伊麗莎白女王奧運(yùn)匹克公園十年

文/羅里·沃爾什 譯/盧銘 審訂/石小軍

Compared with the era of the dinosaurs or the life span1span 時(shí)間跨度，一段時(shí)間。of a giant sequoia, a decade isn’t a long time.Yet ten years ago can feel like ancient history.July 2022 marks ten years since London hosted the Olympic and Paralympic Games.From the ‘Isles of Wonder’ opening ceremony to Team GB’s record medal haul by the end, London 2012 captured the public imagination.Perhaps it still haunts us.Post-Brexit,Covid, Black Lives Matter and #MeToo,that ‘golden summer’ almost shimmers like a mirage from another age.

與漫長的恐龍時(shí)代或參天紅杉的壽命相比，十年只算得上是彈指一揮間。然而現(xiàn)在，談及十年前，卻讓人感覺仿佛是在回溯古代歷史。2022 年7 月是倫敦主辦奧運(yùn)會(huì)和殘奧會(huì)十周年。從“奇跡之島”的開幕式，到最后英國隊(duì)創(chuàng)紀(jì)錄的獎(jiǎng)牌總數(shù)，2012年倫敦奧運(yùn)會(huì)引發(fā)了公眾的無限遐想。也許，時(shí)至今日它仍縈繞于我們心頭。英國脫歐、新冠疫情暴發(fā)、黑人人權(quán)運(yùn)動(dòng)“黑人的命也是命”和反性騷擾運(yùn)動(dòng)“我也是”相繼發(fā)起——經(jīng)歷這一切之后，那個(gè)“金色夏天”微光閃爍，仿佛是另一個(gè)時(shí)代的海市蜃樓。

2‘The Games gave us a sense of pride and we’re not good at being proud of ourselves in Britain,’ says Dr Helen Rawling, this trail’s creator.Rawling’s trail loops around the southern end of what is now the Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park in Stratford.The route explores the park’s ongoing development and wider questions around regeneration.Rawling wrote it as a cultural geographer and a local resident.‘I moved to this area in 2006 so I’ve seen how much the site has changed, before and after the Games.’

2公園散步道的創(chuàng)建者海倫·羅林博士說：“奧運(yùn)會(huì)給我們帶來了自豪感，在英國，我們并不容易找到這種感覺。”伊麗莎白女王奧林匹克公園坐落于斯特拉特福德，而羅林的步道如今就環(huán)繞著公園的南端。這條路線旨在探索公園當(dāng)下的發(fā)展及更廣泛的生態(tài)重建問題。羅林以文化地理學(xué)者和當(dāng)?shù)鼐用竦碾p重身份撰文介紹過它：“我在2006 年就搬到了這個(gè)地區(qū)，所以我目睹了這個(gè)地方在奧運(yùn)會(huì)前后所發(fā)生的變化。”

3We are sitting on a bench in a plaza outside a department store.Westfield Stratford City is one of the largest shopping centres in the UK.Either side of us are rows of tall, glass-fronted shops.Footsteps echo on polished floors, muzak2muzak（酒吧、飯店等的）助興背景音樂。wafts through the air.It seems an incongruous place to start but Rawling explains: ‘During the Games around 180,000 people came to the Olympic Park every day.About 70 per cent of them were funnelled3funnel 匯集。this way, through Westfield.’

3我們坐在一家百貨公司外面廣場的長椅上。西田斯特拉特福德城是英國最大的購物中心之一。我們兩邊都是一排排高大的玻璃幕墻商店。锃光瓦亮的地板上回響著腳步聲，空氣中飄蕩著各式背景音樂。步道由這里起步似乎并不合適，但羅林解釋說：“奧運(yùn)會(huì)期間，每天有大約18 萬人來到奧林匹克公園。其中約有70%的人是經(jīng)由西田這條路匯聚而來?！?/p>

