怒放的漢繡之花Blossoming Han Embroidery

郭海燕Guo Haiyan

20世紀(jì)60年代末的一天，漢口頭道街，一個名叫黃春萍的幼童瞥見奶奶在繡花。只見窗下頭發(fā)花白的奶奶戴著眼鏡，手持繡繃，將細(xì)線拉進(jìn)、抽出。漸漸地，歡快跳躍的長尾鳥、五彩繽紛的蝴蝶就活脫脫地出來了，小春萍屏住呼吸，生怕驚飛那些鳥兒、蝶兒，她的兩只小手還不停撫弄自己身上的棉布衣襟，那是奶奶和媽媽親手縫制的，邊邊角角還繡上了令她喜愛不已的小花小草。這針線勾勒的美妙世界，實在太好看、太神奇了！

從此，黃春萍愛上了刺繡，并與之結(jié)下了不解之緣。In the late 1960s， on Toudao Street in Hankou，a young child named Huang Chunping watchedher grandmother practicing the art of embroidery.With silver hair and glasses， her grandmother heldan embroidery hoop， skillfully weaving thin threadsin and out. Before her eyes， vibrant long-tailed birdsand colorful butterflies came to life. Little Chunpingheld her breath， afraid of disturbing these exquisitecreations. Her tiny hands caressed the cottonfabric of her winter jacket， which was made by hergrandmother and mother and adorned with delicateflowers and grass that she adored. This enchantingworld， crafted with needles and threads， left herutterly spellbound. It was in that magical momentthat Huang Chunping fell in love with embroideryand formed a lifelong bond.

長大一點后，黃春萍才知道，中國有四大名繡——蘇繡、蜀繡、湘繡、粵繡，它們又各有分支，如蘇繡就有蘇州刺繡、南通仿真繡、無錫精微繡、揚(yáng)州刺繡等流派。那么，奶奶和媽媽的繡活兒，又屬何門何派呢？原來它叫漢繡，自成一派。漢繡源于中國古代春秋戰(zhàn)國時的楚繡，有2 500多年歷史，是中國諸多繡種中唯一保持楚文化基因又融匯南北繡法之長的刺繡品類。

As she grew older， Huang Chunping discoveredthat China was home to four renowned embroiderystyles： Suzhou embroidery， Sichuan embroidery，Hunan embroidery， and Canton embroidery. Eachof them had its unique branches， like Suzhouneedlework， Nantongs realistic-style embroidery，Wuxis delicate embroidery， and Yangzhouneedlework. But what style did her grandmotherand mother practice？ It turned out they werepractitioners of Han embroidery， a distinct stylerooted in the ancient Chu embroidery of the Springand Autumn Period and the Warring States Period inChina， with a history spanning 2，500 years. In fact，it is the only embroidery category in China that haspreserved the cultural essence of the Chu Kingdomwhile incorporating the finest techniques from bothnorthern and southern embroidery traditions.

作為一個地方繡種，漢繡以湖北荊州、洪湖、武漢為中心區(qū)域，其特點是采用“平金夾繡”，層層施色；畫面層次分明、繁而不亂，色彩對比強(qiáng)烈，所繡圖案可枝上生花、花上生葉、葉上出枝，光彩奪目，美不勝收。

As a regional style， Han embroidery is centeredaround Jingzhou， Honghu， and Wuhan in HubeiProvince. Its distinctive features include the use of“horizontal interlocking golden threads” to create agradation of colors. The resulting images are clear，intricate but not chaotic， with strong color contrasts.The embroidered patterns can depict flowers growingon branches， leaves sprouting from flowers， andbranches emerging from leaves， creating a dazzlingand breathtaking display of beauty.

