時尚“皺”

Ｍｏｎｉｃａ?。拢澹颍睿幔颍洌澹?/p>

04月 Beauty（美人志） 編者按：每一年寒冬還未消退時，時尚界的潮人們就已經乘著清新的春風為大家?guī)盱`動的美麗，在世界幾大時尚中心上演一場場美輪美奐的時裝秀，這也預示著今年的流行風向標，抓住了它們，你也就抓住了今年的時尚脈搏。無論如何，就讓我們隨著一次次流動的盛會來打造屬于自己的美麗。那么，今年到底流行什么呢？

Some say spring is an optimistic time of hope and new beginnings... And this season?s fashion reflects this mood in a wonderful array of bright colours and textures of clothing that seem to have been designed with that ?feelgood touch? in mind.

有人說春天是一個充滿希望和新的開始的歡樂季節(jié)……這個季節(jié)的時尚潮流也通過一系列明艷動人的色彩以及讓人心情愉悅的靚麗時裝絕佳地體現(xiàn)了這種積極的心態(tài)。

If you are one of those that like fashion but can?t afford the professional hand of a stylist, ruffles or frills are the trend to pay attention to and, if your savings are still above the red line in these tough times, invest in without much of a thought. If you like feminine, romantic fashion, then ruffles are surely bringing this back into the spotlight and one of the reasons is that they are very easy to wear - delicate enough for daytime, but can be ultra glam at night as well, used all over garments, in many different ways. There are tiered ruffled skirts, peplum waists with multiple layers of ruffles, over the bust ruffles and garments made entirely with ruffles. There are also waterfall ruffles, tailored ruffles, tiny, huge, ruffles around collars, on the edge of a sleeve.

如果你是潮人一族但無法負擔專業(yè)品牌款式設計的巨額花費，那么褶皺就是你要留心的潮流；如果你的積蓄在這些艱難的日子里處于紅色警戒線之上，那么你可以毫不猶豫地一擲千金；如果你喜歡溫柔、浪漫的時尚，那么毫無疑問，褶皺將這種潮流帶回聚光燈下，其中一個原因就是因為它的百搭——日裝足夠精致，晚裝又足夠冶艷，可以用于多種服飾，多種不同的設計。有褶皺裙、多層褶皺式短裙、及胸的褶皺花邊和滿是褶皺的上衣。還有瀑布紋褶皺花邊、特意剪裁的褶皺花邊、大小各異的褶邊領口和褶邊袖。

If you didn?t have time to take a look at every fashion show, well, I did it for you. Here is how some designers displayed a trend from the 16th century:

如果你沒有時間去欣賞每一個時裝秀，那么，我來為你效勞吧。讓我們來看看一些服裝設計師如何重現(xiàn)16世紀的風情：

New York Fashion Week

紐約時裝周

Along with Paris, London and Milan, New York Fashion week is one of the ?big four? fashion events and in the Spring/Summer 2009 collections ruffles were a clear trend. The American designer, Zac Posen delivered a collection which was both very traditional and comfortable. The color palette was a soothing pastel array amongst classic tailoring and the flair came in the form of ruffles – romantic and modern.

紐約時裝周和巴黎、倫敦以及米蘭一起并列為四大時尚盛事，2009年的春夏時裝展上，褶皺是明顯的潮流。美國設計師扎克?珀森的設計集傳統(tǒng)和舒適于一身。這些服裝展上的色彩就像是古典設計中悅目柔和的色調，并以浪漫、現(xiàn)代的褶皺花邊完美體現(xiàn)出來。

Chic is the word to define Philip Lim?s collection. The American-Chinese designer?s creations have a Spanish influence – ruffles, ruffles and more ruffles showed up on dresses, tops, skirts, trenches and shoes. I mean, not shoes, but Louboutin 4? heels ruffled shoes.時髦是用于定義菲利林服裝的特有詞匯。這個美籍華裔的設計師的設計受到西班牙風格的影響——褶皺、褶皺，還有連衣裙、上衣、裙子、風衣和鞋子上都是褶皺。我的意思是，不是普通的鞋子，而是魯布托褶皺高跟鞋。

Simplicity was the choice made by Chris Han – another American-Chinese designer, who presented a beautiful collection for all kinds of women and all kinds of situations. Structured and tailored trousers and jackets were balanced with lightweight ruffled blouses and skirts making a romantic grown-up look.

