靈波詩(shī)眼的海島古井

文/林上軍

舟山小沙潭陳井。The Tanchen Well in Xiaosha, Zhoushan city.

如果說(shuō)大地是一首詩(shī)歌，那么水井便是大地的詩(shī)眼。每一口井背后都有文化的沉淀。

這或許是許多人的記憶 ：在古樸的水井旁，有鄉(xiāng)鄰搓衣，有大樹(shù)掩映；晚上歇工時(shí)分，更有諸多村民前來(lái)?yè)?dān)水洗刷。一汪泉眼，終年不絕。倒影中的藍(lán)天白云，常常被一只水桶攪飛。城市老街的石板路上，不經(jīng)意間就會(huì)瞥見(jiàn)晃動(dòng)著水波的古井。

我的純真童年時(shí)代，就與老家的一口古井結(jié)下了難解之緣，它在我的記憶深處難以抹去。無(wú)論生活怎么變化，心中的那口古井依然是重要的、親切的、溫馨的印記。

水井史就是一部海島史

舟山群島特殊的海島環(huán)境和水資源的先天不足，使得舟山生存史幾乎可以說(shuō)是一部求雨求水史。許多舟山水井，本身就是舟山歷史的經(jīng)歷者和見(jiàn)證者。

據(jù)2016年出版的《舟山水利志》記載，僅舟山本島就有7704口水井。2020年出版的《井里乾坤：舟山的井與井文化》一書(shū)，列舉了舟山各縣區(qū)比較有名且具有一定底蘊(yùn)的水井266口。2021年12月，浙江省水利廳、浙江省文物局聯(lián)合發(fā)出《關(guān)于加強(qiáng)古井水源保護(hù)的通知》，隨后舟山市文物部門(mén)對(duì)舟山古井進(jìn)行調(diào)查摸底，統(tǒng)計(jì)出文物類(lèi)古井104處。

在這些水井中，有一口井的地位非常顯赫，其名叫惠泉，位于舟山城北荷花池灣26—1號(hào)民居對(duì)面。舟山第一本地方志《四明圖經(jīng) · 昌國(guó)》 對(duì)它專(zhuān)門(mén)進(jìn)行記載：“惠泉井，在縣東北一里，深二丈。邑人皆汲取之。嘗有白蛇出現(xiàn)。皇朝端拱二年開(kāi)鑿?！?/p>

縱觀舟山水井名字，或與衙門(mén)有關(guān)，如衙前左井、王衙同井；或與寺廟有關(guān)，與形狀有關(guān)，與井的主人有關(guān)。從井的功能來(lái)分，有吃水井、釀酒井、洗滌井、民間崇信井等。岱山本島有好幾口井的水質(zhì)非常優(yōu)良，周?chē)用褚恢庇镁劸?。舟山長(zhǎng)涂島上有一口兩眼水井，原是一個(gè)水潭，20世紀(jì)70年代，當(dāng)?shù)氐臐O農(nóng)業(yè)隊(duì)和運(yùn)輸社聯(lián)手將其進(jìn)行改造，如今水井北面石墻上尚有一個(gè)紀(jì)念碑。

舟山還有一些水井，形狀雖然普通，但卻很有特殊性。如位于定海岑港里釣山的愛(ài)鄉(xiāng)井，為1991年臺(tái)胞莊興隆先生捐款1000美元所鑿；長(zhǎng)白島上的騰家井，為新加坡僑胞騰寶友夫婦捐款所鑿；坐落于定海小沙街道三毛祖居內(nèi)的鄉(xiāng)愁井，是1989年4月20日三毛回鄉(xiāng)祭祖時(shí)取水帶回臺(tái)灣而得名。

海島市民在蘿卜井取水。A resident fetches water at the Turnip Well.

