Hear the voices of the world

BRAZIL

Contributor:CARLOS SIMOES,Textilia

SOLIDARITY FIRST

A new way of doing things

Te numbers leave no doubt about the seriousness of the Brazilian economic situation due to the COVID-19 pandemic, even though the government tries to mask the crisis. The Brazilian Association of the Textile and Clothing Industry (ABIT), reflecting the apprehension of its members and the risk of collapse of production systems,has voiced its concern. It should be remembered that the textile and clothing sectors here employ 1.5 million people directly and a massive total of 8 million indirectly!

Te Brazilian textile and clothing sectors are working hard to overcome the seriousness of the situation. We are feeling a sense of vulnerability but using technology to organize information and the entire social protection network to face the virus. Te way out of this crisis is closely linked to government actions, but also to the private sector within its own powers and possibilities. Solidarity is a keyword!

Te virus has impacted consumer behavior. A move to conscious consumption is emerging with basic necessities prioritized; consumers are becoming increasingly adept with e-commerce. This will further pressurize physical retail, which will have to emerge onto the postpandemic scenario with a more imaginative strategy for reaching consumers and their new needs. Meanwhile, entrepreneurs are looking for alternatives among local suppliers to replace demand hitherto met by imports. 2021 is being discussed as the year of recovery and 2022 as that of effective growth. To achieve that, the Brazilian textile chain will have to change: faster processing, decrease in inventories, and more sustainable machinery will be needed.

The Economic Center of S?o Paulo

INTERTWINING!

Doing it in a better way

It is true that major crises are seen as important turning points in society, as they bring to light new realities not recognized before. Looking at the environment,social movement, humanizing, connecting and intertwining are the new challenges for brands. And several Brazilian designers see the presence of love, spirituality,collectivity, cooperation, and “doing it in a better way” as instruments of creativity for their collections.

The recognized national brands include: Ricardo Almeida, Animale, Gloria Coelho, Le Lis Blanc, Reinaldo Louren?o, Osklen and Lino Linaventura. The designer,Flavia Aranha, has strong work focused on sustainability,taking care of the origin of all inputs in the textile chain and embracing the circular economy.

We see a more demanding and digitally aware consumer coming. Brands that know how to be collaborative at this time of crisis will have a special place in the minds and hearts of consumers. Tose who know how to connect with the new needs of people will be reborn and survive.

Te big Brazilian brands are very focused on issues like seasonality and collection size and thinking about abandoning the traditional fashion calendar and going“seasonless” . Other professionals believe that, with the slowdown of the pandemic, people, in search of the joy of living, will want to shop, party, be entertained and dress in colors and festive clothing. After all, “the show must go on” !

FIRM STEPS TOWARDS SUSTAINABILITY

Growing interest in the purchase of sustainable,vintage clothing

The Brazilian industry is already taking firm steps towards sustainability and this bodes well for brands and consumers. Consumer interest in sustainable fashion has increased dramatically and is reflected in their growing interest in sustainable, vintage clothing and the use of clothing rental services. Tey care about waste, and the origin and disposal of materials.

Designers have sought to insert sustainability into fashion by investing in the search for new materials and in the reuse of fabrics, supported by recycling and organic based industries.

The COVID-19 pandemic has spurred brands and entrepreneurs to investigate many changes. Large retailers and brands are now looking for more efficient and responsible supply chains as they come to understand that consumers are demanding a more direct and closer relationship with labels as they grow more concerned about sustainability, waste reduction and the circular economy.

Various textile industries, including jeanswear, clothing and home textiles are well advanced in the field of sustainability. These include: Vicunha Textil S/A, Denim Eco Absolut Refibra, Ricardo Almeida, Osklen.

CHINA

Contributor:ZHONG MENGXIA,CHINA TEXTILE

POSITIVE ATTITUDES

The chance to transform

In the first half year of 2020, there is no doubt that China’s textile and garment exports have been affected by the pandemic. However, exports of China’s industrial textiles (masks, protective clothing, disinfectant wipes,etc.) increased by 79.6 percent from January to April compared to the previous year.

Although this pandemic is a heavy blow to many enterprises, it is also an opportunity for enterprises to transform and upgrade. For example, some enterprises are already researching and developing new technologies and some antibacterial products. Every cloud has a silver lining. In general, manufacturers still have confidence in the future.

COMFORT FIRST

The rise of street style

Comfortable casual and leisure-oriented clothes have taken over formal wear as the mainstream choice of dressing for Chinese consumers. In addition, clothes with some special points in the design are also popular.Of course, during the pandemic, face masks were at the heart of the accessory market.

What’s more, streetwear is warmly welcomed among young people, especially as the cultures and trends of different countries are converging and crossing over to each other. Right now street snap and outdoor live-streamings in China are flourishing, and young people like to wear fashionable clothes on the street. At present, slightly loose silhouettes and colourful clothes are the most popular looks with the young. What’s important for them is to show a more unique, personal attitude to dressing.

