上海靜安香格里拉大酒店餐飲一瞥 精致與傳統(tǒng)的珠聯(lián)璧合

餐飲，應(yīng)該是當(dāng)今世界品牌酒店不容忽視的組成部分，也是體現(xiàn)酒店水準(zhǔn)的重要標(biāo)志。

陽(yáng)春三月，正是江南水木清華的季節(jié)，我應(yīng)邀在上海靜安香格里拉酒店小住三日，體驗(yàn)了這家酒店幾間不同風(fēng)格的餐廳。這家酒店坐落在上海最具代表性的繁華地段，可謂上海舊時(shí)文化與現(xiàn)代文明結(jié)合的地標(biāo)性建筑。

酒店的幾間餐廳都非常具有代表性，如位于一層的兩家格調(diào)迥異的咖啡廳、位于二層的“鶴”日式餐廳、位于三層有著寬大面積、以經(jīng)營(yíng)粵菜和淮揚(yáng)菜系為主的“夏宮”中餐廳、位于四層別具特色的“1515”牛排館，以及坐落在主樓一側(cè)、休閑而別致的“CALYPSO”地中海餐廳。由于時(shí)間倉(cāng)促，此次上海之行僅體驗(yàn)了“夏宮”與“鶴”，及夏宮中餐廳的廣式早茶，至返，余味仍繞梁不覺(jué)。

C

atering， an indispensable part of brand hotels in the current world， is an important indication of a hotel's standard.

In the lovely springtime of March， I was invited to Jing An Shangri-La， West Shanghai for a three-day stay to experience the hotel's several diverse restaurants. The hotel is located in one of Shanghai's most prestigious and fashionable business and commercial districts， and can be described as a landmark building featuring old Shanghai culture and modern civilization.

The hotel features several representative restaurants； CAFé LIANG with multiple dining options on Level 1；The Summer Palace that offers Huaiyang and Cantonese cuisines on the third level； TSURU Japanese Restaurant on Level 2； The 1515 West， Chophouse Bar on Level 4； and the modern Mediterranean restaurant Calypso located in the hotel piazza. Due to the tight schedule， I was only able to savor the cuisine from TSURU and the Summer Palace， including Cantonese breakfast from the latter， but the good tastes lingered on even after my departure.

Summer Palace

豐儉由人的夏宮

Fancy or Simple， According to Your Preference

一般而言，酒店餐飲很難做到住宿賓客與社會(huì)需求的兼顧，而夏宮卻很突出地將二者融為一體。當(dāng)酒店的市場(chǎng)傳媒總監(jiān)Elizabeth Wan小姐準(zhǔn)時(shí)在晚六點(diǎn)半陪我到達(dá)餐廳之時(shí)，這里幾乎已經(jīng)座無(wú)虛席。據(jù)觀察，非酒店住宿的中外客人大約占了一半以上，這在多數(shù)豪華五星級(jí)酒店中是很難做到的。其實(shí)，國(guó)外的酒店餐廳多沒(méi)有“包間”，但是開(kāi)放式餐廳的空間卻很大，夏宮正是參考了這樣的布局方式：大廳安靜而溫馨，典雅的色調(diào)與餐具交相輝映。

主人精心安排了菜品，由四色涼菜、一道分餐的野竹笙百合燉干貝、四色主菜和兩道點(diǎn)心組成。量不大，卻葷素相宜，看得出既有傳統(tǒng)粵菜的鹵味燒臘、淮揚(yáng)菜的清淡時(shí)蔬，又有新派的舶來(lái)借鑒，很適合上海文化的特點(diǎn)。做為冷菜的牡丹蝦仁很有創(chuàng)意，蝦仁清淡爽脆，卻又鮮香適口，是值得提倡的創(chuàng)新。燒臘是明檔操作裝盤(pán)，兩道點(diǎn)心將傳統(tǒng)的普羅大眾點(diǎn)心精致化。龍蝦采用了焗面的做法，湯汁沁入煨面，韻味深厚，濃淡恰到好處。

餐廳中餐主廚廖自力先生來(lái)自香港，年富力強(qiáng)，主理粵菜已經(jīng)有27年的歷史，多次獲獎(jiǎng)金牌，是法國(guó)美食協(xié)會(huì)金牌廚師會(huì)員，致力于粵菜的推陳出新和養(yǎng)生觀念。見(jiàn)面時(shí)，他一再真摯地征求對(duì)餐廳出品的意見(jiàn)，顯然是一位進(jìn)取心很強(qiáng)，卻又謙和誠(chéng)懇的大師。其實(shí)，餐廳火爆的店堂氣氛已經(jīng)對(duì)他主理的夏宮給予了無(wú)言的贊美。在這里，我還受到餐廳行政總廚Shane Oneill的熱情歡迎。

Generally speaking， it is difficult for the hotel's food beverages to accommodate both the needs of the staying guests and outside visitors； however， the Summer Palace skilfully integrates both. When Miss Elizabeth Wan， director of communications， accompanied me to the restaurant promptly at half past six， the restaurant was almost fully packed. In my observation， a mix of Chinese and foreign guests from outside the hotel accounted for more than half of the guests here， which is rarely seen in most luxury five-star hotels. In fact， most foreign hotel restaurants do not have private boxes， but a large open dining space. The Summer Palace follows such layout： the hall feels quiet and warm， and the elegant interior colour tones and tableware complement each other.