“無(wú)波古井水，有節(jié)秋竹竿?！惫啪窍让窬劬由⒌囊?jiàn)證者和地方歷史人文及鄉(xiāng)愁的重要載體，維系著城鎮(zhèn)、鄉(xiāng)土文明的根脈。部分古井水源在海島鄉(xiāng)村至今仍作為生活水源的必要補(bǔ)充，承載著先輩日常的生活記憶。在漫漫的歷史長(zhǎng)河中，圍繞水井等淡水資源，舟山群島曾經(jīng)上演過(guò)多少辛酸動(dòng)人、驚心動(dòng)魄的故事。

1988年，舟山嵊泗縣嵊山島久旱無(wú)雨，用水極端困難。11月13日，中國(guó)船舶燃料供應(yīng)公司上海分公司“海供水5號(hào)”輪從上海載1000噸淡水送到嵊山。12月6日，舟山市慰問(wèn)團(tuán)送水抵達(dá)嵊山。嵊山中學(xué)里，有一位外島的母親來(lái)看望讀書(shū)的兒子，她所帶來(lái)的禮物中，有一瓶用玻璃瓶裝的井水。那是母親守候了大半夜，從村里枯竭的井里一點(diǎn)一點(diǎn)刮出來(lái)的井水。兒子留了半瓶，還有半瓶又讓母親帶回去。

在舟山，至少有上萬(wàn)口水井，數(shù)量多、分布廣，大小不一、形態(tài)各異的水井構(gòu)成了舟山特有的自然景觀，也由此催生了與井有關(guān)的各種文化習(xí)俗。水井，在舟山不僅是取水之地、生命之泉，同時(shí)刻鑿著舟山的歷史沿革、文化傳承，甚至是舟山人不屈不撓與自然作斗爭(zhēng)、與列強(qiáng)作斗爭(zhēng)的印記。

一路尋找古井傳奇

初夏時(shí)節(jié)，風(fēng)和日麗，約三五好友，察舟山古井。

我們此行計(jì)劃踏訪(fǎng)舟山本島七口古井，分布于定海石礁、岑港村落、紫薇侯家、小沙街道、五雷山頂、白泉皋泄、臨城邊緣。

頭口井，坐落于石礁一小山坡腳下，走近一看，清澈見(jiàn)底，充滿(mǎn)陽(yáng)光味，真是好久沒(méi)領(lǐng)略到如此令人心動(dòng)的井水。井不深，旁邊正有兩三個(gè)婦女洗刷。她們告訴說(shuō)，這叫蘿卜井。至于井名的來(lái)歷，有如此傳說(shuō)：清朝時(shí)，有一貧窮寡婦在紫薇槐花井洗蘿卜，不小心，蘿卜掉入井中不見(jiàn)了，寡婦見(jiàn)狀，長(zhǎng)呼短嘆，心疼得久久不愿離去。此時(shí)，一位白胡子老翁來(lái)到跟前，對(duì)寡婦說(shuō)，到附近蓮花庵旁的井去，就能找到丟失的蘿卜。寡婦便跑到此庵，找到井潭，發(fā)現(xiàn)丟失的蘿卜果然漂浮其中。于是“蘿卜井”之名便流傳至今。據(jù)說(shuō)這蓮花庵，也有400多年的歷史。

繼續(xù)驅(qū)車(chē)，穿過(guò)岑港司前老街，峰回路轉(zhuǎn)，抵達(dá)岑港方井。方井顧名思義口呈方形，中間一根石條，井圈邊長(zhǎng)約1.6米，橫梁寬0.28米。這口井的奇特之處是旁邊有敬神的香爐，是當(dāng)?shù)卮迕裉д?qǐng)井潭姑娘或做喪事人家念伴取水、焚香點(diǎn)燭時(shí)祈禱所用。井旁還有銘碑，上寫(xiě)：古井滋司前，鄉(xiāng)賢倍珍惜，久飲方井水，延壽百年春……

岑港金水井。The Square Well at Cen’gang Port.

