楠溪美食好滋味

“江頭風(fēng)景日堪醉，酒美蟹肥橙橘香?！彼稳苏嫔矫裨凇队兰吻锵Α吩娭懈锌?，楠溪江頭，不僅風(fēng)景讓人沉醉，當?shù)氐拿谰啤⒎市?、橙橘更是讓人癡醉。

永嘉顯名始于東晉，隋朝設(shè)永嘉縣，取“水長而美”之意。那水，便是楠溪江，江上鷗鳥出沒，兩岸青山疊翠，竹樹茂密，景色如畫。這里有江南最美的水路，更有楠溪江的山珍和永嘉當?shù)鬲毺氐拿耖g小吃。游楠溪江畔，步青山之間，品特色美食，怎一個好字了得！

The name of Yongjia began to be known in the Eastern Jin dynasty （317-420）， and it became a county in the Sui dynasty （581-618）. Literally “l(fā)ong and beautiful river”， Yongjia is notable for its picturesque scenery， with the Nanxi River， from which Yongjia derived its name， coursing through the county from north to south. One of the most beautiful Jiangnan （south of the Yangtze River） waterways， the Nanxi River is lined with green mountains and lush bamboo forests on both sides. “The scenery at the river head gets people drunk， with fine wine， fat crabs， oranges so sweet，“ a poet writes of Yongjia. While travelling， dont forget to try local treats and delicacies， and learn about its culinary traditions that can only be found in Yongjia and along the Nanxi River！

永嘉麥餅

Yongjia Wheat Cake

永嘉麥餅已經(jīng)有1000余年的歷史，由花坦村朱氏先人所創(chuàng)。當?shù)囟嗌车兀朔N麥，百姓將麥磨成面粉，以麥粉包裹咸菜和鮮肉煎烤而成，遂名麥餅，具有形體大、餅皮厚、餡料豐富、經(jīng)多次煎烤的特點，因味道鮮美而受到歡迎。

隨著朱氏子弟向全國擴散，吃麥餅的習(xí)慣也逐漸走向了全國，麥餅作為一種價廉物美的小吃被各地接受。如江西婺源朱氏九代孫朱熹，是宋朝著名的理學(xué)大師，就喜歡吃麥餅，有一次他到某儒生家做客，儒生特地為他制作了以麥餅為飯，以蔥湯為羹，以此來款待朱熹。朱熹食后口占一絕：“蔥湯麥飯兩相宜，蔥暖丹田麥療饑。”

《明史》記載，嘉靖皇帝時，為了表達對先祖的懷念和對糧食豐收的渴望，把四月八日的不落夾改為麥餅，自此，麥餅正式成為大明王朝宴席的主角，稱為麥餅宴。至今，在各地的溫州人，思念家鄉(xiāng)的時候，就會想起家鄉(xiāng)的麥餅。

With over a history of over 1，000 years， Yongjia wheat cake was believed to be first made by the Zhu family in Huatan village. Instead of rice， the local soil is more suited for wheat， which， when harvested， is ground into flour. Wrap pickles and fresh meat into flour doughs and then fry and bake them several times， you get the wheat cakes.

One big fan of the wheat cakes is Zhu Xi （1130-1200）， philosopher and one of the most influential Neo-Confucianists. Another one is Emperor Jiajing （1507-1567） of the Ming dynasty （1368-1644）， who even designated wheat cakes as a dish of the imperial banquets.

Over the years， as the descendants of the Zhu family brought the wheat cake to different places， it has become a national favorite.

楠溪素面

Nanxi Plain Noodle

亦稱索面，是一種易消化的面條，對腸胃有益，適合小孩和老人食用。其直徑通常小于1.3毫米，溫州各縣均有制作，而以歷史悠久論，首推永嘉。因永嘉在楠溪江流域，鄉(xiāng)人稱為楠溪素面。

素面做好后，要在陽光下暴曬幾天。此時，村前院墻上掛滿了白色素面。細絲翻飛、素面飄飄的景致令人十分賞心悅目，堪稱楠溪一景。南宋末年，永嘉民族英雄陳虞之在南崖扎寨抗元時，就曾用“白紙代素面晾在竹竿上”計退圍攻的元軍，成為古今美談。

楠溪沿江居民歷來將素面視為食中上品，常以素面招待客人。素面味冷而清，可浸于肉湯或丸子中，亦可下至醬油中，而不澆于其他食物之上。醬油通常是鰹海鮮味，可以與大蔥、生姜以及青蒜，搭配出絕妙的口感。

在永嘉農(nóng)村，過去人們走親訪友時常以素面相贈。在婦女坐月子時，做外婆的免不了要提上一長筒籃交疊成“8”字形的素面，俗稱為“長壽面”，以討吉利。而媒人在說媒成功之后，常會美滋滋地去新娘家喝“素面湯”。

Easily digestible and good for your stomach and intestines， the noodle is suitable for people of all ages， children and the elderly in particular， with a diameter usually less than 1.3 mm. While the noodle is made in every county of Wenzhou， the Yongjia variety has the longest history， commonly referred to as the Nanxi plain noodle because of the Nanxi River.

