克拉科夫：當(dāng)海洋遇見(jiàn)草原

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上帝似乎格外鐘愛(ài)克拉科夫，二戰(zhàn)期間，這座中世紀(jì)古都在波蘭滅國(guó)時(shí)竟奇跡般地躲過(guò)了戰(zhàn)火和炮彈。

一段源遠(yuǎn)流長(zhǎng)的波蘭首府史與數(shù)次主權(quán)易手他國(guó)的淪陷史在這里交織，讓克拉科夫成為中歐最迷人的旅游目的地之一，在現(xiàn)代與歷史、抗?fàn)幣c屈服、民主與暴力的天秤上不斷平衡，在正反左右之間徘徊選擇。

It seems that Kraków is especially favored by God.During the World War II, this ancient capital in the Middle Ages miraculously escaped the warfare and cannonball.

With the long history of being the capital of Poland and being occupied by the enemies with sovereignty falling into other countries’ hands for several times,Kraków has been one of the most fascinating tourist destinations in the central Europe. Where, the modernity and history, resistance and surrender, democracy and violence keep balance and left and right wander.

歷史鐫刻著鎏金歲月

Gold Years Engraved By the History

1038年到17世紀(jì)前，克拉科夫一直是波蘭的首都，直到波蘭王國(guó)及立陶宛大公國(guó)聯(lián)邦成立四十年遷都華沙后，才失去了政治中心的地位。

但在波蘭的黃金歷史上，位于西歐海洋文明與遠(yuǎn)東草原文明碰撞交界點(diǎn)的克拉科夫，創(chuàng)造和保留著燦爛輝煌的中世紀(jì)和文藝復(fù)興時(shí)期文化，諸如發(fā)表“日心說(shuō)”的天文家哥白尼曾在此就讀大學(xué)，博物館珍藏著肖邦最后的鋼琴，當(dāng)?shù)貦C(jī)場(chǎng)以大教宗約翰·保羅二世命名……

盡管克拉科夫也跟命運(yùn)多舛的波蘭一樣遭遇了慘痛的摧殘和浮沉，所幸的是古城依然保留著中世紀(jì)的基本樣貌，1978年被列入世界文化遺產(chǎn)名錄，供世人跨越時(shí)空共享那段煙波浩渺的鎏金歲月。

了解這座城市的首都史，不妨從金碧輝煌的瓦維爾山開(kāi)始。

坐落在古城之南的石灰?guī)r山丘瓦之巔是歷代波蘭王室和主教活躍的主舞臺(tái)。哥特式建筑風(fēng)格的瓦維爾城堡是波蘭舊都的權(quán)力象征、中世紀(jì)克拉科夫的形象代言，曾經(jīng)抵擋過(guò)“上帝之鞭”蒙古鐵騎的進(jìn)攻，這絕對(duì)是歐洲城堡史上濃墨重彩的一筆。如今依然富麗堂皇的國(guó)事廳是最華麗的建筑主體之一，皇家私人寓所同樣美輪美奐，皇家財(cái)寶庫(kù)與軍械部則炫耀著輝煌時(shí)代權(quán)力的游戲，東方藝術(shù)博物館展出了歐洲皇室對(duì)近東、中東和遠(yuǎn)東藝術(shù)的異域風(fēng)情收藏癖是如何實(shí)現(xiàn)的，“失落的瓦維爾”則是一座考古史博物館。

瓦維爾皇家花園與城堡

波蘭餃子與烤肉組合

城堡建筑之間，聳立著瓦維爾主教座堂，波蘭王室在此加冕成就人生巔峰，最終塵歸塵土歸土，死后又多安葬于此。此外，也有很多波蘭名人長(zhǎng)眠于斯，這里是波蘭名副其實(shí)的國(guó)家圣殿。教堂南端的西吉斯蒙德小教堂建成于1539年，據(jù)說(shuō)圓頂是黃金打造的，安葬著同名國(guó)王一世和二世，是極純凈的文藝復(fù)興建筑。

Kraków had been the capital of Poland from 1038 till the 17th century. It hadn’t lost its status as political center until the Kingdom of Poland and Commonwealth of Grand Duchy of Lithuania moved the capital to Warsaw when it was founded for 40 years.

However, in Poland’s golden history, Kraków,located at the junction point where western European maritime civilization and far east prairie civilization collided, had created and maintained the glorious and resplendent culture in the Middle Ages as well as the renaissance culture, such as the university where Copernicus the astronomer, who published “heliocentric theory”once studied here, the museum where the last piano played by Chopin and the local airport which was named with the Pope John Paul II...

