臨海遍野飄橘香

李建兵

第一次知道臨海蜜橘的名頭，是2009年參加臨海江南長(zhǎng)城節(jié)途中，看到高速公路邊的巨幅廣告牌—“臨海一奇，吃橘帶皮”。

作為明長(zhǎng)城的師范和藍(lán)本，臨海的江南長(zhǎng)城海內(nèi)聞名，可是，天下哪有帶皮吃的橘子？

問(wèn)了臺(tái)州市經(jīng)濟(jì)作物總站的老師之后知道，帶皮吃的是臨海蜜橘——皮又薄又脆，跟果肉粘連得很結(jié)實(shí)，剝起來(lái)費(fèi)勁，還不如一口咬下去爽快，既鮮且甜。這橘皮不苦不澀的主要原因是，表面油孢含量比較少。油孢指的是橘皮上的小顆粒，里面有豐富的橘油，苦澀就在它身上。

那么，究竟是怎樣一片土地孕育了如此甜美的果實(shí)？

其實(shí)，與臨海緊鄰的黃巖，早在古代，就是著名的橘子之鄉(xiāng)。黃巖“本地早”的名頭，大部分中國(guó)人都如雷貫耳。

但是近幾年來(lái)，臨海蜜橘卻出人意料地崛起，成為超過(guò)普通橘子價(jià)格數(shù)倍十?dāng)?shù)倍的極品。

橘子成熟的秋天，臨海漫山遍野起伏著綠色，紅紅果實(shí)掛滿枝頭，到處是一派豐收景象。清清的靈江水倒映藍(lán)藍(lán)的天，讓人心曠神怡！

臨海產(chǎn)橘最出名的古老小鎮(zhèn)是涌泉鎮(zhèn)?！爸袊?guó)無(wú)核橘之鄉(xiāng)”的巨大招牌，似乎把當(dāng)?shù)厝俗院赖男膽B(tài)詮釋得淋漓盡致。小鎮(zhèn)路旁擺滿了各種品牌的涌泉橘子，令人目不暇接。村民們與各路商賈討價(jià)還價(jià)，叫賣聲、笑談聲打破了小鎮(zhèn)的寧?kù)o。

在涌泉，讓我們感慨頗深，橘子品質(zhì)高了、地方富裕了，從上到下，似乎都沾染著一股“牛氣”，村民有一股發(fā)自內(nèi)心的自信。

“這最好的涌泉橘多少一斤？”

“最好的是‘巖魚頭，50元一斤。”

巖魚頭坐落在海水與淡水交會(huì)的靈江邊。整個(gè)柑橘基地在一個(gè)小山坡上，這里三面環(huán)山，陽(yáng)光照射極好，土質(zhì)淡黃，很少受臺(tái)風(fēng)的侵襲，氣候宜人。

特殊的氣候、特殊的土壤、特殊的環(huán)境、特殊的種植培育出中國(guó)堪稱一絕的無(wú)核極品橘子。一般的橘子含糖量是8至9度，而巖魚頭的橘子含糖量為13度；甚至連皮都帶著甜味；而且?guī)r魚頭的橘子口感很好，嚼起來(lái)沒(méi)有渣。

在橘園基地，我們遇見(jiàn)了基地主人翁老板。翁老板是個(gè)爽快熱情之人，他向我們一株株介紹橘樹，讓我們一株株品嘗果實(shí)。他自豪地說(shuō)，這方圓300多畝山地上的3000多株橘樹，全是他自己的！現(xiàn)在橘子是供不應(yīng)求，都來(lái)不及采摘，一天就能賣十幾萬(wàn)元。

每當(dāng)蜜橘采摘期，除了橘農(nóng)忙碌外，也多了一幫“外人”樂(lè)呵呵地采摘橘子。來(lái)自各地的客人紛紛來(lái)到橘園品嘗、采摘蜜橘，在農(nóng)園里吃農(nóng)家菜，順帶著前往蘭田十八潭、南苑農(nóng)莊等地，愜意地休閑。而這樣的涌泉，也真正成為了一座集“采、品、購(gòu)、游、娛”為一體的生態(tài)風(fēng)情小鎮(zhèn)。

涌泉鎮(zhèn)政府工作人員告訴我，涌泉蜜橘有現(xiàn)在的身價(jià)，與一直以來(lái)涌泉打“科技、商標(biāo)”牌分不開。“我們與國(guó)內(nèi)科研院所建立了長(zhǎng)期的技術(shù)合作關(guān)系，引進(jìn)先進(jìn)的栽培技術(shù)，并邀請(qǐng)日本、韓國(guó)等地專家前來(lái)指導(dǎo)?！?/p>

除了科技之外，商標(biāo)，也就是品牌，是臨海蜜橘成功的最大因素。

1999年，臨海人第一次使用“臨海蜜橘”這四個(gè)字；僅僅過(guò)了兩年多，“臨海蜜橘”證明商標(biāo)便注冊(cè)成功。又過(guò)了兩年，“臨海蜜橘”原產(chǎn)地標(biāo)志也申報(bào)成功。

