弗里達(dá)·賈娜妮：古馳的頂梁柱

By Conny Czymoch

Seeing and being seen is all part of the show， even before the real show gets underway. Fans and fellow designers cant wait to see Frida Gianninis new collection. Guccis 1）catwalk show is a highlight of Milan Fashion Week.

Woman 1： Gucci？ Sexy.

Man 1： I am really excited to see Fridas work and， yeah， I love her.

Giannini joined the 2）long-established 3）Florentine label in 2002. She says she originally wanted to be a rock star， and this influenced her style.

觀賞和被觀賞是節(jié)目的全部，即使真正的表演還未開始。支持者和設(shè)計(jì)師同行都急不可待地想看弗里達(dá)·賈娜妮的新系列。古馳的時(shí)裝表演是米蘭時(shí)裝周的高潮之一。女性1：古馳？性感。男性1：我很期待弗里達(dá)的作品，我很喜歡她。

賈娜妮于2002年加入這歷史悠久的佛羅倫薩品牌。她說原本想做搖滾歌星，這志愿影響了她的風(fēng)格。

Giannini： For example， in the 4）silhouette， which is always very 5）skinny and very 6）rock and roll in a way， in the attitude of the guys， in the styling， in the outfits， in the use of the 7）accessories， because to me， they really complete the outfits very well. And then again， for example， in the music of the fashion show， because there is always this soul of rock and roll which I think is always present in every collection.

Giannins personal style can be seen everywhere， in the most recent menswear collection， and the autumn/winter womenswear collection now on show in Milan. The Gucci logo is 8）discreet， in accordance with Gianninis more subtle approach. But the glamour remains.

Giannini： I think that “glamour” is a word that is a key word for Gucci， and I think its in the DNA of Gucci， but I think that glamour and quality together now， they have to...to come together， to play together.

Guccis reputation began with its elegant bags. Since the middle of the last century， the rich and famous all over the world have favoured the Italian brand. In the 1990s， Gucci also became famous for 9）ready-to-wear fashion. In 2005， Rome-born Giannini took over. Her first collection featured a feminine， romantic look. Some critics dismissed it as 10）lacklustre and 11）banal， but customers loved it.

Giannini： When you start to design a collection， when you start to project a collection， you try always to abstract more than possible yourself but what you are doing. But of course at the end there is much…a lot of your personality that goes in the collection. So maybe for the woman I can recognize more myself in some outfits or for example， in the look of the hair of the models.

Gucci clothes today are a combination of 12）extravagant materials and wearable designs.

Man 2： （voiceover） These sexy 13）vamps， who get out of 14）limousines， in shoes that arent really wearable. Thats changed. I think thats partly because， as a woman， Frida Giannini knows what women wear. Its still very sexy， but not in such a glaring， obvious way.

賈娜妮：比如說，線條方面，一向很纖瘦且有很重的搖滾味道。還有姿態(tài)、風(fēng)格、衣服和配飾的運(yùn)用。因?yàn)樵谖铱磥恚@些搭配起來才能很好地表現(xiàn)全身的裝扮。其次，說到時(shí)裝表演用的音樂，在每一個(gè)系列里面，都有搖滾樂的靈魂。

賈娜妮的個(gè)人風(fēng)格無(wú)處不在，在最近的男裝系列，以及在米蘭展出的秋冬女裝都見得到。古馳的標(biāo)志并不顯眼，這符合賈娜妮的含蓄作風(fēng)，不過她的系列魅力依舊。

賈娜妮：我覺得，對(duì)古馳而言，“魅力”是一個(gè)很重要的特點(diǎn)，是古馳與生俱來的。不過我認(rèn)為要華麗和品質(zhì)并重，兩者必須融合。

古馳以高貴的手袋打響品牌。自上世紀(jì)中期以來，全世界的富豪與名人都鐘愛這個(gè)意大利品牌。而在上世紀(jì)90年代，古馳的時(shí)尚成衣也很出名。2005年，在羅馬出生的賈娜妮接班。她的第一個(gè)系列充滿女性美和浪漫情調(diào)。有人批評(píng)說該系列不但不吸引人而且很平凡，可是顧客喜歡極了。

賈娜妮：開始構(gòu)思和設(shè)計(jì)一個(gè)系列的時(shí)候，要盡量抽離自己，而聚焦于你的系列。不過到了最后，總會(huì)有大量個(gè)人風(fēng)格融入作品里，也許我能在我的女裝里面，或在模特兒的發(fā)型里見到自己。

古馳今日的衣服用料名貴，款式適宜穿著。

男性2：（畫外音）性感美女穿著難以走路的鞋子，從豪華轎車上走下來，那時(shí)代已過去。我認(rèn)為由于賈娜妮身為女性，她很清楚女性會(huì)穿什么。她的系列仍很性感，不過不會(huì)太刺眼且夸張。

Feminine， yet subtle. Thats how most critics describe the collections of Frida Giannini.

Man 3： （via translator） I think its a trend for a designer， who sees herself as an image， to send that onto the catwalk， creating a reality. I think this will be the next big thing. In Italy， shes doing that more than any other woman.

Giannini prefers to remain in the background and has no desire to be worshipped. She has now developed strategies to cope with the immense pressure.

Giannini： I can combine， now Im OK. I was more frustrated in the beginning， because I had to organize my personal life， but now I can do it...I have so many things to do. I love reading， I love cooking， I love to play with my dogs， I love to stay with my family and my dear friends， so I have chance， I still have chance to do things like that. Im not so stressed， because I love my job.

She may not be considered a 15）trendsetter， but Giannini has brought the company success. Despite the economic downturn， Guccis sales are up.

嬌柔，卻含蓄，這是大部分評(píng)論給其系列下的評(píng)語(yǔ)。

男性3：（通過翻譯）這是新趨勢(shì)，設(shè)計(jì)師把自己的形象，投射到時(shí)裝天橋上，使之變成現(xiàn)實(shí)。我相信這是下一個(gè)新潮流。在意大利，她是這方面的代表女性。

賈娜妮喜歡留在幕后，無(wú)意做偶像，她現(xiàn)已有方法應(yīng)付沉重的壓力。

賈娜妮：我現(xiàn)在懂得平衡，我狀態(tài)不錯(cuò)。起初苦惱很多，我要安排我的個(gè)人生活，現(xiàn)在已能應(yīng)付。我有很多事情要做，我喜歡閱讀和烹飪，喜歡跟我的狗狗玩耍，喜歡跟家人和好朋友待在一起。我仍有機(jī)會(huì)做這些事情，我不覺得壓力很大，因?yàn)槲蚁矚g我的工作。

她也許不是潮流的開造者，不過她為公司帶來了成功。在經(jīng)濟(jì)不景氣的情況下，古馳的生意亦蒸蒸日上。

翻譯：豆丁