千古興衰獨松關(guān)

陳富強(qiáng)

《水滸傳》對杭宣古道獨松關(guān)及古驛道上的獨松嶺有一段描述：“盧先鋒自從去取獨松關(guān)，那關(guān)兩邊，都是高山，只中間一條路。山上蓋著關(guān)所，關(guān)邊有一株大樹，可高數(shù)十丈，望得諸處皆見。下面盡是叢叢雜雜松樹——收入得董平、張清、周通三人尸骸，葬于關(guān)上?！?/p>

這段描寫，涉及一場慘烈的獨松關(guān)之戰(zhàn)。說來話長，此處暫不展開，簡單說，獨松關(guān)守將是吳升、蔣印、衛(wèi)亨。剛開始時南軍連日下關(guān)交戰(zhàn)，蔣印被林沖蛇矛刺傷，吳升不敢下關(guān)交戰(zhàn)，只在關(guān)上守護(hù)。江南方臘國鎮(zhèn)國大將軍元帥厲天閏率領(lǐng)援軍趕到后，南軍再次出戰(zhàn)，厲天祐和呂方交手，約斗五六十合后，呂方一戟刺死厲天祐，南軍上關(guān)。盧俊義見山嶺險峻，派李忠、周通、歐鵬、鄧飛上山探路。厲天閏要給弟弟報仇，率軍沖殺下關(guān)來。厲天閏殺死了綽號“小霸王”的周通。董平誓言報仇，他瞞著盧俊義，和張清徒步殺上關(guān)去，關(guān)上走下厲天閏、張韜來交戰(zhàn)。厲天閏和董平交手，打了十個回合后，董平因為左手受傷使槍不應(yīng)敗下關(guān)來。厲天閏去追，張清一槍刺向厲天閏，厲天閏躲到松樹后，張清的槍刺在樹上拔不出來，也被厲天閏趁機(jī)刺殺。董平回身去救，結(jié)果被張韜在背后攔腰一刀砍死。

古道入口處所在的杭州余杭百丈鎮(zhèn)半山村為周通立了一尊藝術(shù)雕塑，平面的，有些生銹的鐵板上，是一個古代勇士的影像，影像邊上，則是周通的簡要介紹。這面雕塑在田園上一立，《水滸傳》的故事就在這里活了起來。但凡經(jīng)過之人，無不驚訝，如此偏遠(yuǎn)山村，居然還有這等壯烈之事。

事實上，《水滸傳》中的獨松關(guān)之戰(zhàn)，只不過是多次戰(zhàn)事中的一次。自唐至清，在獨松關(guān)發(fā)生的戰(zhàn)事不下十余次。且說同治三年，太平軍晚期將領(lǐng)列王徐郎、佑王李遠(yuǎn)繼，多次憑借獨松關(guān)與清軍激戰(zhàn)。在距關(guān)五華里有一處地名“大白地”者，據(jù)說就是清軍大敗太平軍的地方，“大白地”原名應(yīng)是“大敗地”。至今還常有人在河灘挖出銹爛的刀、矛、劍、戟等兵器。獨松關(guān)雄踞在獨松嶺上，地形峻險。關(guān)旁原有一棵千年古松，故稱“獨松關(guān)”。明代詩人凌說《獨松冬秀》詩云：“撞破關(guān)門山勢開，樹頭云起喚龍來。擎天老干高千丈，傲雪貞標(biāo)壓眾材。歲久根節(jié)堅作玉，風(fēng)生巖壑響成雷。蒼顏不改渾依舊，萬古相期竹與梅?！?/p>

獨松關(guān)旁的古松已不見，但獨松關(guān)古驛道半山村入口處，卻有一棵杉樹直刺蒼天，高約五六十米，主干筆直，沒有橫生枝節(jié)，只見樹葉密集依附于主干，跟著向上生長。這棵杉樹，具體年份不明，但看上去，也有三五百年之齡，被村民奉為“杉樹王”，仿佛一個旗桿，立于杭宣古道入口處，遠(yuǎn)遠(yuǎn)望去，與天空融為一體，頗有些蒼涼與孤獨。村民在樹下建了廟，雖然不大，但足以點上一炷香，擱得下風(fēng)調(diào)雨順，國泰民安。

半山村是余杭百丈鎮(zhèn)的一個小山村，原住民不多，從前以竹業(yè)為生，后又植茶葉。小村兩側(cè)為崇山峻嶺，多以竹林覆蓋，遠(yuǎn)眺郁郁蔥蔥，無邊的蒼茫綠意。村民大多富庶，紛紛建起別墅。我家孩子幼兒園的老師小王，就出生在半山村。王老師家是村里較早建造別墅的，相比周邊人家后建的別墅，顯得稍許遜色，但在我看來，已經(jīng)十分闊綽。王老師家難得保留了柴火大灶，炒出的菜肴特別香，王老師說，如果以鐵鍋煮飯，則有鍋巴可吃，在飯快熟時，在鍋中央置一只湯碗，可留得一碗飯湯。米湯下鍋巴，是她們姐妹幾個最愛的美食。

