破洞牛仔褲，來頭可不小

阿瓊

What do Henry VIII of England and the youth punk1） culture have in common？

More than you've ever thought！

Choose a pair of ripped jeans and you'll be super trendy. Skinny or high-waisted， relaxed or fitted， boyfriend， cigarette or cropped， the essential one must be ripped！

This season's popular fashion is inspired by the 1970s and not surprisingly the ripped jeans are the protagonist2） of this ultimate glamorous revival3）， which is taking inspiration from the rebel attitude of the 70's generation.

But don't be fooled by those rebellious people. They just set the ripped jeans as a status symbol， but they didn't create anything new.

During the Renaissance， a flourishing fashion habit shocked society. This extremely vain and scandalous trend consisted in cutting a garment， in order to pull the fabric from the undergarment4） through， to form puffs5）. This practice was called slashing6） and puffing.

The vertical7）， horizontal or diagonal8） slits9） in the fabric of the garment were considered as an insult， not only because the expensive fabric was irremediably10） damaged， but also because this trend was an indecent and superb showcase of the aristocratic wealth.

Slashing and puffing were the symbol of real luxury， so that the government applied sumptuary laws11）， whose intent was to restrict the use of slashing and puffing. In fact only the sleeves of the garment could be cut and the white undergarment pulled through them.

Even if the concepts behind those two practices are very different， the final intent of both is very similar. Either ripped jeans or slashing and puffing want to disobey the common taste and the common fashion rules， in order to gain attention， expressing a strong message and a firm idea.

Ripped jeans set a hedge12） between the past's fashion habits and the brand new way to wear damaged clothes. Young generations， rock-stars and innovators saw into ripped jeans the lacerations13） of a world that was irremediably changing.

On the other hand the "rock-stars" of the Renaissance （the most famous one was Henry VIII of England） were all concentrated to demonstrate their opulent14） richness， without caring about the preciousness of their marvelous fabrics.

So when you go shopping for a pair of ripped jeans， remember that the idea behind them is 500 years old and just in case you need to justify the ripped jeans to your parents and friends， you'll surely impress them with this story.

英王亨利八世

如今，破洞牛仔褲已成一種時(shí)尚，百搭又時(shí)髦，人見人愛。近來，破洞牛仔褲更有越來越破之勢，到底是什么原因呢？隨本文來一探究竟吧。

英王亨利八世和年輕人的朋克文化之間有什么共同之處？

絕對比你想的要多！

挑一條破洞牛仔褲穿上，你會(huì)變得超級時(shí)髦。不論窄腿或是高腰，休閑或是緊身，闊腿、鉛筆又或是九分褲，最重要的一點(diǎn)一定得是破洞的！

這一季的時(shí)尚潮流受20世紀(jì)70年代影響，破洞牛仔褲毫不令人意外地成為這一極具魅力的復(fù)古潮流的主角，其靈感來源是70一代的叛逆態(tài)度。

不過別被那些叛逆者糊弄，他們只是使破洞牛仔褲成了身份象征，卻并沒有任何創(chuàng)新。

在文藝復(fù)興時(shí)期，一種盛極一時(shí)的時(shí)尚習(xí)慣震驚了社會(huì)。這種極其虛榮、令人震驚的風(fēng)潮是將外套剪壞，為的是把襯衣的布料拽出來，制造出蓬蓬的效果。這一做法叫做“開縫和泡裥”。

外衣上或豎或橫或斜著的開縫在當(dāng)時(shí)被看做是一種羞辱，這不僅是因?yàn)榘嘿F的衣料被損毀后無法修復(fù)，還由于這種風(fēng)潮是對貴族財(cái)富的一種不得體的、極端的展示。

開縫和泡裥在當(dāng)時(shí)是真正奢侈的象征，因而當(dāng)時(shí)的政府實(shí)行了節(jié)約法令，意圖限制開縫和泡裥的使用。事實(shí)上，只有外套的袖子可以被剪壞，白色襯衣從那里拽出來。

雖然破洞牛仔褲與開縫和泡裥背后的觀念迥然不同，但兩者最終的目的卻十分相似。不論是破洞牛仔褲還是開縫和泡裥，都意在通過違背大眾品位和大眾時(shí)尚規(guī)則來贏得人們的關(guān)注，傳達(dá)一種強(qiáng)烈的信息和堅(jiān)定的信念。

破洞牛仔褲在傳統(tǒng)的時(shí)尚習(xí)慣和穿破損衣服的全新方式之間設(shè)下了一道藩籬。年輕一代、搖滾巨星以及革新者從破洞牛仔褲中看到的是一個(gè)正在經(jīng)歷不可逆轉(zhuǎn)變化的世界中的道道裂縫。

另一方面，文藝復(fù)興時(shí)期的“搖滾巨星”（最著名的要數(shù)英王亨利八世）都挖空了心思來展示他們驚人的財(cái)富，毫不在意他們所穿的華麗衣料有多珍貴。

所以，當(dāng)你打算買一條破洞牛仔褲時(shí)，記得它背后的理念已有500年歷史，萬一你需要在你的父母和朋友面前為破洞牛仔褲正名，用這個(gè)故事一定會(huì)讓他們印象深刻。

1. punk [p??k] n. 朋克，是一種源于20世紀(jì)60年代的簡單搖滾樂，不太講究音樂技巧，更加傾向于思想解放和反主流的尖銳立場。后來催生了朋克文化。

2. protagonist [pr??t?ɡ?n?st] n. 主角

3. revival [r??va?vl] n. 復(fù)興；重新流行

4. undergarment [??nd?ɡɑ?m?nt] n. 襯衣，內(nèi)衣

5. puff [p?f] n. （衣服等上的）泡裥；vt. 使成蓬松的圓形（或圓筒形）

6. slash [sl??] v. 割破。這里指為衣服開縫。

7. vertical [?v??t?kl] adj. 垂直的

8. diagonal [da???ɡ?nl] adj. 對角線的

9. slit [sl?t] n. 裂縫

10. irremediably [??r??mi?di?bli] adv. 無法補(bǔ)救地

11. sumptuary law： 節(jié)約條例，禁止奢侈的法令

12. hedge [hed?] n. 樹籬

13. laceration [?l?s??re??n] n. 裂口

14. opulent [??pj?l?nt] adj. 豪華的；奢侈的