After the noodle is made， it needs to be hung in the sun for a few days. During this time， the walls of the courtyards in the villages are overflown with white noodles. Fluttering in the wind， these noodles become a scene itself to behold.

As a prized local specialty， the noodles are traditionally served to relatives， visitors， friends， and matchmakers， and usually taken together with gravy， meat balls or seafood-flavored soy sauce.

永嘉田魚

Yongjia Rice Paddy Fish

據(jù)傳說，三國吳時楠溪先祖就已利用稻田養(yǎng)魚，迄今已有1700多年的歷史。生長在稻田里的永嘉田魚，形似鯉魚，味勝鯽魚，鱗如金魚，色如金魚，是適合稻田養(yǎng)殖的優(yōu)良品種。它的食性雜，適應(yīng)性廣，繁殖力強，成活率高，生長快，肉質(zhì)嫩滑，營養(yǎng)豐富。

田魚味美、性和、肉細、鱗片軟。富含粗蛋白、微量元素和15種人體必需的氨基酸。有利于健腦、提高智力，具有健體、防衰老、防弱智、提高人體免疫力、美容等功能。田魚還是藥用魚類之一，能利尿、消腫。現(xiàn)在，永嘉縣以茗岙出產(chǎn)的田魚最為知名。

According to local tales， Yongjia people have been farming fish in rice paddies since the Three Kingdoms period （220-280）. It resembles carp in shape and tastes better than crucian carp， with a similar color and similar scales to gold fish. The rice paddy fish is in fact a variant of carp， easy to raise in paddy fields and rich in proteins， micronutrients and amino acids. It is also known for possessing a number of medicinal values.

金粉餃

“Gold Powder” Dumpling

金粉餃，也叫錦粉餃，是永嘉巖頭的特色美食，因楠溪江環(huán)境氣候宜種番薯，當?shù)厝藢⒎砑庸こ慑\粉，再以錦粉沉淀摻揉均勻制作而成，取盤菜、肉末、冬筍、豆腐、胡蘿卜等做餡，包成三角形（或半月形），隔水蒸熟。觀其外形如琥珀水晶一般，比普通的水餃個頭要大一些，吃的時候加熱調(diào)味，食之滑而不膩，嫩嫩的、香香的，入口有嚼勁。為冬至、春節(jié)或平時待客的佳品。

A local delicacy in Yantou township， “gold powder” dumplings are usually served to guests during winter solstice and the Chinese New Year. The wrappers are made of sweet potato starch， as the plant is abundantly available along the Nanxi River. The fillings are made of minced meat， winter bamboo shoots， tofu， carrots， among other things. Often wrapped in a triangle or half-moon， the “gold powder” dumplings are slightly larger than the regular ones， and， when fully steamed， look like amber stones. Hence the name “gold powder”.

永嘉早香柚

Yongjia Zaoxiang Pomelo

永嘉早香柚被譽為“柚中佳品”，果形猶似園蒲瓜，果皮薄而橙黃，果肉脆嫩多汁，甜而爽口，少籽。早在南宋，溫州府臺韓彥直就根據(jù)永嘉農(nóng)民栽植經(jīng)驗撰寫了我國最早的柑橘專著《橘錄》。柚為柑橘的一種，在永嘉農(nóng)戶房前屋后普遍栽植。但野生土拋多數(shù)結(jié)的果實苦澀多籽、品質(zhì)很差。而現(xiàn)在永嘉產(chǎn)的早香柚則外形美觀，果實營養(yǎng)豐富，享譽海內(nèi)外。

Also known as Yongjia Xiangpao， the Yongjia Zaoxiang pomelo is believed to be a variant of the more well-known Wendan pomelo. Similar in shape to calabash or gourd， the Zaoxiang pomelo is thin in skin and sweet in taste， with juicy and crisp flesh and very few seeds.

