餐飲業(yè)與餐飲業(yè)中的青年人（四）

The sun has moved to the west side of the sky and turned yellow， but the ten people sitting in the courtyard of Dongzhimen were not aware of it. Men and women， boys and girls， and the old and the young， in total ten of them， are sitting around the table. We can see one of them is quite in the mood of talking， with his eyes shining and his lips moving. Other nine people are sitting inclining to the table and listening to him very carefully. The meeting was hosted by IESCO to discuss the development of the catering industry and youths’ position in it. Two hours have past and the ten people are talking about their predictions about the catering industry in the future 10 years one by one.

日頭已往西斜成了暖黃色，但東直門內(nèi)某四合院中的某十人卻渾然不覺(jué)，這十人有男有女，有長(zhǎng)有少，此刻正圍桌而坐。其間一人嘴唇翻動(dòng)，眼眸發(fā)亮，可見(jiàn)談興正酣，而其他九人也皆是身體微傾，目視講話者做聆聽(tīng)狀。IESCO今日攢局，聊的是餐飲業(yè)的發(fā)展和青年人在其中的位置，此刻討論會(huì)已開(kāi)始將近兩小時(shí)，大家正依次發(fā)表自己對(duì)中國(guó)餐飲業(yè)未來(lái)十年的預(yù)測(cè)。

Through the discussion about the development of catering industry in China by some successful people with relatively high status in the field， including He Liang， Li Xiaolong， Chen Lemin， and Jia Wenshan， it’s not hard to find that the catering industry of China will be full of potential and challenges in the future. First of all， the development trend of Chinese catering industry is based on the green， healthy， and environmental-friendly sources of food， in diversified forms， against the backdrops of common development， and it encourages the emphasis of special features to pursue unique realization of brand value. More importantly， it stresses the value of tradition in Chinese catering industry by combining tradition and the market of fast food， and improves both the scale and quality of Chinese catering service. In this regard， Mr. He Liang intends to improve this concept by positioning healthy as the primary trend and tolerating the existence of high-end catering service at the same time. He insists that the conception of diversified forms of catering services should be carried out， the catering service in the future should be more delicate and sophisticated， and a internationally well-known Chinese label of catering service should be built.

In recent years， as people’s living standards has been improved continuously， they are no longer satisfied by merely enough amount of food， but has higher standards and demands. Thus， creative restaurants with designed features to demonstrate the themed culture appeared. Yan Beilei has her own understandings toward creative restaurants： to connect emotions with food， and seek the starting point to realize the purpose of satisfying people’s inner demands. However， the creative catering industry still belongs to a new field and its development is still not mature. Li Xiaolong believes it is because of the insufficient development of the overall economy of society. In China， the development of creative restaurants needs to consider comprehensively the target market， the positioning， and the market demands. Otherwise， even with fresh and outstanding ideas， without a suitable market environment， it still cannot survive. In addition， the presentation form and the working staff should be coordinated properly， which is also an inseparable sector of operating a creative restaurant.

Creative restaurants are the new products of innovative operation of catering services， and the appearance and development of creative cuisines are also presentations of innovation. The molecular gastronomy， for instance， uses techniques to completely alter the structure of food and improves the interests and pleasure of consuming. Creative cuisines do not mean putting all of the seasonings in one cuisine， but to conduct reforms in the cutting techniques， flavors， and sauces. Putting too much emphasis on one food without thorough consideration， or even stressing the one favor to the utmost or a freaky degree can only destroy the taste buds of people. Innovation needs to have grounds. It should conform to the local and environmental characteristics， and it should be controllable and suitable. Disobeying the healthy standards is not acceptable. It shows the importance of the consciousness of an enterprise. They shall seize the customers by the soul instead of the taste. A creative cuisine is a process， which is evolved from the attention paid to food safety. The Red Holothurian Palace has always led the industry with forwarding techniques in keeping health.

