和合之城 六養(yǎng)天臺

陳緬

浙江東部有大山，名曰天臺，縱橫數(shù)百里，蜿蜒至東海之濱。在這塊古老而神奇的土地上，一處處佳景像珍珠撒落在神奇秀色之中，組成了一幅精美絕倫的山水長卷，流連其中，養(yǎng)眼、養(yǎng)肺、養(yǎng)胃，養(yǎng)腦、養(yǎng)心、養(yǎng)神……

這里就是國家重點(diǎn)風(fēng)景名勝區(qū)、國家5A級旅游景區(qū)——天臺山！

景從天降? 天生麗質(zhì)

天臺山地處北緯30度這一地球上最神秘的風(fēng)光走廊，山水神秀，風(fēng)光旖旎，187平方公里的風(fēng)景名勝區(qū)范圍內(nèi)，分布著上百個景區(qū)、景點(diǎn)。

這是一座充滿神秘色彩的靈山，更是一座開宗立派的神奇圣山。始建于隋朝的國清寺，1400多年來，在一聲聲晨鐘暮鼓中見證著朝代的更替與歷史的變遷，梵唄清音傳唱著千年的文化與故事。當(dāng)年，高僧“智者大師”智顗慕名來到天臺山，十年頭陀證悟，融匯百家經(jīng)論，開創(chuàng)了漢化佛教第一宗天臺宗，遠(yuǎn)傳日韓，成為了中、日、韓天臺宗的祖庭。

神秀天臺不僅是佛家的修行之所，也是道教仙家的修真佳境，深山秀水孕育出了道教南宗一派，祖庭就是桐柏宮。據(jù)說，這里最初是漢末“太極葛仙翁”葛玄修仙之地，后來南宗祖師張伯端在此撰寫著名的《悟真篇》，教會世人“性命雙修”，提倡人與自身、與社會、與自然的“和合”，更成就了天臺山的養(yǎng)生之名。

中華第一高瀑天臺山大瀑布，高325米，最寬100米，位于素稱仙山的桐柏山上，史稱桐柏瀑布、三井瀑布。大瀑布自古有之，早在東晉就名聞天下，大文豪孫綽在其擲地有聲的《游天臺山賦》中描述“瀑布飛流以界道”，自古便是天臺的地標(biāo)性景觀。天臺山大瀑布為九級瀑布群，游人可沿瀑布溯流而上，可從瀑布下穿瀑而過，還可以從瀑布上翻越而過，可謂遠(yuǎn)近高低各不同，時而雄壯、時而舒緩，不論從哪個角度欣賞都能領(lǐng)略到不一般的景致。

天下第一奇觀石梁飛瀑，穿越“萬山關(guān)鍵”天然石橋，直下深潭，轟鳴聲回響在紅楓翠竹圍繞的幽谷里。石梁的奇險，徐霞客最為刻骨銘心，當(dāng)年親涉瀑上石梁，雖“毛骨俱悚”，卻流連忘返。瀑布下是五百羅漢的總道場所在地方廣寺，還有一條瑰麗的浙東唐詩之路，可謂自然山水和佛教文化相得益彰。站在飛濺的瀑下，聽聽風(fēng)聲、水聲、蟲鳥聲，聲聲悅耳，卻無聲不寂;看看月色、山色、云霞色，色色動人，卻有色皆空。

“不與眾山同一色，敢于平地拔千仞?！迸_岳南門標(biāo)志赤城山，遠(yuǎn)遠(yuǎn)望去，山色赤赭如火，山形狀如城堡。每當(dāng)晨曦初露，滿山霞光籠罩，蔚為壯觀。紫云洞內(nèi)的青燈木魚，悟月樓里的濟(jì)公書聲，第六洞天的道骨仙風(fēng)，還有山頂?shù)牧哄?，仿佛都在贊嘆著這個佛道雙棲之地的和諧與圓融。

對于去過瓊臺仙谷的人來說，瓊臺是一幅畫，而對于沒有去過瓊臺的人來說，這里則是一個夢。跟隨周靈王太子王喬走進(jìn)瓊臺仙谷，一路皆是奇峰怪石、飛瀑碧潭，一步一景，猶如一幅徐徐展開的畫卷。王喬在此駕鶴升仙，而來過這里的人則被這里深深吸引，穿仙府、過廊橋，尋雙闕，登仙臺，徜徉山水間，久久不肯離去！

