隱藏山野的金城湯池

◇文|本刊記者 胡 婷 圖|游 宇

在重慶墊江縣百家鎮(zhèn)，一個(gè)叫鶴游坪的地方，有一座“世界上最大的山寨式城堡”。這座山寨式城堡面積167平方公里，與長壽湖相鄰。

在低丘矮陵中，偶然入眼的城垣斷壁，掩藏在草木中的廢墟，打開了歷史的煙云。

In Heyouping of Baijia Town,Chongqing sits “the world’s largest fastness castle” which covers an area of 167 km2and is adjacent to Changshou Lake.

Dilapidated cities and ruins are hidden in the woods and hills witness the historical upheavals here.

遺跡尚存的城門寨卡Remains of City Gates

從墊江縣城出發(fā)到百家鎮(zhèn)靜風(fēng)村，再從鄉(xiāng)村公路轉(zhuǎn)上一條岔路，一直往前，便能見到一座殘存的大門，叫做“天六門大卡”。天六門依山而建，坐北朝南，門前是懸崖絕壁，地勢險(xiǎn)要。

天六門卡居高地而建，卡高5米，寬9米，全為條石砌成。城門石質(zhì)拱形，拱頂由十余塊長達(dá)三米的條石砌成?？ㄩT上方有一塊匾額，匾額構(gòu)圖講究，朵朵祥云飄繞其間，中書楷體“天六門”三個(gè)大字，陰刻平雕。左右兩邊門坊上有楷書陰刻對聯(lián)——險(xiǎn)道嚴(yán)關(guān)雄百二，高盤古剎冠三千。文字在“文革”期間被破壞，現(xiàn)存模糊外形，但仍依稀可辨。

城門內(nèi)，城門上方和中間的位置都鑿有左右對稱的石孔。根據(jù)石孔的形狀及大小，可以推測這些石洞應(yīng)該是在關(guān)閉城門時(shí)插門閂的閂孔。

當(dāng)?shù)乩先苏f，天六門大卡兩側(cè)還延伸有40余米的寨墻，都是由巖石砌成，如今都已被破壞。

從史料上看，鶴游坪是一個(gè)長35公里，寬15公里的孤高臺地，“坪”的四周都是懸崖絕壁。古城堡的城墻正是一條沿著巖輪（即坪的四周邊緣）依山勢而建的、高5～10米、寬3～4米、周長達(dá)105公里（有些地方是利用懸?guī)r峭壁）的城墻。

在通往坪上交通要道處所修建的城門，被稱為“卡子”。其中，重要的地方叫“大卡”，為拱型石料建筑城門設(shè)施。一般的地方叫“小卡”，為平型石料建筑城門設(shè)施。還有少數(shù)特別重要的地方，同時(shí)在相隔不遠(yuǎn)處建有大卡和小卡。在卡子與卡子之間，是用大型條石壘成的石墻相互連接起來的，構(gòu)成了卡連路、路通卡，形成了“有路必有卡，每卡必有堅(jiān)固的石門封鎖”的完整防御體系。

Travelling from Dianjiang County to Jingfeng Village,you can see a desolated gate named “Tianliumen Gate” standing on a branch of a country road.Seated facing the south,the gate perched against mountains and at the edge of cliffs,enjoying precipitous terrain.

Built on a highland,the stone gate was 5 meters tall and 9 meters wide. It was shaped into an arch with a vault piled by over ten 3-meter-long stone.Above the gate hung a horizontal inscribed board carved with three Chinese characters “Tian Liu Men” written in regular script in the middle which was surrounded by auspicious clouds. Characters of the couplet carved on the two pillars were sabotaged during the Cultural Revolution Period (1966-1976),but visitors can still tell the contents through their rough shapes.

Symmetrical stone holes were chiseled above and in the middle of the city gate. According to the shape and size of these holes,we can speculate that they were used to insert the latch when it was needed to close the gate.

Local seniors introduced that there were over 40 meters of rock walls stretching from both sides of the gate,but were all destroyed to ruins.