通過(guò)何亮、李曉龍、陳樂(lè)民、賈文山等在餐飲界有一定地位的成功人士就中國(guó)餐飲產(chǎn)業(yè)發(fā)展進(jìn)行的討論，我們不難看出，未來(lái)的中國(guó)餐飲業(yè)是充滿著潛力與挑戰(zhàn)的。首先，中餐餐飲的發(fā)展趨勢(shì)是以綠色、健康、環(huán)保的食物源頭為基礎(chǔ)，形式上多元化的發(fā)展，在百花齊放的共同發(fā)展大背景下鼓勵(lì)彰顯特色以謀求獨(dú)特的品牌價(jià)值的實(shí)現(xiàn)。更重要的是，重視傳統(tǒng)在中國(guó)餐飲行業(yè)的價(jià)值，將傳統(tǒng)與快餐市場(chǎng)相結(jié)合，把中式快餐做大做精。對(duì)此，何亮老師進(jìn)一步完善這個(gè)理念，認(rèn)為將健康快餐作為主流發(fā)展是必要趨勢(shì)，同時(shí)應(yīng)該允許高端餐飲的存在，貫徹餐飲形式多元化的觀點(diǎn)，要求未來(lái)餐飲做到精巧化與精細(xì)化，打造出具有中國(guó)標(biāo)簽的國(guó)際化知名品牌。

近年，隨著生活水平的不斷提高，人們不再滿足單純的吃飽，而是有了更高標(biāo)準(zhǔn)的市場(chǎng)需求，于是出現(xiàn)了以設(shè)計(jì)彰顯主題文化的創(chuàng)意餐廳。顏蓓蕾對(duì)于創(chuàng)意餐廳有著自己的獨(dú)到見(jiàn)解：將情感與食物相連接，從而尋找切入點(diǎn)以達(dá)到滿足人的某些內(nèi)在需求的目的。不過(guò)目前創(chuàng)意餐廳在餐飲行業(yè)仍然屬于新興領(lǐng)域，發(fā)展尚不成熟。李曉龍認(rèn)為這是社會(huì)整體經(jīng)濟(jì)發(fā)展不足造成的，在中國(guó)創(chuàng)意餐廳的發(fā)展需要對(duì)受眾群體、所在位置以及市場(chǎng)需求等全方面考慮，否則即使創(chuàng)意新穎，但在沒(méi)有合適的市場(chǎng)的情況下，仍然是無(wú)法存活的。另外要把握好創(chuàng)意餐廳的表現(xiàn)形式和人員的整體協(xié)調(diào)，這也是創(chuàng)意餐廳不可或缺的環(huán)節(jié)。

創(chuàng)意餐廳是餐飲行業(yè)經(jīng)營(yíng)模式創(chuàng)新的產(chǎn)物，而創(chuàng)意菜的出現(xiàn)和發(fā)展也是菜品創(chuàng)新的具體表現(xiàn)。例如分子餐，它利用技術(shù)徹底改變食物結(jié)構(gòu)，提高了人們?cè)陲嬍成系那槿?。?chuàng)意餐不是把所有調(diào)料都放進(jìn)一道菜，而是在刀功、汁芡等各個(gè)方面進(jìn)行大改革。不經(jīng)考慮一味尊崇某一味道，甚至把味道做到極致、變態(tài)，結(jié)果只會(huì)破壞人的味蕾，丟失味覺(jué)。創(chuàng)新是有根基的，要遵從地域、環(huán)境等特色，要有節(jié)制，要適度，不能違背健康標(biāo)準(zhǔn)。這就體現(xiàn)出企業(yè)良心的重要性，要抓住食客并不是通過(guò)味道，而是靈魂。創(chuàng)意菜是一個(gè)整體過(guò)程，是在注重食品安全的基礎(chǔ)上演變而來(lái)的。紅參府的養(yǎng)生海參創(chuàng)意就一直走在行業(yè)前沿。

At present， the catering industry in China is still facing the problem that Chinese fast food is hard to develop in large scale. The standardization of Chinese food’s favors is very hard to control， and there is always difference and distance among the flavors and materials of the chain restaurants. The solution adopted by Thai Mei Thai Restaurant is to distribute a fixed amount of materials to branches and let the chefs handle them. The distinction of the amount and flavor can be constrained to a certain degree in this way. In addition， it has overseas suppliers to supply materials， which forms a complete industry chain with factories， trade， and restaurants. The supply of materials is used as an advantage and the upstream and downstream catering system can be integrated. This new model of operation also has huge advantage in competition in the future.

The competition of the catering industry is very stressful and every enterprise is trying to boom their own business. However， they are confronted with too many troubles. Challenges appear in purchasing， marketing， and accounting as well. In particular， the “triangle debt” always brings vicious circles. Many restaurants choose to transform on the basis of sticking to the features， keeping stable customers， and making the use of advantages. They believe it is at least a way of making profits. The anti-corruption also exerts considerable influence on the market. Many catering enterprises were hit hard in the supply-demand relationship. The most important thing for the supplier is not adjusting the purchasing， but to guarantee the quality and safety of their products.

