千里錢塘江 最美在常山

徐功富 金少策

常山位于浙江省西部，是閩浙贛皖四省邊際區(qū)的中心城市。全縣總面積1099平方公里，縣域生態(tài)環(huán)境優(yōu)良，森林覆蓋率73.2%，常年空氣質量保持在二級以上，出境水水質常年保持Ⅱ類水以上標準，是國家重點生態(tài)功能區(qū)、浙江省重要生態(tài)屏障、中國最美鄉(xiāng)村旅游目的地，有“千里錢塘江、最美在常山”的美譽。

徜徉三衢大地，無論身在何處，都仿佛置身于景區(qū)。常山最大的優(yōu)勢是生態(tài)優(yōu)勢，綠色是最大的底色。近年來，常山牢固樹立“綠水青山就是金山銀山”理念，走出了一條文旅農融合的探索實踐之路，一個個具有文化氣息又充滿活力的景區(qū)和鄉(xiāng)村正闊步向我們走來。

地質奇觀? 三衢石林

“全球低碳生態(tài)景區(qū)”——三衢石林風景區(qū)位于縣城北10公里處，在輝埠鎮(zhèn)境內，屬國家4A級景區(qū)。景區(qū)面積13.49平方公里，由三衢山、小古山、大古山三部分組成。東面的三衢山是衢州的母親山，景觀以典雅精致見長，主要景點有趙公巖;中部的小古山，景觀以奇、險、美為主要特色，景點有猴子觀海等;西面的大古山，景觀以曲折幽深、氣勢宏偉著稱，其中的三衢長廊被中外游客稱之為“江南一絕”。

三衢山最高海拔518.8米，放眼望去，景區(qū)內石林與藤蔓相互交織，蔚為壯觀。三衢山景區(qū)素有世界上最大的“象形石動物園”之稱，徒步沿景區(qū)道路邊欣賞美景邊拾級而上，典型的喀斯特地貌孕育出千姿百態(tài)、惟妙惟肖的動物造型，有的像蟾蜍，有的像圣母，有的像大象……只要有想象力，人們的身邊就仿佛有珍禽走獸一路相伴。

“梅子黃時日日晴，小溪泛盡卻山行。 綠陰不減來時路，添得黃鸝四五聲?！?00多年前，南宋詩人曾幾的《三衢道中》把三衢山梅熟杏黃、鳥語花香的初夏景色描繪得如詩如畫。由此可見，三衢山自古以來便是文人墨客的“旅游打卡地”之一。

現今，游人來三衢山游玩，一個必去的景點便是趙公巖。趙公巖，實為三衢山西側半山腰的一間石室，是鐵面御史趙抃讀書之處。有史為證。萬歷《常山縣志》載：“趙公巖在縣東北二十五里。捫蘿而登，石洞可容百人。宋清獻趙公讀書其下，因以趙名巖?！壁w抃，衢州西安人，進士及第。他為官清廉，時任宰相韓琦贊其為“世人標表”。

古韻金源? 以旅彰文

金源村由原高角、底角、外宅、后宅4個行政村合并而成，是一個有著1000多年歷史的古村落。村中巷道縱橫，曲徑通幽，一條小溪蜿蜒曲折，穿村而過。村頭的石拱橋旁至今還佇立著古老的牌坊、宗祠，他們仿佛在默默講述 “王氏一門九進士”的故事。

宗祠為亭臺翹檐式建筑，整座建筑雕刻精細。該宗祠分三進，前進設戲臺，左、右側置廂房。中進是大廳，可通后進走廊，后進為五架梁穿斗式結構。毗鄰宗祠，一個兩柱三樓門式石坊巍然屹立，正中額坊上刻陰文楷書“世美”二字，具有莊重、古樸的特征。

金源村王姓是北宋王介的后裔。王家世代為官，有“一門九進士，歷朝笏滿床”之美譽。光緒《常山縣志》記載：“世美坊，在縣東上源，為王氏世科立?！睋?，這9位進士分別是：王言、王介、王悆、王漢之、王溈之、王沇之、王渙之、王櫟、王一非。