VINTAGE & SUSTAINABILITY

More and more Chinese consumers are looking to sustainability

Although sustainable clothing is still in its infancy in China, sales have increased a great deal in the past few years, which shows how people are paying increased attention to environmental issues. In terms of retail, this can be seen in the increased number of second-hand clothing stores and vintage shops being opened in big and medium-sized cities.Consumers see the purchase of second-hand clothes not just as a vote for the environment but as a fashion statement.

As is known, online stores form a huge part of the Chinese market and their development continues to blossom. Some of these do a very good job concerning sustainability. For example, there is HowBottle,a brand that specializes in making clothes from waste plastic bottles.REVERB by JNBY uses fishing nets and other ocean waste to make recycled nylon to manufacture clothes and bags; it also makes dresses with recycled cashmere. These are just two examples that show how more and more people are really concerned about sustainable development.

FRANCE

Contributor:OLIVIER GUYOT,Fashion Network

E-COMMERCE GAINED

The lockdown validated the shift to omni-channel business

Stores were closed March 17 to May 11. In April, the IFM Economic Observatory estimated that sales of apparel and textile products had collapsed by 74.6%: sales on the internet, on the other hand, had grown by 22%compared to 2019. Te lockdown clearly validated the shift to omni-channel business.

Big international e-commerce players like Amazon(even if strikes in France slowed its activity), Zalando or Farfetch as well as digital native, vertical brands with a strong community such as Sezane seem to have scored a lot. Retailers who invested in their digital platform before the pandemic, i.e. Celio in the mass market, Te Kooples and Ba&Sh in the contemporary segment or Balenciaga in luxury also benefited.

However, one month after the end of the lockdown, consumers are coming back to the stores. We don’t really see any ‘Revenge Shopping’, but brands and retailers are seeing growing traffic week after week. In Paris, Galeries Lafayette and Printemps finally reopened their department stores on Boulevard Haussmann at the end of May. That was a really positive signal for all the brands sold on their floors, big and small, established and new alike.

KIDS COME FIRST

T-shirts and dresses lead the way

It is clear that the kids business has had a great rebound during May. Parents needed to update their children’s wardrobe for the summer. During the lockdown,there was a great appetite for loungewear, sweatshirts and leggings. Now, dresses and T-shirts are the most sought-after products as consumers rush to enjoy the summer outside. Overall, however, it’s hard to identify clear-cut trends. Some brands bet on colorful products,but most of the players say that they won’t take too many risks in their collections for the next few seasons.

One thing for sure: brands and designers who have been proactive in communicating with their community during the lockdown are in a better position to grow again. After months of non-commercially focused communication via newsletter and social networks, they are now able to come back to their clients with offers and invite them back into their stores without sounding ruthlessly commercial.

A GOVERNMENT CONCERN

Is the supply chain ready for a big switch?

Te French government is on a mission to encourage reshoring and production in France. During the lockdown, many players in the french textile Industry worked together to produce masks. That was a great made in France moment and the government wants to capitalize on the momentum created. Tis mission, led by Guillaume de Seynes, president of the Strategy Industry Committee (Comité stratégique de filière mode et luxe) not only wants to investigate building production in France but also to create new models for french industry centered on eco-design,recycled materials, reuse and production on demand.

Meanwhile, during the lockdown, brands leaders also looked deeper into sustainability approaches not just through reshoring but also by trying to improve the role of eco-friendly materials in their lines. So, we’ll probably see an acceleration on this front, but there are also big grey areas. How can young designers and small eco-focused brands keep sourcing responsibly if they have to compete with fashion giants? Is the supply chain ready for a big switch? If consumers have less disposable income after the pandemic, will they still be concerned about sustainability and, above all, will they be ready to pay for it?

GERMANY

Contributors:IRIS SCHLOMSKI,JOACHIM SCHIRRMACHER,Textile Network

ONLINE BOOM

Bricks-and-mortar retail sales are still high

For the German take on the fashion industry, we spoke to Joachim Schirrmacher, a respected authority on the German and international fashion industry. Based in Berlin, Joachim Schirrmacher works as a creative consultant and author. He chairs the Advisory Board of the German Fashion Industry Foundation – SDBI and is the director of the European Fashion Awards FASH, promoting young talent. He was a member of the board of the German Society for Design Teory and Research – DGTF.

Online shops are booming. Zalando and Highsnobiety from Berlin, Mytheresa from Munich and the Otto Group with its more than 100 companies, like About You. Otto is widely considered the second biggest online trading company in the world, but in contrast to Amazon or Zalando,it has almost always been profitable. There are several new online stores specifically for fair fashion, such as the wearness.

