絕壁上的郭亮村

習(xí)慣了青山綠水獨(dú)釣太湖的隱士風(fēng)格，看慣了亭臺(tái)樓榭羽扇綸巾的豪邁氣度，乍一看到這陡巖峭壁，腦海中浮現(xiàn)的就是——不可能。這不是人類能久居的天籟之地，更不是文人雅士談笑風(fēng)生的佳所，但看這山勢(shì)險(xiǎn)絕，蠻石突兀，惟用原始荒古才能形容。

的確，沒(méi)有車水馬龍的興盛，沒(méi)有人來(lái)熙攘的繁鬧，沒(méi)有燈紅酒綠的迷離，也沒(méi)有云仙霧饒的忘我……這里真是一處被上帝遺忘的旮旯。

但，它就是存在的。地處山西與河南兩省交界處的密林山中，海拔高達(dá)1752米，這就是絕壁上的村莊——郭亮村。千百年來(lái)，它緘默不語(yǔ)，安詳?shù)卦趹已虑捅谏显荒懿徽f(shuō)是一個(gè)奇跡。

抵達(dá)郭亮村，必須穿行太行大峽谷。峽谷絕壁的巖石呈肉紅色，聳直陡峭，高有200米，像快斧整劈過(guò)一樣，格調(diào)雄渾，令人生畏。要攀上順天梯登上崖頂是件很不容易的事情。天梯是由塊塊不整齊的巖石壘起，或直接在90度角的巖壁上鑿出來(lái)的石坑組成。走在云梯上，頭頂密布的烏云使峽谷更顯磅礴大氣，絕壁縫隙填滿雙眼，險(xiǎn)峰深壑足以震懾靈魂。仰望所見(jiàn)只是石梯底面，俯瞰峽谷但聽(tīng)水浪翻滾，濤聲回蕩，此時(shí)，上下兩難，煞有騎虎難下、舉步維艱之感。

屏住呼吸，手扶天梯，冷汗連連，此時(shí)若東張西望，定會(huì)讓浩瀚的山體震懾得頭暈?zāi)垦?，掉入深不?jiàn)底的深谷粉身碎骨吧。很難想象，千百年前，古人是如何打開(kāi)通往云層的天梯的?若沒(méi)有過(guò)人的膽識(shí)和強(qiáng)健的四肢，單是望一眼這蒼茫山體，也會(huì)膽戰(zhàn)心驚吧。

當(dāng)黑色濃云吞噬了陽(yáng)光，壓向大峽谷時(shí)，巖壁掩卻肉紅身軀，以陰暗來(lái)進(jìn)一步襯托云的晦暗。云和山，就這樣渾然一體，即便你目眥欲裂，也難將這全景盡收眼底，反而被凝重的氣勢(shì)震撼收服。

這條絕壁路，曾是大山通往中原惟一的古道，因極其險(xiǎn)要，也成就了其與世隔絕的現(xiàn)狀。直到上世紀(jì)70年代，山民們打通了郭亮洞，才打開(kāi)了村子與外界交流的窗口，隨之便逐步廢棄了這條幾百年來(lái)的“熱線”。

抵達(dá)郭亮村，它的樸實(shí)隨處可見(jiàn):石磨、石碾、石巷、石桌、石凳、石床、石階、石房、石壩、石路、石碗、石筷、石橋、石斧、石鋤#8943;#8943;讓人完全溶浸在石頭的奇妙懷抱之中。

據(jù)說(shuō)，郭亮村建于西漢末年。當(dāng)時(shí)王莽建立“新”王朝，這期間爆發(fā)了大規(guī)模的農(nóng)民起義，其中以農(nóng)民領(lǐng)袖郭亮最為著名，一舉建立農(nóng)民政權(quán)。郭亮欲借太行絕壁峽谷與敵交戰(zhàn)，不幸兵敗山西，后人為紀(jì)念這位農(nóng)民英雄，將他當(dāng)年戰(zhàn)斗過(guò)的大本營(yíng)譽(yù)為郭亮村，延傳至今。

后來(lái)，在明末清初，有申姓家族為躲避戰(zhàn)亂苦役，躲進(jìn)太行山并隱居于郭亮村，世代在此繁衍生息?，F(xiàn)在的郭亮村有80多戶人家，約300多人，大都為申氏。

石頭是郭亮村的象征，是郭亮村的靈魂。堅(jiān)如磐石的郭亮村村民世代恪守祖輩先訓(xùn)，駐守這方天外之村，雖逢夏季常受山洪、滑坡的侵襲，但天災(zāi)之后，村民們又癡情地壘起“新家”。

現(xiàn)在，郭亮村已經(jīng)告別與世隔絕的邊緣村莊，成為現(xiàn)代人競(jìng)相參觀體驗(yàn)原始生命的地方。這要?dú)w功于郭亮洞的開(kāi)通。

郭亮洞是村民們歷經(jīng)5年、在絕壁中硬生生一錘一錘鑿出來(lái)的鏤空石洞，高4米，寬6米，全長(zhǎng)1300米，可容兩輛大客車交錯(cuò)通過(guò)。這條絕壁長(zhǎng)廊，被日本裕田影視公司驚為“世界第九大奇跡”。

