御侮誰(shuí)不憶?桃渚

戚小宗

在浙江東南一隅的臨海去大海方向再向東約60公里，在經(jīng)濟(jì)發(fā)達(dá)地區(qū)的鋼筋水泥樓群城鎮(zhèn)和四通八達(dá)的柏油馬路中，奇跡般地孤懸著一座規(guī)模不大的明代古城。它，名叫桃渚。

公元1562年，抗倭名將戚繼光以桃渚為根據(jù)地，在臺(tái)州九戰(zhàn)九捷之后，奉命調(diào)任福建。后世的史學(xué)家都認(rèn)為，這一年，是明代抗倭歷史由守轉(zhuǎn)攻，最終獲得勝利的轉(zhuǎn)折點(diǎn)。

光陰變換，斗轉(zhuǎn)星移，到今天，恰好是450周年。而我，作為戚繼光將軍的第23代嫡孫，來(lái)到了這座東鄰滄海的古城，重走祖先的赫赫戰(zhàn)功之路，也從這座古城，重讀了戚繼光生命最后的三個(gè)十年。

1562，青年才俊的光耀之地

曾有人告訴我，桃渚城是整個(gè)南中國(guó)最適合遐想的地方。

“遐想”一詞，有著十分復(fù)雜的內(nèi)涵，既代表了豐沛的歷史內(nèi)蘊(yùn)，也代表了鉛華散盡的落寞。

和想象的有些不一樣，抗倭古城比影視作品里看到的那些城防要塞要小，到了桃渚鎮(zhèn)，車(chē)子一拐彎，城門(mén)和石墻展現(xiàn)眼前的時(shí)候，甚至有點(diǎn)失望。

冷靜下來(lái)，努力使自己以冷兵器時(shí)代的眼光來(lái)看，這的的確確是一座堅(jiān)不可摧的四方城堡。明正統(tǒng)八年(1443)為抗擊倭寇而建設(shè)的這個(gè)千戶(hù)所所城，周長(zhǎng)1366米。北面是山，東、西、南三座古城門(mén)城墻現(xiàn)在都基本保存完好。

走進(jìn)桃渚石頭城，感覺(jué)街道不是很規(guī)則，和當(dāng)?shù)厝艘涣?，原?lái)街道不筆直而建、是為呈現(xiàn)“龍”型。主街兩邊的巷道，都不對(duì)稱(chēng)呼應(yīng)直通，而是插齒交叉，為的是防敵長(zhǎng)驅(qū)直入，便于城內(nèi)軍民隱蔽、出擊。

漫步桃渚城內(nèi)，可以說(shuō)街巷至今仍保持著明清風(fēng)貌。在街上亂轉(zhuǎn)，一家屋檐的木雕就讓人嘆為觀(guān)止：不僅僅是花鳥(niǎo)魚(yú)蟲(chóng)，還有郭子儀祝壽、趙公明送財(cái)這些有頭有尾的歷史形象。

據(jù)說(shuō)，城中的居民有的就是戚家軍的后裔。這我沒(méi)有考證，不過(guò)，我愿意相信這是真的。一戶(hù)人家聽(tīng)說(shuō)我姓戚，很熱情地迎我進(jìn)去小坐，端茶泡水，親近溢于言表。他們說(shuō)，只要我亮出自己的姓氏，每一個(gè)桃渚人都會(huì)拿出最好的香茶和最美味的飯菜款待我。

古城四周的城墻，如今已經(jīng)變成孩子們的玩鬧場(chǎng)所。戚繼光曾經(jīng)的揮斥方遒，只有發(fā)揮想象去遐想。

嘉靖三十四年（1555），年方28歲的戚繼光，因?yàn)槊晒抛灏炒鸷孤什窟M(jìn)犯時(shí)展露的軍事才華被中央軍官賞識(shí)而派駐浙江。當(dāng)時(shí)，倭寇猖獗到令后人難以想象的地步：大舉入侵時(shí)，常常集結(jié)30至50艘可以裝載百人的大船，人數(shù)多達(dá)幾千；盛時(shí)，可以有2萬(wàn)人據(jù)守占領(lǐng)區(qū)內(nèi)的軍事要地；劫掠的物品不限于金銀珠寶，還把當(dāng)?shù)厝俗鳛榕`運(yùn)往日本，甚至大批搜集蠶繭并勒令婦女們抽絲。