登頂千米高山華頂峰，萬千風(fēng)景美不勝收，千米高山育千年杜鵑成千花一樹，是華夏一絕，每年五月，花開荼蘼，燦若云霞。人們不僅迷醉于“杜鵑、云海、日出、霧凇”這華頂“四絕”，還將當(dāng)年葛玄手植的古茶種帶到杭州、福建，帶往海外各處，于是，天臺山云霧茶便有了“江南茶祖、韓日茶源”的美譽(yù)。春觀杜鵑夏避暑、秋看日出冬賞雪，天然氧吧，養(yǎng)肺養(yǎng)胃，養(yǎng)心養(yǎng)神。

“鞋兒破，帽兒破，身上的袈裟破”，一曲《濟(jì)公》傳遍大江南北，而在800年前，這位被后人尊為“活佛”的濟(jì)公就降生在天臺的永寧村?！盁o我利他”是濟(jì)公留給我們的智慧，他至今仍被眾多信徒狂熱地追隨著，尤其是中國臺灣、東南亞的信徒，更是絡(luò)繹不絕地登臨天臺山。

此外，有著小黃山之稱的龍穿峽景區(qū)，夢幻清澈，自然風(fēng)光無限好。中國最美鄉(xiāng)村，國家4A級后岸鄉(xiāng)居景區(qū)猶如世外桃源，山清水秀。國家4A級景區(qū)南屏鄉(xiāng)有南黃古道、民國古居、百年洋房，極具韻味。雷峰鄉(xiāng)激情谷景區(qū)，四季有景，四季可游。龍溪鄉(xiāng)真山真水真空氣，原汁原味原風(fēng)情。還有張思古村、泳溪稻香梯田……多姿多彩的天臺山鄉(xiāng)村旅游目的地是旅客放松心情、盡享天倫的好去處。

佛宗道源? 唐詩之路

大八景，小八景，有名有姓三十景，無名無姓數(shù)不清……與其說是天臺美景迭出，不如說她透出的是一種人生境界——時迷時覺的境界。不過，無論是哪一種境界，看到的那一刻，便是一種心動！“龍樓鳳闕不肯住，飛騰直欲天臺去”，這就是天臺山給予李白的心動。

天臺自三國吳時期開始建縣，因頂對三辰而得名，距今已有1800多年的歷史了。這里是佛教天臺宗發(fā)祥地、道教南宗創(chuàng)立地、活佛濟(jì)公出生地、詩僧寒山隱居地、唐詩之路目的地、霞客游記開篇地、五百羅漢應(yīng)真地、羲之書法悟道地、劉阮桃源遇仙地、和合文化發(fā)祥地。千百年來，神奇的天臺山，譜寫著一曲恢弘的山水與文化的交響樂。

美麗神奇的天臺山水，自然也引發(fā)了文人墨客的向往。東晉時期，“書圣”王羲之奔赴華頂山，跟著白云道長學(xué)書“永字八法”，使天臺山成為書法的源頭;山水詩鼻祖謝靈運(yùn)率100余人大型團(tuán)隊(duì)開啟的“越臺旅游線”，成為后來游人的經(jīng)典線路。唐朝幾百年，杜甫、孟浩然、王維等400余位詩人，用詩歌踏出一條著名的“唐詩之路”，天臺山便是這條“唐詩之路”的目的地。而1613年暮春（5月19日），那個雨后新霽的早晨，“游圣”徐霞客首游天臺山，而且一連三游，兩寫《游天臺山日記》，還將其中一篇赫然置于《徐霞客游記》的篇首，“5·19中國旅游日”便因此誕生。

早在佛教初傳中國的東漢時期，天臺山已有佛教活動。東晉興寧年間，敦煌高僧曇猷入天臺山，建萬年寺、方廣寺及赤城山諸寺院。深山藏古寺，參天古木間回響的佛號經(jīng)聲，時常讓人感嘆，這才是“可以寄存靈魂”的地方！與佛教相比，道家的返璞歸真，自然圓融，更加迎合現(xiàn)代人的喜好。在這里，靜聽道長論道，學(xué)得幾招養(yǎng)生之術(shù)，讓人瞬間有種得道成“仙”的感覺。