黃春萍就在這濃厚的漢繡氛圍里出生、長大。憑著對刺繡的熱愛，這個大眼盈波、極有主見的武漢姑娘，10歲時就拜韓輝和項珍珍兩位漢繡大師為師。學(xué)藝的日子里，她每天苦練12小時以上，手指常被刺破。當(dāng)窗外小伙伴們玩得不亦樂乎時，她在繡架前一坐，從日出繡到日落，從不叫苦。

Huang Chunping was immersed in the richtradition of Han embroidery from a young age.With an unwavering passion for this art form， sheembarked on an apprenticeship under two masters，Han Hui and Xiang Zhenzhen， when she was just10 years old. Her days of learning were marked byrelentless practice， often resulting in pricked fingers.While her peers played outside with joy， HuangChunping devoted herself to her embroidery frame，working from sunrise to sunset without complaint.

真正的漢繡大師除了有一手好針線活兒，還必須會畫畫，懂設(shè)計——這可是刺繡的靈魂?。∮谑?，黃春萍勤奮讀書，考取了武漢一所工藝美術(shù)學(xué)校，畢業(yè)后順利進(jìn)入當(dāng)?shù)匾患依C花廠工作。1986年，21歲的她考取了廣州美術(shù)學(xué)院，攻讀服裝設(shè)計專業(yè)。1990年，她學(xué)成歸來，仍回原單位從事漢繡設(shè)計工作。由于種種原因，2001年，黃春萍工作十多年的繡品公司（其間繡花廠被改制成繡品公司）倒閉了。

Master y of Han embroider y requiresproficiency not only in needlework but alsoin drawing and design， whichare at its core. Thus， HuangChunping diligently pursued her studies and gainedadmission to a school of arts and crafts in Wuhan.After graduating， she joined a local embroideryfactory. In 1986， at the age of 21， she was admittedto the Guangzhou Academy of Fine Arts to major inclothing design. Following her graduation in 1990，she returned to her hometown and resumed her workin Han embroidery design at her original workplace.Unfortunately， in 2001， the factory， where HuangChunping had dedicated over a decade of her life，closed its doors for business （restructuring） reasons.

20世紀(jì)90年代以來，隨著中國經(jīng)濟(jì)的發(fā)展，人們的生活水平不斷提高，服裝市場空前繁榮，漢派服裝也逐漸興起?！拔夷菚r就在漢正街上，很多服裝店的老板要往衣服上刺繡，我就接了很多設(shè)計的活兒。圖案一定下，我就組織工人們?nèi)ゴ汤C，我自己也繡。訂單量有大有小，至于報酬，是根據(jù)衣服上的刺繡圖案來定：圖案復(fù)雜的我們多賺點，簡單的少賺點。那時，為了趕活兒，我常常一繡就是整個通宵。就這樣，這條路一直走到現(xiàn)在……”說起這些，黃春萍的眼里閃著光，那是如絲線般柔韌、能容天地萬物的光。一邊接零活賺錢，一邊照顧家庭，她繼續(xù)用繡繃和繡架來實現(xiàn)自己的繡娘夢。幾年下來，她積攢了數(shù)百幅漢繡作品。

In the 1990s， as Chinas economy flourishedand peoples living standards improved， therewas an unprecedented boom in the clothingmarket and a growing demand for traditionalHan-style attire. Reflecting on those times，Huang Chunping remarked， “Back then， onHanzheng Street， clothing stores were eager toincorporate embroidery into their garments. Itook on numerous design assignments. Afterfinalizing the designs， I would assemble a team todo the embroidery， and I would also personallycontribute. Order sizes varied， and compensationdepended on the intricacy of the embroiderydesign — more complex patterns brought inhigher earnings， while simpler ones earned less.To meet tight deadlines， I often worked throughthe night. That is how my journey in this fieldbegan and continues to this day...” As HuangChunping recounted her experiences， her eyesshone with a light as delicate as silk threads andas encompassing as the world. She supportedher family through piecework， all the whilenurturing her dream of becoming an embroideryartist， using her embroidery hoop and frame astools. Over time， she crafted hundreds of Hanembroidery pieces.

2008年春夏之交，黃春萍開始個人創(chuàng)業(yè)。她開了間漢繡工作室，即日后蜚聲業(yè)內(nèi)外的“錦繡坊”。

Around the summer of 2008， HuangChunping made the decision to establish her ownembroidery business. The studio she foundedwould later become known as the famous “JinxiuFang” （Splendid Workshop）， both within andbeyond the industry.