簡約是另一位美籍華裔設計師韓?克里斯的風格——為每一類女性以及每一種場合設計了美麗的服裝。制作剪裁有致的褲子和夾克與帶小花邊的襯衫以及短裙相得益彰，營造出一種浪漫的成熟韻味。

Mixing Old World with the New, Australian Aurelio Costarella brought to the catwalk what he calls ?Dallia? look – an asymmetrical blouse or dress with ruffles at the collar. The ruffled blouse with a black cigarette pant gave the perfect balance between the 16th and 21th ceturies.融合舊世界和新世界的特點，澳大利亞設計師Aurelio Costarella把稱為Dallia——有褶皺領口的不對稱襯衫或者長裙的設計風格帶到伸展臺。而褶皺襯衫與黑色吸煙褲將16世紀和21世紀的風情完美結合。

For Venezuelan Carolina Herrera Spring is all about the ruffles. No floral, no girlie, no walk in the park. They were designed for cocktail hour and beyond. Ruffles and petals adorned nearly every look – night gown with multiple ruffle layering, ruffled dresses in shades of red, black, blue. She also plays with contrast, pairing a slim cigarette pants with a ruffle-hem jacket.

對于委內瑞拉的卡羅琳娜?海萊娜來說，春季就屬于褶皺。這些時裝不僅僅用來裝飾，不僅僅用來欣賞，不僅僅用于花園漫步。它們是為雞尾酒會或者更多這種晚宴而設計。褶皺和花邊幾乎無所不能——多層褶皺睡裙，各種紅、黑色或者藍色的褶皺長裙。她還注重對比，將修身的吸煙褲配上褶皺邊的夾克。

Paris Fashion Week

巴黎時裝周

House of many of the world?s top designers including Coco Chanel, Christian Dior, Louis Vuitton, Lanvin, Chloé, Yves Saint-Laurent and shoe designer Christian Louboutin, Paris Fashion Week attracts fashion buyers and journalists from around the globe. And there, ruffles were anchoring many collections. At Karl Lagerfeld?s collection for Chanel ruffles came in form of flamenco western skirts long and black.

擁有多位世界頂尖設計師像可可?香奈兒、克里斯汀?迪奧、路易?威登、朗雯、珂洛艾伊、伊夫?圣羅蘭以及皮鞋設計師克里斯提?魯布托，巴黎時裝周吸引了眾多來自世界各地的時尚買家和記者的眼球。在那里，褶皺也是很多時裝的主打特色。卡爾?拉格菲爾德的香奈兒系列褶皺時裝采用了修長和黑色的弗拉門戈式西部短裙。

John Galliano?s ruffled skirts were the opposite - flippy floral and mini paired with a silk floral blouse and high heels in a total romantic and sexy look.約翰?加利亞諾的褶皺裙正好相反——帶花邊的蓬松迷你短裙配上絲制褶皺花邊襯衫和高跟鞋，顯得浪漫而性感。

Famous for his not-so-ready-to-wear collections, Christian Lacroix?s spring collection is more commercial and, yes, there were ruffles on sleeves but they also emigrated to the back of dress creating such a sublime sense of movement and grace.

以“非成衣”服裝而聞名，克里斯汀?拉克魯瓦的春季時裝更商業(yè)化，每一個袖口都有褶皺，他們還在長裙背后也添加了褶皺設計，顯得異常的高雅。

At Givenchy show the ruffle is a clear trend this Spring/Summer. They adorned nearly every dress in shades of red, black, and blue, all combined for a classic look and a classic feel. 紀梵希也在春夏季時裝秀上展示了絕對的褶皺潮流。他們幾乎在衣服的每一種紅黑藍上都添加了這種設計，無論從視覺還是感官上都極具古典氣息。

London Fashion Week

倫敦時裝周

Considered the most creative fashion week, LFW is famous for featuring some of the world?s most avant-garde designers. And ruffles also dominated the catwalk at London Fashion Week. Michael Herz made a collection for Aquascutum almost entirely with white and blues. He created interest with ruffles in all white looks - a crisp white ruffled dress over a white-ruffled loose pant, and in all blue look – a dress with frills on the front down. Cobalt blue on one shouldered dress (another big trend) with ruffles made quite an impact.

被尊為最有創(chuàng)意的時裝周，倫敦時裝周以擁有一批世界先鋒設計師而聞名于世。而褶皺也占領了倫敦時裝周的伸展臺。邁克爾?赫茲為雅格獅丹設計的服裝幾乎全是白色和藍色。他在白色服裝上都設計了有趣的小褶皺——清爽的白色褶皺長裙搭配白色寬松褶皺花邊褲，而前面有花邊的長裙則是全藍。單肩（另一種潮流走向）的鉆石藍褶皺長裙也相當具有沖擊力。

Speaking of impact, Christopher Kane, the Scottish designer, presented the newest form for ruffles: petals, leaves or circles in cascading tiers, which evoke exotic creatures. There was, for example, a dress in snakeskin with ruffles from neck to toe.

