湖埠里，朱熹蘇東坡曾駐足

袁長(zhǎng)渭

這里有美麗的湖埠十景，有旖旎的湖光山色，還盛產(chǎn)西湖莼菜和九曲紅梅。而湖埠里流傳的一些舊事，也為此處增添了一抹神秘色彩。

4月的錢(qián)塘泗鄉(xiāng)，油菜花遍地開(kāi)放。行走在開(kāi)滿(mǎn)油菜花的田埂上，田邊的水面恰到好處地將油菜花、湖水與湖邊的群山組成一幅絕美的圖畫(huà)。遠(yuǎn)處的云泉山和風(fēng)水洞最為顯眼，近處的曇山成了點(diǎn)綴，花山和公館山更是雙峰插云，巍然聳立。

泗鄉(xiāng)位于杭州市西湖區(qū)之江地區(qū)，是古時(shí)定山南鄉(xiāng)、定山北鄉(xiāng)、長(zhǎng)壽鄉(xiāng)和安吉鄉(xiāng)的合稱(chēng)，范圍大致與杭州轉(zhuǎn)塘街道（）雙浦鎮(zhèn)（）相一致，附近有中國(guó)美術(shù)學(xué)院、浙江音樂(lè)學(xué)院、西湖高等研究院等高等院校。

在古老的農(nóng)耕社會(huì)，錢(qián)塘江邊的泗鄉(xiāng)作為錢(qián)塘縣的最重要組成部分，是浙江通往福建、江西等省的水陸交通要道，也是浙江省上八府和下三府的最主要連接點(diǎn)。

位于錢(qián)塘泗鄉(xiāng)的銅鑒湖邊，是杭州通往富陽(yáng)的必經(jīng)之地，秦始皇、白居易、蘇東坡、范仲淹、朱熹、乾隆、董邦達(dá)等歷史名人，在湖埠里都留下過(guò)足跡或詩(shī)刻。這里有美麗的湖埠十景，有旖旎的湖光山色，有風(fēng)水洞和靈山幻境景區(qū)，還名產(chǎn)西湖莼菜和九曲紅梅。

除了優(yōu)美的風(fēng)景，在湖埠里流傳的一些舊聞也為此處增添了一抹神秘色彩。

進(jìn)士馮來(lái)聘

明朝末年，錢(qián)塘泗鄉(xiāng)有四大才子——

轉(zhuǎn)塘午山村的葛寅亮是鄉(xiāng)試解元，后來(lái)中了進(jìn)士，人稱(chēng)“葛湖南”（），他家和大諸橋、千金閘（）的建造有關(guān)系。

轉(zhuǎn)塘雙流村的陳之煌中了進(jìn)士做了官后，籌集資金修建了雙流村的前溪和后溪，解決了村里發(fā)大水的難題，也就是現(xiàn)在鳳凰創(chuàng)意園里的溪流和中國(guó)美院里象山南渠。浮山鄭尚友也中了進(jìn)士，出任明朝福建長(zhǎng)樂(lè)縣最后一任知縣，也做了清朝第一任長(zhǎng)樂(lè)縣知縣，并且兩次被康熙皇帝定為“天下第一清官”，與大名鼎鼎的于成龍同時(shí)入清官名錄，這就是浮山頭“鄭做官”的來(lái)歷。

湖埠里的馮來(lái)聘也在同時(shí)期中了進(jìn)士，鄉(xiāng)試時(shí)和葛寅亮同一榜。50多年前，馮來(lái)聘進(jìn)士府第的臺(tái)門(mén)還在，現(xiàn)在已經(jīng)不見(jiàn)了蹤影。

馮來(lái)聘沒(méi)有中舉前，曾經(jīng)砍過(guò)柴，翻過(guò)陸家?guī)X到凌家橋街上去賣(mài)柴。他在陸家?guī)X涼亭休息時(shí)發(fā)誓說(shuō)，將來(lái)若有出頭之日，定要削平陸家?guī)X，讓賣(mài)柴人如履平地。等到馮來(lái)聘中了進(jìn)士做了山東省的御史后，再回到銅鑒湖畔湖埠里，小時(shí)候的玩伴戲謔地問(wèn)他：“來(lái)聘，你說(shuō)做了大官就削平陸家?guī)X，什么時(shí)候來(lái)削平??？”馮來(lái)聘笑著回答說(shuō)：“我坐著八抬大轎過(guò)陸家?guī)X就是平的呀！”原來(lái)，對(duì)坐在轎子上的大官馮來(lái)聘來(lái)說(shuō)，陸家?guī)X已經(jīng)是平地了。