有了商標(biāo)后，臨海對(duì)境內(nèi)的柑橘品牌進(jìn)行整合，采用“子母商標(biāo)”的設(shè)計(jì)，統(tǒng)一打某某牌“臨海蜜橘”。既突出“臨海蜜橘”母商標(biāo)的中心地位，又不失各個(gè)子品牌的個(gè)性，調(diào)動(dòng)個(gè)體的積極性。

最值得一提的是，近年來(lái)，每年的秋季，臨?？偸前呀祥L(zhǎng)城節(jié)和無(wú)核蜜橘節(jié)這兩大節(jié)慶活動(dòng)，合在一起隆重舉辦。登上臨海的江南長(zhǎng)城，望著遠(yuǎn)方滿目的綠色，心中感慨萬(wàn)千。因?yàn)橥茝V蜜橘栽種、重視治污、積極打造環(huán)保，現(xiàn)在的臨海已經(jīng)越來(lái)越成為公認(rèn)的綠色城市，連續(xù)五年被臺(tái)州市評(píng)為生態(tài)市建設(shè)優(yōu)秀單位，并先后獲得了國(guó)家園林城市、國(guó)家衛(wèi)生城市、省級(jí)生態(tài)市、省級(jí)環(huán)保模范城市等榮譽(yù)稱號(hào)。我想，臨海蜜橘不僅締造了農(nóng)產(chǎn)品的傳奇、亮出了地方特色名片，還給當(dāng)?shù)厝舜蜷_了一扇環(huán)保綠色的品牌大門。

（除署名外，本文照片由莊穎昶拍攝）

Linhai City Offers

Honeysweet Tangerine

By Li Jianbing

The first time I became aware of the existence of the honeysweet tangerine of Linhai was 2009. I was on a long-haul bus traveling toward Linhai and I was going to take part in Linhai Great Wall Festival. I spotted a huge advertisement board by the roadside proudly flaunting the honeysweet tangerine： enjoy the wonder tangerine without removing the peel. It is said that the great wall in Linhai served as the prototype of the Great Wall reconstructed in the northern China during the Ming Dynasty （1368-1644） and it is a huge tourist attraction in this part of the country. But what is so great about the seedless and edible-peel tangerine of Linhai？

Huangyan， a close geographical neighbor of Linhai， used to be famed for tangerine production. Honeysweet tangerine of Linhai is something brand new. It sells at an exorbitant price. With the same amount of money for a kilogram of honeysweet tangerine， you could buy about ten or more kilograms of tangerine produced anywhere else.

Yongquan Town is the best-known tangerine producer in Linghai. Local residents proudly call Yongquan the nations tangerine powerhouse， totally ignoring Huangyan and other important tangerine producers. In Yongquan， the best tangerine sells 80 yuan per kilo and vendors rarely bother to bargain. There are a few registered trademarks for the local honeysweet tangerine.

The best tangerine farm in Yongquan is located at Yantouyu， a special farming base at provincial and national level. The name literarily suggests fish on rock and it sounds as if the farm location is out of place， but actually， the farm is sheltered by hills on three sides， forming a powerful windbreaker against typhoons that slam into the area frequently in summer. The large orchard is near where the sea and the river meet. The microclimate is most helpful to tangerine growing. Tangerine produced in Yantouyu has 13 percent of sugar content whereas the sugar content of ordinary tangerines averages at 8% to 9%. That is why local residents have registered Linhai Honeysweet Tangerine as a trademark.

The farm is owned and operated by a man surnamed Weng. It spreads on undulating slopes and measures about 20 hectares. The large orchard has about 3，000 tangerine trees. He sells 100，000-yuan-worth tangerine a day in the harvesting season. We toured the orchard and then went to a village restaurant for lunch. The harvesting season is one of the best times around the year for local village restaurants. People drive from everywhere and they visit orchards in the neighborhood， pick tangerines as a pastime for half a day and then buy what they have just picked， dine and wine at village restaurants， and go home. The tangerine harvesting time is also the peak season of local tourism.

Tangerine is the best success story the local people tell at present. They have inherited the success of the great wall made by ancients and they have made the tangerine all by themselves.

Science and business are the two factors that have helped. In 1999， Linhai succeeded in registering Linhai Honeysweet Tangerine as a trademark. In 2001， it successfully registered Linhai as place of origin for its honeysweet tangerine. Linhai then consolidated its tangerine brands， allowing small brands to use the unifying Linhai Honeysweet Tangerine. The local trade organization is commissioned to manage the trademark. It runs a strict quality assurance system to maintain the excellence of local tangerine. In 2004， 14 producers qualified to use the regional trademark. In 2012， there are altogether 25 qualified producers.

Linhai regularly advertises its honeysweet tangerine on CCTV， the countrys largest television network. In recent years， Linhai has been celebrating its great wall and its honeysweet tangerine together in every autumn. The two festivals are now the gold call cards of the city.

As the city promotes honeysweet tangerine as a pillar of local agriculture， it pays close attention to ecology and goes all out to keep its land green and free of pollution. Linhai City has won quite a few honors for its environment-friendly development drive.