說到沖擊力，蘇格蘭設計師克里斯多弗?凱恩展示了最新褶皺設計款式：花瓣、葉子或者是瀑布紋，異域風情呼之欲出，還有像從脖子到腳趾的蛇皮褶皺長裙。

Canadian designer Erdem, whose dresses are adored by Claudia Schiffer, Chloe Sevigny, Kirsten Dunst and Keira Knightley, delivered a collection with romantic Victorian-inspired dresses adorned with multiple ruffles on the sleeves or cascading down the back of a trapeze dress。

加拿大設計師艾爾丹姆備受克勞迪婭?希弗、科洛?塞維尼、克爾斯滕?鄧斯特以及凱拉?奈特利等明星的追捧，她賦予了時裝一種浪漫的維多利亞情懷，多層褶皺的袖口和滿背瀑布褶皺的梯形裙就是最好的證明。

Alice Temperley?s collection was also very feminine with silk dresses adorned with delicate, cascading ruffles. Inspired by French seaside scenes of the 1930s, she created a sweet and romantic collection with some masculine touches, like a pantaloon or a tailored suit, providing a contrast to her silk ruffled blouses and dresses. Very chic.

愛麗絲?坦布雷的時裝是用精致的瀑布褶皺絲制長裙，顯得很有女人味。受到上個世紀三十年代法國海灘場景的影響，她設計了一系列甜美、浪漫又有幾分英氣的服裝，像褲子和女士西裝，與絲制褶皺襯衫和長裙形成鮮明對比。非常俏麗。

How to Wear

如何裝扮

Ruffles are great for any occasion. The rule to wear them is the same for animal print – one item at a time. Do not wear a ruffled shirt with a ruffled skirt, a ruffled handbag or shoes. Remember less is always more. Well-placed ruffles can create a structured volume wherever you want or need. No hips? Try tiers of tiny ruffles. But be carefull: a ruffle diagonally across the middle, as on many dresses, will just hide your waist, making you look squat. Small bust? Wear ruffles at your chest to serve as a camouflage. Problems solved!

褶皺適用于任何場合。穿著褶皺服飾的規(guī)則和動物圖案一樣——一次一種。不要穿一件褶皺襯衫的時候再穿一條褶皺花邊裙，拿一個褶皺花邊包或者穿一雙這種鞋子。記住越少效果越好。有致的褶皺可以使你在想要或者是需要的任何地方產生存在感。臀部太??？那么嘗試一下小褶皺。但是要注意：像很多長裙那樣從中間穿過的褶皺會隱藏你的纖腰，讓你看起來顯得矮胖。平胸？那么穿上胸部帶有褶皺的衣服吧，會是一種很好的掩飾方法。問題解決了！

For the curvy, ruffles can be a little bit tricky, as they accentuate and enlarge wherever they adorn. When wearing ruffles make sure you tone down with a contrasting clean, slim piece to ensure you don?t look like a tiered wedding cake. Pop a pair of skinny jeans with a ruffled blouse to balance the ensemble. You can also throw a long cardigan over ruffled dress to slim down the look. A romantic ruffled blouse paired with a pencil skirt or tailored pants can also work.

而說到曲線，褶皺就有一點棘手，因為它們都是突出和擴大它們要裝飾的地方。穿帶褶皺的衣服要確保搭配一件簡潔、修身的衣服來協(xié)調，不要看起來像是一個包裝好的蛋糕。用緊身牛仔褲配褶皺襯衫來平衡整體效果。你也可以將長毛衣配上褶皺裙，這樣顯得苗條。一件浪漫的褶皺襯衫配上一條鉛筆裙或者是修身褲效果也不錯。

Ruffles Accessories

褶皺飾品

Aware that most of woman has an obsession for shoes and bags and a passion for ruffles some designers decided to put them together. And the result was on the foot and hand of many models on the catwalk this spring. The heel master, Christian Louboutin designed a shoe for 3.1 Philip Lim adorned with a vertical cascade of ruffles. Emma Cook ruffled everything from shoulder to sole and so did Vivienne Westwood. Miu Miu brings the ruffle back down to earth in very pretty ballerina flats.

