百年山城巷的文藝范

文|本刊記者 胡 婷 圖| 呂 兵

從中興路渝中區(qū)檢察院旁邊的小牌樓右拐，便進(jìn)入了山城步道。12 月2 日，從這里，我們開(kāi)啟了一次嶄新的山城巷之旅。

改造后的老巷，不僅提升了“顏值”，更增加了“氣質(zhì)”，讓人不由得時(shí)時(shí)停下腳步。

Turn right from the small archway next to Yuzhong District Procuratorate on Zhongxing Road and enter the Shancheng footpath. On December 2, we started a brand-new trip to Shancheng Alley from here.

The transformation of the old alley not only improved its appearance but also increased the temperament, making us stop to appreciate constantly.

老巷子里小清新 Freshness in Old Alley

走在石階步道上，曾經(jīng)破舊的云街平巷里，悄悄“住”進(jìn)了博物館、美術(shù)館、展覽館等新興藝術(shù)館。

一面紅磚墻上，“XXS 羊毛氈美術(shù)館”的標(biāo)識(shí)格外醒目。沿著指示牌，轉(zhuǎn)彎向里走，透過(guò)店門(mén)的落地玻璃窗，能看到櫥窗里陳列的狐貍、熊、烏鴉等各式動(dòng)物羊毛氈。說(shuō)是美術(shù)館，不過(guò)30 來(lái)平方米，擺放的蘑菇、座椅、花朵等惟妙惟肖的毛氈作品均出自“館長(zhǎng)”鄧麗之手。

此刻，鄧麗正坐在木桌前，一針一針地勾勒著。游客如果有興趣，也可以現(xiàn)場(chǎng)體驗(yàn)一番。

羊毛氈美術(shù)館旁，是一家明信片博物館，掩蔽在一大片藤蔓綠植中，若不仔細(xì)看，很容易錯(cuò)過(guò)。

盡管店面很隱秘，但館內(nèi)卻是別有洞天。墻上的老式掛鐘、木桌上正在播放磁帶的錄音機(jī)、暗色調(diào)的木箱等物品，提示這是一家主打懷舊的小店。

往里，整面墻“長(zhǎng)”滿(mǎn)了各式彩色手繪明信片，旁邊的一張長(zhǎng)桌上，擺放著川江號(hào)子、老碼頭、茶館等的老照片。這些都是老板白墨的作品。

白墨說(shuō)：“這些老茶館、老巷子很多都沒(méi)有了。我希望游客可以通過(guò)這些明信片和老照片，感受老重慶的一些記憶?！?/p>

邊走邊看，步步都有驚喜：小巷里一路有“重慶女性影像展”；街角有畫(huà)師在為游客畫(huà)卡通動(dòng)漫形象；在一家“時(shí)光雜貨鋪”，淘一塊幾十年前的老布，順便也尋回老的時(shí)光……

Walking on the stone steps and footpath, I surprisingly found that museums, art galleries, exhibition halls and other new art galleries have quietly moved in the once-shabby Pingxiang Alley of Yunjie Street.

05 買(mǎi)一碗豆腐腦，品嘗山城的味道

06 登上長(zhǎng)長(zhǎng)的石梯，就是山城巷

On a red brick wall, the logo of "XXS Wool Felt Art Museum" is especially striking. Following the sign, turn and walk inward. Through the floor-to-floor glass window of the store door, you can see the wool felt of foxes, bears, crows and other animals displayed in the window. It is said to be an art museum, but only with 30 square meters, the lifelike felt works such as mushrooms, seats and flowers are all made by "curator" Deng Li.

At the moment, Deng Li is sitting at the wooden table, sketching the outline stitch by stitch. Tourists can also experience it on the spot if they are interested.

Next to the Wool Felt Art Museum is a postcard museum, hidden in a large area of vines and green plants. If you don't look carefully, you can easily miss it.

Although it is hidden behind plants, there is a very different world inside it. The old wall clock on the wall, the tape recorder playing tapes on the wooden table, dark wooden cases and other items show nostalgia is the subject of the store.

07 青磚臺(tái)子旁，大鍋里溫著豆腐腦，旁邊還擺著碗筷和各式調(diào)料

08 走累了，路邊隨處都有休息的桌椅

09 在胡豆店，游客還可以體驗(yàn)傳統(tǒng)胡豆的制作

Inside, the whole wall is covered by all kinds of colored hand-painted postcards, and on a long table beside it are old photos of Chuanjiang Haozi, old docks, teahouses, etc. These are all the works of the boss Bai Mo.

"Many of these old teahouses and alleys are gone. I hope tourists can feel some memories of old Chongqing through these postcards and old photos." Bai Mo said.

While walking and watching, there are surprises step by step: "Chongqing Women's Image Exhibition" in the alley, painters drawing cartoon images for tourists on the corner, a "time grocery store" where you could buy a piece of cloth of several decades old, reviewing the old times by the way.

