凡間天堂

趙凡

Mount Pleasant Cemetery， Toronto

If you're not used to seeing cemeteries filled with baby strollers and joggers， brace yourself before visiting Mount Pleasant. It's best to regard it as a public park that happens to have a lot of permanent residents. I'd love to say that locals' enthusiasm for the place is part of my hometown's Victorian tradition—back in 1876， when this cemetery opened， having family picnics at gravesites was considered normal behavior. But it's also true that when you see Mount Pleasant's rolling green hills， botanical gardens， leafy trees， and elegant fountains， you know that it's the cemetery's incredible beauty that draws people in. There are grand mausoleums1） here， belonging to families like the Eatons2） and the Masseys3）， and famous graves， such as pianist Glenn Gould's resting place， but the real reason to visit is to enjoy glorious green space in the middle of a frenetic4） city. Open daily from dawn to dusk.

多倫多的歡喜山墓園

如果你還不習(xí)慣看到墓園里滿是嬰兒推車和慢跑的人群，那么在游覽歡喜山之前你一定要做好思想準(zhǔn)備。最好是把這里當(dāng)成一個(gè)碰巧有許多永久定居于此的居民的公園。我想說(shuō)的是，本地居民對(duì)這個(gè)地方的熱情是我的家鄉(xiāng)自維多利亞時(shí)代以來(lái)的一部分傳統(tǒng)——回到墓園開放的1876年，人們認(rèn)為在墓地舉行家庭野餐是很正常的事情。但這也是真的：當(dāng)你看到墓園里連綿起伏的青山、植物園、枝繁葉茂的樹木和那些美麗的噴泉，你就會(huì)明白是歡喜山墓園那難以置信的美吸引著人們前來(lái)游玩。這里有屬于像伊頓和馬西這樣的家族的宏偉陵墓群，也有一些名人的墓地，比如鋼琴家格倫·古爾德就安息于此。但是想享受這片處于鬧市中的壯麗的綠色空間才是人們來(lái)此游玩的真正原因。該墓園每日凌晨至傍晚開放。

Green-Wood Cemetery，

New York City

Close your eyes and imagine 478 acres of rolling hills， complete with several ponds， a lake， a glorious view of the Statue of Liberty and thousands of historic monuments. Throw in a chapel that's modeled on Thomas Tower at Oxford's Christ Church College， and you've got Brooklyn's spectacular Green-Wood. This 1838 cemetery boasts National Historic Landmark status， in part because it's where the Battle of Long Island5） was fought in 1776. But it's just as significant to bird-watchers， and it's a member of the Audubon Cooperative Sanctuary System. Green-Wood offers a variety of ticketed tours that take you around its expansive grounds by trolley6） or into its catacombs7） by flashlight. Open daily to visitors.

紐約市的綠蔭公墓

閉上眼睛，想象一下478公頃的連綿群山，連同幾方池塘，一潭湖泊，還有自由女神像和上千座歷史紀(jì)念碑的壯麗景色，再往這里面放上一座教堂，就是仿照位于倫敦基督教會(huì)大學(xué)的托馬斯塔建造的那種，你就能看到布魯克林宏偉壯觀的綠蔭公墓。這座1838年建造的墓園一直標(biāo)榜其有著國(guó)家歷史地標(biāo)的地位，部分是因?yàn)檫@里是1776年長(zhǎng)島戰(zhàn)役的發(fā)生地。不過(guò)這里對(duì)于野鳥觀察者來(lái)說(shuō)同樣意義重大，該墓園是奧杜邦合作保護(hù)區(qū)體系（編注：全球最大的環(huán)保團(tuán)體之一奧杜邦學(xué)會(huì)的一個(gè)環(huán)保項(xiàng)目）的成員。綠蔭公墓提供各種需要購(gòu)票的觀光線路，你可以乘坐有軌電車游覽這里廣闊的景區(qū)，或者打著手電筒探索地下墓穴。該墓園每日向游客開放。