雙橋侯家槐花井，則是因?yàn)榫阅侵昊被?shù)得名?；被?shù)宛如小家碧玉，冠葉郁郁蔥蔥，主干根部到離地一米高的地方，有一奇特生成，右側(cè)均為半輪樹(shù)皮。而槐花井則結(jié)構(gòu)獨(dú)特，一邊筑有憑欄，井道伸展如坑道，井口長(zhǎng)寬約1米左右，往井口一望，喜見(jiàn)里面還有兩三條錦鯉悠然而行。恰好有83歲老婦黃亞花出來(lái)，她身朝那株并不高大但歷史悠久的槐花、眼望著井潭介紹，這井至少有上百年歷史，約20年前才筑起這一憑欄，是為了防止小孩掉到井里，并防止灰塵跑到井內(nèi)。

2018年7月，定海區(qū)政府還在此為井樹(shù)碑。據(jù)記載，這井還與紫微茶人谷內(nèi)的金線(xiàn)龍?zhí)杜嘘P(guān)。黃亞花向我們娓娓道來(lái)：某年這一帶大旱，水井枯竭，侯家一大戶(hù)人家小姐心急如焚。她擅長(zhǎng)繡龍，于是花了七七四十九天繡出一條黃鱗金爪、栩栩如生的金龍。繡完后，小姐將其放在陽(yáng)臺(tái)上，讓金龍吸收日月精華。某日，金龍果然遇水現(xiàn)真身，欲騰空而起。小姐想把它轉(zhuǎn)移至村廟里供奉，不料金龍就地一滾，攜裹小姐朝狹門(mén)方向飛去，最后鉆入一個(gè)深水潭……

古井，大多不但有神奇?zhèn)髡f(shuō)，更有古樹(shù)覆蓋。小沙的潭陳井，一棵大樟樹(shù)，幾乎籠蓋井潭周邊活動(dòng)區(qū)域，井有200多年歷史，老樹(shù)也是歷經(jīng)滄桑。這井有1.4米×2.8米見(jiàn)方，井壁石條疊砌，水源充盈。也許是由于井口太大，又不注意呵護(hù)，同行熟悉者稱(chēng)：水質(zhì)已不如從前。

“西有槐花開(kāi)，東有潭陳井”，我們真切領(lǐng)略了定海西鄉(xiāng)這兩座古井的風(fēng)采、神韻、底蘊(yùn)。

白泉皋泄的老井—童家園水井，也有一棵老柿子樹(shù)遮蓋，下有三口井，一口封起來(lái)了。村民張偉康，年逾古稀，他自豪地對(duì)我們說(shuō)，井約4米深。每次清淤，抽水機(jī)把井水抽干后，一晚上工夫水井就滿(mǎn)了。那些嫁到城里的村婦，每次回老家總要裝些井水回去。

而舟山本島五雷山上的那口水井，雖沒(méi)有單獨(dú)被記載的歷史故事，卻也是源遠(yuǎn)流長(zhǎng)；旁邊茶園相伴，生態(tài)環(huán)保，沁人心扉。

最后一站是臨城邊緣的清泰寺，在此，我們汲取了50多米深處的甘冽山泉。

此次古井踏訪(fǎng)之行，每到一處，大家都用手掬水洗臉明目，大呼清涼、潤(rùn)澤；有的還掬一把喝幾口品咂，感覺(jué)回味綿長(zhǎng)。

一路察井景、品井水，可謂美不勝收。水井邊淘米、洗衣、沖澡，曾是許多人難忘的回憶。如今，人們汲井水不多，一些老井也被填埋，但如果想留住城市的根脈，喚醒城市的鄉(xiāng)愁，不妨讓一汪井泉永遠(yuǎn)汩汩流淌。