意識到大多數(shù)女士們對鞋子、包包的著迷，但同時又對褶皺飾物有著極大的熱情，一些設計師們決定要將它們搭配在一起。在今年春季伸展臺上一些模特的腳上和手上我們就看見了成果。高跟鞋設計大師克里斯提?魯布托為菲利林3.1設計了直線瀑布褶皺花邊鞋。艾瑪?庫克所有時裝從肩膀到腳趾每一處都飾有褶皺花邊，薇薇恩?韋斯特伍德也是如此。繆繆用異常美麗的芭蕾舞平底鞋將褶皺又帶回世界。

For those who have a ?thing? for handbags, there are a few options. Valentino Allure ruffled bag, Prada Ruffled Clutch, Yves Saint-Laurent, Christian Dior.

對那些對包包有情有獨鐘的人來說也有一些選擇。華倫天奴褶皺包、普拉達褶皺手提包、還有伊夫圣羅蘭以及克里斯汀?迪奧。

But remember – do not match shoes and bag or you will be ?overruffled.?

但是記著——不要同時穿褶皺鞋子或者包包，否則你就會過度“褶皺”。

Ruffles – the Origin

褶皺起源

According to some History of Fashion books, ruffles first appeared during the Elizabethan Period (sixteenth century) in England. Both men and women wore ruffled collars to show status, rather as men today wear ties. It was an example of the ?hierarchical? element in dress.

根據(jù)一些關于時尚的歷史書籍，褶皺最初出現(xiàn)在英國的伊麗莎白時代（16世紀）。男人和女人都穿褶皺領口的衣服來表示身份，就像今天的男人都打領帶一樣。這是衣著等級的一個例子。

The first ruffles? comeback happened in spring 1968 – there were ruffles everywhere in the US, worn with sweeping midi-skirts, coats and dark tights during the winter or paler tights for late spring. Suits for spring were fewer than usual, the prevailing costume being a coat-with-skirt-with-ruffled-blouse; the blouse was long-sleeved and white, in cotton or organdy. Since then ruffles have been around for quite a long time. Some people say that the second comeback started with Yves Saint-Laurent, in 2006. Some believe that they have never gone completely ?out?. The difference is that now they are absolutely ?in? and, as a classic, will probably be like this for ages. After all, ruffles have survived revolutions and wars. As a survivor they are ready to go through an economic crisis, aren?t they?

褶皺時尚的第一次回歸是在1968年春季——美國到處都能看見褶皺的蹤跡，在冬季穿著及地的中長裙、上衣以及黑色緊身褲，或者在晚春時穿淺色緊身褲。春季的衣服比平常的要少，最流行的就是上衣加裙子加上帶皺褶花邊的褲子；襯衫是白色長袖，棉布或者奧甘迪（一種細薄的棉織品）。從那時起褶皺花邊就流行了很久。有人說褶皺的第二次回歸是在2006年由伊夫?圣?洛朗發(fā)起的。有些人則認為褶皺從未完全退出過時尚舞臺。區(qū)別在于現(xiàn)在褶皺又作為一種經典真正流行，而且會持續(xù)很久。畢竟，褶皺在革命和戰(zhàn)爭中幸存下來。作為一個幸存者，它們已經做好了準備度過經濟危機，不是嗎？

Notes

1. tailored ruffles

在文中指的是“ruffles specially made by a tailor to a particular size”，也就是“由某位裁縫剪裁特定尺寸的褶皺”。

2. on the edge of

意為“瀕于、幾乎、在邊緣”。

例句：The soldiers are encamping on the edge of the forest.

士兵們在森林邊扎營。

3. The color palette

在文中指的是“the colours used (in the show or whatever)”，即“這些服裝展上的色彩”。

4. trenches

在文中是指“trench coat”，也就是我們通常所說的風衣。

5. No floral, no girlie, no walk in the park.

這句話的意思相當于“they're not just decorative, not just to look pretty, not just for strolling around”，引申到后面的句子就是“but they're to wear for serious evening parties（為一些隆重的晚宴而穿）”，即“這些時裝不僅僅用來裝飾，不僅僅用來欣賞，不僅僅用于花園漫步”。

6. in shades of

在這里該詞組和“different kinds of”意思相近，即“多種類型、種類”。

7. not-so-ready-to-wear

“ready-to-wear”指的是“現(xiàn)成的，做好的；成衣”?！皀ot-so-ready-to-wear”借用了“ready-to-wear”的時尚含義，是一個雙關語。在文中是指這些衣服確實很好看，獨家設計，但是你必須在別人的幫助下（如拉鏈、紐扣）才能穿上。

8. emigrate to

意為“移民他國、遷居”，在文中引申為“轉移、更換為”。

例句：Acting on your recommend ation，I have decided to emigrate to Australia.

依據(jù)你的建議，我已經定移民澳大利亞。

9. slim down

意為“消瘦、使身材苗條；下降、消減”。