在王老師家吃了一頓柴火飽飯。餐桌上，除了魚肉，蔬菜大多是自己種的，有南瓜、冬瓜、絲瓜、土豆、秋葵和辣椒等。王爸邀我喝一杯自己配制的白酒，我婉拒了。見我不喝，他自飲一杯，說，當(dāng)年獨松關(guān)上好漢，出征前，可都是要喝上一杯壯膽的。王爸說，門外的山楂熟了，想吃，盡管摘。那株山楂，我一來就看到了，一串一串紅果掛枝頭，沉甸甸的，十分好看。在山楂樹旁，還有一株造型如金字塔的，滿樹都是成串小果子的枸骨，民間俗稱老虎刺，葉子形似虎掌，帶刺。樹上的果子還青著，王爸說，再過一段時間，果子就全紅了，會非常漂亮，顯得喜慶。但我透過這些漸紅的果子，仿佛隱隱看到，獨松古驛道上，金戈鐵馬，連天的烽火。

飯后，冒細(xì)雨徒步去杭宣古道，杭宣古道也稱獨松古驛道，始建于唐。杭宣古道在《元和郡縣圖志》中有記載，是指杭州西北至宣州496公里。在余杭境內(nèi)，自余杭鎮(zhèn)向北行，經(jīng)長樂、雙溪、黃湖、百丈至獨松關(guān)，長百余里，出境后經(jīng)安吉至安徽宣城。出獨松關(guān)后為山間小道，可直達(dá)南京。有野史載，北宋宰相王安石從南京到杭州，走的就是獨松嶺古道到釜托寺。釜托寺還在，就在半山村地盤上。另有一說，明朝朱元璋定都南京，也曾經(jīng)過獨松關(guān)翻越獨松嶺古驛道。

古道狹窄，多以大小不等的石塊或鵝卵石鋪成。余杭境內(nèi)百余里古道，大多已損，尋不到蹤跡，唯有半山村境內(nèi)，尚存1500米左右，保存完好。過茅草覆蓋的竹亭，進(jìn)入古道，野草幾乎蓋住路面，古道兩旁，野花朵朵，開得十分繁密，我粗略數(shù)了一下，總有十幾個品種，在細(xì)雨中爭奇斗艷。也有蒼耳、紫蘇、狼尾巴、茅草等，不由令我想起《送別》中的幾句：長亭外，古道邊，芳草碧連天。

行數(shù)百米，可見一座石橋架于溪上。這座小橋，有名曰寶昌，已越千年。橋的這頭是余杭，橋的另一頭則是安吉。再繼續(xù)往前，則可至獨松關(guān)。獨松關(guān)與百丈幽嶺關(guān)、鐵嶺關(guān)合稱“獨松三關(guān)”，是南宋京城臨安北側(cè)的主要屏障，從地理位置上來看，只要守住了獨松關(guān)，也就擋住了杭州北來的兵患，因此，獨松關(guān)是古時兵家必爭之地。史上一戰(zhàn)，可以證明獨松關(guān)之險。清咸豐十年（1860），清軍進(jìn)攻太平天國天京（今江蘇南京），太平天國將領(lǐng)李秀成由杭州借獨松捷徑，迅速北上，與各路太平軍一起大破清軍，遂解天京之圍。

從杭州駕車去安吉往返，如果走省道，途中會經(jīng)過幽嶺隧道，隧道之上，即為幽嶺關(guān)所在山嶺。每次導(dǎo)航提示前方幽嶺隧道，我都會產(chǎn)生一種莫名的恐慌感，下意識放慢車速，仿佛行至幽嶺關(guān)，就可見古戰(zhàn)場上鼓角爭鳴、狼煙四起。

在安吉，從友人處討得一本清光緒版《孝豐縣志》，對獨松關(guān)有簡潔而清晰的描寫：“獨松關(guān)在獨松嶺上，自天目而北，重崗結(jié)澗，回環(huán)數(shù)百里，獨松嶺杰峙其中。嶺路險狹，東南側(cè)直走臨安，西北則道安吉趨廣德，為江浙境步騎爭逐之交?！?/p>