目前中國(guó)餐飲業(yè)還面臨著中式快餐難以規(guī)模化發(fā)展的問(wèn)題。中餐味道的標(biāo)準(zhǔn)化操作性不強(qiáng)，連鎖餐廳的味道以及食材的控制存在差異。泰美泰廚餐廳的解決對(duì)策是對(duì)每一道菜定量，再分配到各個(gè)連鎖店中，由各位廚師烹飪，菜品的量與味道都將差異控制在了一定范圍內(nèi)。另外它在境外設(shè)有原材料供應(yīng)工廠，將工廠、貿(mào)易、飯店形成一個(gè)完整產(chǎn)業(yè)鏈，利用原材料供應(yīng)優(yōu)勢(shì)，成功整合上下游餐飲系統(tǒng)，這種新的經(jīng)營(yíng)模式在未來(lái)同樣具有很大的競(jìng)爭(zhēng)優(yōu)勢(shì)。

如今，餐飲行業(yè)競(jìng)爭(zhēng)壓力大。商家試圖把自己的企業(yè)做大做強(qiáng)，可在這其中面臨的問(wèn)題太多，進(jìn)貨、賣貨、做賬等方面上都存在難度。尤其在要賬環(huán)節(jié)上通常會(huì)存在三角賬的惡性循環(huán)。有很多餐廳在干好自己的本行留下好的客人、利用自己的優(yōu)勢(shì)情況下，選擇轉(zhuǎn)型。他們認(rèn)為至少這是一種盈利方式。而反腐行動(dòng)對(duì)市場(chǎng)需求也產(chǎn)生很大影響，導(dǎo)致企業(yè)在供求關(guān)系中受到極大打擊。供應(yīng)商要做到的重點(diǎn)不是調(diào)整進(jìn)貨，而是保證產(chǎn)品的質(zhì)量和安全。

The chef is a powerful factor for the competition in the catering industry and they are the most essential producer to cook healthy and tasty food. Famous chefs can even create higher returns for restaurants. Therefore， professional culinary institutes have derived star chefs training program in abroad to cultivate chefs like that， such as Le Cordon Bleu Culinary Arts Institute. Back in China， there are still numerous obstacles and the current situation of professional culinary institutes is not mature for the catering industry. To do a better professional education is primarily needed and it is not practical to cultivate star chefs in the first place， ant it is also not consistent with the actual situation of today’s professional environment. The management system of Le Cordon Bleu Culinary Arts Institute begins early， which is both accurate and complete. Through divided levels， the cultivation of the chefs there is permeated from the upper level to the lower， and currently， it has come near to the civilian population. Oppositely， our institutes deliver chefs from the lower lever to the upper， which indicates that the educational system needs to be completed.

So， if the catering industry in China is not suitable for opening up training institutes for the star chefs， will companies be willing to train them？ We have got the negative answer of it base on the fact that it costs too much. The function of the star chefs is to promote the business of restaurants and to strengthen advertising and cultivating star chefs by companies may confuse the cause and effect. To a certain extent， the phenomenon of star chefs shows the market demand， but to be a star chef needs strong professional accomplishment and high cooking level， and only those who are excellent in both performing skills and moral integrity can be deeply impressed by people.

廚師是餐飲行業(yè)競(jìng)爭(zhēng)的有力武器，烹制出健康可口的食物最不可缺少的也是廚師，名廚更是可以為餐廳企業(yè)創(chuàng)造更高的收益。國(guó)外為此衍生出明星學(xué)校，專門培訓(xùn)明星廚師，例如藍(lán)帶廚藝學(xué)校。但在中國(guó)的發(fā)展還存在一些問(wèn)題，明星廚師學(xué)校的存在對(duì)于餐飲行業(yè)現(xiàn)狀而言并不成熟。當(dāng)前需要的是把職業(yè)教育做好，刻意打造精英不符合現(xiàn)今職業(yè)環(huán)境的實(shí)際情況。國(guó)外藍(lán)帶的管理體系精細(xì)完整，且起步較早。對(duì)人才的培養(yǎng)是層層階梯式的，從高端往下發(fā)展，目前已接近平民化。而我們是從下往上輸送餐飲人才，教育機(jī)制體制仍有待完備。