工作室開張不久，某個中午，黃春萍感覺不對勁，怎么繡架像在動，地面也有點晃??？晚上回到家，打開電視，她驚呆了：四川省汶川縣發(fā)生大地震，7.8級（后震級修訂為里氏8.0級）大地震！電視里的新聞滾動播放，震后場景慘不忍睹：樓房、道路、橋梁和通電、通水、通信設(shè)施等全垮了。黃春萍流著眼淚看新聞，驀地，她的目光被電視上一幀畫面深深吸引：北川中學(xué)倒塌后，一片廢墟上，一面鮮紅的國旗正靜靜飄揚(yáng)在校園的上空……這面旗幟沒倒?。o數(shù)的解放軍、武警部隊官兵晝夜兼程趕赴災(zāi)區(qū)；一批批消防官兵、特警、公安民警等千里馳援；還有全國各地的志愿者、各種支援疾奔汶川……大災(zāi)大難之時，我們的五星紅旗沒倒，民族精神還在！黃春萍的眼睛一亮，學(xué)美術(shù)出身、對畫面敏感的她，一下子來了創(chuàng)作靈感。她渾身熱血沸騰，決定以此為原型，用刺繡來展現(xiàn)中國人民面對一切困難的頑強(qiáng)不屈。

Not long after her studio opened， one afternoon，Huang Chunping sensed something unusual. Theembroidery frame seemed to be moving， and the groundbeneath her feet slightly swayed. When she returnedhome that evening and turned on the television， shewas left in shock： a massive earthquake measuring7.8 on the Richter scale （later revised to 8） had struckWenchuan County， Sichuan Province！ The imagescontinuously scrolled on TV， playing heart-wrenchingscenes post-earthquake： buildings， roads， bridges， and?essential utilities like electricity， water， andcommunication had all crumbled. Tearswelled up in Huang Chunpings eyes asshe watched the news coverage. Suddenly，her eyes were drawn to an image on thetelevision： amidst the ruins of BeichuanMiddle School， a vivid red flag proudlyfluttered in the sky... the flag hadnt fallen！Thousands of members of the PeoplesLiberation Army and armed police forcesrushed to the disaster area day and night;teams of firefighters， special forces， and policeofficers traveled great distances to provideaid; volunteers from across China came to Wenchuan... in the face of this catastrophe， Chinasfive-starred red flag stood tall， and the spirit of the nation persevered！ Huang Chunpings eyeslit up. As an art graduate with a keen visual sense， inspiration struck her instantly. Filled withpassion， she decided to use her embroidery skills to portray the unwavering spirit of the Chinesepeople in the face of adversity.

此時的黃春萍已練就過人的本領(lǐng)。針線不離手，美術(shù)、服裝設(shè)計專業(yè)出身的她，歷經(jīng)30多年實踐，將傳統(tǒng)漢繡與現(xiàn)代書法、繪畫、篆刻、陶瓷等藝術(shù)技法相融合，形成了獨具特色的個人藝術(shù)風(fēng)格：似繡非畫，似畫非繡。她想將自己的絕活兒一股腦兒地展現(xiàn)在這幅震后的國旗作品上。自2008年5月20日起，黃春萍心無旁騖，全身心投入該作品的創(chuàng)作之中。她融合漢繡、蘇繡、湘繡等多種刺繡手法，通過線條粗細(xì)對比，來營造自然、虛實相間的立體感；利用針法排列角度和方向的變化，來呈現(xiàn)刺繡特有的絲光效果。最終，她耗時整整一年，用568萬針、800余種色線，完成了近1平方米的心血之作：《 屹立的國旗》。此作遠(yuǎn)觀真實生動，近看出神入化。見者無不凝神。更令人稱奇的是，作品傳達(dá)的主題“堅強(qiáng)的國度，不倒的民族魂”呼之欲出，無聲勝有聲！ 2009年，《屹立的國旗》毫無懸念地獲得中國民間文藝最高獎“山花獎”，這也是湖北省迄今為止唯一獲此殊榮者。這幅作品被捐獻(xiàn)給汶川縣，被汶川博物館永久珍藏。她本人則被授予“汶川縣榮譽(yù)市民”稱號。