Though Kraków had suffered painful destroy, sink and emerge, just like its country Poland, which suffered many mishaps, it is fortunate that the ancient city still has kept the basic looks of that in the Middle Ages. In 1978, it was listed in the World Heritage List for people of the world to span time and space to share the remote and unforgettable golden years.

To have a knowledge of the capital history of the city, we might start from the magnificent Wawel.

Situated in the limestone massif in the south of the ancient city is the main stage for the Poland royal families and bishop to live for the past dynasties. Wawel Castle in Gothic style is the symbol of power of Poland’s former capital and representative of image of Kraków in the Middle Ages. It once resisted the attack of Mongolia cavalry, renowned as “Scourge of God”,and this is absolutely the most splendid chapter of the masterpiece of European Castle History. Nowadays, the grand State Room is still one of the most magnificent building structures; the private home for royal families is incredibly beautiful and the royal treasury and ordnance department exhibit the game of thrones in the glory ages; the Oriental Art Museum displays the artistic works from Near East, Middle East and Far East collected by European royal household and shows how its collectomania is realized; “The Lost Wawel” is a museum of archaeology.

Wawel Cathedral stands on the castle buildings and it is the place where Poland royal house coronated and reached their pinnacle of life and at last were buried here after they died. In addition, many celebrities in Poland also lied and rested here and this is the genuine national temple in Poland. The Sigismund’s Chapel at the south end of the Cathedral was built in 1539. It is said that the dome was built by god and Sigismund King I and II were buried here, which is a pure renaissance architecture.

探訪老城的中世紀(jì)魅力

Pay A Visit to the Old Town to Enjoy the Charm of Middle Ages

若不想體驗(yàn)沉重的歷史，在皇家花園散步或者坐在城堡上眺望維斯瓦河，或者在河對(duì)岸搭乘熱氣球鳥(niǎo)瞰全景，都是絕妙的消遣。

當(dāng)然，皇室和宗教都未必太有距離感，穿行在老城中探訪中世紀(jì)的魅力才是正經(jīng)事呢！

中央集市廣場(chǎng)是古城的心臟，是這座城市永葆活力的秘密之源。中央集市廣場(chǎng)始建于1257年，是歐洲最大的中世紀(jì)廣場(chǎng)，長(zhǎng)寬各約200米。同樣是中世紀(jì)市政廣場(chǎng)，比佛羅倫薩領(lǐng)主廣場(chǎng)開(kāi)闊、比錫耶納田野廣場(chǎng)方正、比塔林市政廣場(chǎng)大氣、比布魯塞爾大廣場(chǎng)精致。

高約70米的市政廳鐘樓是古城的天際線，看起來(lái)像鎮(zhèn)妖利劍，誓要斬盡一切魑魅魍魎。事實(shí)上，鐘樓地下層是一座陰森恐怖的監(jiān)獄。與鐘樓渾然一體的，則是廣場(chǎng)中心的紡織會(huì)館，這座文藝復(fù)興建筑見(jiàn)證了克拉科夫的興衰沉浮，這里既接納來(lái)自東方的香料絲綢，也出口維利奇卡鹽礦出產(chǎn)的鹽，國(guó)際貿(mào)易一度興旺繁榮。

最詭譎的是，這座建筑至今在審美與世俗之間尋求折衷，樓上是國(guó)家美術(shù)館，展出19世紀(jì)的波蘭繪畫(huà)與雕塑；樓下是“市列珠璣、戶盈羅綺”的工藝品市場(chǎng)，人頭攢動(dòng)、熙熙攘攘，充滿著煙火市井的氣息，讓人感動(dòng)。

廣場(chǎng)東北是比鐘樓更高的、更有儀式感的圣母圣殿（圣瑪麗教堂），這座被稱為“波蘭主教座堂風(fēng)格”的圣殿，是海外波蘭人建設(shè)當(dāng)?shù)厣鐓^(qū)宗教場(chǎng)所的范本。哥特式建筑主題和木制祭壇是看點(diǎn)，但最令人關(guān)注的還是每小時(shí)都會(huì)從頂端響起的號(hào)角聲，據(jù)稱是紀(jì)念抗擊蒙古軍隊(duì)攻城時(shí)，報(bào)警遇害的小號(hào)角手。

走出這個(gè)中心區(qū)域，在古城中隨意游走同樣充滿驚喜。熱情友善的克拉科夫居民的各色商店、餐館、旅社、酒吧，以最具當(dāng)?shù)靥厣馁u點(diǎn)延請(qǐng)客人，用小波蘭的方式銘刻克拉科夫的城市記憶。

