袁長渭

南宋時(shí)，徐村作為京城近郊酒庫，釀酒業(yè)特別發(fā)達(dá)。徐村屬于錢塘泗鄉(xiāng)范圍，這里有九溪留下的好水，有泗鄉(xiāng)生產(chǎn)的好糧，有好的燒酒師傅，自然能產(chǎn)出名酒。

老底子人家開門七件事，柴米油鹽醬醋茶，七件事里沒有酒。我想如是開門八件事，這第八件可能要數(shù)酒了。不管你家里喝不喝酒，做菜的調(diào)料酒總要有的。

錢塘人家，無論會喝不會喝，每當(dāng)年腳邊，家里總會做些招待客人用的米酒。喜歡喝酒的，那就更不用說了，一缸缸，一壇壇，聞聞都香，看看都有味道。

我父親滴酒不沾，我哥哥會喝一點(diǎn)。招待親戚朋友，我家每年都會做一大缸米酒。也就是把飯煮熟，拌上酒藥，在大缸里發(fā)酵。冬天里，缸的外面要包上稻草，以保證發(fā)酵的溫度。過年時(shí)開缸喝米酒，清澈香甜的米酒，連小孩子都想偷偷地喝一點(diǎn)。我們一幫高中同學(xué)過年來我家聚會，油炸年糕干沽酒，喝倒了好幾位。米酒就是后勁足，甜味易讓人上當(dāng)。

米酒不能長期存放，時(shí)間久了會發(fā)酸。做米酒一般都會在冬天，春夏季節(jié)時(shí)，家里準(zhǔn)備的是白酒。

現(xiàn)在，每當(dāng)我行走在錢塘江大堤上，看到沉甸甸的高粱，就會想起錢塘泗鄉(xiāng)的白酒，也就是我們所說的“泗鄉(xiāng)茅臺”。朋友和學(xué)生家長知道我不會喝酒，但請客時(shí)時(shí)常會用到一些，所以見到五年八年的錢塘陳釀，會幫我送幾壇來。打開酒壇，那香味引得我這不喝酒的人都會流口水，直接用酒提子舀來品嘗。

《水滸》里的梁山好漢都是大碗喝酒，大塊吃肉，武松喝了那么多酒，還居然打死了一只大老虎，我懷疑武松打的是醉拳。據(jù)專家分析推論，武松喝的就是我們現(xiàn)在一般人家家里釀的低度米酒，不是度數(shù)高的白酒。

錢塘自古就有釀酒的傳統(tǒng)，酒業(yè)稅收還是地方財(cái)政的主要保證。據(jù)歷史記載，南宋首都臨安府有13個(gè)酒庫，錢塘徐村酒庫就是其中之一，徐村就是現(xiàn)在的九溪。古代的酒庫，就是釀酒廠和酒專賣店的綜合體，好比前店后廠。

徐村還有一個(gè)鬧忙的集市，叫徐村市。每年的清明前釀酒，秋天時(shí)開新酒。新酒開賣前，以白布三丈多，用竹竿拉起來做廣告，上面寫著“徐村庫選到酒匠某人醞造上等醲辣無比高酒”，三五個(gè)人扶著酒和廣告前行。前面還有鼓樂、伎女、雜技做先導(dǎo)，圍觀的人不計(jì)其數(shù)。酒匠則戴著新帽穿著紫衣騎著馬，跟在廣告游行隊(duì)伍的后面，以府中所賞彩帛、錢會、銀碗駝負(fù)馬前，謂之迎酒。酒以工匠而出名，這也是工匠精神的體現(xiàn)。

南宋詩人楊炎正有《錢塘迎酒歌》：“錢塘妓女顏如玉，一一紅妝新結(jié)束。問其結(jié)束何所謂？八月皇都酒新熟。酒新熟，浮蛆香，十三庫中誰最強(qiáng)？臨安大尹索酒嘗，舊有故事須迎將。翠翹金鳳烏云髻，雕鞍玉勒三千騎。金鞭爭道萬人看，香塵冉冉沙河市。琉璃杯深琥珀濃，新翻曲譜聲摩空。使君一笑賜金帛，今年酒賽珍珠紅。畫樓突兀臨官道，處處繡旗夸酒好。五陵年少事豪華，一斗十千誰復(fù)校。”為了增加稅收，這是好辦法。好像我們現(xiàn)在的招商引稅，或者說是地塊出讓廣告大會。原來古代就有這樣的廣告和招商辦法。

這里的“新酒熟，浮蛆香”，如果您家釀過酒就知道，新酒飄香時(shí)，酒缸里釀酒的飯粒像蛆蟲一樣漂浮在上面，不是蛆蟲，而是像蛆蟲樣的飯粒。為了打到清澈的米酒，我們都用竹籃過濾。這里講的酒不是蒸餾酒，都是發(fā)酵酒，度數(shù)不高。如果您想了解個(gè)明白，年底可以去外桐塢村看看古老的釀酒術(shù)。

