東錢湖畔謁岳王

黃嵐

辛丑年的一個冬日清晨，我再次前往東錢湖畔拜謁岳鄂王廟。遠山隱約，舟楫靜默，橘色的晨光將東錢湖染得一片溫馨。偶爾有白鷺掠過靜謐的湖面，早行的人們三三兩兩徜徉在湖畔，多么美麗動人的畫面。

岳鄂王廟，位于東錢湖西北岸的瓜嶼上，因地形狀似西瓜，俗稱“西瓜廟”。當地老百姓又稱之為岳王廟，稱岳飛為岳老爺。時隔兩年，風色如舊。廟前兩根高高的旗桿，上有個方斗，四面各書一字，仔細一看，是“國泰民安”“風調雨順”等字樣，岳廟大門前的香爐上有點燃的香燭。問邊上的嬤嬤，才知每逢初一，人們自發(fā)前來祭拜。轉過身來，看到大門上“岳鄂王廟”四個金色大字，被廊前的兩盞大紅燈籠映得流光溢彩。旁邊左右側門上是“天地可表”“丹心萬古”的門額，簡約地概括了岳飛的品德與為人。大門前檐下抱柱上有一副對聯：顛倒是非三字獄，激昂慷慨滿江紅。這上聯說的是岳飛死于“莫須有”這三個字的冤獄，下聯出自他那首千古名作《滿江紅》。大門邊柱上的對聯是：功建武宋千載后，績樹史冊百世長。這是人們對岳飛一生功績的公正評價。

現存岳鄂王廟是清代建筑，具有典型的寧波傳統(tǒng)祀廟風格，為三進五開間建筑，由門樓、中殿、后殿及東西廂樓廊組成。我跨過門樓西邊側門，來到中殿?！斑€我河山”四個大字匾額下，一副楹聯為浙江會稽道道尹黃慶瀾所題：佐南宋中興勛業(yè)方隆三字風波起冤獄，與東湖并壽英雄不死一泓秋水顯忠魂。內有岳飛坐姿塑像，威武剛正，正氣凜然。

岳飛（1103—1142），字鵬舉，相州湯陰（今河南省湯陰縣）人。南宋時期抗金名將、軍事家、戰(zhàn)略家、民族英雄、書法家、詩人，位列南宋“中興四將”之首。我小時就聽過很多有關岳飛的故事，印象最深的是他一出生就遇到發(fā)大水，他坐在水缸中逃命的故事，以及岳母刺字這則故事。后來知道他非常自律，學習刻苦，練武勤奮，善于行軍打仗。靖康之難發(fā)生在公元1127年，時金軍南下，攻取北宋首都開封，擄走徽、欽二帝，導致北宋滅亡。岳飛等將領力挽狂瀾，在攻打敵人、保家衛(wèi)國過程中威名大振。他治軍嚴明，奉行“仁義、智慧、信心、勇氣、嚴格”的策略，使岳家軍在行軍中養(yǎng)成“凍死不拆屋，餓死不打擄”的優(yōu)良作風。他曾計破金軍的鐵塔兵與拐子馬于河南郾城，這是農耕民族以步兵完勝游牧民族騎兵的典型戰(zhàn)例。然而，就在他帶領北伐軍收復中原失地、即將直搗金國首都時，卻被宋高宗趙構以十二道金牌喚回。他知道這一回去，昔日的凌云壯志化為烏有，大宋美好江山難以完璧，于是仰面長嘆，悲憤難當。中殿中間有一副楹聯：三十功名塵與土，八千里路云和月。這兩句詩直接拿來作為楹聯，在格律上是有瑕疵的，但從意思看，瑕不掩瑜?？吹竭@里，我腦海中自然浮現了這《滿江紅》的詩句：怒發(fā)沖冠，憑欄處、瀟瀟雨歇。抬望眼，仰天長嘯，壯懷激烈。三十功名塵與土，八千里路云和月。莫等閑，白了少年頭，空悲切。