耕讀傳家，是“浙江省歷史文化村落保護與利用重點村”金源村的優(yōu)良傳統(tǒng)。平日里，宗祠內外總是飄蕩著瑯瑯書聲。2018年，該村又被授予“浙江省書法村”稱號。一有空閑，無論是大人還是小孩，都會到宗祠里習練書法。

利用文化資源發(fā)展旅游業(yè)，金源村一直在努力。2020年，村里實施現代旅游根據地項目。騰云（常山）旅游管理有限公司（以下簡稱騰云公司）與30余戶村民簽訂了合作協議。公司租用16幢村集體已修繕古民居和村民閑置空房，將其打造成民宿，村民成為民宿主或民宿管家。為提高檔次，民宿由騰云公司統(tǒng)一設計、裝修、經營和管理，村集體和農戶可選擇出租獲取租金或合作經營拿分紅兩種形式參與。項目采用“旅游公司+村集體+村民”的模式運營，騰云公司旗下的15家旅游公司負責為民宿招攬客源。項目啟動以來，騰云公司面向全村適齡婦女開設了禮儀、民宿服務技能等培訓課程。

踏進古村，仿佛時光開始交錯。僻靜的老街上，大紅燈籠高高掛，抬頭可見鮮艷的彩旗。轉角池塘邊、涼亭里坐滿了村民，他們談天說地，怡然自得?，F如今，“村莊變景區(qū)，公司變地接，農戶變管家”的目標正成為現實。目前，村里正根據“一門九進士”的歷史典故，朝著將村子打造成宋文化網紅村的目標前進，并著手規(guī)劃“進士文化旅游專線”。

秀麗徐村? 活力四射

這是一個如畫般的美麗村莊，被譽為“千里錢江第一村”，是浙江省美麗鄉(xiāng)村特色精品村。

從縣城往西北方向走，大約七八分鐘的車程，就到了風景秀麗的徐村。5平方公里的村莊內遍布古樟名樹，常山江宛如一條綠絲帶蜿蜒而過。江畔綠樹成蔭，岸線自然逶迤。新建的環(huán)村綠道，干凈整潔。天然沙灘浴場，演繹著三亞風光。

除了美如錦繡的自然景觀，悠久、厚重的歷史人文也是徐村人的一大驕傲。目前，村內建有范沖文化廣場、繡溪人文館等景點。

說到人文景點，不得不說疊石?？h志記載：疊石，在徐村村東，石突出溪中，疊石如堆。范沖（1066-1141），字元長，北宋紹圣元年（1094）中進士。南宋建炎元年，居家遷居疊石。其間，常與中興賢相趙鼎、知縣魏矼、縣尉翁蒙之討論時事，以詩唱和，被稱為“常山四賢”?；蛟S是常山人不想忘記“四賢唱和”的生動圖景，這些浮動的疊石，多少年來任憑洪水狂浪沖擊，兀自巋然不動，引得后人紛紛觸景生情，喟嘆歷史名人的風流軼事。

有著800多年樹齡的古樟，見證了徐村的歷史和現在。

美麗風景轉化為美麗經濟。近年來，全村實施科學規(guī)劃，大力開展村莊整治，提升村莊整體品位。經過美麗庭院整治，村內各戶庭院變得美觀、整潔、大方。近些年，依托常山江的優(yōu)勢，村子正在打造“水岸風情”主題休閑特色村，全域化流轉土地300余畝，其中種植荷花20畝。夏日里荷花連片，放眼望去，“接天蓮葉無窮碧，映日荷花別樣紅”的韻味噴薄而出。周末閑暇時光，邀上三五好友，邊賞景邊騎行，不亦樂乎。

