KAMAKURA COMES ALlVE

Text & Photos by Peter Weld Translation by Emma Xu

KAMAKURA COMES ALlVE

Text & Photos by Peter Weld Translation by Emma Xu

Everybody knows that Tokyo is the capital of Japan; many people also know that the capital used to be Kyoto. Centuries ago, however, the de facto capital—the real seat of power—was Kamakura. Today's Kamakura is a sleepy town from where most residents commute north to Yokohama and Tokyo. But even if its glory days are long behind it, Kamakura still makes a glorious day-trip from Tokyo.

The temple known as Jochiji, with its peaceful garden out back, sits at the northern end of the Daibutsu Hiking Course.凈智寺位于“大佛徒步路線”的北端，寺后有一片靜謐的園林。

鐮倉:古都春來

人人都知東京是日本現(xiàn)在的首都，京都是舊都。然而，幾百年前，真正的權(quán)力中心是鐮倉。如今，鐮倉變成了一座清冷的小鎮(zhèn)，居民大都北上橫濱和東京謀生。即使光輝歲月已經(jīng)遠去，鐮倉依舊風(fēng)光無限。

1. Ceramic foxes crowd Sasuke Inari Jinja, a little-known Shinto shrine tucked away in the hills.

佐助稲荷神社的陶瓷擺件。

2. Along with Daibutsu, Tsurugaoka Hachimangu draws some of the biggest crowds in Kamakura.

鶴岡八幡宮也是鐮倉地區(qū)吸引游客最多的景點。

A BlG BUDDHA AND A SHlNTO SHRlNE

Kamakura's heyday stretched from the late twelfth century through to the early fourteenth century. The secular buildings of that time have long since disappeared; what remains is a myriad of Buddhist temples and Shinto shrines, and a visitor could spend several fascinating days exploring them, but a single day in Kamakura would have to include at least Daibutsu and Tsurugaoka Hachimangu.

About one-and-a-half kilometres west of Kamakura Station, Daibutsu — literally, “the Big Buddha”—is arguably the town's mascot, and images of it pop up everywhere, even on the cookies in the souvenir shops. It was cast some seven centuries ago in many separate parts, which were then assembled to form a single bronze statue, over 13 metres tall. A wooden building protected it from the elements until 1498, when a tsunami carried the building away but miraculously left Daibutsu undisturbed. Today it still sits out in the open, all the more photogenic under a deep blue sky.

Back at Kamakura Station, head northeast to reach Tsurugaoka Hachimangu, one of the most important Shinto shrines in this part of the country. Shinto predates Buddhism's arrival in Japan, and it's a major part of the cultural landscape. The Japanese go to shrines for everything from traditional weddings to praying for success on entrance exams to getting blessings for their newborn babies. Interestingly, Tsurugaoka Hachimangu was both a Buddhist temple and a Shinto shrine—larger and more impressive than it is now—until an 1868 government decree that Shinto and Buddhism institutions would have to be separate.

Today's Hachimangu is all Shinto and no Buddhism and is much smaller and simpler, but it's still worth a careful inspection. Watch the locals as they write their wishes on a wooden tablet called an ema and hang it alongside hundreds of others. Watch them pull an omikuji, a slip of paper telling them their fortune, and then fold it and tie it to a tree branch. Watch how they pray: two bows, then two hand claps, then one more bow. If you're lucky, you might see a Shinto priest blessing a newborn or a newlypurchased car; if you're really lucky, you might witness a marriage procession.

It's often said that getting there is half the fun, and that's defi nitely true in Kamakura. On the east side of the station, two streets run straight all the way up to Tsurugaoka Hachimangu. The wider of the two streets is called Wakamiya-oji: one lane in each direction for cars, separated by Dankazura, a raised pedestrian lane flanked by hundreds of cherry blossom trees. Dankazura was built more than eight centuries ago on the orders of the fi rst shogun, and though it's now bustling with tourists, back then it served as a sacred approach to the shrine, off-limits to all but the highest priests and offi cials.

Running roughly parallel to Wakamiya-oji is a much narrower pedestrian lane called Komachidori. It can't boast the history that Dankazura has, but it's probably even more popular with visitors, and like Wakamiya-oji, it's lined with an amazing variety of shops, restaurants, and cafés. You could walk right up either of these streets to Tsurugaoka Hachimangu in a matter of minutes, but no matter which way you choose to go, the journey is more likely to take you a couple of hours.

BOWS AND ARROWS, SAMURAl STYLE

Kamakura offers things to do at all times of the year. In early summer, for example, you can admire the hydrangeas which bloom by the thousands, and in autumn, you can watch the leaves change color. But at this time of the year, cherry blossoms are the big attraction.

The cherry blossoms are in full bloom in the last week of March and the fi rst week of April. Flanked along its 500-metre length by nearly 250 cherry blossom trees, Dankazura is the premier spot for strolling under a canopy of pale pink flowers, both by day and by night, when they're illuminated.

As the cherry blossoms pass their prime and start to come down on everybody's head like a pink blizzard, Kamakura gears up for a series of special events. One of the most exciting is yabusame: horsemen dressed in deer hide and other Kamakura Period fi nery, riding their steeds full pelt past three targets and fi ring arrows at them. As diffi cult as it sounds, most archers manage to hit at least one of the targets, and some strike all three.