這條山路筆者也曾走過(guò)多次，直到20多年前這條山路才被廢棄。

馮來(lái)聘沒(méi)有削山，但出資在湖埠溪上建了一座橋，叫做“無(wú)私橋”，希望自己的子孫后代能有公德心，無(wú)私奉獻(xiàn)鄉(xiāng)里，造福桑梓?，F(xiàn)在，無(wú)私橋依然屹立在馮家湖埠溪上，古老的橋板被瀝青蓋住了，“無(wú)私橋”三個(gè)字還在，是我同學(xué)馮劍威的父親馮柿豪叔叔題寫(xiě)的。

馮來(lái)聘還曾經(jīng)發(fā)過(guò)一個(gè)誓：升一級(jí)，造一個(gè)涼亭。而且他確實(shí)做到了。從湖埠里馮家到楊村有三個(gè)涼亭，都是馮來(lái)聘出資建造的。50多年前，三個(gè)涼亭都還在，現(xiàn)在只剩下一個(gè)了，希望能長(zhǎng)久。

朱熹和曇山

湖埠村的南面有一座山，叫曇山。曇山在南宋時(shí)非常有名，引得理學(xué)祖師爺朱熹來(lái)了3次，盤(pán)桓多日，并且留下了在杭州的唯一石刻。南宋紹熙五年，朱熹游湖埠曇山，留題一詩(shī)于棋坪石南側(cè)。詩(shī)云“頹然見(jiàn)茲山，一一見(jiàn)天作。信手銘巖墻，所愿君勿鑿?！蓖晔?，朱喜重游曇山，摩崖正書(shū)于仙人洞側(cè)，“紹熙甲寅閏十月癸未，朱仲晦（）南歸，重游鄭君次山園亭?！?/p>

曇山上有一石洞，名字叫清虛洞，也叫金牛洞，因?yàn)閭髡f(shuō)從前的銅鑒湖叫金牛湖，金牛逃到了洞里，從此沒(méi)有出來(lái)過(guò)，洞里有時(shí)還會(huì)發(fā)出“哞哞”的金牛叫聲。

清虛洞還被叫作仙人洞，也有一個(gè)傳說(shuō)。一位仁橋村（）的小伙子上曇山砍柴，到了清虛洞里看到兩位老者在對(duì)弈，小伙子就把斧頭立在地上，屁股坐在斧頭柄上看他們下棋。沒(méi)一會(huì)兒，他肚子餓了，兩位下棋的老者拿了石桌上的桃子給小伙子吃。等到小伙子看完這局棋站起來(lái)時(shí)，斧頭上的木柄已經(jīng)腐爛了。原來(lái)，小伙子坐在泥地上很長(zhǎng)時(shí)間了，自己卻沒(méi)有察覺(jué)到。他回到仁橋村，發(fā)現(xiàn)距離他生活的那個(gè)年代已經(jīng)過(guò)去了幾百年。他的家譜上還能查到他的名字，也記載了他打柴失蹤的事情。所謂“仙界一日，人間千年”。原來(lái)，吃了仙桃，砍柴小伙也成了神仙。仙人洞里仙人下棋的那個(gè)石板棋盤(pán)至今還在，石板上依稀還能看到棋盤(pán)的模樣。當(dāng)然，這都是后人為了豐滿(mǎn)這個(gè)傳說(shuō)而做的美好想象。

白居易、蘇東坡和湖埠風(fēng)水洞

湖埠里有一著名的風(fēng)景點(diǎn)就是風(fēng)水洞，由風(fēng)洞和水洞組成，直到現(xiàn)在水洞里還能撐船。

風(fēng)水洞洞外有一寺廟叫慈嚴(yán)寺，或者叫恩德寺，所以風(fēng)水洞也叫慈嚴(yán)洞和恩德洞。白居易做杭州刺史時(shí)，與慈嚴(yán)寺主持慧日禪師交好，常來(lái)湖埠里看望慧日禪師，并且留下了許多詩(shī)作，比如“云水埋藏恩德洞，簪裾束縛使君身。暫來(lái)不宿歸州去，應(yīng)被山呼作俗人”。

到了北宋末年，蘇東坡兩次出仕杭州，也經(jīng)常來(lái)湖埠里視察工作和游玩。蘇東坡游風(fēng)水洞時(shí)留下的著名詩(shī)句，至今還刻寫(xiě)在風(fēng)水洞口——

往富陽(yáng)新城李節(jié)推先行三日留風(fēng)水洞見(jiàn)待

春山磔磔鳴春禽，此間不可無(wú)我吟。

路長(zhǎng)漫漫傍江浦，此間不可無(wú)君語(yǔ)。

金魚(yú)池邊不見(jiàn)君，追君直過(guò)定山村。

路人皆言君未遠(yuǎn)，騎馬少年清且婉。

風(fēng)巖水穴舊聞名，只隔山溪夜不行。

溪橋曉溜浮梅萼，知君系馬巖花落。

出城三日尚逶遲，妻孥怪罵歸何時(shí)。

世上小兒夸疾走，如君相待今安有。

詩(shī)里的定山村就是轉(zhuǎn)塘凌家橋村，“風(fēng)巖水穴”指的就是風(fēng)水洞，“山溪”就是湖埠溪，也就是銅鑒湖，隔湖就是風(fēng)水洞。