And we shouldn’t forget the bricks-and-mortar retailers. It wasn’t until they had to close during lockdown that we became aware of just how high their sales are.

SPORTWEAR EVER MORE IMPORTANT

Sportiness is a key element in the fight for jobs,partners and status

Sport and streetwear have had a strong commercial footing in Germany for decades and they’re still experiencing growth. Tis is reflected in the turnover of corporations such as Adidas and Puma, and in the world’s leading trade fairs: ISPO and Outdoor for sport, and previously Interjeans in Cologne and Bread and Butter for jeans and streetwear.

By implementing a “smart-casual” dress code, companies want to be perceived as attractive employers. And even today’s pensioners prefer the Rolling Stones to classical concerts and Acne jeans rather than slacks. Health and physicality have become even more important since the coronavirus reared its head. Every form of fashion is having to embrace this new sense of freedom.

Of course, this doesn’t mean that everyone’s walking around in joggers. On the contrary, people want to live life to the full, and they want to take pleasure in the power of beauty. Even before the pandemic, there was a perceived longing to dress up rather than down. But if you wear a suit today, it’s more likely to be casual – à la Nicolas Bos of Van Cleef & Arpels – and not because you have to but because you want to. Although we’re always talking about the globalization of trends, here in Berlin there’s a different look in every neighbourhood. Life is much more diverse than is perhaps reflected by the fashion media and brands.

A LUXURY DESTINATION

In Germany luxury is associated with respectability and quality

Joachim Schirrmacher,? Bernhard Ludewig/SDBI

Julian Zigerli,working in collaboration with artist Katharina Grosse.? Laurent Burst

Germany is an important market for luxury goods,even though luxury is rarely celebrated here and tends to have a rather clean appearance, reminiscent of the“Murkudis” concept store. Brands such as Mercedes,Miele, Rimowa and A. Lange & S?hne are revered as luxury goods internationally, but in Germany they are associated with respectability and quality.

When it comes to German based designers, the field is led mostly by niche products such as those by Acronym, Iris von Arnim, Diehm Bespoke, Horror Vacui,Mykita, Odeeh, Nobi Talai or 032c. You’ll also find German designers working for almost every international fashion house, often as head of department.

STRUCTURES MATTER!

We urgently need more resources for research and development in fashion

If we want to shape the future of fashion, we need to talk about structures, not the latest it-bag. We’ve been trying for more than 20 years to tackle problems such as comparable product ranges, overproduction, discounting wars or ever faster rhythms with far too many fashion weeks. Fashion is no longer a culture, fashion is just business, and one that is dominated by a few corporations.

Interestingly, several open letters addressing these issues have appeared in recent weeks, e.g. from Armani,Dries van Noten and Business of Fashion. However, so long as investors continue to expect short-term returns,the sad truth is that the debate about alternative systems may simply vanish into the ether. Te shift to more sustainable systems of transport is already demonstrating just how difficult fundamental change can be.

With 16 textile research Institutes, Germany is a world-leading force in research and has everything it needs for fashion of the 21st century. However, the thinking and research focus here is on technology.Preference is given to the automotive industry, aviation and aerospace, medical engineering, construction or sustainability.

These institutions have little or no appreciation for fashion. In Germany, design is not firmly embedded in our system of innovation. We need to bring together the areas of design, engineering, communication, and distribution. Tey need to find a common language and invent completely new working methods, which in turn will require interface management and facilitators.

A Million Degrees” by Emigrate.? Gregor Hohenberg

Clean luxury at the Andreas Murkudis Concept Store in Berlin.? Thomas Meyer/Ostkreuz

PULLING TOGETHER

It’s really important for everyone to take many small steps

During the coronavirus crisis, we have seen what we can achieve together as a society. Tis gives us a glimmer of hope – if we all pull together again and make a concerted effort, fair fashion could become standard for wide sections of the population. We need clothing for 7.8 billion people rather than eco-luxury for the happy few.

The oil crisis of 1973 and the Club of Rome report entitled “The Limits to Growth” which appeared a year earlier, had the most far-reaching consequences for sustainable fashion – prompting three men in Germany to spring into action. Heinz Hess, Michael Otto and Klaus Steilmann, the founder of the SDBI Foundation, were instrumental in laying the modern-day foundations for fair fashion. However, all three men had family-run businesses and were prepared not only to invest but also to accept lower margins. Today, the majority of fashion companies are owned by investors, leading to plenty of announcements and small showcase projects. If they act sustainably then they are mostly motivated by the need for risk management.

It’s really important for everyone to take many small steps. We’re often given choices, both as consumers and in the workplace. From a political point of view, a ban on free returns, for example, would have a significant impact on sustainability. During this crisis, we have learned that a quick and pragmatic response is key and that not everything has to be perfect all the time.