作為將領，不怕征戰(zhàn)，不怕浴血疆場，但卻怕賦閑在家，那才是對他最大的打擊。而此時的岳飛，唯有仰天長嘯，壯懷激烈。只是靖康劫難的恥辱還沒洗刷，將士文臣的仇恨，怎可以熄滅？不要讓我空等白了這少年頭，給我一駕戰(zhàn)車，我要踏破賀蘭山闕，直搗黃龍擒胡虜，然后再從頭收拾這舊山河，還我百姓一個清明世界。此時，他怎么可能想到，后面還有一個風波亭等著見證他的無奈憋屈和憤懣。他被誣告“謀反、叛逆”，岳飛以身上的“精忠報國”來辯護，來坦陳他的滿腔愛國熱情，審訊者無言以對。他們沒有證據，卻還是 在1141年除夕（1142年1月27日）之夜，以“莫須有”的罪名將岳飛賜死在風波亭，與他一同被害的還有他的兒子岳云與部下張憲。這是多么令人憤慨的謀殺?。≡里w被害后，獄卒隗順偷偷將他的遺體運出臨安至九曲叢祠，葬之北山。又移至杭州埋下，并用他的玉環(huán)系之遺體腰間作憑證，在平反后移葬西湖棲霞嶺，是為現在的岳王墓。

可能會有許多人與我初次來岳鄂王廟一樣疑惑，岳飛出生在河南，安葬在杭州西湖，為什么在東錢湖畔建有紀念岳飛的廟？我請教了寧波鄞州的文史學者戴松岳老師，他說這個跟南宋的丞相史浩有關。因史浩有平反岳飛冤案的首功，鄉(xiāng)民們乃自發(fā)在此建廟。他還提到現在介紹中稱岳鄂王廟又稱“岳眾行祠”，這個“眾”字有誤，可能“岳公行祠”比較合理。

史浩（1106—1194），字直翁，號真隱，明州鄞縣東錢湖人，南宋政治家、詞人。史家在南宋一朝，先后出過三位丞相，號稱“一門三丞相，四世兩封王，五尚書七十二進士”，是南宋有名的世家大族，其中，史浩是史氏家族中的第一位丞相。史浩在拜相之后，頭一件事就是為岳飛平反，他對宋孝宗說岳飛被殺是存之已久的冤案。提議恢復他的名譽官爵，應該讓他的子孫享受俸祿，與冤案牽連的人都應予以平反昭雪。紹興三十二年（1162）六月，宋孝宗趙眘一繼位就下詔：“追復岳飛元官，以禮改葬?！笔?，又正式恢復岳飛少保、武勝定圍軍節(jié)度使、武昌郡開國公的官爵，恢復岳飛的兒子們官職，封岳飛的孫子為官等。此后，南宋朝廷又追贈岳飛謚號“武穆”，這就是岳武穆的由來。宋寧宗時，追封岳飛為鄂王。為什么被封為鄂王，有說是因為岳飛平反后，是鄂州最先請求為岳飛建立祠廟。而鄂州（今武漢）是岳飛收復襄陽失地時岳家軍的大本營所在地。

轉身回頭，看到門樓背面檐下，掛著個道光年間“忠懸日月”匾額，左右楹聯為：怒發(fā)沖冠一詞顯見爭生志，奸臣當道三字竟成千古冤。這個奸臣當指秦檜了。在廟前點香燭敬祀的嬤嬤見我詢問平日這里是否有游人時，便迫切地告訴我說，岳飛死得多冤呀，曾有個高人對岳飛說過“年底不出，預防天哭;有人毒害，秦字缺兩點”，讓岳飛提防點?！澳甑撞怀觥睉C岳飛被害時除夕說得過去，但“秦字缺兩點”暗指毒害他的是秦檜的“秦”字有點說不通。這個禪意故事，在民間廣為流傳。說的是岳飛奉詔回臨安時，一個禪師要他出家不要回去面帝，并說：“歲底不足，謹防天哭;奉下兩點，將人害毒?！狈钕聝牲c，即指秦字。這位嬤嬤是住在附近村的，她每天早上來給岳老爺上茶，逢人宣講岳飛故事。而這些故事在口口相傳中稍有缺失或改變也是可以理解的。她還說到，以前的岳王廟里，有個跪著拜岳老爺的秦檜像呢，可惜現在早沒了。我想起我們江南的早餐油條，俗稱“油炸鬼（檜）”，就是暗指將捏成秦檜夫妻形象的面粉，放到油鍋中去炸，以解人們對他毒害岳飛的憤慨。從這些民間故事中也可以看出，老百姓對岳飛是多么的崇敬，而對奸臣又是多么的痛恨。