According to historical records,Heyouping was an isolated highland extending 35km from north to south and 15km from east to west,and surrounded by cliffs. With heights ranging from 5 to 10m,widths from 3 to 4m and a perimeter of 105km (including some parts of cliffs),city walls of the ancient castle were built along the edges of the highland.

City gates built on the paths to the highland were called “Qiazi”,of which the vital ones called“Daqia” were made of arch-shaped stone and the common ones called “Xiaoqia” were made of flatshaped stone. Additionally,both kinds of Qiazi would be set at few places with great significance.Between these gates,long giant stone was piled to link them,and thus formed an integrated defensive system featuring “one path,one Qiazi,one firm rock gate”.

世界最大的軍事古城堡The World’s Largest Ancient Military Castle

曾有民諺這樣描述：“墊江的城墻豐都的街，分州的衙門朝廷的官。”鶴游坪古城堡以其城垣之長，城門之多，城堡面積之大，極為罕見。

根據(jù)衛(wèi)星地圖資料初步計(jì)算，鶴游坪古堡城垣長度為80公里。有人說，由于鶴游坪古城的城垣是依照其四周巖輪來修筑的，不是標(biāo)準(zhǔn)的直線或者圓弧，而是天然的折線形，其城垣長度應(yīng)遠(yuǎn)超80公里。

按城垣長度計(jì)算，國外最大的是法國巴黎的城垣，長度為29.5公里。在國內(nèi)，已公認(rèn)的最大古城是明代的南京城，其城墻總長35.267公里。從現(xiàn)在有資料來看，鶴游坪應(yīng)是世界上城垣最長的古城。

鶴游坪共建有36個(gè)大城門和72個(gè)小城門，不少地方還留有卡子和城墻遺址。由于年代久遠(yuǎn)，72個(gè)小卡遺址現(xiàn)在缺乏詳細(xì)的資料，但36個(gè)大卡，卻都有跡可循。

在鶴游坪古城堡，其城垣內(nèi)有嚴(yán)家、百家等鄉(xiāng)場8個(gè)。

為何要在鶴游坪修建如此龐大的軍事古堡？

據(jù)《墊江縣志》載，墊江鶴游坪古城堡建于清嘉七年(1802年)，當(dāng)時(shí)，這里發(fā)生了川陜白蓮教大起義，起初由劉義順發(fā)動(dòng)。起義失敗后，劉文澧以辦團(tuán)練為名，暗中打造兵器，組織教徒訓(xùn)練。1857年3月3日(清嘉慶七年農(nóng)歷二月初八) 午夜，劉文澧率領(lǐng)三百多人祭旗起義。義軍頭包青布，身穿青褂，手執(zhí)黑旗，稱為“青號軍”，攻入分州城，給清廷極大震動(dòng)。后來，清廷派出大軍，鎮(zhèn)壓了起義。

隨后，清廷在鶴游坪設(shè)立涪州分州同署，也就是現(xiàn)在的地級市，“因舊寨為城，名保和城”，當(dāng)?shù)鼐用穹Q“分州城”，首任州官殷輅打著保一方平安、加強(qiáng)安全措施的旗號，發(fā)動(dòng)紳士和民眾，在鶴游坪建筑防御工事。

由此，鶴游坪古堡便出現(xiàn)在世人面前。

As the saying goes,“Dianjiang is rich in city walls while Fengdu in streets.” the Heyouping Ancient Castle was renowned for its rarity in long city walls,numerous city gates and extensive areas.

According to the primary calculation from satellite maps,it is estimated that city walls of the Heyouping Ancient Castle stretched 80 kilometers.Some people,however,said that the exact length of the city walls were far more than that figure because they were built to broken lines in accordance with the outline of surrounding rocks.

Calculated by the length of city wall,the one in Paris tops foreign countries with a length of 29.5 kilometers. In China,the largest ancient city that has been generally acknowledged is the Nanjing City in the Ming Dynasty (1368-1644),with a total length of 35.267 kilometers of city walls. Judging from current documents,Heyouping should be the ancient city with the world’s longest city walls.