在戚繼光到任之前，對(duì)于倭寇的蹂躪，百姓的悲觀(guān)和惶惑遍布于濱海各省。翻看當(dāng)年的歷史，有些事情簡(jiǎn)直令人不可思議。歷史學(xué)家黃仁宇先生的《萬(wàn)歷十五年》記載，一股50至70人的海寇竟創(chuàng)造了一個(gè)“奇跡”：他們登陸后到處殺人越貨，如入無(wú)人之境，竟越過(guò)杭州北新關(guān)，經(jīng)淳安入安徽朗縣，迫近蕪湖，圍繞南京兜了一個(gè)大圈子，然后趨秣陵關(guān)至宜興，退至武進(jìn)。以后雖然被殲，但是被他們殺傷的百姓據(jù)稱(chēng)竟有4000之多。

戚繼光到任之后，情況大為改觀(guān)。他以3000名士兵從桃渚開(kāi)始，屢次攻堅(jiān)、解圍、迎戰(zhàn)、追擊，而從未在戰(zhàn)斗中被倭寇擊潰。1562年離開(kāi)浙江前，戚家軍壯大為1萬(wàn)人。之后，繼任者的勝利紀(jì)錄無(wú)出其右。

而且，戚繼光還在臨海建造了煌煌壯觀(guān)的城墻，首創(chuàng)了空心敵臺(tái)的建筑形制。很多人認(rèn)為，戚繼光在臺(tái)州府的創(chuàng)意，最早就來(lái)自于他曾經(jīng)作為根據(jù)地的桃渚城。

1572，興修長(zhǎng)城的師范藍(lán)本

從浙江調(diào)任后，戚繼光又在福建、廣東轉(zhuǎn)戰(zhàn)數(shù)年。蕩平沿海倭寇之后，40歲那年，戚繼光奉命回京，加強(qiáng)北方防衛(wèi)，抵御當(dāng)時(shí)對(duì)明王朝威脅最大的北方韃靼。

隨后幾年，戚繼光做了一件在中國(guó)歷史上再次書(shū)寫(xiě)濃墨重彩之筆的事情—修建明長(zhǎng)城。今天北方的明長(zhǎng)城北京八達(dá)嶺、慕田峪、司馬臺(tái)、古北口，天津黃崖關(guān)，河北山海關(guān)附近的老龍頭、角山等很多地段，都是按照他的規(guī)劃設(shè)計(jì)加以改進(jìn)增筑過(guò)的。

1572年，薊門(mén)一帶長(zhǎng)城的全部工程完成。史料記載，全部經(jīng)費(fèi)僅是估計(jì)造價(jià)的一半。在1017座御敵臺(tái)上，戚繼光配置了固定的臺(tái)軍。他又著《哨守條約》，令各臺(tái)官兵傳習(xí)，時(shí)刻提防邊警。他還把各種敵情信號(hào)編成通俗順口的《傳烽歌》，讓守軍背誦記熟。也是在這年，戚繼光完成了軍事著作《練兵實(shí)紀(jì)》。

如今，東起山海關(guān)、西至山西黃河邊的長(zhǎng)城依然完整地保存著，像條巨龍起伏于崇山峻嶺之間，蜿蜒曲折，連綿不斷，烽堠敵臺(tái)，氣勢(shì)磅礴，蔚為壯觀(guān)。

我沒(méi)有去過(guò)八達(dá)嶺，但曾經(jīng)登臨過(guò)河北山海關(guān)長(zhǎng)城、也遠(yuǎn)眺過(guò)山西雁門(mén)關(guān)長(zhǎng)城。那高下相間、突兀參差的形貌，和臨海古城墻以及桃渚古城，確有不少相似之處。無(wú)怪乎今年剛剛過(guò)世的建筑學(xué)家羅哲文先生曾說(shuō)，臨海古城是明長(zhǎng)城的師范和藍(lán)本。