在祠廟的東西兩側廊下，有岳飛故事的畫譜。最吸引人的便是岳母刺字這一幅。雖然小時早已熟知這個故事，但在看到壁畫時，還是非常感動。金兵大舉進攻時，岳飛投軍報國，岳母在其背上刺上“精忠報國”四字，而國字少一點，表示國土有缺。那一針針，不只刺在岳飛的肌膚上，更刺在岳飛的心頭上，成為他一生力量的源泉、行動的準則，以此來激勵他忠誠愛國，誓死守衛(wèi)國土。在我參觀的時候，有一對父母帶著七八歲的孩子也過來參觀，父母在給孩子講解這個故事。是的，這是絕好的愛國主義教育。我們的孩子應該了解我們的先賢故事，了解岳飛這位大英雄的故事。

記得我第一次來時正逢下雨，瀟瀟風雨飄落在東錢湖上，似乎看到了金宋對抗時的風雨。我當場寫下一首七律《謁岳鄂王廟》：冬日錢湖浪寂寥，岳王廟外雨風飄。滿江紅寄河山志，三字獄傷宗稷祧。幸有后人平眾怒，終留武穆饗今朝。長嘆一代英雄淚，換見千年愛國潮。

是的，英雄的淚沒有白流。只要看看那孩子專注的眼神就知道了。歷史的河流滾滾向前，岳飛是我們民族的脊梁，他的愛國主義精神一直激勵著我們。我們寧波人更深有感觸。在抗擊外敵時，岳飛的“還我河山”也成了一種象征，今天，我再次站在岳王廟，我知道千百年來，他精忠報國的精神早已深深植入我們的心靈。而我也為我們擁有這一座岳鄂王廟而感到慶幸，為能隨時拜謁岳王而倍添榮耀，為能隨時聆聽岳王留給后人的教誨而深感榮幸。

Revisiting the King Yue’s Temple in Ningbo

By Huang Lan

I revisited the King Yue’s Temple （Yue E Wang Miao in Chinese， literary Yue King of E Temple， or King Yue’s Temple， dedicated to Yue Fei， King of E，） located along the Dongqian Lake in Ningbo on a winter morning in 2021. It is also known as the “watermelon temple” because it is on an islet that has the shape of a watermelon. Two flag poles stood tall in front of the temple， and a square dou （a Chinese bushel） is placed atop with some characters on each of its four sides， which read guotai minan （stable country and peaceful people）， fengtiao yushun （good weather for the crops）. The censers placed before the temple gate had lit candles in them， as visitors regularly pay their respect. The four-character Chinese name of the temple Yue E Wang Miao was written in golden above the gate， which beautifully glittered by the presence of two large-sized red lanterns in front of the corridor. On the side doors both at the left and the right there were some descriptions about Yue’s morality and personality， which were enhanced by the couplets on the surrounding pillars showing his life story and achievements.

The current King Yue’s Temple was first built in the Qing dynasty （1616-1911）， a classic sacrifice temple of Ningbo traditions. It is a three-section five-room architecture， consisting of a gate tower， a middle hall， a rear hall with east- and west- wing corridors. Crossing the west door of the gate tower， I entered the middle hall， where a horizontal inscribed board reading huan wo he shan （give back our lost territories）， a couplet and a sculpture of Yue Fei in sitting position could be found.