Heyouping was home to 36 large city gates and 72 small ones,and a few places still reserve remains of Qiazi and city walls. Although data of the small city gates were gone in the long river of history,but the large ones still have traces to learn.

The Heyouping Ancient Castle boasted 8 markets such as Yanjia Market and Baijia Market.

Why would the ancient people build such an enormous military castle in Heyouping?

According to The History of Dianjiang County,the Heyouping Ancient Castle was built in the seventh year of Emperor Jiaqing of the Qing Dynasty(1802) when Liu Yishun started the White Lotus Society Uprising. After the failure of the first uprising,Liu Wenli forged weapons and arranged training under the table with an excuse of organizing a militia. In the midnight of March 3,1857 (the 8th day of February in the Chinese lunar calendar),Liu launched another uprising with over 300 men. The insurrectionary army dressed in indigo and holding black flags invaded Fenzhou City,shocking the Qing Government. But the uprising was then put down by the government army deployed by the ruler.

After that,the Qing Government established an administrative area to rule Fuzhou and Fenzhou which are the current prefecture-level cities. The locals called the area “Fenzhou City”. Under the banner of maintaining peace and strengthening safety measures,the first officer Yin Lu advocated squires and the public to build fortifications in Heyouping.

The Heyouping Ancient Castle,therefore,made its appearance in the world.

城中堡壘的層層防御Layers of Fortifications in the Castle

大城堡內(nèi)的小城堡，當(dāng)?shù)厝朔Q為寨。在鶴游坪，不僅有龐大的軍事古堡，大城內(nèi)又有小城，小城內(nèi)又有石寨和碉樓，形成了嚴(yán)密的防御格局。

越過天六門卡，約一公里路程，便到了永平寨。站在遠(yuǎn)處放眼望去，巍巍古寨雄踞坪南，綿綿城堡坐鎮(zhèn)山崗。寨子依山而建，地勢高陡，寨墻基座和墻體下半部分均用巖石砌成，寨子被高高的寨墻環(huán)繞，氣勢磅礴。

在鶴游坪，共建有48座較大的石寨，在國內(nèi)十分罕見。

站在寨門前，依稀可見大寨門上用楷書刻的一副楹聯(lián)——雄踞坪南如磐石固，險(xiǎn)塞川東似泰山安。寨門上方的匾上有“咸豐七年又五月初十立”題記。

寨分為內(nèi)外兩層，外寨占地40畝，內(nèi)寨占地10畝，內(nèi)寨城墻高5米以上，墻厚3米。

清代嘉慶年間，鶴游坪出了一個(gè)大富紳，就是居住在緣柏山的何拔。據(jù)《何氏族譜》記載，何拔的祖先是元代至正年間“湖廣填四川”時(shí)，由麻城遷到鶴游坪的。經(jīng)數(shù)代經(jīng)營，創(chuàng)業(yè)有成，到了何拔這一代，已擁有3000多石地租的田產(chǎn)，成了鶴游坪上第一首富。

到清代中葉，白蓮教起義引發(fā)戰(zhàn)亂。何拔為了保衛(wèi)家園，就和兒子何南亭商量，籌劃修建石寨，以求安居樂業(yè)。

何拔父子獨(dú)自出資修寨，花了不少錢糧，從清代道光二十八年至咸豐七年（公元1848-1857年），歷經(jīng)10年終于把石寨建成。為圖永久太平，何拔父子將石寨命名為“永平寨”。

然而，卻未能如愿。

走進(jìn)永平寨內(nèi)，寨門兩側(cè)設(shè)置炮臺，作打槍、放炮之用。當(dāng)?shù)乩先苏f：“以前這里還有木門，厚得很，外面包了鐵皮，相當(dāng)結(jié)實(shí)，還可以防彈。有土匪攻寨時(shí)，十幾個(gè)人用滾筒樹都很難撞開?！?/p>