Drykorn’s exhibition stand, Berlin Fashion Week 2020 .? Carl Tillessen

Flora Sophie Taubner and Lars Dittrich. 1st Prize FASH 2016.? Franco P Tettamanti; Creativ Direction: Joachim Schirrmacher

If the multi-million-dollar corporations acted a little more fairly and ecologically, their actions would probably have a far bigger impact than a small company that practices sustainability to perfection. If you take designers such as Haider Ackermann, Akris, Dries van Noten, Stella McCartney and Esther Perbandt, their fashion is rarely certified but is so individual that its owners will continue to enjoy their garments ten years down the line.

RE-EVALUATING WHAT WE HAVE

The greatest potential of all lies in the digitalization of processes

We have so much knowledge about materials, design, and production processes that we should rediscover and re-evaluate what we have. When it comes to fair fashion, we need to look far beyond the boundaries of upcycling and a sharing economy. In the textile segment,there’s recycled nylon or new types of viscose from Finland, for example.

Similarly, concepts like participatory design and open design systems offer huge potential. The same can be said for the social dimension of design which can lead to products that help Asian or African countries create their own added value – products they use and sell themselves. Design then becomes much more than just a sophisticated part of the luxury goods industry; it helps to make many people’s lives more fulfilling. We need more initiatives like the “Proudly Made in Bangladesh” project created by Engelbert Strauss. Tis family-run enterprise is setting up its own academy and a factory with fair working conditions in Chittagong.

Te greatest potential of all lies in the digitalization of processes. Examples range from Stoll’s 3-D knitting,which is being used very successfully by Falke Sport and Marc Cain, to the largely automated production processes at the Adidas Speed factory. These local miniature factories for local markets were to be installed all over the world – a production concept that would be a perfect match for the new fashion ethos of deglobalization and“See now, buy now”. All these facets could give rise to further innovations because new technologies and materials usually breed new designs.

Workshop European Fashion Award FASH 2019 “The Art of the Curve – Pattern Design from Draping to Digital” with CLO Virtual Fashion.

ITALY

Contributor:ANNA MARONCELLI,Zoom On Fashion Trends

UNCERTAINTY

A step by step approach to reviving the market

Because of the COVID-19 pandemic effects, there is absolute uncertainty across Italy at the moment: this not only involves the textile industry but the entire economic system. As proof of this, important events such as Pitti Immagine and the Milan Fashion Week have been canceled and others postponed, but no one is really sure whether they will actually take place. A possible look to the future of the textile industry comes from the implementation of digital platforms all being strongly promoted by many international exhibitions and shows at the moment. But, here we are talking about the first steps of something whose success can only be judged with time. So, it’s not possible to clearly define which sectors are currently doing better than others or whether a sustainable export scenario can be achieved in the near future. I think we should be taking a step by step approach in order to revive the market.

COMFORT MATTERS

Homewear attitudes in outdoor dressing!

Overall, what people are looking for at the moment is comfort. But in terms of actual looks, it’s a moment of polarization: on one hand, as they emerge from lockdown, consumers feel the desire to wear something distinctive, creative, colorful with look-at-me details – shorter skirts or frills and ruches as feminine details on simple garments is one idea,without daring too much; on the other hand, the need for reassuring and soothing shades and elegant basics prevails, together with easy. Comfortable shapes, where casualwear fuses with home and oungewear.

On the streets, in this first period of lockdown,consumers are clearly forsaking uncomfortable and over structured clothes in the desire to maintain a certain feeling of ease. Shopping for clothes and accessories is all about necessities, putting quality over quantity, and choosing luxury more consciously.

Color because of its mood-influencing properties is important! Other key issues are: comfort; simple but refined; precious details and playful elements; homewear influences into everyday outfits; utility wear; and elegant tech.

INCREASED AWARENESS

Progress but still much to do at consumer levels!

More and more people are becoming conscious about sustainability issues and the pandemic situation has only served to underline several aspects of them,not in part thanks to advertising and communication strategies taken by some of the brands. But, sales of sustainable clothing in Italy still form the minority part of the market by far, mostly because of poor consumer knowledge about the subject: results from surveys show that some people are aware of certain brands associated with sustainability, but, as the numbers show, don’t really know where to find the merchandise.

Recycled items, second hand and handmade is gaining popularity as independent and small shops and brands are winning more customers because of the boom in online shopping and social media. Some sustainable initiatives are being made by big brands so the topic is gaining higher visibility, but there’s still a lot to do. In recent years, finding such clothing is becoming easier, but still it’s not as affordable or popular as fast fashion.

Clearly, we will need more time to see sales growth.On the bright side, more small and big brands are making efforts to become increasingly sustainable in product and manufacturing and a lot of research is going on into raw materials.