Granary Burying Ground， Boston

A sign at the entrance to the Granary Burying Ground claims that "Famous， infamous and unknown Bostonians are buried here". This small cemetery on Tremont Street， founded in 1660， holds many Revolutionary War heroes， including John Hancock8） and Samuel Adams9）. One of the grandest monuments belongs to Benjamin Franklin's family （though Ben himself rests in Philadelphia）. One of the more infamous residents is Samuel Sewall， a magistrate10） who presided over11） the Salem witch trials12）.endprint

Almost every headstone is eye-catching in its own right13）， with elaborate carvings of skeletons sporting scythes14）， winged skulls， sly-looking cherubs15）， and other symbols of mourning， as well as poetic epitaphs16）. The towering Egyptian Revival gate that marks the entryway is a work of art in its own right. Open daily， the Granary Burying Ground has excellent signage17） to point out the most famous—and infamous—graves.

波士頓的谷倉(cāng)墓地

谷倉(cāng)墓地入口處的一個(gè)牌子上寫著：“聲名顯赫的、臭名昭著的、默默無(wú)名的波士頓人都埋葬在這里”。這座位于特萊蒙街上的小型墓園于1660年建成，許多美國(guó)獨(dú)立戰(zhàn)爭(zhēng)時(shí)期的英雄在這里安眠，包括約翰·漢考克和塞繆爾·亞當(dāng)斯。其中最宏偉的墓碑中就有一座屬于本杰明·富蘭克林家族（盡管本杰明本人安息在費(fèi)城）。這里比較臭名昭著的“居民”之一是塞繆爾·西沃，一個(gè)負(fù)責(zé)一系列塞勒姆女巫審判案的法官。

幾乎每一塊墓碑本身就十分引人注目，上面精心雕刻著配有鐮刀的骷髏、帶翅膀的頭、相貌狡黠的小天使和其他象征哀悼的符號(hào)，也刻著富有詩(shī)意的墓志銘。高聳的埃及復(fù)興時(shí)期風(fēng)格的大門本身就是一件藝術(shù)品，標(biāo)志著墓園的入口。每日開放的谷倉(cāng)墓地有精準(zhǔn)的指示牌，為游客指明最聲名顯赫以及最臭名昭著者的墓地所在。

Highgate Cemetery， London

Situated on 37 acres in North London， Highgate is as almost much a nature reserve as it is a historic resting place. Wild as a classic English garden， it features trees， shrubs， and flowers growing without human intervention， and they provide cover to Highgate's many living inhabitants， which include foxes. In the midst of all this greenery are magnificent stone monuments， some dating back to 1839 and so covered in ivy that the grounds can resemble the land that time forgot. But with famous people such as George Eliot and Karl Marx interred18） here， it isn't likely that anyone will ever pass it by. Highgate is divided into East and West cemeteries， with the latter only available for viewing by tour （buy tickets in advance through the website）. East Highgate charges an admission fee， but you can explore it on your own.

倫敦的海格特公墓

海格特公墓位于倫敦北部，占地37公頃，是歷史上重要的安息之所，幾乎也是一個(gè)自然保護(hù)區(qū)。這里如經(jīng)典的英式花園一樣處于野生狀態(tài)，特點(diǎn)是樹木、灌木和花草的生長(zhǎng)都沒(méi)有人類的干涉，這些草木為海格特公墓內(nèi)包括狐貍在內(nèi)的許多有生命的棲息者提供安身之處。在這里所有的青蔥草木之中則有許多莊嚴(yán)的石碑，有些可以追溯到1839年，它們上面覆滿了常春藤，讓一塊塊墓地就像這一片被時(shí)間遺忘的土地一樣。不過(guò)由于這里埋葬著像喬治·艾略特和卡爾·馬克思這樣的名人，似乎誰(shuí)都不會(huì)錯(cuò)過(guò)這里了。海格特分為東西兩個(gè)墓區(qū)，后者只能通過(guò)跟團(tuán)參觀（提前在網(wǎng)上購(gòu)票）。東區(qū)收取門票費(fèi)，但你可以自行探索。