保節(jié)殉難正氣凜然

舟山定海城北，古街尚存，古跡依舊。走進(jìn)綠意蔥郁的海山公園北側(cè)，可見(jiàn)一口大井池，池面略呈正方形，池邊立有“姚公殉難處”碑。

端詳古碑，思緒回到1840年7月6日。當(dāng)年鴉片戰(zhàn)爭(zhēng)爆發(fā)，英軍攻陷定海東門(mén)，定海知縣姚懷祥率眾奮起抗敵。

姚懷祥，字斯征，號(hào)履堂，福建閩侯人，舉人出身，歷任象山、龍游和嵊縣知縣，后調(diào)任定海知縣。

當(dāng)時(shí)，他召集城中能戰(zhàn)的軍士等眾人，與定?？偙鴱埑l(fā)一起布防，決定“堅(jiān)守待援”，他一面派人向浙江提督及周?chē)h城求援，又派典吏全福去周邊鄉(xiāng)村招募鄉(xiāng)勇守城。可是，定海的兵力非常之少，民不識(shí)甲，軍不識(shí)炮，那幾尊還是明朝的紅衣大炮，早已是古董般的擺設(shè)，他召集了城中所有能戰(zhàn)、愿戰(zhàn)之人，也不過(guò)區(qū)區(qū)六百人之?dāng)?shù)，兵器不足，只能棍棒農(nóng)具湊合。

在戰(zhàn)斗中，姚懷祥負(fù)傷。危急之際，他脫下衣冠并囑咐隨從轉(zhuǎn)告家屬：我不可保守茲土，死且有罪；汝輩，寇來(lái)勿貽我戚！”再脫下“身上夏布衫與所戴銅板邊眼鏡”交予他的胞弟姚懷銓?zhuān)瑖谠疲骸按宋锏綍r(shí)，便吾盡節(jié)時(shí)也！”英軍步步進(jìn)逼，姚懷祥從容跳入梵宮池自殺死節(jié)，時(shí)年58歲。

梵宮池不遠(yuǎn)處，還有一處舟山市級(jí)文保單位—“義士李先生殉難處”，鐫刻于留方井旁。也是在1840年，英軍入侵那年，定海軍營(yíng)書(shū)記李昌達(dá)誓死不屈，投留方井所在方河殉職，其妻房氏亦效夫繼殉。清同治七年（1868），里人谷蘭亭將方河填塞，建留方井，定海鄉(xiāng)民感念李昌達(dá)夫婦之節(jié)，在方河處掘井三口，題鐫“留方井”。

如今，留方井依然是定海城北部分市民每天洗刷之地，這一桶桶清凌凌的井水，不但洗刷著物質(zhì)污垢，更是浸潤(rùn)著一種精神的洗禮。

Ancient Wells on Zhoushan Islands

By Lin Shangjun

If land is a poem, then water well is its essence. Behind every well there is culture that is worth digging into. My childhood of innocence is closely related to such an ancient well, which, no matter how life changes, holds a significant warm spot in my heart.

The history of Zhoushan islands is pretty much a waterseeking history, due to its unique geographical situation and natural lack of fresh water. Local water wells are thus the witnesses of local history. According topublished in 2016, there are 7,704 water wells on Zhoushan main island alone; 226 culturally famous water wells are listed in, a book published in 2020 on wells and their culture in Zhoushan.

You can always learn something from the wells’ names. Some suggest a relationship with governments, some with temples, some with their shapes, and so on. Speaking from the perspective of functions, there are water-drinking wells, brewing wells, washing wells, folk worshiping wells, etc.

Some of the wells, though ordinarily shaped, carry with them very special meanings. The Aixiang (homtown-loving) Well, for instance, was donated by a Taiwan compatriot named Zhuang Xinglong; the Tengjia (Teng’s family) Well was donated by the Tengs, an overseas Chinese couple living in Singapore; and the Xiangchou (nostalgia) Well inside Sanmao’s Former Residence was so named in 1989, after Sanmao (1943-1991) came back for ancestor worship and took some well water with her on her return to Taiwan.

Ancient wells are the witnesses of how ancestors had lived their lives. They also carry with them the local history and locals’nostalgia, as well as maintain the roots of local culture. Some ancient wells are still used as the supplementing water sources by villagers living on the island.