在臨海期間，精于歷史的臨海市委宣傳部部長(zhǎng)盧如平拿出他的專(zhuān)著《戚繼光與“南北長(zhǎng)城”》贈(zèng)給我，并娓娓談起了戚繼光的話(huà)題。他說(shuō)，在任薊鎮(zhèn)總兵時(shí)，戚繼光把臨海修筑城防的經(jīng)驗(yàn)，運(yùn)用到北方長(zhǎng)城的增擴(kuò)加強(qiáng)上。他特抽調(diào)了曾經(jīng)參加修建桃渚要塞、改建臨海城墻的“三千江東子弟兵”充任領(lǐng)工、監(jiān)理和技術(shù)指導(dǎo)。所以，今天當(dāng)?shù)厝艘舶雅R海古城叫做“江南長(zhǎng)城”。

今天，當(dāng)我再次站立在桃渚古城上時(shí)，又怎能不憶起這座城墻對(duì)祖先一生的境遇產(chǎn)生多么大的影響。

1582，集結(jié)詩(shī)文的夢(mèng)里故鄉(xiāng)

“霜角一聲草木哀，云頭對(duì)起石門(mén)開(kāi)。朔風(fēng)虜酒不成醉，落葉歸鴉無(wú)數(shù)來(lái)。但使玄戈銷(xiāo)殺氣，未妨白發(fā)老邊才。勒名峰上吾誰(shuí)與，故李將軍舞劍臺(tái)。”

這是今天還珍藏在臨海圖書(shū)館里的《戚繼光詩(shī)文全集》中一首戚繼光晚年—1582年所作的七律。詩(shī)中，除了一身膽氣的慷慨陳詞、對(duì)早年在臨海桃渚抗倭那些光輝歲月“玄戈銷(xiāo)殺氣”的追憶之外，還能讓人隱隱約約感覺(jué)到，一員失勢(shì)老將的落寞之情。

萬(wàn)歷十年(1582)，注定是不平常的一年。

這年六月，被譽(yù)為股肱忠臣、對(duì)戚繼光欣賞有加的內(nèi)閣首輔張居正在北京去世。隨即而來(lái)的政治壓力直接影響了戚繼光在軍隊(duì)中的影響力——他最引以為左膀右臂的弟弟戚繼美遠(yuǎn)調(diào)貴州。

也許是感到自己政治軍事生命的即將完結(jié)，當(dāng)年九月，戚繼光把歷年所寫(xiě)詩(shī)文集成五卷，即《橫槊稿》三卷、《愚愚稿》二卷，合稱(chēng)《止止堂集》。此集在戚繼光生前即已刊行，此后又有多種刻本，流傳至今。除了總結(jié)平生的境遇之外，還有不少作品是年輕時(shí)抗倭過(guò)程中所作。

比如《望闕臺(tái)》：“十年驅(qū)馳海色寒，孤臣于此望宸鑾。繁霜盡是心頭血，灑向千峰秋葉丹?！弊掷镄虚g，盡是一位年輕軍官的恢弘大志。

我想，彼時(shí)總結(jié)自己一生作品的戚繼光，一定想起了他在桃渚抗倭及揚(yáng)名的歲月，以及對(duì)遠(yuǎn)在江南的那片夢(mèng)里故鄉(xiāng)的追憶之情。

可惜，一直到去世，他都沒(méi)有再踏上過(guò)這片曾經(jīng)浴血奮戰(zhàn)過(guò)的土地。

三年后的1585年，58歲的戚繼光上疏請(qǐng)求引退回鄉(xiāng)。又三年后，他在山東蓬萊老家完成了修立家廟、延師教子等一系列福蔭子孫的事情之后壽終正寢。

不知這位縱橫捭闔一生的大帥彌留之際，是否想到了臨海，想到了影響他一生的桃渚古城？

也許桃渚戚繼光紀(jì)念館門(mén)口那幅“懷古何須游赤壁，御侮誰(shuí)不憶桃渚”的門(mén)聯(lián)，已經(jīng)給出了答案。□

（本文攝影：吳勇韜）

Ancient Fortress Commemorates Hero

By Qi Xiaozong

Taozhu may look anachronistic among the scene of urban sprawl and highways in Linhai, a well-developed city in southeast of Zhejiang, a coastal province in eastern China. Located about 60 kilometers from Linhai, it is a defense fortress built in the Ming Dynasty (1368-1644). The fortress is all about Qi Jiguang (1528-1588) and the history of defeating Japanese pirates which had been harassing China for centuries.