我站在獨松關(guān)前，只見關(guān)墻悉數(shù)由大石砌成。據(jù)安吉的縣志上說，關(guān)墻之上原有箭樓，關(guān)內(nèi)有兵營6間。關(guān)墻長約60米，厚10米。關(guān)墻橫跨湍急的獨松澗，銜聯(lián)左右兩條高峻的山脈。沿山澗右側(cè)是一條陡峭的羊腸小道，直通關(guān)門。關(guān)門如洞，深十米，高約三米，寬不足一米，只能容一人通過。洞頂中部開有兩米長、一米寬的天窗。此天窗極有創(chuàng)意，平時可給關(guān)洞內(nèi)透光，戰(zhàn)時敵人進(jìn)入關(guān)洞內(nèi)，守兵可從頭頂上襲擊之，使敵人無處躲避，大有“一夫當(dāng)關(guān)，萬夫莫開”之勢。

歷經(jīng)千年，獨松關(guān)雖已無當(dāng)年全貌，但雄關(guān)之勢依然不減。關(guān)隘高踞獨松嶺上，依舊是關(guān)險道峻，崎嶇難行，坡上則松竹繁茂，鳥鳴鶯啼。而關(guān)下，是竹松參天，翳天蔽日，竹海洶涌，松濤陣陣，有凄神寒骨、驚心動魄之感。由于獨松關(guān)地處安吉與余杭地界，安吉又素以竹子為主要經(jīng)濟(jì)作物，一入安吉境內(nèi)，漫山遍野，都是望不斷的竹林，風(fēng)過去，竹林搖曳，似海洋一般的遼闊與澎湃。

王老師從小在半山村長大，對古驛道再熟悉不過，她帶著我們一路穿行在古道上，關(guān)于每一幢建筑、每一棵樹木、每一條溪流、每一朵野花，都能說出它們的故事。比如她指著村口的杉樹說，這棵杉樹是半山村的標(biāo)志，等同于獨松關(guān)的那棵松樹，她每次回家遠(yuǎn)遠(yuǎn)地見到這棵杉樹時，身體內(nèi)裝滿的城市喧囂，瞬間就能安靜下來。她把這棵杉樹看作靈魂的棲息地，無論走多遠(yuǎn)，它都會站在村口眺望著自己。

在王老師家門前，有一個池塘，半畝見方，池塘里的荷葉已漸漸枯萎，但依舊可想象夏天的繁華。王老師告訴我們，這里原本是廢棄的水田，她父親種了些荷花，一年一年生長，竟也有接天蓮葉的模樣?！懊利愢l(xiāng)村”整治時，村里索性將池塘圍了起來，塘邊修了游步道，池塘的另一端，是一個面積不大的湖，分隔池塘與湖泊的，是一座亭子，穿過亭子，就可以上山，這里已成為村口一景。而我們正是從荷塘邊的步道，走向獨松古驛道的。

從前的車馬都慢，從杭州去安徽宣城，得走好多天。而現(xiàn)在，蜿蜒的公路，將半山村與國道相連，這個藏在深山的小村落，曾經(jīng)是杭宣古道的一個驛站，它見證過獨松關(guān)的烽火，時隔千年，依舊成為古道的守護(hù)者，寧靜，與世無爭，一年一年，度它的山中日月。

在獨松關(guān)口的驛站，立有一碑。細(xì)看，正面碑上，有一些文字，雖已被日月磨損得看不清楚了，但這是古驛道的重要物證，輕慢不得。村民也知道碑的重要，小心呵護(hù)，碑上建亭，既可讓游人小憩，也可為碑擋風(fēng)遮雨。我離開石碑，站在村口回頭望，發(fā)現(xiàn)石碑與杉樹恰好相對，它們把守山河古道，雖不語，卻已滄海桑田。

Dusongguan Pass： Witness to History

By Chen Fuqiang

The entrance to the Hang-Xuan （Hangzhou-Xuancheng） Ancient Trail is located in the Banshan village， Baizhang township in Hangzhous Yuhang district. An art sculpture was erected on its side in memory of Zhou Tong， a warrior who died in a bloody battle depicted by Water Margin， one of Chinas “Four Great Classic Novels”. On this flat statue， an image of Zhou is shown on its somewhat rusted iron plate， with a brief introduction of Zhou next to the image. The very existence of the sculpture in the play brings the story from Water Margin to life. Everyone passing by is surprised that a magnificent historical story like this happened in such a remote mountain village.

In fact， the battle mentioned by Water Margin is only one of many： no fewer than a dozen battles took place at the Dusongguan Pass between the Tang dynasty （618-907） and the Qing dynasty （1616-1911）.