蘇東坡為了勸湖埠里人養(yǎng)鵝致富，還寫(xiě)下了《風(fēng)水洞二禽》：“林外一聲青竹筍，坐間半醉白頭翁。春山最好不歸去，慚愧春禽解勸儂。”

筆者也經(jīng)常去銅鑒湖畔湖埠里游玩，有感而發(fā)，寫(xiě)了一首打油詩(shī)：“姚塢書(shū)聲朗，父子倆宰相。陸家?guī)X依舊，無(wú)私淵源長(zhǎng)。風(fēng)洞涼風(fēng)爽，水洞流水暢。登山觀滄海，紫薇現(xiàn)東方。莼思?xì)w故里，曇山書(shū)聲揚(yáng)。山翠石亦奇，銅鑒碧波漾。恩德鐘聲響，山下屯鹽場(chǎng)。來(lái)客知蘇白，崖刻壁上蒼?！?/p>

Anecdotes of Hubuli

By Yuan Changwei

Sixiang was an integral part of the Qiantang prefecture （present-day Zhijiang district of Hangzhou） in the agrarian age， and is a transportation hub connecting Hangzhou with Fujian and Jiangxi provinces. Seated near the Tongjian Lake in Sixiang， Hubuli is the conduit linking downtown Hangzhou with Fuyang， and is a breathing time-capsule of history and culture. Intriguing legends and tales about emperors and many cultural notables， together with the “Top 10 Attractions of Hubuli” and seasonal treats from the West Lake and the tea fields， all contribute to the captivating charm and mystery of Hubuli.

In the late years of Ming dynasty （1368-1644）， Sixiang rose to fame for producing four “Jinshi” （successful candidates in the imperial examinations of feudal China）： Ge Yinliang， Chen Zhihuang， Zheng Shangyou， and Feng Laipin. The legacy of Chen Zhihuang， from Shuangliu Village， can be seen by people today at the Xiangshan Campus of China Academy of Fine Arts.

Before he made his name， Feng Laipin was a woodcutter making a living by selling firewood. One day when he was taking a rest on his way to the marketplace in Lingjiaqiao， he vowed to turn the rugged mountain footpath he had to take so painstakingly every day into a flat one. Years later， Fengs childhood friend jokingly challenged him： “Now that you have gone up in the world， did you forget what you promised？” “Now I am on a sedan chair; and for me it is not a rugged journey anymore，” said Feng.

A bridge called “Unselfish Bridge” on the Hubu River was built by Feng Laipin to remind later generations of the importance of having a caring heart for the other people. He also kept his promise of building a pavilion each time he got a promotion. One of the three pavilions he ordered to be built can still be seen in Hubuli.

Tanshan Hill， south of Hubu Village， drew Zhu Xi （1130-1200）， a great Song-dynasty synthesist of philosophy of principle， three times. The result of one of the scholars visits is the only stone inscription the master philosopher left in Hangzhou.

A stone cavern called Qingxu also adds to the mystery of the hill. Legend has it that the mooing sound the locals claim to have heard in the cave is because a bull was once here. The cave is also called “Cave of Immortals”. The locals believe in a story about a young man who went into the depths of the hill to chop firewood and chanced upon two old man playing chess in the cave. He put the axe away and watched the game with great interest until the game was over， without realizing how long he had been sitting there. He went back home， and found hundreds of years had elapsed. The only thing he remembered was a peach he ate when watching the game. The story about immortals may sound cliché， but the stone checkerboard is still recognizable in the cave.

One of the top attractions of Hubuli is the Wind and Water Cave. As the name suggests， there is water running through it. Outside the cave there is a temple called Ciyan， although the locals also call it Ende Temple. During his term of serving as Hangzhou governor， Bai Juyi （772-846）， Chinese poet of the Tang dynasty was a regular visitor at the temple and made friends with the abbot， Master Huiri. The twos interaction and friendship was written into a host of poems by Bai Juyi.

Hubuli was also a favored business and leisure destination of Su Dongpo （1037-1101）， the great Northern Song poet and scholar， during his two tenures in Hangzhou. One of the mans poems can be seen at the entrance of the Wind and Water Cave， suggesting that he spent some happy， relaxed time there.

The Dingshan Village he mentioned in the poem is the present-day Lingjiaqiao Village in Zhuantang， Hangzhou. Su Dongpo also taught the Hubuli people how to make a better life by raising geese. Instead of writing a detailed document， of course， he wrote a poem to communicate with the villagers.