The host carefully arranged the dishes， starting with four cold dishes， a scallop stew with wild bamboo and lily， a four-color main course and two desserts. The meal does not come in large quantity， but proportionately mixs with vegetables and meat. There are the traditional Cantonese dish of braised roasted meat， Huaiyang style vegetable dish and Western dish， which all blend in perfectly befitting the characteristics of Shanghai culture. As a cold dish， Peony Shrimp， with its crisp yet delicious taste， is a creative innovation. The roast meat is made in an open kitchen， and the two desserts have upgraded the ordinary general public desserts to a higher level. The lobster dish is cooked as lasagne， where the sauce simmers deep into the noodles.

The master chef Liao Zili is born in Hong Kong， who has specialises in Cantonese cuisine in the past 27 years and won many awards. He is the gold medal chef of the French Cuisine Association， committed to Cantonese cuisine innovation and the concept of nourishment. When we met， he sincerely inquired for my opinion many times， showing hat he is clearly a highly motivated， but modest master. In fact， the fully packed restaurant is already the true silent compliment to his management. I was also warmly welcomed by the executive chef Shane Oneill.

“TSURU”

“鶴”日餐廳：海之鮮

Japanese Restaurant： The Soul of the Sea

位于二層的日餐廳“鶴”從店堂的設(shè)計(jì)到布置都充分體現(xiàn)了濃厚的日本風(fēng)格，樸素典雅，靜謐溫和，讓人有種極度放松和安適的感覺(jué)。餐廳的副經(jīng)理朱濤（Tommy）親自為我們服務(wù)，一邊研磨著辣根，一邊介紹著餐廳的特色。

開(kāi)胃菜是酒店自己研制的芝麻豆腐，清淡而爽口，猶如清溪淺磯，引人入勝的委婉序曲。接下來(lái)是極品長(zhǎng)崎生魚(yú)片拼盤(pán)，配上新鮮辣根醬油，讓人嘗到了生魚(yú)刺身的極致。

壽司大拼盤(pán)和大蝦天婦羅拼盤(pán)將主旋律推向高潮，金槍魚(yú)、三文魚(yú)、鯛魚(yú)、黃獅魚(yú)、海膽、北極貝、加吉魚(yú)、鰹魚(yú)和魚(yú)腩，可謂海類(lèi)的薈萃，造型美麗，味覺(jué)至純，真有不忍下箸之感。值得一提的還有餐后甜品——水出玉露，色彩斑斕，精美適口，絕對(duì)是大匠的工藝，也可以說(shuō)是整個(gè)料理的完美尾聲。

日本料理總監(jiān)本田實(shí)政先生是一位具有48年料理經(jīng)驗(yàn)的廚師，在歷史悠久的灘萬(wàn)料理集團(tuán)任職27年之久，是位少言的廚藝家。對(duì)他來(lái)說(shuō)，一生所遵循的大概只有兩個(gè)漢字——敬業(yè)。應(yīng)該說(shuō)，這里的刺身和壽司都經(jīng)過(guò)本田先生親自加工，從造型到刀工無(wú)不體現(xiàn)著本田先生的敬業(yè)精神，堪稱(chēng)是一種藝術(shù)享受。

Located on the second floor， TSURU's interior decoration is inspired by the traditional culture of Japan， exuding an atmosphere of relaxation. The assistant manager Zhu Tao （Tommy）， came to our service in person and introduced us to the specialities of the restaurant.

The appetiser is the hotel-made sesame tofu and the fresh taste has certainly triggered my appetite. This is followed by Nagasaki Sashimi platter sided by fresh spicy soy sauce， the epitome of Sashimi taste.

The Sushi platter and prawn tempura combo have pushed the banquet to a climax. On the plate are tuna， salmon， sea bream， yellowtail， sea urchins， arctic shellfish， red snapper， skipjack and fish belly， all delicately arranged to form a fabulous Sashimi seascape， I almost could not bring myself to eat them. The after dinner green tea dessert is definitely worked out by a great chef. It also serves as the perfect end of the whole meal.

Chef Masami Honda has over 48 years of experience in Japanese cuisine. He has worked for the time-honoured and renowned restaurant group， Nadaman， for 27 years. For this quiet chef， dedication to work is his life decree. All the Sashimi and Sushi are carefully processed by Mr Honda himself， whose spirit shows in the shaping and cutting. Such an artistic treat， too.

The Guangdong breakfast in the Summer Palace follows the Cantonese style and achieves the ultimate taste. The careful and thoughtful service we received was unforgettable. Not only did we enjoy the feast， but also felt completely at home.

夏宮中餐廳廣東早茶完全遵循了廣式早茶的精髓，卻又做到極致。讓人難忘的是他們服務(wù)的細(xì)心和周到，不僅讓我們享受了美味，也獲得了家人一般熨帖的照顧。

入夜，從43層俯觀樓下地中海餐廳外的酒吧，雖沒(méi)有機(jī)會(huì)在那里小坐體驗(yàn)地中海風(fēng)情，卻仍心向往之，似乎也融入了那流光溢彩的都市之夜。

At night， I looked down from the 43rd storey， overlooking the bar outside the Mediterranean restaurant. Although I did not get the chance to experience the restaurant， I still yearned for it. And this yearning seemed to melt into the ambience of city night.