以美食為例，并不需要刻意去點(diǎn)評(píng)榜上的名店，很多餐廳名不見(jiàn)經(jīng)傳，但有種濃郁的藝術(shù)裝修風(fēng)格和一流的大廚水準(zhǔn)，嘗一下波蘭餃子、波蘭香腸、波蘭血腸、紅菜頭湯、灌湯面包、豬肉蘋果泥……聽(tīng)來(lái)是不是讓人口舌生津？

其實(shí)，這里的美食比較接近東歐風(fēng)味，味道也很可口。最重要的是，價(jià)格真的很“親民”，相比西歐價(jià)格要便宜三分之一左右，更別提北歐。

或者要一杯飲品，咖啡或啤酒，坐在廣場(chǎng)旁的小店，喂喂鴿子、曬曬太陽(yáng)，偷得浮生半日閑，體會(huì)古城人民是如何在歷史與現(xiàn)代之間尋求內(nèi)心的平衡，如此接地氣地生活在這樣的鐘靈毓秀之地。如果還不累，或可以沿著古城的八個(gè)老城門走一圈，或是去東南邊的卡齊米區(qū)猶太人區(qū)轉(zhuǎn)轉(zhuǎn)，都是體驗(yàn)克拉科夫最親近的方式。

If you don’t feel like experiencing the heavy history and want to take a walk in the Royal Garden or just sit on the castle to overlook the Vistula, or ride the hot air balloon at the opposite bank to get a bird’s-eye view, all will be excellent pastime.

Certainly, the royal and religion don’t always give us a sense of distance and it is a marvelous experience to pass through the old town to visit the charm of Middle Ages!

Rynek G?ówny is the heart of the old town, which is also the source of secret that the city always keeps the vitality. Built in 1257, Rynek G?ówny is the largest square in the Middle Ages in Europe with about 200m in the length and width. It is also the municipal square in the Middle Ages, which is more open than Piazza della Signoria in Florence, more square than Piazza del Campo in Siena, more grand than Tallinn Municipal Square and more exquisite than Grand Place in Brussels.

The municipal hall bell tower is the skyline of the ancient city, which looks like a sharp sword that can kill all sorts of evil spirits. In fact, the basement of bell tower is a spooky and horrible prison. A unified entity of bell tower is the Sukiennice, Cloth Hall at the center of the square. This renaissance architecture has witnessed the rise and fall of Kraków, where the spice and silk from the oriental were imported and the salt produced by Wieliczka Salt Mine was exported. The international trade once was very thriving and prosperous here.

What is ingenious is that this building is still seeking for compromise between the aesthetic and wordly.The upper storey is the National Art Gallery exhibiting the Poland paintings and sculpture in the 19th century.While the lower storey is the craft market with a wide variety of commodities, where it is bustling and crowded full of vitality.

Situated at the northeast of the square, taller and more ritual than bell tower is the Basilica of Our Lady (St Mary’s Basilica). As a holy basilica reputed as “Poland cathedral style”, it is the model for oversea Polish to build local community and religious places. The Gothic architecture theme and wooden altar are the features,but what is more attractive is the clarino ringing out from the top every hour. It is said that this is to commemorate the bugle boy who was killed by his giving an alarm when the Mongolian army attacked the city.

If you walk out of the central zone, you will also be pleasantly surprised by wandering at will in the ancient city. The hospital and friendly citizens, all kinds of stores, restaurants, hotels and bars will all impress you.They entertain the guests with the most fascinating local style to engrave the city memory of Kraków with their own local way.

Let’s take the food for example. We don’t need to surf the internet to search which restaurants are good,because we will find many little known restaurants are very impressive with their strong artistic decoration style and first-class cooking. Just take a taste of Pierogi,Polish Sausage, blood sausage, beetroot soup, bread in soup and pork apple mud, it will will attract your taste bud and stimulate your appetite.

The food here is close to Eastern Europe flavor and it is very delicious. What’s more, the price is very cheap, about 1/3 cheaper than that in Western Europe,let alone Northern Europe.

You may order a cup of drink, coffee or beer, sit in a small store of the square, feed the pigeons or bask in the sun to find a moment of leisure and experience how the ancient city people seek for a balanced state of mind between the history and modern times. If you are still not tired, you can walk around the eight old gates or stroll in the Kazimierz District or ghetto at the southeast of the ancient city, which are all the excellent ways to experience the Kraków to the most.