I paid a visit to Taozhu recently for two reasons: the year 2012 marks the 450th anniversary when General Qi Jiguang was transferred to Fujian, a province in the south, to continue fighting the Japanese pirates after he had wiped out Japanese pirates in Zhejiang; I am a 23rd-generation descendant of General Qi. I came to the small city to review the last three decades of the national hero.

The Year 1562

The year marked the turning point in Chinas century-long campaign against Japanese pirates. Based in Taizhou, Zhejiang, General Qi launched nine campaigns against Japanese pirates and all the campaigns were victorious. Historians agree that from that year on, China turned to offense in fighting Japanese pirates.

It is said that Taozhu is the most suitable place in the south of China to let ones imagination go wild. I agree. Historical imagination here means a long story of vicissitudes to recall and feel after all the dust settled a long time ago.

To my disappointment, Taozhu Town looks quite small in sharp contrast -to all the great ancient fortresses I had seen in movies and televisions. On second thought, I realized that it was indeed an impregnable defense structure in the era of cold weapons. Built in 1443, the fortress measures 1,366 meters around with mountains on the north side. The three gates in the east, west and south still stand. Walking around inside the walled town, I soon became aware of the irregular lengths of the streets. Local people explained that all the streets come together to take the form of the Chinese character 龍 (dragon). The streets are crisscrossed and staggered so that enemy soldiers, once inside the fortress, would not be able to drive through easily and defenders would have a good chance to fight a house-to-house battle.

The streets and lanes keep the ancient shape and style. It is said that there are some descendants of General Qi still living in the fortress town. I did not investigate but tended to believe it was true. I was warmly invited into a house and given a cup of tea after someone learned that I was surnamed Qi. The host explained that the surname would open all the doors in Taozhu.

The ancient wall has become a playground for local children. It would be hard to imagine how Japanese pirates had been a scourge to coastal provinces in China. The pirates invaded. Sometimes a troupe might be 20,000 soldiers. They looted and killed; they grabbed local people and sold them as slaves to Japan. The 28-year-old Qi Jiguang arrived in Taozhu in 1555. He headed a force of 3,000 soldiers. He scored one victory after another. Before he left Zhejiang in 1562, the army was expanded to 10,000.

The Year 1572

After successful military campaigns in Zhejiang, Qi drove the pirates into the sea in Fujian and Guangdong. In 1568, the 40-year-old general was summoned back to Beijing, the capital of the Ming Dynasty, to strengthen the defense against Tartar invaders in the north. In the following years, he rebuilt the Great Wall, now generally known as the Great Wall of the Ming.

The sections of the Great Wall of the Ming around Beijing can still be seen today. It is said that they were built on the blueprint prepared by Qi Jiguang. Actually, Qi Jiguang had built a miniature great wall in Linhai, which still stands today. He supervised the Great Wall project in the north. He appointed 3,000 soldiers who had taken part in building the great wall in Linhai to be supervisors and technicians in the project in the north.

In 1572, a big part of the Great Wall near Beijing was completed at half of the estimated cost. Qi Jiguang deployed soldiers at 1,017 watchtowers along the extending defense work. Qi Jiguang wrote a full list of code signals for relaying military information accurately and fast in case of emergency and all the defense soldiers learned the code signals by heart. Also in 1572, he finished writing Records of Troop Training, a book on military strategies and tactics.

The Year 1582

It was an eventful year. Zhang Juzheng (1525-1582), the prime minister of Emperor Wanli, passed away. The death produced serious political consequences. Qi Jiguang was one of the people Zhang had trusted and supported for years. After the prime ministers death, Qi Jiguangs younger brother Qi Jimei, who had been with him all these years, was exiled to a government post as far as Guizhou in southwestern China. Qi Jiguang himself was demoted to a military position in Guangdong in southern China. In September 1582, he went through all of his manuscripts written over years and edited them into five volumes. Before he passed away, the collected works had been published. The collection was reprinted many times in the past. His works can still be read today. The collection includes essays about his life and career and many were written in military campaigns against Japanese pirates.

In 1585, the 58-year-old Qi Jiguang submitted a plea for retirement. In his last years, he had the family temple erected and appointed a teacher for his children. He died in poverty in Penglai, Shandong Province.

He never came back to Taozhu, but Taozhu remembers him and his victories. The city now has a Qi Jiguang Memorial.□