4我們面前是一座弓形的巨型天橋。天橋兩側(cè)至少12 英尺高的有色玻璃幕墻猶如巨大的昆蟲翅膀?！八固乩馗５禄疖囌镜闹甘九埔龑?dǎo)人們走上這座橋，遠(yuǎn)離老斯特福德中心?！绷_林說道。新游客為奧運(yùn)而來時(shí)，老城區(qū)隱入幕后。由于西田就在家門口，羅林懷疑大部分當(dāng)?shù)厝硕疾惶ノ鲄^(qū)了。就像前幾十年金絲雀碼頭的發(fā)展一樣，奧運(yùn)會(huì)已經(jīng)將首都進(jìn)一步向東轉(zhuǎn)移了。

4Arching towards us is a huge footbridge.Tinted glass walls, at least 12 feet high, flank4flank 位于兩側(cè)。it like giant insect wings.‘Signs at Stratford railway station lead people onto that bridge, away from the old Stratford Centre,’ says Rawling.When new visitors arrived for the Olympics, older areas were left behind.With Westfield on their doorstep,Rawling suspects many locals rarely visit the West End.Like Canary Wharf in preceding decades, the Olympics have shifted the capital further east.

5穿過西田商業(yè)區(qū)，步道直入奧林匹克公園。官方網(wǎng)站將其描述為“一個(gè)世界領(lǐng)先的體育、娛樂、文化、教育和休閑之地”。在這個(gè)溫暖的5月清晨，湛藍(lán)天空下，地標(biāo)性場館橫跨眼前，猶如一張全景明信片。沿中軸線一直向前，就是前奧林匹克體育場（現(xiàn)在的倫敦體育場，西漢姆聯(lián)隊(duì)主場）。左側(cè)，通體銹紅狂野的軌道塔俯瞰著別具一格的倫敦水上運(yùn)動(dòng)中心。右邊，則讓人料想不及：是一個(gè)大型建筑工地。大批建筑起重機(jī)在上方忽隱忽現(xiàn)，到處回蕩著電動(dòng)器械的當(dāng)啷聲和呼嘯聲。重建需要不短的時(shí)間。

5After passing through Westfield, the trail enters the Olympic Park itself.The official website describes it as ‘a(chǎn) worldleading destination for sport, entertainment, culture, education and relaxation’.On this warm May morning, with an azure blue sky, landmark venues span the scene in a panoramic5panoramic 全景的，遠(yuǎn)景的。postcard.The former Olympic Stadium (now the London Stadium, home ground of West Ham United), is straight ahead along an axial view.To the left, the red scribble of the Orbit Tower overlooks the distinctive London Aquatics Centre.To the right is a surprise: a large building site.While a flock of construction cranes loom above, the air echoes with the clangs6clang 叮當(dāng)聲。and wails7wail 呼嘯聲。of power tools.Regeneration is a long-term process.

6Outside the London Stadium, a couple of pre-schoolers frolic in the fountains.‘This place will be packed tomorrow,’ Rawling comments.It’s a Friday.Football? ‘No, just people bringing their kids for a day out.’ Rawling and her young family live in Bow, a 20-minute cycle ride away.‘We visit regularly; it’s safe, clean, great for families.The park was a vital open space during lockdown.’

6倫敦體育場外，幾個(gè)學(xué)齡前兒童在噴泉中嬉戲?！斑@個(gè)地方明天將會(huì)擠滿人?！绷_林評(píng)論道。今天是星期五。明天有足球賽？“不是，人們就是帶著孩子來玩上一天?！绷_林的孩子還小，一家人住在鮑區(qū)，騎車20 分鐘就能到這里。“我們經(jīng)常來。這里安全、干凈，很適合家庭游玩。疫情封控期間，這個(gè)公園是一個(gè)重要的開放空間?！?/p>

7Humans aren’t the only beneficiaries.A zigzag path through young trees leads down to the City Mill River.Rawling often spots cormorants here, drying their wings in the sun.Pitting the concrete bank are a series of notches and holes.We glimpse sand martins popping in and out.The holes are industrial remnants.The City Mill River is one of various waterways that braid the Olympic Park.Many are tributaries8tributary 支流。and man-made diversions of the River Lea.By the 19th century, they were harnessed9harness 利用。to make silk, dyes, porcelain, plastics, chemicals and matches.When these industries declined, the polluted waterways were abandoned.‘One of the park’s big successes was restoring and opening them up,’ says Rawling.‘They are also incorporated into the park really well,which helps increase biodiversity.’ The rejuvenated River Lea supports 300,000 wetland plants, which in turn encourages wildlife.The London Legacy Development Corporation (LLDC) records that the park’s residents include 13,000 trees,60 bird species and 250 types of insects.