寨內(nèi)還修有碉樓，同時(shí)也是一種更小的寨子，如封閉的亭閣，突出在村寨中。所有這些石寨的寨墻兩面，一般均用石頭砌成，中間夾土，高4～6米。寨墻上建有垛口，供瞭望、放箭、打槍之用。

民國初年，“范傻兒”的隊(duì)伍曾駐扎在鶴游坪，白家場一帶的富紳都跑到永平寨躲藏。于是，“范傻兒”的部隊(duì)將永平寨團(tuán)團(tuán)圍住，企圖用困死的辦法逼寨內(nèi)人就范。

在被圍困的三個(gè)月里，寨內(nèi)的人就用平時(shí)貯存的糧食和水塘里的水維系。若有士兵爬寨墻偵察寨內(nèi)防守情況，寨內(nèi)人就用土炮射擊。

如今，鶴游坪古堡寨卡已只有斷壁殘?jiān)?。在冷兵器時(shí)代，寨卡的防御工事，為這一方百姓帶來了安定的生活。

Small forts in the large castle are called stockades by locals. Heyouping was home to a large ancient military castle,small forts,stone stockades and watchtowers,forming a tight defensive structure.

The Yongping Stockade is one kilometer away from the Tianliumen Gate. Standing afar,you can see the ancient stockade lying against mountains in South Heyouping. The terrain is steep,and the base and lower part of walls are made of rocks. Surrounded by lofty walls,the stockade shows its magnificence to visitors.

Heyouping boasts 48 relatively enormous stone stockades,which is quite rare in China.

Standing before the gate of the stockade,you can still see a couplet carved in regular script with characters “Lying in South Heyouping Like a Firm Monolith,Standing in East Sichuan Like Magnificent Mount Tai”. The plaque above the gate was carved with an inscription “Built in the 5th Day of May in the Chinese Lunar Calendar in the Seventh Year of Emperor Xianfeng of the Qing Dynasty (1857)”.

The stockade included two layers,of which the outside one covered an area of 40 mu (about 2.67 hectares) and the inside one 10 mu (about 0.67 hectares). City walls of the inside stockade were 5-plus meters tall and 3meters thick.

During the reign of Emperor Jiaqing of the Qing Dynasty (1796-1820),Heyouping was home to a rich man named He Ba who lived in Yuanboshan Mountain. According to The Family Tree of He Family,He’s ancestors moved from Macheng to Heyouping in a massive immigration happened during the reign of Emperor Huizong of the Yuan Dynasty (1341-1368). Due to the successful business ran by his elder generations,He Ba’s fields boasted an annual grain production of over 150 tons,making him the richest man in Heyouping.

As the White Lotus Society started an uprising during the middle period of the Qing Dynasty,He Ba and his son He Nanting planned to build a stone stockade to safeguard their homeland.

With a great amount of funds and grains,they spent 10 years (1848-1857) finishing the construction of the stone stockade and named it “Yongping Stockade” for everlasting peace.

However,things went contrary to their wishes.

Entering the Yongping Stockade,you can see batteries set at the both sides of the gate for shooting and artillery. “The stockade was equipped with a firm wooden gate covered with iron sheets,” local seniors said,“Even a dozen of bandits using a trunk could not burst into the gate.”

Watchtowers,also a kind of smaller stockade such as closed pavilion,were scattered in the stockade. Both sides of the walls of these stone stockades,with a height of 4-6m,were made of stone and mud.Battlements were hollowed on the wall for watching,shooting and arrows.

In the first year of the Republic of China (1912),Fan Shaozeng’s troops were stationed in Heyouping. In order to push the rich sheltering in the Yongping Stockade into surrendering,the troops besieged the stockade for three consecutive months.

During that period,people trapped in the stockade maintained their lives with grain storage and water in pools. The guardians would fire if the enemy climbed up walls to scout the defensive situation in the stockade.

Stockades of the Heyouping Ancient Castle remain ruins now. In the era of cold weapons,stockades’ fortifications brought a peaceful life for local residents.