Collina Strada

From left to right: Alex S Yu; Longshaw Ward; Womsh

From left to right: Nivule+Pesci Rossi; Par.co; fashion Wrad

INDIA

Contributor:ANNOU IYER,RTW Magazine

COUNTING ON THE DOMESTIC MARKET

India’s apparel industry amidst COVID-19

The COVID scenario is not just about sustaining fashion, brands or designers, it is about sustaining the textile mills, handloom weavers, handicrafts, dyers, tailors,designers, exporters and raw material producers.

Te current situation has brought the Indian apparel retail sector to a complete standstill. As India is a sourcing country, the textile and apparel exporters, too, have faced huge losses of order cancellations.

Te percentage of Indian designers is less than 1%as compared to the handloom & handicraft sectors in India. Tough a few of the Indian designers have somehow managed to convert their businesses recently for making cotton face masks, the real loss is the loss of work for 1000s of villages of weavers and handicrafts makers in India. The real responsibility is of sustaining their livelihoods through this time.

INDIAN FUSION WEAR

Celebrating heritage!

Indian fashion-conscious consumers, including millennials, are both celebrating their Indian heritage and are proving themselves global fashion followers. More than ever, India‘s consumers are busy localizing world trends and turning themselves into global nomads.

As the young Indian population – both women and men – are exploring their talent and having great careers,they are not holding back when it comes to expressing their choices through their dressing. I am glad to say that fashion in India is becoming more and more a tool of expression, less controlled by the old archetype directives though still controlled by awareness of body shape. And we even have a name for this – “Indian Fusion Wear”.

Fusion Wear is extremely popular in India as it is not confined to any trend or any body type. However, for me, more than ‘fusion’,it is really an ‘a(chǎn)nti-fit trend’ – an androgynous fashion style that combines both masculine and feminine characteristics. It’s an expression of the fashion freedom beloved of India at this moment!

Image from Dastkari Haat Samiti

FOLLOWING INDIAN TASTE

More local than global

According to a report by Technopak, the Indian retail market is expected to show a promising year-on-year growth of 6 percent to reach USD 865 billion, by 2023, from the current USD 490 billion. Te apparel share is 8%, corresponding to a value of USD 40 billion.

Te incredibly unique Indian wedding industry also adds to the overall growth. According to a 2017 KPMG report titled Market Study of Online Matrimony and Marriage Services in India, the marriage services industry is estimated to be worth approximately US $53.77 billion (Rs 3, 68,100cr).And Indian wedding wear plays an especially important role here.

International luxury brands that don’t succeed in India typically don’t match the aesthetic preferences of most Indian shoppers, which is far from easy to follow. Pucci, for example, entered India with its resort wear collection, while Hermès launched in 2011 in India with a Saree collection, which wealthy Indians were not willing to pay top dollar for.

India is the only market globally, which is more “l(fā)ocal” than “global” in terms of following trends. So, more and more young Indian designers are focusing on the domestic market which is vast. Tey don’t really cater to“Western Wear”, which is a completely different segment for them and better left to retail brands like Zara and HM in India with their cheap clothing and global styling.

Indian designers are sourcing made-in-India products that are sustainable, organic and contribute to the real Indian textiles fashion cycle and ecosystem. Tey are catering to Indo Fusion wear and Indian traditional wear such as Wedding Wear, sarees and salwar kameez and other traditional clothing. Even though some do cater to international markets, they mostly cater to non-resident Indians which is a huge population outside India or they end up catering to an international clientele, who like made-in-India looks and ensembles.

Adding a new language of modernity for women in India who want a minimalist alternative to traditional garments or designer formal wear. Bodice clothes are for the women“challenging conventions” in Indian society. Made with luxury textiles and time-consuming artisanal methods.

With characteristic silhouettes and layering, there is always a hint of self-exploration resulting in comfortable luxury wear with a lot of detailing and edge. Mostly textured linens and cottons with no embellishments, so the integrity of the fabric is maintained. A contemporary modern label with the ethos of simplicity intact.

The brand offers versions of luxury street style,working towards extending the line with womenswear –questioning and breaking stereotypes, exploring the idea of sexual liberation, celebrating body positivity, and focusing on sustainability. Recognizing the idea of expanded gender, the brand also offers non-binary clothing.

The brand incorporates western style silhouettes which can easily be amalgamated into Indian society.Translated from Hindi to mean “One”, Ikai introduces traditional Indian skills into a predominantly contemporary collection with androgynous silhouettes, structured cuts and delicate drapes.

Te collections are inspired by clean lines, geometric silhouettes and architectural forms and have an essence that stays feminine without being a doll; and oversized without looking like menswear. Japanese inspired,minimal fashion with experimental silhouettes and drapes, quirky graphics.

Indian Kitsch brand known for its ‘a(chǎn)rt translated’ design philosophy,breaking all boundaries with its individualistic ideas. Nida’s latest collection, Madam Marigold is an of ensemble of tradition and modern elements, focusing on eco-friendly sustainability with Ajrakh printing from Gujarat, natural dyes and attempts the analog technique to expose prints on textiles.