徐村，是一個浪漫的地方。盛夏時節(jié)，成片的紫薇花絢爛綻放，與藍天白云和附近的草地相互映襯，有種無法言說的美。百畝大草坪，是俊男靚女拍攝婚紗照的優(yōu)選場所，年輕人對未來美好生活的憧憬和希冀從這里起飛。同時，在茵茵草坪上，挖出兒童沙池，成為親子休閑的打卡地。

今年“五四”青年節(jié)，徐村成為年輕人狂歡的海洋。2021常山YOUYOU音樂節(jié)在這里火爆舉行，來自五湖四海的樂迷齊聚一堂，臺上燃爆的演出和臺下樂迷熱烈的吶喊，碰撞出高潮迭起的青春狂想曲。

文化搭臺，經濟唱戲?！癥OUYOU”，既是胡柚，也是茶油。本次活動現場專設美食區(qū)，集中展示了常山胡柚、山茶油、食用菌等農特產品?；顒蝇F場，觀眾品嘗常山特色美食，掀起一輪又一輪的“帶貨熱”。

音浪不歇，躍動不止。借助浙皖閩贛（衢黃南饒）“聯盟花園”平臺，常山以此次音樂會為契機，加快了和四地合作的步伐，讓更多游客“來了不想走，走了還想來”。

靜美泰安? 民宿之光

峰巒疊嶂，溪水淙淙;青山深處，炊煙裊裊。位于常山縣城東北29公里的泰安村，地處偏遠，由對塢與安坑兩個行政村合并而來，村名取自對塢與安坑兩個自然村古名“泰川”和“安川”的第一個字。該村位于新昌鄉(xiāng)東部，明清時屬遷善鄉(xiāng)二十一都。村中主要有對塢王姓居民和安坑余姓、石姓居民。王姓來源于宋代祖籍太原的王偉進士后代。余氏、石氏皆遷徙自鄰縣淳安。

入得村內，要走很長一段蜿蜒曲折的山路，常常是一個山彎連著一個山彎。走過一段下坡路，在四周都是郁郁蔥蔥的各種不知名的高大樹木掩映下，安然地藏匿著一個猶如世外桃源般的小村莊。村口靜靜地佇立著一棵百年老樟樹，像是隨時歡迎客人的到來和游子的回歸。

泰安村并不大，整個村莊沿溪而建，獨特的地理環(huán)境使當地聚落呈線狀分布。幾百年前，為方便泰安溪兩側村民往來通行，村民們陸續(xù)在溪上搭建石橋。數百年過去了，橋身已是芳草萋萋，但依舊堅固如初。如今村中共有石拱橋六十六座和木質古廊橋一座，成為當地一道獨特的人文景觀。因為橋多，泰安村素有“百橋村”的美譽。

泰安村村口處廊橋邊，有盞流傳了500多年的“天燈”，點燈的人一代接一代，從來沒有間斷過，這盞天燈也每天都亮著?！疤鞜簟钡膫髡f有各種版本，有的說點“天燈”是為了驅猛獸;有的說是照明，便于村民夜間走路。但是不管哪種說法，“天燈”流傳至今，已成為山民祈福、求平安的一種古老傳承。

近年來，該村實施偏遠山村下山易地脫貧工程，村內大部分村民搬離村莊。然而，這個經歷了500多年風風雨雨的古村落，卻依舊吸引著眾多鄉(xiāng)賢、文人雅士、中外游客的到來。

這其中的緣由還要從一位從杭州歸來的小伙說起。畢業(yè)于中國美院的余家富，心底里對農村有一種天然的喜歡。大學畢業(yè)后，他先是和朋友合伙開了一家電子商務公司。2016年，聽說村里一棟有200多年歷史的徽派古宅要賣給一個古建商人，第二天他就跑回家，拿出所有積蓄，硬是說服了原來的屋主，贖回了老房子。他要把這所古宅改造成民宿。