佛道文化在天臺山的融合也催生了和合文化的傳承和發(fā)展。所謂和合的和，指和諧、和平、祥和;合指結(jié)合、融合、合作。千百年來，和合文化不僅僅影響著天臺人，還像磁鐵一樣吸引著全世界的奇人異士，或漂洋過海、或爬山涉水，前來探索、前來感悟。隨著時間的洗禮，“和合文化”歷久彌新，煥發(fā)出別樣魅力。

和合圣地? 六養(yǎng)身心

當(dāng)如梭的光陰，把我們帶到休閑旅游不斷勃興的今天，這座立縣近1800年的浙東名邑，煥發(fā)出了新的生機(jī)，一座現(xiàn)代化和合之城呼之欲出。我們發(fā)現(xiàn)，這里依然是最適宜靈魂和腳步憩息的地方：養(yǎng)眼、養(yǎng)肺、養(yǎng)胃、養(yǎng)腦、養(yǎng)心、養(yǎng)神！

如今，這里是國家級風(fēng)景名勝區(qū)、國家5A級旅游景區(qū)、國家級生態(tài)旅游示范區(qū)、全國休閑農(nóng)業(yè)與鄉(xiāng)村旅游示范縣，全國生態(tài)旅游示范區(qū)、“中國十大名山”之一、“浙江旅游發(fā)展十佳縣”，是人們休閑養(yǎng)生旅游度假目的地。

這個森林覆蓋率70%以上的國家級生態(tài)縣，滿目奇花異木，遍布林泉瀑布，讓肺和心靈一起清洗。走走千年古道，騎上快樂單車，在醉人美景中感受一份自在與輕松。探訪于張思古村、嬉戲于后岸農(nóng)家樂，賞楓于南黃古道、漂流于雷峰山溪，喚起久遠(yuǎn)的鄉(xiāng)愁記憶。漫步在千年古城的尋常巷陌，尋找鐵皮石斛、烏藥、黃精這些遺落在人間的“仙草”，體會仙人養(yǎng)生的妙境。嘗一嘗餃餅筒、水晶蛋糕，品一品特色素齋，赴一場美妙的“舌尖之約”。

這是一方穿越千年的人間仙境，也是人們尋找心靈依托的人間樂土。在天臺與歷史重逢，與曾經(jīng)來過這里的先輩們一起品讀她，讀她的山水可以清心，讀她的文史可以益智，讀她的街巷阡陌，讀她的煙雨村落……一眼萬年，穿越時空，與這方神秀山水達(dá)成一份心靈的默契，與過往的千年歲月互換一個會心的笑眼，成就一個不滅的天臺山傳奇。

Tiantai Moutain：

A Perfect Retreat

By Chen Mian

In the east of Zhejiang province lies a great mountain chain called Tiantai， which stretches over hundreds of miles， winding all the way to the coast of East China Sea. It is an ancient land of magic， where scenic spots are scattered like pearls and embedded into the picturesque landscape. For tourists， strolling in this National Scenic Area is a good way to ease their body and mind.

Tiantai is also the name of a mountain in the mountain chain， which is made a national 5A-level tourist attraction. It covers an area of 187 square kilometers， and is home to hundreds of tourist sites. Tiantai Mountain is mysterious geographically， for being a part of the most mystic scenery corridor at 30 degrees parallel north; and it is mysterious culturally， for its close relationship with Buddhism and Taoism.

Guoqing Temple， for instance， a 1，400-year-old Buddhism temple built in Sui dynasty （581-618）， is known as the birthplace of Tiantai Sect. Recognized as the first Buddhism Sect in China， it was founded by Master Zhiyi. Later， its doctrines were spread abroad mainly to Korea and Japan， and significantly influenced the development of Buddhism in these two countries.

