豆腐與魚相愛 不是一種意外

高維微

三溪口豆腐魚，一道盛名在外的重慶佳肴。

碩大如臉盆的菜盆里，魚和豆腐在厚厚一層紅艷的辣椒下相擁，油潑辣子特有的香味混合著魚的鮮香、豆腐的軟綿，勾引得人食欲爆棚。

從渝武高速三溪口互通下道往北碚方向走，沿途的廣告牌上，“豆腐與魚相愛，不是一種意外”“三溪口不遠(yuǎn)，豆腐魚很近”等廣告語，為麻辣鮮香的豆腐魚增添了一絲文藝范。

Sanxikou Tofu Fish is a famous Chongqing delicacy.

In a vegetable basin as large as a washbasin， fish and tofu embrace each other under a thick layer of red pepper. The unique fragrance of oil and pungent seeds is mixed with the fresh fragrance of fish and the soft cotton of tofu， which seduces people’s appetite.

On the billboards along the way from Sanxikou Interchange of Chongqing-Wuhan Expressway to Beibei， slogans such as "Tofu falls in love with fish - that was no accident"，"Sanxikou is not far away， tofu fish is nearby" add enormously to the cultural ambiance of tofu fish that originally wandered in the spicy food world.

過路司機與路邊攤的合作Cooperation Between Passing Drivers and Roadside Stalls

說到三溪口豆腐魚，就不得不提212國道（現(xiàn)542省道）上的貨車司機。正是他們和當(dāng)?shù)鼐用窆餐瑒?chuàng)造了三溪口的這道美味。

上世紀(jì)八十年代，三溪口是212國道進出重慶城的必經(jīng)之路。當(dāng)時就有村民在公路邊擺攤賣小面，專做過往司機的生意。隨著貨車越來越多，司機收入也越來越高，他們就要求老板“整點好吃的”。

整什么好呢？偏遠(yuǎn)小鎮(zhèn)三溪口，唯獨不缺嘉陵江魚，于是小面攤端出了麻辣魚。一來麻辣壓腥，二來重口味下飯，因此很受貨車司機們的偏愛。

不過，光是吃魚難免單調(diào)。三溪口有股山泉，村民們用泉水做的豆腐早有名氣，貨車司機便要求在麻辣魚中多加些豆腐。沒曾想，燥辣與溫柔的相遇讓人意外驚喜，于是菜譜再次升級，麻辣魚變成了豆腐魚。

三溪口豆腐魚的名聲，隨著貨車的車輪越傳越遠(yuǎn)，當(dāng)?shù)鼐用褚布娂姲雅R街的房屋改造成魚莊。鼎盛時期，公路兩旁的館子多達三十余家。

這些魚莊經(jīng)營項目類似，外觀差別又不大。為避免走錯場子，食客們在口口相傳中給它們?nèi)×烁鞣N代號：“口口雨棚棚那家”“三層樓紅磚房”“白色瓷磚房”“負(fù)一樓殺魚那家……

When it comes to the Sanxikou Tofu Fish， we have to mention the truck drivers on National Highway 212 （now Provincial Highway 542）. It was they and the local residents who jointly created this delicious dish in Sanxikou.

In the 1980s， Sanxikou was the only way for National Highway 212 to enter and leave Chongqing City. At that time， some villagers set up stalls selling noodles along the highway mainly for passing drivers. As the number of trucks increased and drivers’ wallets got thicker， they asked the stall owners for"something better".

What to offer？ In Sanxikou， a remote town， there is no shortage of Jialing River fish， so spicy fish is served in small noodle stalls. On the one hand， it is spicy， with no fishy smell， and on the other hand， it is very popular with truck drivers because of its heavy taste.

However， fish alone is somewhat dull. There is a mountain spring in Sanxikou. Tofu made by villagers from spring water has long been famous. Truck drivers asked for more tofu to be added to spicy fish. What people unexpected was the surprise of the meeting of hotness and gentleness. Therefore， the menu was upgraded again， and spicy fish became tofu fish.

The reputation of Sanxikou Tofu Fish， as the wheels of trucks， spread further and further， local residents have also transformed houses facing the street into fish restaurants. At its peak， there were more than 30 restaurants on both sides of the highway.

These fish restaurants have similar menus and little difference in appearance. In order to avoid going to the wrong one， diners gave them various codes， "the one with the canopy shed"， "the three-story red brick house"， "the white ceramic tile house" and "the fish killing one on the negative first floor...

豆腐魚里有山水There are Landscapes in Tofu Fish

三溪口豆腐魚口碑相傳幾十年，關(guān)鍵就在獨特的山水滋味。

作為主角的魚，肉質(zhì)細(xì)膩才能與豆腐完美搭配。三溪口地處嘉陵江邊，出好魚、選好魚自然不算難事。而點睛之筆的豆腐，則一定要用三溪口背后小山上的山泉水制作，軟綿Q彈帶一點點嚼勁。這山泉水同時也是豆腐魚口味獨特的關(guān)鍵配方——三溪口幾乎所有魚莊都將山泉水引到了廚房。幾乎所有人都堅持認(rèn)為，“山泉水和自來水煮出來的魚，味道就是不一樣”。

隨著更多精品魚的出現(xiàn)，原本用來壓腥味的辣椒，承擔(dān)起更多增色添香的職責(zé)。辣椒是新鮮的干辣椒，這樣才能保證紅亮亮的鮮艷度。因為要配合上桌前最后一道潑油的工序，所以炒辣椒和舂制糊辣殼不能太生、太細(xì)，也不能過火或者太粗，否則要么不出香味，要么會有焦糊味。各種火候，全憑師傅拿捏。

Sanxikou Tofu Fish has been handed down for decades， and the key lies in its unique landscape taste.