At this point， Huang Chunping had already mastered exceptional embroidery skills.With needles and threads always by her side， she， a graduate in fine arts and fashion design，had accumulated over three decades of practical experience. By blending traditional Chineseembroidery with contemporary techniques such as calligraphy， painting， engraving， andceramics， she had developed a distinct artistic style that was neither purely embroiderynor merely painting. Her goal was to express all her knowledge of embroidery through a?Chinese national flag artwork in the aftermath ofthe earthquake. Starting on May 20， 2008， HuangChunping dedicated herself to this project. Sheincorporated various techniques， including Han，Suzhou， and Hunan embroidery. By adjusting threadthickness， she achieved a natural， three-dimensionaleffect. Fine-tuning the angle and direction ofstitching， she created the unique silk-like shine ofembroidery. After an entire year of relentless effort，she completed her labor of love： “The Resilient Flag，”covering nearly one square meter， consisting of 5.68million stitches， and utilizing over 800 differentthread colors. When viewed from a distance， thework appeared lifelike， and up close， its detailswere awe-inspiring. Anyone who laid eyes on itcouldnt help but be captivated. What was even moreastonishing was the message it conveyed， “A StrongNation， an Indomitable Chinese Spirit，” palpablewithout the need for words. In 2009， “The ResilientFlag” unsurprisingly received the “Shanhua Award，”Chinas highest honor in folk art， making HuangChunping the sole recipient from Hubei Provinceto date. She later donated this artwork to WenchuanCounty， where it now resides permanently in theWenchuan Memorial. As a result of her contribution，Huang Chunping was granted the title of “HonoraryResident of Wenchuan County.”

2008年起，黃春萍開始帶教殘疾人弟子。2010年開始，在殘聯(lián)、婦聯(lián)及其他相關(guān)部門的支持下，她每年開辦培訓(xùn)班，通過“漢繡工廠”“楚鳳起航”“黃鶴工坊”等項目，免費教授廣大婦女特別是殘疾人婦女漢繡技藝。經(jīng)過十余年的運營，她們已逐步實現(xiàn)“設(shè)計—生產(chǎn)—銷售—客戶—市場數(shù)據(jù)反饋—設(shè)計”的閉環(huán)運營模式，十余家門店和生產(chǎn)基地遍布江城，年產(chǎn)值超千萬元，市場地位穩(wěn)固。

Starting in 2008， Huang Chunping embarkedon a journey to teach embroidery to people withdisabilities. By 2010， with the support of organizationssuch as the Disabled Persons Federation and theWomens Federation， she initiated free workshopson the art of Han embroidery. These workshops，titled “Han Embroidery Factory，” “Chu PhoenixTakes Flight，” and the “Yellow Crane Workshop，”placed particular emphasis on empowering women，especially those with disabilities. Over more than adecade， these workshops have successfully establisheda self-sustaining cycle that encompasses design，production， sales， and customer feedback. They haveexpanded to include more than a dozen stores andproduction facilities in Jiangcheng， with an annualoutput value exceeding tens of millions of RMB，firmly establishing their presence in the market.

2019年秋，武漢迎來第七屆世界軍人運動會。這是繼2008年北京奧運會后中國舉辦的規(guī)模最大的國際體育賽事，來自100多個國家的近萬名運動員參賽。為了尋找設(shè)計靈感，將世界軍運文化和長江文化、湖北荊楚文化、武漢城市文化相融合，黃春萍專程前往三峽等地參觀、寫生。最終，她和團(tuán)隊歷時兩年多，創(chuàng)作出50余幅軍運會主題作品?！按舜诬娺\會不僅是國際性的體育盛會，更是世界性的文化交流盛會，我希望將東道主武漢特有的文化內(nèi)涵傳遞給各國友人，為傳承和發(fā)揚(yáng)中華非遺文化作一點貢獻(xiàn)?！秉S春萍做到了，這批漢繡精品果真令各國運動員和嘉賓們驚嘆不已！