7人類并不是唯一的受益者。一條“之”字形小路在幼樹叢中穿過，通向城市磨坊河。羅林經(jīng)常在這里看到鸕鶿在陽光下晾曬翅膀?；炷梁影哆呌幸涣辛邪疾酆投纯?，能瞥見灰沙燕跳進(jìn)跳出。這些洞是工業(yè)遺留物。城市磨坊河是貫穿奧林匹克公園的眾多水道之一。很多水道是利河的支流和人工引流渠。到19 世紀(jì)，這些水道的河水被用來制造絲綢、染料、瓷器、塑料、化學(xué)品和火柴。當(dāng)這些行業(yè)衰落時(shí)，被污染的水道便被遺棄了?！肮珗@的巨大成就之一就是恢復(fù)和開放了它們?！绷_林說，“它們也很好融入了公園，這有助于增加生物多樣性。”重新煥發(fā)活力的利河孕育了30 萬株濕地植物，而這些植物又吸引了野生動(dòng)物。根據(jù)倫敦奧運(yùn)遺產(chǎn)開發(fā)公司的記錄，公園里生長棲息的動(dòng)植物包括13000 棵樹、60 種鳥類和250 種昆蟲。

8Many of the plants and flowers are plotted in the outlines of former factories.This thoughtful touch in the landscaping reflects a lost landscape.‘To create the Olympic Park, over 200 businesses were forced to move,’ Rawling explains.‘Around 400 properties,including people’s houses, were demolished under compulsory purchase orders.Two Travellers’ sites and a historic community allotment were cleared.Not everyone wanted to leave.There was a lot of protest and resentment.’

8許多植物和花卉的種植是按照以前這里各個(gè)工廠的輪廓規(guī)劃的。景觀設(shè)計(jì)中的這一舉措是經(jīng)過深思熟慮的，可以反映失落的舊日風(fēng)貌?！盀榱嘶I建奧林匹克公園，超過200 家企業(yè)被迫搬遷。”羅林解釋說，“大約400 處房產(chǎn)，包括人們的住宅，依據(jù)強(qiáng)制購買令而被拆除。兩個(gè)旅友驛站和一個(gè)歷史悠久的社區(qū)配給站也被清除了。并不是每個(gè)人都愿意離開。有很多抗議和怨恨的聲音?！?/p>

9Housing remains a contentious issue.The view from Loop Road takes in recent developments, including Icona Point and the Stratford Halo Tower10伊科娜大樓和斯特拉特福德光環(huán)大廈，倫敦地標(biāo)性商住一體開發(fā)項(xiàng)目，極具特色，竣工于2012 倫敦奧運(yùn)會(huì)前后，兩者都可俯瞰奧林匹克公園。.Rawling continues, ‘The Olympic Development Authority was required to provide 9,000 new homes on the site.A third had to be“affordable” social housing.This hasn’t really materialised yet.Only a fraction of the new homes has been completed.Plus, properties that developers class as affordable homes are often too expensive for many locals to buy.’

9住房建設(shè)一直是個(gè)爭論不休的話題。沿著公園散步道，可以看到新近的開發(fā)項(xiàng)目，包括伊科娜大樓和斯特拉特福德光環(huán)大廈。羅林繼續(xù)介紹道：“按規(guī)定，奧林匹克發(fā)展局被要求在該地區(qū)提供9000 套新住宅，其中三分之一必須是‘經(jīng)濟(jì)適用的’社會(huì)性住房。這一點(diǎn)還沒有真正實(shí)現(xiàn)。只有少部分新住宅已經(jīng)完工。此外，開發(fā)商標(biāo)定的經(jīng)濟(jì)適用房，對很多當(dāng)?shù)厝藖碚f往往還是太貴，根本買不起。”