Yabusame was developed in the thirteenth century by the first shogun, Minamoto no Yoritomo, as a way for his samurais to stay sharp between battles, but after guns arrived on Japan's shores in the 1500s, it became less of a practical skill and more of a religious ritual—a way to entertain the gods. Practical or not, it's defi nitely a sight worth seeing, and it draws good-sized crowds, so get there early to stake out a spot with a clear view of the action. Yabusame is held three times a year: on the third Sunday in April, on September 16, and on one day in early October.

There's also Shizuka no Mai, or the Dance of Shizuka. It's performed on the second Sunday in April and dates back to the twelfth century. In an open-sided pavilion just below Tsurugaoka Hachimangu, a single, elaborately-costumed dancer, accompanied by flutes and shamisen, twirls slowly around the stage. The story goes that Shizuka Gozen was a professional dancer—and the mistress of the shogun's chiefrival, his younger brother. When the shogun's soldiers captured her and brought her to Kamakura to perform for him, she danced to a song whose lyrics expressed her longing for his brother. The shogun was presumably not pleased. short—about one-and-a-half hours end-to-end—and no special gear is required, so for anyone tired of Tokyo's crowded trains and buses, the trail offers a great way to get some exercise and culture at the same time.

Back in the shogun's days, the low hills that surround Kamakura on three sides (with Sagami Bay on the fourth) were crucial to the town's defenses, but today they're also home to several pleasant hiking trails. Of these the most popular is the Daibutsu Hiking Course, running north from Daibutsu to a serene Buddhist temple known as Jochiji. Along the way, hikers can drop in at the unusual Zeniarai Benzaiten: money washed at this shrine is believed to double in value. The trail is

If you prefer shopping to hiking, Kamakura's most famous local craftis Kamakura-bori: heavy, carved, lacquered wooden items. Once used solely to furnish the area's temples and shrines, these days Kamakura-bori is used to create bowls, plates, and decorative pieces. Visit Hakkodo, just south of Tsurugaoka Hachimangu, to see a fine selection and maybe visit the artisans' workshop in back of the showroom. Another popular purchase is washi, or Japanese hand-made paper. On the west side of Komachi-dori, the store called Shato offers an outstanding variety of colourful papers.

1. At Zeniarai Benten, people wash their money in the belief that it will double in value.

人們到錢洗弁天神社“洗錢”，據(jù)說洗過的錢會錢滾錢。

2. Nearly 250 cherry blossom trees line Dankazura, the approach to Tsurugaoka Hachimangu.

通往鶴岡八幡宮的“段葛”兩旁林立著近250棵櫻花樹。

3. Dating back some 800 years, Shizuka no Mai is performed every April.

“靜之舞”每年4月都會上演，帶您穿越到800多年前。

4. Central Kamakura is mostly flat, so rickshaws provide a novel way to get around.

鐮倉中部地勢較平坦，乘坐人力車會給您帶來新奇的出行體驗。

5. In the artisans’workshop behind Hakkodo, craftsmen create beautiful Kamakura-bori pieces.

博古堂后面的工匠作坊中，匠人們在制作鐮倉雕。

在《文件控制程序》中規(guī)定，構(gòu)成本實驗室管理體系的所有文件包括內(nèi)部文件和外部文件，將所內(nèi)行政公文歸屬于內(nèi)部文件。明確指出：所內(nèi)行政公文主要指限期使用或一次性執(zhí)行的臨時性所內(nèi)發(fā)文，界定了所內(nèi)行政公文的發(fā)文情形，將長期執(zhí)行、已將規(guī)定固化的所內(nèi)公文轉(zhuǎn)化成內(nèi)部管理體系文件。將行政要求作為管理手冊的一個獨立章節(jié)，包括行政管理、財務(wù)管理和科研管理，從而解決了文件和公文兩套體系并存的問題，有利于文件的執(zhí)行。

6. Little hand-dyed towels called tenugui are also popular souvenir purchases.手工染制的小毛巾也是頗受歡迎的手信。

Kids munch on pickled cucumber on a stick with a miso paste topping.孩子們恣意咀嚼著蘸有味噌醬的酸黃瓜。

KAMAKURA'S QUlRKY CUlSlNE

With so much to see and do, it's easy to work up an appetite. Kamakura is known for fish called shirasu (sometimes translated into English as “whitebait”), which are caught off the area's coast in Sagami Bay. Each one is tiny—smaller than your thumbnail—but put a pile of shirasu on top of a bowl of rice and you have shirasudon; together with a bowlof miso soup, this makes a simple, filling lunch. It's available all over town, but for the hippest setting, try Bowls, a café located on the east side of Wakamiya-oji, about half-way between Tsurugaoka Hachimangu and Kamakura Station. A little farther north, on the same side of the street, Kurara has a more traditional feel, with its restaurant built inside an old kura, or storehouse.