HISTORY OF HANDMADE

Eco-friendly or sustainable clothing is seeing steady growth

Eco-friendly or sustainable clothing has seen a steady growth in India. However, we must not forget that India has always had a rich history of consumption of handmade textiles, Indian cottons and linens, handlooms and natural/vegetable dyed fabrics.

They have always been a part of Indian culture: the idea of “Ecofriendly” or “Sustainable” may be new in western countries but this ideology has always been a part of Indian culture. Indian consumers have been much ahead in adopting sustainable fabrics as handloom qualities are primarily easy to find in India.

What has been a good step forward is that Indian manufacturers are adopting better global practices in terms of international certifications to produce clothes that leave little impact on the environment.

As Indian retail markets are being introduced to international fast fashion brands such as H&M, Zara or Uniqlo, Indian millennials have also embraced the new shift to sustainable fabrics with equal zest.

In this entire current scenario, the new Indian homegrown brands, Indian retailers as well as India’s MSME sector– the medium and small-scale industries – have truly given a new face to Indian fashion,reviving ethical fashion trends.

JAPAN

Contributor:SUMIKO WAKASA,Senken Shimbun

Uniqlo Harajuku, opened in June 2020

MIXED RESULTS

Cancelled orders because of the slump in the domestic retail market

We can say that Japanese model SPA (speciality store retailer of private label apparel manufacturing) is doing well in the fashion field.

One of the representatives of these cases is Fast Retailing Co. Ltd., owner of Uniqlo etc., which has 3.648 stores around the world (as of end of February 2020).Uniqlo’s sales in April 2020 (the most difficult COVID-19 month in Japan) decreased by 56.5 % compared to the same period of the previous year. However, business at other specialty store chains and department stores decreased by 60% - 90%.

One of the reasons for Uniqlo’s relative success is because they adapted the concept of “Life Wear” (clothes associated with daily life) into staple fashion items with high functionality. It’s also because consumers appreciate their manifesto to constantly improve and innovate.

On the other hand, the Japanese textile industry is in a serious condition due to cancelled orders and because of the slump in the domestic retail market from March to May. Tis slump was because apparel companies and retailers had too much stock of S/S 2020 items and could not make plans for A/W 2020/21, then delaying the textile orders. However, some textile manufacturers,who are strong in exports, say that the decline is less than expected and the impact is a small.

LOOKING FOR CONNECTIONS

“Twin Coordination” is the pervasive trend among girls around 20-years-old

Te style called “Twin Coordination” is the pervasive trend among girls around 20 years old. Instead of looking to celebrities as ideal images of fashion, they relate to influencers and non-professional models chosen by magazine readers. Tey are looking for empathy and friendship.

Night bra & pyjama bra

Along with this zone called “Young” among elder women, there is also an independent woman “Super-Adult” look that originated with Phoebe Philo when she was the creative director of Celine. Tis look has continued for the past year, even after Phoebe resigned, and now they are looking for a new “Post-Phoebe” story.

While these two major looks are strong, what seems to have declined is the market for late 20-30 year olds – an area called “Red Letters” (named after a type of fashion magazine). Teir fashion was “Kawaii”, chosen to attract men’s attention. This type of fashion, rather unique to Japan, has been going on for a long time with evolving changes: in fact,these “Icon Women” still exist as TV announcers etc.

But its current decline comes as this age group of “Icon Women” shifts its attention from their clothes to bodyawareness and well-being in the kind of water they drink and the kind of exercise they do. For example, because of the need to have a ‘bust like hers’, the night bra, worn in bed while sleeping, is now a popular item. It’s part of the “Stay Home”culture that came with COVID-19, and products in this category are selling well on e-commerce. Tis situation will continue for some time.

GREATER INTEREST

Sales in fields such as fair-trade products and organic material products are increasing

Basically, interest in sustainability issues is increasing. However, due to the ambiguity of its definition, it is not possible to give statistical data. However,there is no doubt that sales in fields such as fair-trade products and organic material products are increasing. For example,the main textile products of MUJI, a representative of lifestyle SPA, with 1.000 stores in Japan and overseas and a more than ￥430 billion turnover, are based on organic cotton, organic linen as well as various other sustainable materials such as recycled cotton and wool. Products are also being pursued from the perspectives of fair trade and worker safety.

In the beginning, sales of sustainable products were slow. Many consumers, even if they wanted, did not buy items either because they were not clearly explained and identified or were often buried away in retail stores under other merchandise. But, thanks to the greater online shopping experience gained during the COVID-19 pandemic, more consumers now understand how easy to find detailed information about products.