Tongbai Monastery is the cradle for Southern Taoism， where Ge Xuan （164-244）， the “Old Immortal Ge of the Utmost Extreme”， practiced his alchemy in late Han （202 BC-220 AD）， and the remarkable Zhang Boduan （987-1082） wrote his magnum opus Wuzhen Pian （Awakening to Reality）.

The natural beauty in Tiantai Mountain is just as impressive. Grand Waterfall， a signature scenic spot of Tiantai Mountain since olden times， is the highest waterfall in China. This 325-meter-tall， 100-meter-wide waterfall spurts from Tongbai Peak， running down in nine steps. Visitors are able to get different views from walking along the footpaths to go upwards， go through the bottom， or cross the top of the waterfall.

Shiliang Waterfall， or Fall of the Stone Beam， is a marvelous destination for adventure. In the scenic area， tourists could walk across a stone bridge before heading towards a sunken pool while hearing echoes from secluded valleys. Beneath the waterfall is Fangguang Temple， which is dedicated to the 500 Arhats， and the magnificent Tang Poetry Road in East Zhejiang， a perfect combination of nature and Buddhist culture. Chicheng Mountain， another signature scenic spot， resembles a fiery red castle when looked at a distance;and Qiongtai Fairy Valley is such a dreamland with countless attractions where people tend to linger.

Huading Peak， the main peak of the Tiantai Mountain with a height of over 1，000 meters， fascinates tourists by its seasonal beauty： the cheerful azaleas in spring， the refreshing cool weather in summer， the beautiful sunrises in autumn， and the captivating snow in winter. It is also well known for a local green tea called Yunwu， namely “clouds and mists”.

Yet Tiantai Mountain is not only about landscape. It is also about the realm of life， the spiritual world.

The establishment of Tiantai county， where Tiantai Mountain is located， could be traced back to the State of Wu （229-280） in the Three Kingdoms period （220-280）. With a history of over 1，800 years， the county is the cradle of the Tiantai Sect of Buddhism and the Southern Taoism， the birthplace of Ji Gong （1130-1209） the “Living Buddha”， and an epiphanic place for the 500 Arhats. Different as they are， Buddhism and Taoism have co-existed in a peaceful and complementary way， in that the former is purely spiritual and the latter advocates a simple， balanced thus modern way of living. This has cultivated the “Hehe” （Harmony and Cooperation） culture for Tiantai， which attracts travelers worldwide.

The glamor of Tiantai Mountain appeals to domestic literati as well. In East Jin dynasty （317-420）， Wang Xizhi （303-361）， “Sage of Calligraphy”， went to Huading Peak to learn “the Eight Principles of Yong”; Xie Lingyun （385-433）， the pioneer of Chinas landscape poetry， led a team of a hundred there and developed his own traveling route for descendants to follow.

Then in the Tang dynasty （618-907）， over 400 poets， including Du Fu （712-770）， Meng Haoran （689-740） and Wang Wei （701-761）， “opened” a Tang Poetry Road with their poems， and Tiantai Mountain stood as its destination. In the late spring of 1613， the great travel writer and geographer Xu Xiake （1587-1641） visited there for the first time， then came back twice later and penned the “Diaries of Traveling Tiantai Mountain”. Xu even put it in the first chapter of his famous book—Travel Notes of Xu Xiake， which， incidentally， also becomes the inspiration for Chinas National Tourism Day， which falls on May 19.

Facing todays boom of leisure tourism， the Hehe culture of Tiantai resonates with and invigorates the historic county towards modernization. Rich in tourism resources， it is a popular destination for good reasons. With a forest coverage higher than 70%， this National Ecological County is able to give its visitors a unique relaxing experience： strolling among different kinds of flowers and trees， and being surrounded by streams and waterfalls is certainly refreshing both for the body and the soul， so are walking or riding a bike on ancient paths through villages， and going water rafting in beautiful valleys; collecting Chinese medicinal herbs and tasting local delicacies are also exciting activities not to be missed.

For those seeking a peace of mind， Tiantai is the place to be. It is a bridge connecting the present and the past， transcending time and space. A visit there magically brings us back to the times of the wise sages， who seem to be joining us in admiring the stunning sceneries， and reading the legendary stories of Tiantai that will never end.