因?yàn)閻?ài)，所以愛(ài)

于清

之前去杭州西子湖四季酒店的中餐廳時(shí)，就有人告訴我，隔壁做西餐的WL Bistro西湖餐廳有一位新加坡來(lái)的大廚，還專門(mén)推出了新加坡菜單，而且“是個(gè)帥哥哦”。

我立刻拿出小本子，決意與帥哥好好聊一聊，結(jié)果發(fā)現(xiàn)這是一位特實(shí)誠(chéng)的帥哥，實(shí)誠(chéng)到我時(shí)不時(shí)覺(jué)得“這天是聊不下去了”。

愛(ài)上一個(gè)杭州姑娘

再愛(ài)上有她的城市

帥哥叫梁隆基，今年29歲，是杭州西子湖四季酒店的西廚副廚師長(zhǎng)。我曾經(jīng)在西餐的廚房邊吃過(guò)飯，知道西餐里的Chef（廚師長(zhǎng)、主廚）是多么有權(quán)威的存在，所以看到這么年輕還有點(diǎn)靦腆的Chef，真有點(diǎn)意外。

話題從他的工作經(jīng)歷開(kāi)始。之前我采訪過(guò)的很多大廚，都是跑過(guò)三江六碼頭的，閱歷都很豐富，結(jié)果梁隆基就一句話：“我之前就在新加坡啊，杭州是我離開(kāi)家后長(zhǎng)住的第一個(gè)城市?！?/p>

為什么來(lái)杭州呢？“因?yàn)槲姨诤贾莅?。”?tīng)起來(lái)應(yīng)該是一個(gè)浪漫的故事，不過(guò)從梁隆基這里說(shuō)出來(lái)就很簡(jiǎn)單了：20歲的時(shí)候在新加坡遇到了一個(gè)杭州姑娘兒，他是酒店廚師，姑娘兒是酒店里的實(shí)習(xí)生，就這么好上了?！澳嵌螘r(shí)間挺不容易的”，他說(shuō)，兩人在一起經(jīng)歷六年的異地戀后領(lǐng)了證，第七年的時(shí)候擺了酒，第八年他就來(lái)了杭州，今年是他們?cè)谝黄鸬牡诰拍辍?/p>

準(zhǔn)備一直在杭州，還是說(shuō)有其他計(jì)劃？梁隆基對(duì)這個(gè)問(wèn)題有點(diǎn)不理解：“為什么要走？我太太在杭州啊，我當(dāng)然也在這里了?！?/p>

雖說(shuō)說(shuō)話直來(lái)直去，但這恩愛(ài)秀得還是有點(diǎn)讓人猝不及防。除了太太，還有什么理由留在杭州？梁隆基說(shuō)：“環(huán)境特別好，綠化啊什么的，還有杭州人也很熱情?！?h3>杭州菜首選糖醋里脊

菜單藏著對(duì)家鄉(xiāng)的思念

異地戀那幾年，梁隆基每年都要飛杭州三次，所以他對(duì)杭州菜非常熟悉，平時(shí)周末不上班的時(shí)候，還會(huì)跑去菜場(chǎng)買(mǎi)菜——杭州的很多食材都比新加坡的新鮮，對(duì)于一個(gè)廚師來(lái)說(shuō)真的蠻有吸引力。杭州的家常菜，梁隆基首選糖醋里脊，他還喜歡吳山烤雞和知味觀的點(diǎn)心，我拿出自己的私藏安利給他，比如三毛烤雞也很好吃，還有采荷菜場(chǎng)的“富陽(yáng)佬牛肉”和“仙居佬雞”都不錯(cuò)，他都特別認(rèn)真地記下了。

梁隆基為餐廳設(shè)計(jì)的新加坡菜單十分簡(jiǎn)潔，就八道菜，包括肉骨茶、炭烤沙嗲雞肉串、叻沙、椰漿飯、炒稞條、摩摩查查等。為什么是這八個(gè)？答案非常實(shí)在，“因?yàn)檫@些都是我愛(ài)吃的?！边@些菜，很多食材和調(diào)料都是進(jìn)口的，這是五星級(jí)酒店對(duì)品質(zhì)的把控。同時(shí)他追求的是“從小吃到大的味道”，只是在辣度上略減。我想這原汁原味，可能就是他對(duì)新加坡的一點(diǎn)思念吧？