In 1988, there was a long drought on Shengshan Island in Zhoushan, resulting in a severe fresh water shortage. on November 13, the ship "Sea Water Supply No. 5" of the Shanghai branch of China Ship Fuel Supply Company delivered 1,000 tons of fresh water from Shanghai to Shengshan; on December 6, a delegation from Zhoushan city delivered water to Shengshan. At Shengshan Middle School, there was a mother who came from outside Zhoushan to see her young boy. One of the gifts she brought for her son was a glass bottle of well water — the result of her spending most of the night scraping bit by bit from an almost depleted well of her village. Her son kept half of the precious water and asked his mother to bring back the other half.

西沙角四眼井。Four wells on Xishajiao.

In Zhoushan, there are at least ten thousand wells, which are widely distributed and of different sizes and shapes. Together they constitute the unique natural and cultural landscapes of Zhoushan.

In an early summer day, my friends and I made a plan to visit seven ancient wells in Zhoushan, each located in a different place.

The first well we visited is located at the foot of a small hill. The water is so clear that we could see right through to the bottom, and it is brimming with the flavor of sunshine. The well is not deep, and several women were washing clothes next to it.They told me that it was called Turnip Well. The origin of the well's name could go back to the Qing dynasty (1616-1911): one day there was a poor widow washing a turnip in a well, which accidentally fell into the well and disappeared. At that moment, an old man with a white beard came and told her that she could find the lost turnip in the well near the Lotus Nunnery. The widow then ran to the nunnery and found her lost turnip floating in the said well, which was thus called the Turnip Well — a name passed down to this day.

Next, we drove to the Square Well at the Cen’gang Port.The Square Well, as the name implies, has a square mouth and a stone bar in the middle. It has a perimeter of 1.6 meters and a 0.28-meter-wide beam. The peculiar thing about this well is that a incense burner is placed nearby, which is used by the local villagers for special occasions such as funerals and praying rituals.

Then we went to the Sophora Flower Well at Shuangqiao.The well was so named because it is next to a sophora tree. The Sophora Flower Well has a unique structure with a railing built on one side, and a well hole stretching like a pit. The well mouth is one meter both in length and width, through which you can see two or three koifish swimming leisurely inside. In July 2018,the Dinghai government even made a monument here for the hundred-year-old well.

Most ancient wells are not only associated with legends, but are also guarded with ancient trees. The Tanchen Well in Xiaosha,for instance, is covered with a large camphor tree which almost envelops the entire activity area around the well. The well itself is more than 200 years old, so is the tree. The stone-stacked well is 1.4 meters in length and 2.8 meters in width, and is fully filled with water. Perhaps because the well is too large and has not been taken good care of, its water quality is not as good as before.

The Tongjiayua water well group is also covered by an old persimmon tree and has three wells under it, one of which is sealed up. And the well located besides a tea garden on the Wulei Mountain of the Zhoushan main island, though not historically recorded, also has a long history. Our last stop was Qingtai Temple at the edge of the city; here we drew the sweet mountain spring from a depth of more than 50 meters. At each stop of this wellvisiting trip, we all washed our faces using the cool and refreshing well water, and some of us also took a few sips.

In the north of Dinghai city of Zhoushan, the ancient streets with some ancient relics remain unchanged. Entering the north side of the lush green Haishan Park, you can see a large well pond named Fangong Pond with a slightly square surface and a"Martyring Site of Lord Yao" monument at the side of the pond,which commemorates General Yao’s sacrifice in safeguarding his homeland during the First Opium War in 1840.

Not far from the Fangong Pond, there is a Zhoushan Municipal Cultural Relics Protection Unit — "Martyring Site of Mr. Li". It is next to a well called the Liufang Well, which is in memory of the patriotic sacrifice of Mr. Li and his wife in 1840.

Today, some Dinghai citizens living in the north of the city still go to Liufang Well to do some washing every day. Buckets of crystal clear well water not only wash away the dirt but also dust off people’s soul.

舟山五雷山上的水井。The well on Wulei Mountain, Zhoushan city.