為了“整”出一棟符合自己心意的民宿，余家富在盡可能保留老物件的同時，想方設法把自己的創(chuàng)意融入到整修中。一年后，一幢有客房、茶室，還有開放式廚房和戶外露天餐廳的民宿，赫然出現在人們眼前。個性化的客房設計尤為出彩，有泳池浪漫大床房、望山溫馨大床房、聽風家庭雙床間、竹林靜享雙標間等。

之后，余家富又買下村頭一間破舊的老房子，把它改造成古法釀酒坊。釀酒工序，全用古法，因為食材和水質有保證，酒的口感深受人們的喜愛?！拔矣芯?，你有故事嗎？”至此，常山第一家文化主題特色民宿——村上酒舍誕生。

村上酒舍開業(yè)后，很快得到了游客的青睞，平均入住率達到30%。因為名聲在外，許多外地游客慕名而來。有來繪畫寫生的，有來影視創(chuàng)作的，有來修身養(yǎng)性的。2018年，村上酒舍被評為浙江省白金宿（全市首批，共兩家）、省十大文化主題民宿。

現在，余家富又多了一個身份：常山縣民宿行業(yè)協會會長。除了運營好自己的民宿，他還要為縣里的民宿產業(yè)發(fā)展出謀劃策。目前，他正在為村里打造民宿集群忙碌著。

錢塘源頭到常山，山清水綠畫不如。翻開常山的地圖，八山半水分半田的地貌并未禁錮住常山的美，一川如畫的常山江，挺拔蔥蘢的八面山，“一山一宿一景”的文化主題特色民宿……孕育了千年古城美麗經濟發(fā)展的勃勃生機。

Beautiful Changshan， a Riverside County

By Xu Gongfu? Jin Shaoce

Located in the west of Zhejiang province， Changshan county is the regional hub of four adjacent provinces of Fujian， Zhejiang， Jiangxi and Anhui. With a total area of 1，099 square kilometers， it has an excellent ecological system. Not only does it enjoy a forest coverage rate of 73.2%， it also manages to keep the air quality and the transregional water quality above Class II for all year round. It is a national key area of ecological function， an important ecological protective screen in Zhejiang province， and one of the most beautiful rural tourist attractions in China.

Wandering around in Changshan is like visiting a scenic spot， and you will be fully immersed in the color of lush green， which proudly speaks for its ecological achievements. In recent years， under the belief of “l(fā)ucid waters and lush mountains are invaluable assets”， Changshan government has practiced the integration of culture， tourism and agriculture， creating a vibrant and cultural atmosphere for its tourist sites and villages.

Sanqu Stone Forest

Sanqu Stone Forest， a national 4A-level scenic spot， is located within Huifu township， 10 kilometers north from the urban area. It covers 13.49 square kilometers and consists of three parts： Sanqu Mountain， Xiaogu Mountain， and Dagu Mountain.

The elegant， exquisite Sanqu Mountain lying in the east is the mother mountain of Quzhou. It has a highest elevation of 518.8 meters above sea level， and is known as the largest animal-shaped stone park in the world. Looking around， you will be impressed by the magnificent views of intertwined vines covering stones， which resemble different animals. Its main attraction is called Zhaogong Rock， a stone room where an imperial censor surnamed Zhao occupied as his study during Song dynasty （960-1279）.

The central Xiaogu Mountain is renowned for its amazingly precipitous cliffs and a scenic spot resembling a monkey watching the sea. In the west， there is a Dagu Mountain with grand， mysterious-looking landscape， and its Sanqu Pomenade was highly praised as “one of the most beautiful in the Jiangnan region”.

Jinyuan Village

Jinyuan village is an ancient village with a history of more than 1，000 years， formed by four administrative villages， namely Gaojiao， Dijiao， Waizhai and Houzhai. Lanes and alleys crisscross the whole village， where a small stream meanders through. At the entrance to the village， there is a stone arch bridge with some pagodas and an ancestral hall around. They seem to tell silently the glorious story of Wangs family from Northern Song dynasty （960-1127）， a family of nine scholars. It is said that the Jinyuan villagers surnamed Wang are descendants of Wang Jie （1015-1087）， a scholar from that reputable family.