In the fall of 2019， Wuhan hosted the 7th CISMMilitary World Games， a momentous internationalsporting event comparable in scale to the 2008Summer Olympics in Beijing. Nearly ten thousandathletes from over 100 countries converged inWuhan for the occasion. Seeking inspiration， HuangChunping traveled to locations like the Three Gorges，where she meticulously observed and sketched thecultural elements of the Military World Games，the rich heritage of Hubei， and the vibrant urbanlife of Wuhan. Over two years， she and her teamcrafted more than 50 artworks with the MilitaryWorld Games theme. “The Military World Gamestranscends being a mere international sporting event;its also a global cultural exchange event. My missionis to convey the cultural essence of Wuhan， the hostcity， to friends from all corners of the world andcontribute to the preservation and dissemination ofChinas intangible cultural heritage，” stated HuangChunping. Indeed， the exquisite Han embroiderymasterpieces she created left athletes and guests fromacross the globe in sheer awe！

自2019年以來，黃春萍還陸續(xù)在湖北十堰房縣、咸寧赤壁等地設(shè)立“中國非遺文化黃春萍漢繡藝術(shù)精準(zhǔn)扶貧基地”“漢繡產(chǎn)業(yè)發(fā)展鄉(xiāng)村振興基地”，并同當(dāng)?shù)亟n立卡戶婦女結(jié)對子，為數(shù)千人提供漢繡技能培訓(xùn)，同時還引領(lǐng)無數(shù)貧困婦女、留守媽媽按市場訂單進(jìn)行創(chuàng)作、生產(chǎn)，幫助她們實現(xiàn)就業(yè)增收。

Since 2019， Huang Chunping has been activelyestablishing the “Huang Chunping Han EmbroideryArt Targeted Poverty Alleviation Base” and the “HanEmbroidery Industry Rural Revitalization Base” inFangxian County in Shiyan City and Chibi Countyin Xianning City. Collaborating with local womenfrom underprivileged households， she has providedHan embroidery training to thousands of individuals.Moreover， she has guided numerous disadvantagedwomen and stay-at-home mothers in designing andmaking market-driven products， helping them secureemployment and increase their income.

2020年春，一場前所未見、突如其來的疫情來襲，武漢“女將”黃春萍再次組織團(tuán)隊，以我心繡眾志成城之心，創(chuàng)作出漢繡筷套、抗疫香囊、抗疫口罩等系列產(chǎn)品，即便力微如斯，亦助家園戰(zhàn)勝疫情。

In the spring of 2020， when an unprecedentedand unexpected pandemic swept through Wuhan，Huang Chunping once again rallied her team todevelop various themed pieces， including Han?embroidery chopstick holders， anti-pandemic sachets， and face masks. Despite havinglimited resources， they exhibited a collective determination to mitigate the pandemicsimpact.

國家級非物質(zhì)文化遺產(chǎn)漢繡制作技藝代表性傳承人，中國民間文藝最高獎“山花獎”得主，汶川縣榮譽(yù)市民…… 一項項榮譽(yù)的背后是汗水、是堅持、是信仰、是責(zé)任，黃春萍用指尖傳承漢繡技藝，穿針引線繪制幸福畫卷，為搶救和保護(hù)、傳承與發(fā)揚(yáng)“楚文化大使”漢繡藝術(shù)，默默奉獻(xiàn)努力著。

Today， Huang Chunping is widely recognized as a representative inheritor of Chinasnational intangible cultural heritage， a recipient of the prestigious Shanhua Award， andan honorary resident of Wenchuan County. Behind each of these honors lies a story ofhard work， unwavering dedication， deep faith， and a strong sense of responsibility. Withher skilled fingertips， Huang Chunping continues to carry forward the legacy of Hanembroidery， weaving a tapestry of happiness with her needles and threads. Seeing Hanembroidery as the Cultural Ambassador of Hubei， she remains committed to preserving，safeguarding， inheriting， and promoting this art form.

供圖/ 郭海燕