楠溪螺螄湯

Nanxi River Snail Soup

楠溪江水質(zhì)好，常年清澈甘冽，游魚可見。小螺螄在這樣優(yōu)質(zhì)的溪水環(huán)境里長大，爬附在溪底的石頭上，自然干凈，屬于一道純天然的“有機”食品。從溪里抓來小螺螄后，在清水里滴上幾滴菜油，讓小螺螄養(yǎng)上幾個小時。很快它就會吐干凈身上攜帶的泥沙，待清洗干凈，便可拿來煮湯。只須放一點蒜、姜，去腥味即可，再加一點當?shù)攸S酒。出鍋后，先喝湯，螺螄湯清淡、鮮美，略帶一點點苦味，真可謂是“人間有味是清歡”。剩下的螺螄則以牙簽挑肉食之，味鮮爽口。

Growing upon the river bed rocks in Nanxi River， the river snails here are considered one of the most natural and organic food， as the water is so lucid and crystal clear that not only fish can be seen， it is actually drinkable. After catching the river snails， put them in water with a few drops of vegetable oil and wait for a few hours before they spit out the soil and sediment stored in their bodies. They are then ready to be made into soup after a final round of cleaning. Only some garlic and ginger will be needed to remove the fishy smell， apart from a little local cooking wine. When everything is fully cooked， always try the light and fresh soup first， before tasting the flesh.

農(nóng)家烤全羊

Home-made Roasted Whole Lamb

烤全羊在楠溪江可以說是很有口碑的，可以在龍灣潭、嶺上人家和獅子巖吃到。全羊烤出來后，皮非常薄，香味從里面散發(fā)出來，甚至連骨頭也是非常脆的，非常好吃。永嘉縣鶴盛鎮(zhèn)羅川村，有個保留400多年歷史的田園古村落叫“嶺上人家”。該村背山面溪，四周山色青翠欲滴，空氣清新，有“天然氧吧”之稱。除了景色美，特色美食也非常豐富。其中，最令人垂涎的是外脆里嫩、油而不膩的烤全羊。每逢周末，全村農(nóng)家樂幾乎爆滿?？救蛞殉蔀閹X上人家的一大特色。

Roasted whole lamb is quite popular in some areas of the Nanxi River. When the whole lamb is fully roasted， its skin is so thin that the flavors come directly from the inside. Even the bones are crisp and chewy. In Luochuan village， Hesheng township， an ancient hamlet with a history of over 400 years called “Lingshang Renjia”， or Families on the Mountainside， is particularly known for the dish. Back against the mountains and facing the Nanxi Rvier， the hamlet is enveloped by a “natural oxygen bar” and the lambs raised there are among the best. During weekends， family-run restaurants are always full of customers seeking to get a bite of the tender lamb.

楠溪江香魚干

Nanxi River Dried Sweetfish

楠溪江香魚，聞名已久，素有“淡水魚之王”的美譽。明萬歷年間便有記載：香魚“長三四寸，味佳而無腥，生清流，惟十月時有，與樂產(chǎn)少異”。它個頭不大，一條重約二三兩至半斤左右，頭小嘴尖，體披細鱗，背部灰黑，腹部銀白色，魚肉細嫩多脂，味鮮且有香味，是名貴的經(jīng)濟魚類，曾為皇家貢品。

在楠溪江一帶，漁民捕到香魚基本上都會將它曬成魚干再食用，只有經(jīng)過烘焙，香魚才能散發(fā)出它獨有的香味。先把魚背剖開，放在鐵絲匾或竹篾上曬干，再用文火細煙慢慢熏焙，直至烤成金黃色取出，海內(nèi)外聞名的香魚干就大功告成了。

楠溪人家做香魚干菜肴，通常為清燉白燒，不需要太多的材料和復(fù)雜的工序。慢慢地嚼著香魚干，唇齒之間有一股淡淡的卻鮮甘繞舌的魚香味，猶如楠溪江水那般言有盡而意無窮，別有一番風(fēng)味。

Called the “king of freshwater fishes”， the Nanxi River sweetfish has long been known. Records from the Wanli period （1573-1620） of Ming dynasty described the species thus： the sweetfish “is usually three to four cun [10-14 centimeters] in length， fresh in taste and with no fishy smell; it lives in clear streams and only to be found in October [Chinese lunar calendar].”

A sweetfish generally weighs between 100 and 250 grams， with a small head and a pointed mouth， its back black and belly silver white. In the past， sweetfish used to be presented as tribute to the imperial court. Along the Nanxi River， fishermen often dry and bake the sweetfish for food， as the unique sweetness of its flesh can only be released through this method.