In turn, more brands are catching on to the importance of sustainability issues. However, there are could be problems. Because of the economic downturn caused by the pandemic, buyers, even those strongly in favour of responsibly made products, could be forced back into low price, budget oriented merchandise.

Super-adult Look

The “Twin Coordination” look

An atelier of the brand Ricci Everyday which is running an ethical project in Uganda

Circulable Supply specializes in the re-sale of it’s employees’ old purchases

RUSSIA

Contributor:MAKSIM MEDVEDEV,PROfashion

Krylia

Jeans Revision

Go Authentic

LACK OF SAVINGS

Clothing was a low priority during quarantine

According to a number of case studies, more than 60% of Russians do not have monetary savings. Terefore, it seems unlikely that consumers will be splashing out. PROfashion conducted a survey among consumers.Many of them said that there was no need for clothing during quarantine. In April, clothing sales in Russia fell 90%.

LOOKING FOR DISCOUNTS

Today, consumers are primarily interested in the price

According to our survey, during quarantine, Russian consumers bought children’s clothes, home clothes,clothes for sports and yoga in online stores. Te decisive argument in favour of buying casual clothes was the availability of good discounts. Due to the collapse of the ruble and a vague future, some consumers decided to stock up on things for the future and bought clothes and shoes from European brands at great discounts. In late May and early June, offline stores began to open in Russia.As the boutique owners informed us, there are very few customers, and sales compared to the pre-crisis period have decreased by no less than 80%.

Some of our respondents said that they are buying products of small local brands or private craftsmen,or plan to do this when there is a financial opportunity.Te problem is that niche brands are not always able to respond to the needs of a wide range of consumers. Most often, local brands offer a small assortment and size range. In addition, today consumers are primarily interested in the price – if the price of clothes suits the client,then he does not care where the clothes are made.

CLEANING OUT THEIR CUPBOARDS

Rental clothing will become a necessity

In quarantine, people took time to look at and sort out their wardrobes, trying to understand what they really needed. Clothing rental services are currently forecasting a big future, because the economic crisis has strongly distorted purchasing power. However, it should be remembered that consumers choosing rental is not the result of desire, informed consumption and sustainability, but an economic necessity. For the same reason, Russians will travel less. Tey want to visit other countries, but at the moment many do not have money for this.

UK

Contributor:JANET PRESCOTT,Twist WTiN

UNEXPECTED OUTCOMES

UK Fashion looks forward as the world changes

Confronting the new post COVID-19 reality, as well as Brexit, exploring various directions in changed trading conditions, the pandemic is widely regarded by most fashion specialists as a supremely damaging event, but with some unexpected outcomes.

The highly specialized, internationally focused UK woollen and worsted-based textile industry has invested in new technology and data processing. Remotely conducted business with designer labels, couture houses and high-end tailors across the world have accelerated, proving unexpectedly successful for 2021 and beyond.

Retailers are contemplating novel ways to shift large amounts of unsold stock accumulated during the virus time, finding the best way to reach customers online and when fashion shops re-open.

POST-LOCKDOWN ECLECTIC

Home-working leads to an individual mix of styles

Post-lockdown eclectic British fashion style sweeps in, disrupting classics. Home-working has resulted in customers inventing an individual mix of styles. Exercise wear and sport shoes have become important in enforced lockdown leisure.

Younger urbanites, back to work in London and other big cities, mix unusual fashion combinations – long printed floral dresses, Puritan prairie dresses, pleated maxi skirts with heels or sneakers. Cargo pants worn with high heels.

With lockdown beards and long hair comes a 1960s type energy to menswear, flamboyant colors, prints in linen and flowery cotton, silk.

Te power of brands continues, at vastly different price levels; Reiss,Gucci, Alexander McQueen, H&M, Roksanda, Faithfull the Brand, Adidas,Converse, Nike, Asos, Loro Piana, Zegna, Burberry.

The craft industry and the DIY artisan movement boomed during isolation; likely to give rise to fashion exploring rustic effects, texture, and"imperfect looks" in 2021, say forecasters.

RESHORING

More manufacturers consider shifts back to the UK

Sustainability is increasingly important to brands; consumer awareness is growing; young people ask for natural fibers and explanations on fashion origins.

Deglobalization and more local sustainable sourcing lie behind moves for reshoring, i.e. the "Make it British" movement by Kate Hills. More manufacturers consider shifts back to the UK after problems following COVID-19 and for sustainable reasons.

Image by The Woolmark Company

E. Tautz

Fiona O’Neill Lookbook

Cycling is the mode of transport for urban travel, boosting all-weather active wear and accessories, like Ally Capellino’s chic bike bags.

Caroline Rush, CEO British Fashion Council, chairs the new Institute for Positive Fashion. “At times of crisis there is opportunity to vision a new future…. fashion has a powerful voice,” she said.