10From the outskirts of the Olympi c Park, the route climbs onto the Greenway.This arrow-straight grassy ridge is a curious edgeland, lined with wildflowers and drain covers.The latter produce wafts of an unmistakable smell.‘We’re on top of a Victorian sewer, built in the 1860s,’ Rawling reveals.Despite its origins, the Greenway became a popular pedestrian route.Among its admirers was Mahatma Gandhi.In 1931 Gandhi lived in East London for three months to attend the Round Table Conference on the future of India.‘He stayed with a family in Bromleyby-Bow and apparently enjoyed regular walks along the Greenway.’

10出了奧林匹克公園，步道在外圍順勢而上，連接了城市綠道。這條綠草茵茵的直通小道是一片奇特的邊緣地帶，兩旁是野花和排水溝蓋，后者散發(fā)出明顯的氣味?！拔覀兯局氐南路绞蔷S多利亞時(shí)期的下水道，建于19 世紀(jì)60 年代?！绷_林透露道。不論其前身為何，綠道還是成為一條受歡迎的步行路線。圣雄甘地就對它情有獨(dú)鐘。1931 年，甘地前來參加關(guān)于印度未來的圓桌會(huì)議，曾在東倫敦住過3 個(gè)月?！八乃拊诒へ愰T利的一戶人家，平日顯然很喜歡沿著綠道散步。”

11Squeezing past Old Ford Lock, we follow the towpath of the Lee Navigation.New apartments jostle with converted warehouses.As we approach the Olympic Park again, Rawling recalls how it first impacted the area: ‘A massive blue hoarding11hoarding 臨時(shí)圍籬。suddenly appeared,blocking the towpath.It was very imposing and created lots of suspicion.The park is more integrated now.’ Rawling points ahead to a cluster of boats moored at Hackney Wick.‘They’re floating bars and restaurants.A new riverside community has grown there from the footfall of the park.’

11穿過老福特水閘，我們沿著李氏水道旁的牽道前行。新建公寓與改建倉庫鱗次櫛比。我們再次走近奧林匹克公園時(shí)，羅林回想起公園是怎樣開始影響到這個(gè)地區(qū)的：“巨大的藍(lán)色臨時(shí)圍欄驀然橫現(xiàn)，擋住了牽道。非常有氣勢，引起很多猜測?，F(xiàn)在的公園與周邊更加融合。”羅林指著前方連片停泊在哈克尼威克的那些船，“那是水上酒吧和餐館。得益于公園的如潮人流，一個(gè)新的河邊社區(qū)已經(jīng)發(fā)展起來了?！?/p>

12Turning away from the river, the trail concludes back in the park at Mandeville Place.This large open square, named after the 2012 Paralympic mascot, hosts many of the park’s public events.It’s now lunchtime.The square throngs12throng 群聚。with people enjoying the sun.A group of roller-skaters swoosh past long rows of banners.The banners are emblazoned13emblazon 飾以紋章。with slogans celebrating the tenth anniversary of the Games: Records Were Broken, Memories Were Made, Legacy Is Delivered.The first two are beyond doubt.The third highlights ongoing change.Though the last Olympic medal has long since been awarded, there are still events to play out.■

12從河邊轉(zhuǎn)過來，步道折回了公園的曼德維爾廣場。這個(gè)大型的開放廣場以2012 年殘奧會(huì)吉祥物命名，是公園許多公共活動(dòng)的舉辦地。此時(shí)正是午餐時(shí)間。廣場上聚集著沐浴陽光的人們。一群輪滑愛好者從長排橫幅前快速滑過。橫幅上印有慶祝奧運(yùn)會(huì)十周年的口號(hào)：打破紀(jì)錄，創(chuàng)造回憶，繼往開來。前兩條無可置疑，第三條強(qiáng)調(diào)了正在發(fā)生的變化。雖然倫敦奧運(yùn)的最后一枚獎(jiǎng)牌早已頒出，但還有一些項(xiàng)目等待完成。 □