很多美食都是有傳承的，所以我問(wèn)梁隆基，你怎么會(huì)學(xué)做菜的？家里有人是做這個(gè)的嗎？結(jié)果他的回答是：“沒(méi)有啊，我家其他人都是老師。”

我于是隨口開(kāi)了個(gè)玩笑，莫不是你讀書(shū)不行才去學(xué)廚師的？梁隆基還是很老實(shí)：“對(duì)啊”。他說(shuō)自己不喜歡坐在辦公室里，一直覺(jué)得做菜挺好的。

聊到最后，我終于找到一個(gè)和主廚共同的地方：我學(xué)的第一道菜是番茄炒蛋，他學(xué)的是班尼蛋。

（部分圖片由毛若皓提供）

Love for Loves Sake

By Yu Qing

The other day I went to a Chinese restaurant at West Lake Four Seasons Hotel where I learned from a friend that there was a new chef from Singapore at WL Bistro， the next door restaurant that offers western food. The new chef launched a menu of eight dishes featuring the cuisine of Singapore. “Whats more， the chef is handsome，” the friend adds. I am curious and go to visit the chef.

The handsome 29-year-old Wilson Leong is the sous chef of West Lake Four Seasons. To my surprise， he is indeed young and somewhat shy even though I know such a chef is a top authority figure at the restaurant.

Unlike the chefs I have interviewed before who usually boast a wide range of travels and wok experience in many cities and even across the world， Wilson Leong has a simple and straightforward career. “I worked in Singapore and Hangzhou is the first city I have stayed for a long time after Singapore，” he confesses.

He came to Hangzhou simply because his wife is a native of Hangzhou. It sounds like a big romance， but the version he gives sounds quite simple. At 20， he met a girl from Hangzhou. He was a chef and the girl was a trainee. The two fell in love and they kept the relationship alive and burning for six years even though he was in Singapore and she in Hangzhou. In the sixth year， they married. And in the seventh year， they held a wedding banquet. In the eighth year， he came to Hangzhou. The year 2019 is the ninth year they have been together.

Why Hangzhou of all cities？ Is there any plan to move to some other cities？ Wilson Leong is puzzled by my questions. “Why would I leave？ My wife is in Hangzhou and I am certainly where she is，” says the young chef. Is there any other reason to stay in Hangzhou？ “The ecology is excellent. You see trees everywhere. And local people are friendly and warmhearted.”

Wilson Leong flew to Hangzhou three times a year when he was in Singapore and his girlfriend in Hangzhou. These short visits exposed him to the culinary delights of Hangzhou. Nowadays， he is very familiar with the local cuisine. During weekends when he is not working， he does shopping at local food markets. These food markets offer very fresh food materials and ingredients， which attract him as a chef. Of home-made delicacies of Hangzhou Cuisine， Pork Fillet with Sweet and Sour Sauce is his favorite. He also likes Wu Hill Roasted Chicken and pastry delicacies of Zhi Wei Guan Restaurant.

The Singaporean menu he designed for WL Bistro is simple enough： it is a menu of eight Singaporean delights including Bak Kut Teh， Chicken Satay Skewer， Laksa， Coconut Rice， Fried Kway Teow and Bo Bo Cha Cha. Whats so special about these eight delicacies？ The answer comes straightforward again. “Thats because they are my favorites.” The food ingredients and seasonings for these eight dishes are imported， reflecting the quality control of the five-star hotel where he works. The chef maintains the original flavor of the delicacies that he has enjoyed all his life since his toddler years. For ordinary diners and gourmets in Hangzhou， the young chef slightly reduces the hotness of these dishes.

I ask Leong how he started as a chef and whether anyone in his family works as a chef. Again to my surprise， he says he is the only chef in the family. All others are teachers. I jokingly ask if he wanted to be a chef simply because he wasnt academically brilliant. His answer is laconic again， “Right.” He doesnt have a passion for office work. He thinks it nice to cook.

The interview ends when we compare our favorite dishes. At last I find we have something common to us. The first dish I learned to cook was an egg dish. So was the first dish he learned to cook.