌繡”的同時，秉承“授人魚不如授人漁”的理念，在不改變當(dāng)?shù)厝罕娫猩钚螒B(tài)的情況下，大力發(fā)展“公司-基地-農(nóng)戶”的生產(chǎn)幫扶模式，使羌族婦女不離鄉(xiāng)、不離土即可就業(yè)。羌繡計劃實施幾年來，為災(zāi)后農(nóng)村高半山地區(qū)的婦女發(fā)放繡片80萬件，培訓(xùn)繡娘5000多人，為當(dāng)?shù)?000多名婦女提供了扶貧增收的機會。