那一抹無(wú)法磨滅的記憶

Formidable Wind and Snow:Minimum Respect for Winter

克拉科夫不可不提的淪陷史上最黑暗時(shí)期的見(jiàn)證，莫過(guò)于奧斯威辛-比克瑙集中營(yíng)。但凡有點(diǎn)二戰(zhàn)記憶的，都不可能忘卻納粹德國(guó)對(duì)猶太人種族滅絕式的屠殺，在電影如《辛德勒的名單》《美麗人生》《穿條紋睡衣的男孩》等佳作里，都有很好的描繪與敘述，但真真切切置身于集中營(yíng)中時(shí)，那種絕望和恐懼是摧毀式的直擊人心。

從克拉科夫乘坐便捷的旅游巴士直達(dá)奧斯維辛，正好下著暴雨，原本溫暖的天氣一下子變得“天陰雨濕聲啾啾”。這座廢棄軍營(yíng)從1940年起變成人間煉獄，能夠從事勞動(dòng)的知識(shí)分子、戰(zhàn)俘、罪犯、同性戀者被關(guān)押于此，為戰(zhàn)爭(zhēng)機(jī)器運(yùn)作而轉(zhuǎn)動(dòng)，而更多的猶太人、婦女、兒童、老人、傷殘者就直接處決。

奧斯維辛集中營(yíng)博物館展出了二戰(zhàn)期間被戕害的100萬(wàn)以上受害者的生存狀態(tài)與當(dāng)時(shí)的國(guó)際關(guān)系，最令人毛骨悚然的是，除了隨身財(cái)物被剝奪之外，連死者的金牙、頭發(fā)、皮膚、脂肪都被完全利用，用來(lái)編織毛毯、制造肥皂或熔鑄金幣。二號(hào)比克瑙集中營(yíng)則更喪心病狂，一段鐵路把囚犯拉進(jìn)集中營(yíng)篩選，幾百座木排房條件比奧斯維辛更惡劣，因?yàn)檫@里被定性為“滅絕營(yíng)”，最恐怖的是行刑場(chǎng)和毒氣室，說(shuō)是給囚犯“洗澡”，脫光之后就直接用氯化氫大規(guī)模毒殺，再送進(jìn)焚尸爐。這些從電影中看過(guò)的場(chǎng)景如此活生生出現(xiàn)在眼前，帶給心靈的沖擊和震撼是窒息式的壓抑，試想在這樣的地獄中，誰(shuí)能逃此一劫？眾生平等，但愿反人類的悲劇不再重演。

承載過(guò)輝煌與恥辱的克拉科夫，在新時(shí)代還煥發(fā)著盎然的生機(jī)。愛(ài)好和平、力求和諧，是克拉科夫的城市品格，維系著歷史賦予它的溫文儒雅和親和包容的特質(zhì)，續(xù)寫(xiě)著波蘭歷史不平凡的新一頁(yè)。

We couldn’t help but mention the darkest period of the history of Kraków-Auschwitz-Birkenau. Anyone who knows something of WWII would never forget the genocide massacre that Nazi Germany did to the Jews.The films such as Schindler’s List, Life Is Beautiful,The Boy In The Striped Pyjamas have well described and portrayed the cruel scenes. But if you truly put yourself in it, you will feel the direct stroke of despair and fear and that is destructive.

比克瑙的地獄之門

When we took a tourist bus from Kraków to Auschwitz, it was raining cats and dogs and the warm weather suddenly became overcast and wet. This discarded military camp had been the living hell since 1940, where all kinds of intellectuals, prisoners of war,criminals and gays who could still work were locked up here to work for the war machine operation. While more Jews, women, children, elders and disabled were put to death directly here.

Auschwitz Concentration Camp Museum has displayed the survival conditions of more than 1 million victims killed during WWII and the then international relationship. What is creepy is except that the deceased’s belongings was robbed, their gold teeth,hair, skin and fat were made full use to weave blanket,make soap or cast gold coin. The Birkenau Concentration Camp was more frenzied because it was called “extermination camp”. And the most terrifying things were execution field and gas chamber. They called it “wash”for the prisoners and then killed them with poisonous hydrogen chloride after they took off the clothes and then sent them to the cinerator. When the scenes which used to appear in the films appeared in front of your eyes,you will feel the heart shock and suffocated suppression.Who could escape from the disaster in such a hell? Everyone is equal! We sincerely hope that the antihuman tragedy won’t repeat.

Kraków, a city bearing the glory and hulimiation, is still vibrant with life in the new age. Loving peace and striving for harmony is the city character of Kraków,which is maintaining the culture granted by the history and writing the new page of extraordinary history of Poland.