Only fish with finer flesh can be perfectly balanced with tofu. Sanxikou is located on the Jialing River， so it is naturally not difficult to produce and select good fish. The finishing touch is the tofu， soft and chewy， which must be made from the mountain spring water on the hill behind Sanxikou. This mountain spring water is also the key formula for the unique taste of tofu fish. Almost all fish farms in Sanxikou lead the mountain spring water to the kitchen. Almost everyone insists that "fish cooked with mountain spring water and tap water have different tastes".

With the emergence of more fine fish， chili， which was originally used to remove the fishy smell， has assumed more responsibilities to add color and aroma. Chili is fresh and dried， so as to ensure the brightness of red. To cooperate with the last process of pouring oil before serving， the fried chili and pounded spicy shells should not be too raw， too fine， too hot or too thick， otherwise， they will either have no fragrance or have burnt flavor. All degrees of heating is up to the master.

一盤魚長出一條街A Plate of Fish Grows a Street

然而盛名之下，三溪口豆腐魚卻因為沿街店面簡陋的環(huán)境，長時間被戲稱為“蒼蠅館子”，加上渝武高速通車后，走542省道的車越來越少，三溪口豆腐魚的火爆場面逐漸降溫，原先三十多家魚莊只剩下不到一半。轉(zhuǎn)型發(fā)展尋找出路，成為經(jīng)營戶需要考慮的問題。

上世紀(jì)八十年代，涼風(fēng)埡豆腐魚莊是三溪口最早的一批豆腐魚莊之一，如今由父親和叔伯傳到了劉光亮手中。為了留住幾十年傳承下來的老味道，劉光亮一直在堅持，“豆腐魚是我們家最早開始做的，我們肯定不可能拋棄豆腐魚轉(zhuǎn)行，不過我們在配菜上有增加?！?/p>

代號“三層樓紅磚房”的渝興豆腐魚，靠著推陳出新贏得市場，比如為老人和小孩準(zhǔn)備了番茄魚和酸菜魚，還有回鍋魚等。

還有一些魚莊，選擇開辟第二戰(zhàn)場，比如“王記”，把總店搬到了北碚城區(qū)的九號好吃街上。

除了經(jīng)營者，北碚區(qū)人民政府也在為“三溪口豆腐魚”想辦法。北碚區(qū)結(jié)合城市提升改造工程，精心打造三溪口豆腐魚特色美食街，還聘請了專業(yè)團隊，一對一為17戶商家量身定制改造提升方案，力爭讓每家店都能帶給食客不同的感受，劉光亮的魚莊現(xiàn)在甚至還加裝了電梯。

再探三溪口豆腐魚，味道沒變，環(huán)境卻讓人舒心了很多。而且設(shè)置了專門的停車位，非常方便，吃完魚還可以沿著周邊步道散散步，頗為愜意。

However， with its fame， Sanxikou Tofu Fish has been nicknamed "Fly Restaurant" for a long time because of the crude environment of storefronts along the street. In addition， after the Chongqing-Wuhan Expressway was opened to traffic， fewer and fewer cars took Provincial Highway 542， and the hot scene of Sanxikou tofu fish gradually cooled down， leaving less than half of the original thirty fish restaurants. Finding a way out for transformation and development has become a problem that these owners need to consider.

In the 1980s， Liangfengya Tofu Fish Restaurant was one of the earliest players in Sanxikou， and now it has been passed to Liu Guangliang by his father and uncles. In order to retain the taste passed down for decades， Liu Guangliang has been struggling for long， "It was our family that first started making tofu fish， and we certainly can’t abandon it to another career， but we have increased the number of side dishes."

Yuxing Tofu Fish， codenamed "Three-story Red Brick House"， has won the market by bringing forth the new， such as preparing tomato fish， pickled cabbage fish and twice cooked fish for the elderly and children.

There are also some fish farms that have chosen to open up the second battlefield， such as "Wang Ji"， and moved their head office to No.9 Delicious Street in Beibei City.

In addition to the operators， Beibei District Government is also trying to find a way out for "Sanxikou Tofu Fish". Beibei District has carefully built the Sanxikou Tofu Fish Special Food Street in combination with the urban upgrading project， and hired a professional team to tailor the upgrading plan for 17 businesses one by one， striving to make each store bring different feelings to diners. Now， the fish farm of Liu Guangliang has even installed elevators.

Revisiting a restaurant offering Sanxikou Tofu Fish again， we find that the taste remains unchanged， but the environment is much more comfortable. Moreover， parking space is set up， making dining more convenient. After eating fish， you can also take a walk along the surrounding trails， which is quite pleasant.