百年積淀的煙火味 Living Atmosphere Accumulated over A Hundred Years

老巷的魅力，還在于百年積淀的煙火氣。然而，漫步老巷，這里的煙火氣和文藝范也如此和諧統(tǒng)一。

沿著石梯而上，一家店鋪門(mén)前擺著幾張矮木桌和椅子，雕花鏤空的木門(mén)上掛著毛筆題寫(xiě)的匾額“山城老倌”，以為是老茶館，進(jìn)屋一看卻是家咖啡館。

石梯折疊，地勢(shì)層層攀升。拾級(jí)而上，走累了可以在路邊的長(zhǎng)椅歇息，也可以隨手在沿途點(diǎn)上一碗傳統(tǒng)風(fēng)味小吃。

“靈兒姐豆腐腦、蓋碗茶”的大鍋里，凝脂般的豆腐腦冒著熱氣，菜單上雖然只有豆腐腦和蓋碗茶兩個(gè)品種，但口味多樣。點(diǎn)好餐，從大堂的老式八仙桌旁順木梯往上，可以登上一個(gè)小閣樓。

伴著冬日暖陽(yáng)，捧著一碗熱氣騰騰的桂花醪糟豆腐腦，看看窗外滾滾的江水，好不愜意。

10 百年山城巷，增加了很多新元素

11 在路邊小店門(mén)口坐一坐，也別有一番味道

12 坐在小閣樓上，鬧中取靜

老板靈兒姐說(shuō)，“夏天過(guò)來(lái)，還可以嘗到冰鎮(zhèn)的豆腐腦，特別爽口?！?/p>

要想邊吃邊走也是有的?！班嵤先虾贵w驗(yàn)店”可以買(mǎi)到海苔味、五香味、怪味等各式現(xiàn)做的胡豆。

老板鄭三合說(shuō)，他家從爺爺輩就開(kāi)始做胡豆了。在這里，游客不僅可以買(mǎi)到各種胡豆，還能體驗(yàn)重慶傳統(tǒng)胡豆從初加工、調(diào)味到裝袋的整個(gè)制作過(guò)程。

沿著石梯繼續(xù)向上，一路還可以嘗到傳統(tǒng)手工米粉、芝麻湯圓、老火鍋等重慶傳統(tǒng)美食，還有不少老屋還在翻修。

更多的驚喜在未來(lái)——山城巷傳統(tǒng)風(fēng)貌區(qū)整個(gè)項(xiàng)目占地面積2.47 公頃，建筑面積約21000 平方米，目前打造的還不足1000 平方米。或許過(guò)段時(shí)間再來(lái)，這條百年老巷里又會(huì)有新的小驚喜。

The charm of the old alley also lies in the living atmosphere accumulated over the past hundred years. However, walking through the old lane, you would find that the living atmosphere and artistic features here are also so harmonious and unified.

Up the stone ladder, there are several low wooden tables and chairs in front of a shop. The carved and hollowedout wooden door is hung with a plaque inscribed with a writing brush, "Old Shepherd of Shancheng". I thought it was an old teahouse, but when I entered it I found it was a cafe.

The stone steps lay on top of each other, and as they went up, the ground rises higher and higher. If you are tired, you can rest on the bench on the roadside or buy a bowl of traditional snacks along the way.

13 在山城巷，曾經(jīng)破舊的云街平巷里，悄悄“住”進(jìn)了博物館、美術(shù)館、展覽館等新興藝術(shù)館

14 “山城老倌”看似茶館，其實(shí)是一個(gè)咖啡館

15 在山城巷子的懸空棧道上，可以看到滾滾長(zhǎng)江

In the big pot of "Ling'er Sister Tofu Jelly, Gaiwancha", coagulated fat-like tofu jelly is steaming. Although there are only two varieties of tofu and Gaiwancha on the menu, they have a lot of flavors. After ordering meal you could and go up to a small attic from the wooden ladder next to the old square table in the lobby.

Accompanied by the warm winter sun, holding a bowl of steaming tofu jelly with sweet osmanthus and fermented glutinous rice and looking out of the window at the rolling river water, how comfortable it is.

"In summer, you can also taste iced tofu jelly, that is especially refreshing." Sister Ling'er, the owner, told me.

If you want to taste the food while visiting, there are also a variety of options for you. In "Zheng's Sanhe Lima Bean Experience Shop", you can buy all kinds of lima bean freshly cooked such as seaweed flavor, five flavors and strange flavor.

Owner Zheng Sanhe said that his family has been making lima beans since his grandparents. Here, tourists can not only buy all kinds of lima beans, but also experience the whole production process of Chongqing traditional lima beans from initial processing, seasoning to bagging.

Following the stone ladder, you can also taste traditional Chongqing delicacies such as traditional handmade rice noodles, sesame glutinous rice balls and old hot pot, and many old houses are still under renovation.

More surprises are waiting for you, the whole project in the traditional style area of Shancheng Alley covers an area of 2.47 hectares and a construction area of about 21,000 square meters. At present, less than 1,000 square meters have been built. Perhaps there will be new surprises in this century-old alley after a period of time to come back.