Yue Fei （1103-1142）， courtesy name Pengju， was born in Xiangzhou （present-day Tangyin county， Anyang city） Henan province. He was a military general， militarist， calligrapher and poet during the Southern Song dynasty （1127-1279） and honored as “hero of the time”.

I heard many stories about Yue Fei when I was a child， and was really impressed by one of his managing to escape in a water tank and survived in a flood as a kid and another of his mother tattooing on his back. As I grew older， I also learned about his self-discipline， diligence in studying and practicing martial arts， and military talent.

During the Jingkang Incident， which took place in 1127 and led to the downfall of the Northern Song dynasty （960-1127）， Yue fought bravely with his famously loyal and courageous “troops of the Yue family”， and was highly praised for his contribution. It was in this disastrous fight that Yue made his name. Later in another confrontation （1140）， he beat a trap set by the strongest of Jurchen invaders strategically， a typical victory of infantry over cavalry. However， when he was trying to reclaim the lost territories and take the capital of Jin dynasty （1115-1234） with his warriors， he was recalled back by the emperor with 12 orders， which came in the form of 12 golden plagues. Knowing his ambitious old days would turn to dust， and his beloved homeland could no longer stay intact， Yue cried into the air with sad indignation， which was expressed in his best celebrated poem “Man Jiang Hong” （Entirely Red River）.

As a general of ambition and patriotism， he could not bear watching the chances to fight for his homeland and protect his compatriots being robbed away. However， things went even worse unexpectedly. He was falsely accused of treason， no matter how justified and loyal he was and how hard he defended himself against it， and executed for a “could be true” crime at the Fengbo Pavilion. His son Yue Yun （1119-1142） was also put to death. After Yue Fei’s murder， a jailer stealthily escorted his body into Hangzhou to be buried there.

Some people may share my doubts about why there is a commemorate temple for Yue Fei in Ningbo， given that his birthplace is Henan， and his tomb is in Hangzhou. To clear that up， I asked Dai Songyue， a scholar on Ningbo’s cultural history， who explained that it had something to do with a prime minister of the Southern Song dynasty named Shi Hao （1106-1194）， who hailed from Dongqian lake， Qin county （present-day Ningbo）. As a newly appointed prime minister， he made it his priority for Yue’s mishandled case to be readdressed. Shi appealed to the emperor that Yue’s reputation and titular honors should be restored. So should those of his sons and grandsons， as well as other victims. Shi’s pleas were fully accepted and implemented accordingly. Later， the Song court gave Yue a posthumous title of King of E.

I turned around and saw a horizontal inscribed board with a couplet on the back of the gate tower. The characters on the board praised the great loyalty of Yue， while the ones on the couplet grieved over his tragic end and raged against Qin Hui （1090-1115）， who conspired against Yue and eventually led to his death.

Yue is still loved and respected by local folks. There was this old woman to whom I talked at the entrance. She lived nearby and came here every morning to pay tribute to the hero by serving tea， and told his stories to everyone she came across.

These stories could be found drew on the walls of the east and west corridors inside the temple. Among all the folk tales， the one of Yue’s back tattoos was the most fascinating to me. Before Yue left home to join the army and defend his homeland against Jin’s invasion， his mother tattooed him on the back that read jing zhong bao guo （serve the country with the utmost loyalty） to remind Yue of his duty. These words were not only written on his back but deeply in his heart， becoming his lifetime source of courage and strength. During my visit， I saw a child of seven or eight was also there with the parents， who were explaining the stories to their kid.

And I was grateful to learn， by only looking at the child’s focused eyes， that the hero’s tears were not shed in vain. With the river of history rolling on， Yue Fei is always an inspiration of patriotism. Ningbo locals are feeling it profoundly. For example， during the War of Resistance against Japanese Aggression， Yue Fei’s appeal of “give back our lost territories” was also a spiritual pillar.

Today， as I stood at King Yue’s Temple again， I knew that his spirit of loyalty and service has been deeply implanted in the hearts and minds of Chinese people for thousands of years. I also feel fortunate enough to have this temple around， which we could visit at any time to be enlightened and educated with a humble heart.