La Recoleta， Buenos Aires

In Argentina's capital city， Recoleta is considered a chief attraction. Walled off from the tony19） neighborhood it inhabits， it's effectively a city-within-the-city， founded in 1822 and filled with elaborately carved tombs and fine Italian statuary. The most popular spot is the Duarte family tomb， which is where the country's most famous first lady， Eva Perón20）， is buried （The Duartes are her father's family）. Even if the names of famous Argentine families aren't familiar to foreign visitors， their extravagant memorials leave a lasting impression. Free tours are available in a variety of languages， and visitors are welcome to explore on their own.endprint

Cementerio General， Santiago

Chile and Argentina have always been great rivals， so perhaps it shouldn't be a surprise that Santiago has a cemetery that aims to be even more spectacular than Buenos Aires'. Spread over 210 acres， and divided into elegant streets and boulevards， the Cementerio General has massive tombs designed to resemble Mayan temples， Venetian palazzos21） and other grand structures —they're so huge， you might start to wonder whether any living family members could be inside， too. But the most fascinating part of the site is the Monument to the Disappeared， a large-scale memorial to those who vanished under Augusto Pinochet's brutal regime. Undoubtedly not by coincidence， the Pinochet family tomb is a stone's-throw away. （Augusto Pinochet died in 2006， but his family， fearing vandalism22）， didn't place his cremated remains at the family tomb.） Open daily to visitors.

布宜諾斯艾利斯的瑞科萊塔公墓

在阿根廷首都，瑞科萊塔公墓被人們視為一大游覽勝地。瑞科萊塔公墓位于繁華地帶，由一堵高墻將其和周邊的繁華隔開，實(shí)際上是一座“城中城”。瑞科萊塔公墓建于1822年，里面滿是精雕細(xì)刻的陵墓和精美的意式雕塑。最受歡迎的景點(diǎn)是杜阿爾特家族的陵墓，那里埋葬著這個(gè)國(guó)家最著名的第一夫人——伊娃·貝?。ǘ虐柼丶易迨撬哪锛遥１M管外國(guó)游客并不熟悉阿根廷這些名門望族的名字，但是他們那奢華精致的紀(jì)念碑會(huì)讓游客們印象深刻、長(zhǎng)久難忘。這里有各種語(yǔ)言的免費(fèi)導(dǎo)覽，也歡迎游客自行探索。

圣地亞哥的圣何塞公墓

智利和阿根廷向來(lái)都是強(qiáng)勁的競(jìng)爭(zhēng)對(duì)手，所以不足為奇，圣地亞哥也有一個(gè)公墓，而且明擺著就是想要比布宜諾斯艾利斯的那個(gè)公墓更壯觀。圣何塞公墓綿延210公頃，劃分出美麗的街道和林蔭道，有很多仿照瑪雅神廟、威尼斯宮殿和其他宏偉建筑設(shè)計(jì)的巨大陵墓。它們是如此龐大，你可能都開始懷疑那些在世的家族成員是否也有可能在里面。但是這個(gè)地方最吸引人的部分是“遇害者紀(jì)念碑”，這是為紀(jì)念那些在奧古斯托·皮諾切特（編注：前智利軍事獨(dú)裁首腦）殘暴統(tǒng)治下死去的人們而建造的一個(gè)大型紀(jì)念碑。而皮諾切特家族的墓地距此僅一箭之遙也絕對(duì)不是巧合。（奧古斯托·皮諾切特死于2006年，但是他的家人因?yàn)楹ε鹿姇?huì)故意破壞，沒(méi)有將他的骨灰安置在家族的陵墓里。）該公墓每日向游人開放。endprint