Komachi-dori also has plenty of places to eat. In addition to shirasudon, if it's mealtime, you can take your pick of sushi or tempura—pricey but delicious—or more affordable soba (buckwheat noodles) or tonkatsu (breaded pork cutlets). If it's snack time, try some green tea ice cream or even purple potato ice cream. There are shops selling all sorts of pickled vegetables, others selling manju—steamed buns with sweet bean paste inside—and others selling rice crackers, known as senbei in Japanese. Most shops will be happy to give you a little taste of their wares.

When you eventually reach the north end of Komachidori, you'll pass under the giant red torii, the gate which marks the entrance to a Shinto shrine. But you're not at the shrine yet, and on either side of the approach are stalls offering more exotic treats for your tastebuds. Some of them are things you might fi nd at a carnival in other countries—cotton candy and caramelized grapes, for example—but where else have you had sugary glazed strawberries on top of Ritz crackers or pickled cucumbers on a stick, with an optional misoand-mayonnaise topping?

If you visit Daibutsu, before leaving, stop for a look at the souvenir stand near the ticket window. Every tourist destination offers souvenirs for visitors to take home, but Japan is quite possibly the souvenir capital of the world. There's a tradition here of omiyage: small gifts taken home and distributed to friends and coworkers.

Whatever the reason, you'll see pencils with Daibutsu erasers, Daibutsu cell phone straps, Daibutsu hand towels, and much more. But the most popular omiyage are the edible ones, which is why you'll also find all manner of senbei, cookies, and manju shaped like Daibutsu or with his likeness on them. They're typically packaged a dozen or so to a box, all individually wrapped so that instead of presenting an entire box, you can open the box and dole out just one to each of your many acquaintances.

Keep in mind that although times are changing, many Japanese still frown on eating while walking, so it's best to sit while you eat. Remember too that those big birds circling overhead—tobi in Japanese, “black kites” in English—are famous for swooping on unsuspecting tourists and snatching whatever they might be eating. But Japan is quite possibly the most well-mannered country on Earth, and if you listen carefully, you just might hear the black kites saying “Thank you” as they fly away with your food.

鐮倉恰好毗鄰相模灣，盡情享用壽司吧。

2. Don't forget to look up at the ornate roofs over your head; these particular ones are at Hasedera.

別忘了抬頭看看裝飾精美的屋頂；這些獨特的屋頂位于長谷寺內(nèi)。

巍巍大佛，莊嚴(yán)神社

鐮倉全盛時期的建筑消失已久，只剩下無數(shù)佛寺和神社。游客可花數(shù)天時間細細參觀各間寺廟、神社。若選一日游，則至少去看看鐮倉大佛和鶴岡八幡宮。

鐮倉大佛本為木質(zhì)結(jié)構(gòu)，遭臺風(fēng)摧毀后，重鑄為銅像。1498年，海嘯沖毀遮蓋大佛的大殿，而大佛無恙，從此，大佛就一直露天供奉。在湛藍天空的襯托下，佛像顯得格外雄偉壯觀。

鶴岡八幡宮是當(dāng)?shù)刈钬撌⒚纳裆?。神道教對日本文化影響很深，日本人幾乎事事都要去神社，小到祈求通過考試，大到慶生、辦婚禮。鐮倉人會在這里寫下許愿牌、抽取簽詩、虔誠地履行祈禱儀式。

鐮倉車站的東邊有兩條路直通鶴岡八幡宮。寬的叫若宮大路，兩旁是單行道。中間是參拜道路“段葛”，道邊種滿了櫻花樹，花開時景觀極美。窄的是小町街，商店、餐館林立，頗受游客青睞。

弓與箭，武士風(fēng)

櫻花盛放的時節(jié)是3月末至4月初。段葛是賞櫻花的首選之地，無論白天夜晚，粉白色的花團都分外明麗。

櫻花凋謝時，鐮倉要舉辦“鐮倉祭”系列活動。最為刺激的是流鏑馬：弓箭手身著狩獵裝，騎馬穿過三個標(biāo)靶，連續(xù)放箭射靶。流鏑馬的難度很大，多數(shù)弓箭手只能射中一個靶。

“靜之舞”表演也不容錯過。在鶴岡八幡宮的亭臺上，著裝精致的舞者隨著長笛與三味線的伴奏旋轉(zhuǎn)起舞，講述舞蹈名家靜御前為了愛情反抗強權(quán)的故事。

獨特美食，唇齒留香

小町街食肆眾多。除了最出名的銀魚蓋飯，價高味美的壽司、天婦羅值得一試，價格可愛的蕎麥面、炸豬排也須嘗嘗。小攤上的泡菜、豆沙包、煎餅紛紛惹人饞，大多都可試吃。有些美食是只此一家，像糖漿草莓薄餅，在別處可嘗不到。

享用美食時要當(dāng)心頭上盤旋的黑鳶，它們素來愛搶游客的食物?？扇毡臼嵌Y儀之邦，仔細聽，黑鳶搶走食物后說不定道謝了。

Dressed in Kamakura Period clothes, archers reclaim their arrows as they ride back to the start of the yabusame course.身著鐮倉時期服裝的弓箭手們邊回收箭支，邊騎馬返回流鏑馬起跑處。