Natural fibers and fabrics dominate the sustainable story. HRH Prince Charles founded the globally successful Campaign for Wool 10 years ago, with sustainability at its heart. “Reimagine our world through the lens of sustainable markets,people and planet at the heart of global value creation,” he said at Davos 2020.

USA

Contributor:SOFIA CELESTE,Freelance

ONLINE BOOM

As the stimulus euphoria wanes, and job losses deepen, consumer spending is expected to slow

It is still early to predict how the COVID-19 pandemic will impact sales over the next 12 months. Initially, a backlog of merchandise prompted retailers to markdown apparel and goods, and as a result, online sales of apparel and accessories posted double-digit growth in the US and the rest of the world, with even small and medium-sized companies boasting stellar sales growth in the months of March, April and May.

On a global level, Bain & Co’s latest Luxury Study for 2020 forecasts a contraction between 20 to 35 percent for the full-year 2020, with a recovery expected in 2022 and 2023.

More than standout names and companies, we need to pay attention to waves and trends that will change the luxury sector as we know it in the near and medium-term. Science, technology and apparel and beauty are merging more than ever before, Synergistically, to create a more eco-sustainable industry on the whole. Established brands like Levis, New Balance, Nike are trailblazing in that arena, while emerging brands like Reformation and Everlane are proving that eco, ethical and transparency has a true place in the luxury market.

THE SPENDING POWER

More collaborations between emerging labels and athletic brands

As the casualisation of men’s and womenswear goes on and more Americans continue to work from home and in their yoga pants, we will see many more collaborations between emerging labels and athletic brands.

DKNY Halsey Hero Ad Campaign

Street wear in the age of COVID-19 will impact streetwear greatly as antiviral technologies target the safety concerns of consumers and masks, gloves and face shields become the new norm on the streets.Streetwear brands are already heeding the call.

When it comes to deciding the strongest sales areas in fashion, affordability is key. The 18 and 24-year-old demographic’s consumer choices will continue to be driven by their spending power, which will certainly be affected by the unemployment situation. Ath-leisure and athletic brands will likely continue to find success with footwear, as more and more teens and young adults ditch the hassle of cars and the unnecessary costs of car insurance for durable footwear.

A LONG WAY TO GO

We can hope that industries around the world meet their own sustainability goals

The COVID-19 pandemic gave the world an unrealistic reprieve from our environmental concerns.I think those who have the spending power will be eager to travel even more than ever, as they have already spent months at home dreaming about their next adventure and are probably already booking their own accommodations for the holiday season. Those who don’t have the spending power, will appreciate staying home and spending time with friends and spending time in nature.

Sustainability was not a key concern, unfortunately, for the Trump administration, but if you take a closer look, individual state governments have set up various initiatives. One that comes to mind is what the Massachusetts Institute of Technology, through its partner Advanced Functional Fabrics of America(AFFOA), a non-profit Institute, has achieved and has become one of the main drivers of the Massachusetts manufacturing-based revolution that is reviving small towns like Fall River. By linking up with MITs world of scientists and engineers, old mills and laboratories alike are transforming traditional fibers and fabrics into sophisticated integrated and networked devices and systems. With state funding and MIT’s assistance,one of AFFOA’s major goals is putting Massachusetts on the map as a global leader in advanced and even sustainable fabrics.

Overall, I think the United States has a long way to go in its quest to educate and enlighten the average consumer. In my opinion, there is a huge gap between the Baby Boomer generation of excess and the millennial generations,while the middleaged consumer is perhaps the most well-informed and concerned about the future of their children and grandchildren.For now, we can hope that industries around the world meet their own sustainability goals by 2025 and the fashion industries change their wasteful ways, so we don’t have to rely as much on the average consumer to make the world a better place.

New Balance Courtesy photo

CELEBRITIES & INFLUENCERS

Storytelling and impactful lifestyle dedicated to wellness and sustainability will emerge evermore victorious

Core influencers with a flair for storytelling, impactful lifestyle dedicated to wellness and sustainability will emerge ever-more victorious in 2020 and beyond – particularly the over 35 set which has the potential to penetrate the over-40 luxury shoppers who have true spending power.

A-listers like Gwyneth Paltrow and Jessica Alba whose followings are in the millions, will continue to grow, while Alicia Silverstone, who recently launched her own brand of organic herbals will continue to impact spending behaviour in the US. Others like Susan Yara (191K followers on Instagram), an American, Korean and Mexican beauty blogger and commentator,who provides her followers with an in-depth review on products based on the results, as well as the ingredients and chemicals in each product, will continue to resonate among “woke” consumers.

Others like socialite, heiress and lifestyle brandentrepreneurs Aerin Lauder, India Hicks (Bahamabased British) lifestyle guru and Rebecca de Ravanel of the eponymous jewellery and clothing brand, will woo consumers with the whimsical sense of escapism that emanates from their social media pages, families and experiences.