The ancient pine next to the Dusongguan Pass （“Dusong” literally means “solitary pine” and “guan” is the generic name for “pass”） is gone， but at the entrance of the Banshan village on the ancient post road leading to the Dusongguan Pass there is a fir sticking straight to the sky， about 50 to 60 meters tall. The fir only has straight branches and its leaves cling densely to the main trunk， growing upward. The exact age of this tree is unknown， but it seems that it is at least three to five hundred years old and is worshiped by the villagers as the “King of Fir”. Looked from afar， it stands tall like a flagpole at the entrance of the Hang-Xuan Ancient Trail， melting into the sky in desolation. The villagers have built a temple under the tree， not a big one but enough for them to light a stick of incense and wish for favorable weather， peace and prosperity.

The Banshan village is a small mountain village. The local inhabitants are small in number， living off the bamboo industry at first， then the tea industry. The village has sublime mountains on both sides， which are mostly covered with bamboo forests of boundless lush green. Most of the villagers are affluent， dwelling in self-built villas.

My childs kindergarten teacher， Miss Wang， was born in the village. Her family is among the earliest to build their own villa， which， compared to their neighbors later jobs， is a little humble. But in my opinion it is just as magnificent. Her family sill keeps in their house a rare firewood stove， with which they can make specially delicious stir-fried dishes. Miss Wang said that if the rice is cooked in an iron pot， there would be rice crust for them to eat， and also a bowl of rice soup — if you place a soup bowl in the center of the pot when the rice is almost cooked. Rice crust with rice soup is her and her sisters favorite.

We ate a hearty meal at Miss Wangs home， and most of the vegetables we had were grown by themselves， including pumpkins， winter melons， loofah， potatoes， okra and peppers.

After lunch， we hiked in the drizzle to the Hang-Xuan Ancient Trail， which is also known as the Dusong Ancient Post Road， which was first built in the Tang dynasty. Within Yuhang it goes northward through Changle， Shuangxi， Huanghu， Baizhang to the Dusongguan Pass， stretching for more than 100 li or 50 kilometers， and then goes out of Yuhang through Anji county in Huzhou city to Xuancheng in neighboring Anhui province. From the Dusongguan Pass onward， it is a mountain trail that leads directly to Nanjing.

The ancient path is narrow， largely paved with rocks or cobblestones of different sizes. The part of hundred-odd li in Yuhang is mostly damaged with no traces to be found， except for in the Banshan village， where a section about 1，500 meters remains intact. Going across the thatch-covered bamboo pavilion into the ancient path， you can find the surface is almost covered by weeds， with wild flowers blooming very densely on both sides.

Walking a few hundred meters further， you can see a stone bridge over the stream. This small bridge named Baochang has been there since over a thousand years ago. This end of the bridge is Yuhang， and the other end is Anji， which makes the bridge the boundary between the two places. If you walk on， you can reach the Dusongguan Pass， which， together with the Youlingguan Pass and the Tielingguan Pass， is called “the Three Passes at Dusong” — the main barrier on the north side of Linan （present-day Hangzhou）， the capital during the Southern Song dynasty （1127-1279）.

Driving from Hangzhou to Anji and back， if you take the provincial highway， you will pass through the Youling Tunnel， above which is the mountain range of the Youlingguan Pass. Every time the car navigation shows that the Yuling Tunnel is ahead， I will feel a sense of inexplicable panic and subconsciously slow the car down， as if at the Youlingguan Pass the scene of drumbeats， horns and beacon fire on the ancient battlefield were always there to be seen.

I stood in front of the Dusongguan Pass， and saw that the walls were all made of boulders. After a thousand years， the Dusongguan Pass no longer looks the same as in the past， but its majesty still remains. The pass is perched high on the Dusongling Range， a dangerous， rugged and difficult road to travel， and on the slope grow towering pines and bamboos accompanied by chirping birds. And under the pass， the sky is heavily shaded by pines and bamboos， giving a sense of chilling thrill. The Dusongguan Pass is located at the convergence of Anji and Yuhan， and Anji has bamboos as its main cash crop. Therefore， the moment you enter Anji， your view will be filled with bamboo forests widely across mountains， which tend to sway gently in the wind like a vast ocean.

In the past， carriages and horses were very slow， and it took many days to walk from Hangzhou to Xuancheng. Now， the winding highway connects the Banshan village with the national highway. This small village hidden deep in the mountains was once a post station of the ancient road of Hangzhou-Xuancheng. After a thousand years， it still is the guardian of the ancient road， quietly and peacefully spending its years in the mountains.

At the post station at Dusongguan Pass， there is a monument. If you look closely， you will find something written on it， almost indiscernible. But still， it is an important relic of the ancient road. Fully aware of this， villagers have taken good care of it： they built a pavilion to shelter the monument， both to allow visitors to take a rest there and to protect it from wind and rain.

Leaving the monument， I stood at the entrance of the village and looked back. The monument and the fir are exactly opposite to each other， guarding the ancient road silently against the changing of time.