絕壁長(zhǎng)廊郭亮洞，似蛟龍蜿蜒盤(pán)旋在萬(wàn)丈石壁巖邊，洞內(nèi)忽明忽暗，洞邊依著山形鑿出形狀不規(guī)則的大小山窗。這是修路之初用于向外傾倒石沙的，現(xiàn)在倒成了窗形景色絕不重樣的美景之窗。從窗口向外望去，入眼的要么是紅色山崖，要么是黃綠蔥郁的樹(shù)枝樹(shù)葉，要么便是一道掛在山崖上的白色瀑布。壯闊的太行美景，百窗百景百看不厭。

洞外瀑布，如一瀉而下的玉壺美酒，聞之，耳目清爽;飲之，甘冽沁甜。洞下水潭碧綠誘人，牛羊悠然自得徜徉于奇石叢林之間，輕輕捧一掌晶瑩潭水，水中定有明麗的笑容。

穿過(guò)絕壁長(zhǎng)廊就是崖上人家。這是坐落在海拔1279米高的崖邊上的農(nóng)家院落。明末清初建立之初，就地取材，木柱石墻，渾厚古樸，院落朝東，院外3米就是懸崖，挨著崖邊生長(zhǎng)著一排粗壯的黃榆樹(shù)，像忠誠(chéng)守護(hù)的戰(zhàn)士。這是現(xiàn)存最好的太行古民居，因地勢(shì)險(xiǎn)要，故稱崖上人家。

郭亮洞不遠(yuǎn)處還有著名的萬(wàn)仙山喊泉。顧名思義，喊泉真如其名，站在泉下，抬頭大喊，驟然間瀑布從天而降，飄染全身。喊聲過(guò)后，又恢復(fù)往日的寂靜。

世人絕不會(huì)想到，翻越重山萬(wàn)嶺，在如此其貌不揚(yáng)的石體間，竟會(huì)藏著這樣一處世外桃源，不是肥土沃壤，卻樸素真實(shí);沒(méi)有奢華迷醉，卻燈火溫馨。這是在混沌忙碌的繁華世界找尋不到的單純角落，這里是可以讓靈魂自由的地方。

沉寂千年的郭亮村，在現(xiàn)代人叩訪中，敞開(kāi)了寧?kù)o。在這里靜靜地待上半月，凌晨聽(tīng)雄雞報(bào)曉，午時(shí)聞雌雞下蛋，晚間聽(tīng)山雨瀝瀝，閑時(shí)喝上二兩老白干，大口吮吞著大青椒，捻著來(lái)回晃動(dòng)的油燈，想象屬于這里的故事，這真是一種原始古樸的雅致。

Guoliang: A Village on the Precipitous Cliff

Guoliang—the village on the precipitous cliff， is situated in the dense forest of the border area between Shanxi and Henan provinces at an elevation of 1，752 meters. Over the past thousand years， this village has been firmly rooted on the cliff， forming a marvelous wonder.

To get to Guoliang Village， you must cross the Taihang Grand Canyon. With flesh red rocks， the awesome cliffs along the Canyon are roughly 200 meters high and look as if cut by a sharp axe.

In the past， to get to the top of the cliff， people had to climb along a narrow path on the cliff named Heaven’s Ladder， which is comprised of irregular stones and pits dug into the horizontal cliff. Climbing on Heaven’s Ladder， one will feel that the clouds overhead make the canyon magnificent. Looking up， all that one can see is the bottom of Heaven’s Ladder. At the mid-point of the path， one will feel himself in a dilemma， whether to go ahead or retreat.

The path on the cliff used to be the only road linking Guolaing Village on the cliff and the plain area on the other side of the cliff. As a result， Guoliang Village had been isolated from the outside world until Guoliang Cave was dug in the 1970s. Subsequently， Heaven’s Ladder that had been used for several hundreds of years gradually fell out of use.

Guoliang Cave was manually dug by the Guoliang villagers bit by bit in five years. The cave， four meters high and six meters wide， can accommodate the driving of two passenger buses side by side. Guoliang Cave meanders along the precipitous cliff like a dragon. Along the side of the cave， some irregular windows were dug， which were used to empty the debris when the cave was being dug. Nowadays， these windows have become the outlet for tourists to view the amazing scenes outside the cave. Looking out from the windows， one will see the flesh red cliffs， the lush trees， and the white waterfall hung on the cliff. The marvelous wonders always make the tourists reluctant to leave.

Arriving in Guoliang Village， one will see the stone grinders， stone mills， stone alley， stone tables， stone stools， stone beds， stone steps， stone houses， stone dams， stone roads， stone bowls， stone chopsticks， stone bridges， stone axes， and stone hoes， the world of a people immersed in stone.

Nowadays， Guoliang Village has more than 80 households with a population of roughly 300 people， most of whom are named Shen.

Crossing the Guoliang Cave along the cliff， one can get to a courtyard situated on the cliff at an elevation of 1，279 meters. Nearby the courtyard on the cliff there grow a row of sturdy elm trees， like loyal guards protecting the courtyard. This courtyard is the best ancient residence still in existence on the Taiyang Mountain range.