包括徐村庫在內(nèi)的十三庫的酒還要進(jìn)行賽酒大會，比個(gè)高低，“今年酒賽珍珠紅”，說明那一年的冠軍品牌是“珍珠紅”。宋朝詩人高翥（余姚人，字九萬）有詩云：“賽罷祠山賽二郎，酒行明日欲開張。愚民可是多忘本？香火何曾到杜康！”這里的“祠山”和“二郎”就是當(dāng)年的名酒品牌吧，好像現(xiàn)在的茅臺和五糧液。

南宋時(shí)，徐村作為京城近郊酒庫，釀酒業(yè)特別發(fā)達(dá)。徐村屬于錢塘泗鄉(xiāng)范圍，這里有九溪留下的好水，有泗鄉(xiāng)生產(chǎn)的好糧，有好的燒酒師傅，自然能產(chǎn)出名酒。

現(xiàn)在離徐村不遠(yuǎn)同屬泗鄉(xiāng)的雙浦地區(qū)釀酒業(yè)也特別發(fā)達(dá)，這可能也是傳統(tǒng)行業(yè)的繼承和發(fā)揚(yáng)吧。南宋詩人楊萬里在他的詩《過南蕩三首（一）》中曾經(jīng)寫道：“秧才束發(fā)幼相依，麥已掀髯喜可知。笑殺槿籬能耐事，東扶西倒野酴醾?！痹娙说搅硕ㄉ奖编l(xiāng)（南蕩鄉(xiāng)），看到了許多“野酴醾（tú mí）”。“野酴醾”是什么？是一種可以制作釀酒藥的花。我小時(shí)候經(jīng)?？吹结劸茙煾的弥衿娴木扑幇柙谂疵罪埨?，拌勻了捂在酒缸里。這可能就是“野酴醾”制作的。

諸暨人把同山燒酒叫做“諸暨茅臺”，錢塘泗鄉(xiāng)人把自己釀的酒叫“泗鄉(xiāng)茅臺”，或者叫“雙浦茅臺”。品嘗陳年的雙浦茅臺，那醇香味，我看與茅臺差不離。

開心時(shí)喝酒，唐朝詩人王翰說“葡萄美酒夜光杯”;不開心時(shí)喝酒，古人說“何以解憂，唯有杜康”。酒真是好東西。

以后請朋友喝錢塘泗鄉(xiāng)茅臺，我要先介紹一下她的悠久歷史，那可是南宋傳下來的名酒哦，相當(dāng)于南宋時(shí)的茅臺。錢塘自古產(chǎn)名酒。

Hangzhou is little known for wine making even though villages around the city have been making wine since very ancient times. Back then in rural communities where villagers tried hard to make daily necessities， wine making was a long tradition. Almost every household brew its own rice wine in winter when the Spring Festival was around the corner. My father is a teetotaler， but my big brother drinks a little. To treat visiting friends and relatives around the Spring Festival in those years， our family made a big urn of rice wine every winter. It wasnt difficult to make rice wine. Cooked rice was put into a huge urn and then mixed with yeast. In order to keep the temperature inside the urn right， the urn was wrapped with rice straws. The rice wine was ready for the Spring Festival dinners. The wine was sweet and clear. Even kids wanted to sip some. When I was in senior high， some classmates visited me at my home. We had a good time eating deep-fried ?slices and drinking homemade rice wine. Some of us got drunk because the wine was deceptively sweet and simple and no one would be aware of the strong delayed effects.

All our neighbors had their own homemade rice wine in winter. As rice wine cant keep when weather becomes warm， we usually make white spirit in spring or in summer for home consumption. We locals in rural Hangzhou enjoy the homemade spirit. Even now some small wineries in Hangzhou make this kind of white spirit.

Hangzhou was a big wine producer in ancient times. During the Southern Song Dynasty （1127-1279）， which was housed in present-day Hangzhou， the capital city had 13 wineries. The taxation from the wine-making sector accounted for a big chunk of the total revenue of the capital city government.

Xucun， which is near present-day Nine Creeks， a famous scenic highlight of the West Lake， was home to a winery back then. One f the thirteen wineries of the capital city， the brewery in Xucun was a production and retail complex. Xucun operated a busy marketplace. The wine-making season began before the Qingming Festival in early April and the white spirit would mature until autumn came around. Days before the years new white spirit came on market， some promotional festivities would be held in Xucun. A 10-meter-long white fabric would be set up like a banner with bamboo flagpoles， flaunting the new brew. Moreover， there would be a street parade going through the town and marketplace. Musicians played， acrobats performed， winemakers were on the horseback， wearing new garments.

Extant ancient poems by local people are testimony to the thriving existence of the wine-making industry. From these poems， we can deduce that a wine competition was annually held among the 13 wineries around the capital city during the Southern Song Dynasty. One poem says a wine called Pearl Red won the championship in an annual competition.

In the Southern Song Dynasty， Xucun in an immediate suburb of the city thrived as a wine-making center， largely thanks to the high-quality water of the nine creeks. Today， Shuangpu， a region not far from the creeks， boasts prosperous wineries. Apparently， one generation of loyal local customers after another in the region has enjoyed the local brand. Their support keeps the wineries alive and makes them thrive.