那么，如果中國(guó)的餐飲現(xiàn)狀不適合開(kāi)辦明星學(xué)校，企業(yè)是否愿意培養(yǎng)明星廚師呢？我們得到的答案是不贊成。由企業(yè)打造明星廚師耗費(fèi)的精力過(guò)多。明星廚師的存在是為了推動(dòng)餐廳的發(fā)展、增加宣傳力度，如果由企業(yè)推動(dòng)明星廚師的養(yǎng)成，可能造成本末倒置的結(jié)果。當(dāng)然在某種程度而言，明星廚師的出現(xiàn)也是市場(chǎng)需求的體現(xiàn)，但成為明星廚師需要具備較強(qiáng)的職業(yè)素養(yǎng)和廚藝水平，做到德藝雙馨才能為人折服。

Along with the development of the times， the reform of the catering industry has also been put on the agenda， thus how to meet the market demand needs consideration among every business merchant. Some problems still exist， like many employees do not have clear position about their work， they don’t know what they are doing and cannot be concentrated. Take bartenders as example， they have certain working environmental limitation since bartending is a western culture， it still have many problems in the process of the cultural integration. Besides， the bartenders hired are not professional enough to give specialized suggestions to make business progress. All these factors will hinder the development of the whole industry. With the development of people’s living standard， they will definitely be pickier on quality and environment， the enjoyment of taste will gradually requires more visual appreciation in it. As a result， some high-class restaurants have raised their recruitment level of the staff in appearance and educational level， and they have arranged professional training program for them to improve both internal and external quality of the restaurant. During which， process execution is of high importance and every step of the training strictly complies with it. If not following the process execution， haste will make waste.

In current development of the catering industry， the challenges and opportunities are coexistent， so how to increase competitive weight is for every participant to take into consideration. The market environment is not for a single one to control， and the merchant's conscience， dedication and innovation of the dishes are key factors to the success. The reason for Red Ginseng Palace to become a leader in the catering industry is that it pays attention to the details of each step， to provide the most satisfactory service for the customers. It is difficult to meet the need of every customer， and heading on with courage and guts is a must for those who are pursuing for the success.

而伴隨時(shí)代發(fā)展，餐飲業(yè)改革也提上日程，怎樣迎合市場(chǎng)需求也成了每個(gè)商家思考的事情。這其中也存在很大的問(wèn)題：有很多人無(wú)法正視自己的工作，不知道自己在干什么，無(wú)法專注用心。就調(diào)酒師而言，首先有環(huán)境上的局限性，調(diào)酒作為西方文化，與中國(guó)文化的融合還存在一定問(wèn)題。其次，聘請(qǐng)的調(diào)酒師不夠?qū)I(yè)，給不了專業(yè)的建設(shè)性意見(jiàn)。這些都會(huì)影響到整個(gè)行業(yè)在中國(guó)的整體發(fā)展。隨著人們對(duì)于生活水平要求的提高，對(duì)于質(zhì)量與環(huán)境的挑剔也會(huì)有增無(wú)減。人們漸漸要求味覺(jué)上的享受要融合于視覺(jué)上的欣賞。于是一些高級(jí)餐廳招聘時(shí)對(duì)于外貌、學(xué)歷都提高要求，并對(duì)員工進(jìn)行專業(yè)培訓(xùn)，力求通過(guò)內(nèi)部的苛刻提高外部的質(zhì)量。而在這其中，流程性是十分重要的。每一步培訓(xùn)都遵從流程，過(guò)于心急亂了順序而欲速則不達(dá)。

在當(dāng)下餐飲業(yè)的發(fā)展中，挑戰(zhàn)和機(jī)遇是并存的，怎樣加重自己的競(jìng)爭(zhēng)砝碼是每個(gè)人都在考慮的問(wèn)題。市場(chǎng)這個(gè)大環(huán)境是沒(méi)人能夠控制的，商家的良心、專心以及菜品的創(chuàng)新則成了取勝關(guān)鍵所在。紅參府之所以能成為餐飲界中的佼佼者，原因在于它注重每一步細(xì)節(jié)，確實(shí)為消費(fèi)者提供最完善的服務(wù)享受。迎合每一位顧客的喜好與要求是有難度的，迎難而上是一個(gè)成功者必須的勇氣和膽量。