The ancestral hall of Jinyuan village is a finely-carved， pavilion-style building with a gable roof. There are three sections to the hall. In the front section， you can find a theater stage and there are compartments on both sides of the section. The middle section is a grand hall leading to the corridor in the back section， which has a five-beam structure. Adjacent to the ancestral hall， a two-pillar， three-story door-shaped stone archway stands tall， with the word Shimei engraved on its front plaque， showing a solemn and simple character.

Jinyuan village boasts of a fine tradition of “cultivation and read to bequeath to the family” and has been selected as a key village of historical and cultural value in Zhejiang province. In 2018， the village was awarded the title of “Calligraphy Village of Zhejiang province”. Based on its rich cultural resources， the village has invested great effort in developing its tourism industry. In 2020， a modern tourism project was implemented， where Tengun （Changshan） Tourism Management Company came here to start a B&B （bed and breakfast） business. They rented idle ancient houses from 16 villagers， who then became guesthouse owners or housekeepers. At present， a historical and cultural travel route is under planning to make Jinyuan village a popular destination of the Song culture.

Xucun Village

Xucun village is to the northwest of downtown Changshan， about seven to eight minutes car ride away. It is a picturesque place covering five square kilometers， with Changshan river flowing across like a green silk ribbon. The winding shorelines， the newly built greenway lined with camphor trees， and the natural beaches magically create an impression of tropical landscape. No wonder it is celebrated as one of the most beautiful villages along the Qiantang River， and a distinguished boutique village in Zhejiang province.

In addition to the beautiful natural landscape， it also has a long and profound history. Currently， there are humanistic attractions such as Fanchong Cultural Square， Xiuxi Humanities Museum and stacked stones — which have witnessed interesting anecdotes of historical celebrities， and are certainly not to be missed.

For Xucun village， its beautiful scenery has turned into a rich source of economic value. Recently， practical projects of scientific planning and overall upgrading have been carried out， and the neat and refined village is well on the way to becoming a leisure resort of a waterfront style， reasonably relying on the Changshan River. It is such a welcoming place that invites youth， romance， and energy， and will surely attract more visitors in the future.

Taian Village

Taian village is relatively remote， 29 kilometers to the northeast of downtown Taian. It has been formed by two former administrative villages of Duiwu and Ankeng.

Before you enter the village， there is a long mountain road of twists and turns， which is densely lined with nameless tall trees. When you finish the last stretch of the downhill path， you will find a small village secretly standing there at the end of the road， a hidden paradise.

It is not large in size， for the whole village is constructed along a creek following a linear pattern. Hundreds of years ago， some villagers built a number of stone bridges to facilitate the passage to and from both sides of Taian creek. Those bridges have stood well against the passing of time， and are still as strong as ever. Nowadays， there are 36 stone arch bridges and one wooden bridge in the village， which has become a unique cultural landscape and therefore gives Taian village its reputation of “Village of a Hundred Bridges”.

In recent years， the village has implemented a few poverty-alleviation projects. Although many local people have moved away， this ancient village keeps attracting Chinese and foreign tourists up till this day. This is attributed to a young man named Yu Jiafu， a graduate from the China Academy of Art. Coming back from Hangzhou， he first co-founded an e-commerce company with his friends， and in 2016 decided to do a B&B business by creatively transforming a 200-year-old house of Huizhou style， which he bought with all his savings. The ancient house has thus become a modern， stylish hostel with tea houses， open kitchens， alfresco dining， and guest rooms of personalized designs.

Encourage by his first success， Yu went on and bought another old house in the village， which he turned into an ancient brewery， and then a culturally featured B&B， the Village Wine House. Being first of its kind in Changshan， it soon gained popularity among tourists with an average occupancy rate of 30%. In 2018， the Village Wine House was recognized as a platinum B&B and one of the top ten culturally themed B&B in Zhejiang province.